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Voies dans Never Never

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Affichant les 32 voies total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
Hide and Seek Wall
Joes Climb (Project)

above chain belay on ledge. This climb is more to the left on wall it is very obvious crack . Finish at ledge at chains.

Trad
19 Tinker Bells Big Brother

Hard to get to start as a little obscure and a short climb involved , but climb up at left end of this area and gingerly make your way to centre of wall . Traverse left and up for 6m past 1 ring bolt then up for 3m to another ring then up and right using big overlap.Finish at chains.

FFA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012

FA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012

Trad mixte 20m, 2
Sneak it In (Project)

Start as per Tinker Bells BB but only traverse left for a few metres and then follow rings straight up. Project Marc Bailey

TradProjet 17m
18 Lets Zouk

Start as per TBBB but at ring bolt go straight up and right to another ring then straight up to gain crack and then to chains

FFA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012

FA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012

Trad mixte 15m, 1
Lost Boys Hideout Wall
17 Bush Wacker

Approx 10m left of The Battle of Evermore. Up blocky broken corner crack to chains at 20m. Then up wide crack to a tricky finish to chains at Lost World Wall. All natural.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2004

Trad 35m
20 Battle of Evermore

Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt & Peter Higgs, 2005

Trad mixte 70m, 6
21 Angels of Babylon

Start as for Battle of Evermore but at 4m veer right up over bulge with BR then follow arête to chains. BR and cams.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey

Trad mixte 25m, 1
22 Acts Of Sublimation

Open book corner approx 8m left of The Antichrist. Up open book corner to roof, traverse right 3m past 2 BR then straight up wall to ring bolts. 5 BR & small to medium cams

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2005

Trad mixte 27m, 5
‘Project' - Drop Zone

FA: Bruce Jones & Danny Rosewood, 1997

TradProjet 45m
The Hulk - 'Closed Project'

Thin crack 3m left of the start of The Antichrist. Originally perceived by Terry Bernutt but has since been handed on to Marc Bailey. Closed project.

FA: Terry Bernutt

TradProjet 30m
22 The Antichrist

Up obvious corner crack to small roof at 5m, exit roof left. Straight up to roof with 2 FH then up wall to Lost Boys Hideout. Cams, 5 BR, 2 FH, DBB.

FA: Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Trad mixte 30m, 7
18 Juicy

Start as for Antichrist but exit small roof at 5m on the right side. Up obvious corner and crack to Lost Boys Hideout. Natural pro, belay at chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs & Terry Bernutt, 2002

Trad 30m
18 AID:A0 Prince Planet

Start at crack 4m right of Antichrist. Up crack to ledge then left up to BR then up onto second ledge and traverse right 5m to top of boulder. Step up onto wall and up to roof then up crux to ledge. Traverse right and up over roof to wall above, aid off last BR to top out at Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. BR, cams, nuts. Watch the rope drag.

FA: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Artif 35m
24 Astro Boy

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2003

Trad 35m
20 Boulder S

Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones

FA: Marc Bailey & Bruce Jones

Trad 25m
Dead Mans Cave Wall
23 Sky's The Limit

Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2004

Trad mixte 47m, 12
19 Hydra

The obvious left hand corner crack at the start of Dead mans cave. Climb crack past 3 BR's to anchors on ledge.

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2002

FFA: 2002

Trad mixte 30m, 3
24 Ponic

The real extension to Hydra, pack your big boy pants. From anchors of hydra head up and left towards arête. Before you get there head back right via horizontal break and then straight up via bolt to DBB.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2014

Trad mixte 1
19 Hydra's Head

Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural.

FA: Joe Truban & Marc Bailey, 2003

Trad 17m
20 The Phantom

2m right of Hydra. Stay roughly 2 to 3 m right of corner all the way, when at cave level traverse 3m right to chains at Captain America .8 BRs & cams

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2005

Sportive 25m, 8
20 Captain America

Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

FA: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Trad mixte 25m, 4
21 The Shadow

Start as for Captain America but climb on the right of the 3rd & 4th BRs. Then straight up wall past 2 BRs to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

FA: Peter Higgs, Brice Milne & Terry Bernutt, 2003

Trad mixte 25m, 6
21 Slip it in if it Feels Good (project)

The things you do when you are bored and it's raining and you want to climb. A metre to the left of Tinker Bell. Finish at ledge as per Tinker Bell and The Shadow. Project Marc Bailey

Trad mixteProjet 25m, 1
17 Tinker Bell

Start up crack 1m right of Captain America to ledge and climb up following the large flake right and back left to the ledge above reach up and clip the BR before hauling up over the roof on big jugs to DBB in Dead Man's Cave. Bring natural pro 1 BR.

FA: Peter Higgs & Terry Bernutt, 2002

Trad mixte 30m, 1
19 Tinker Bell Direct

As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb.

FA: Peter Higgs

Trad 25m
19 Angelina Jollies Jublies

Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR.

FA: Brice Milne & Marc Bailey, 2003

Trad 25m
24 Captain Fantastic

Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21

FA: Leon Gray & Toby Holmes

TradProjet 2
24 Strong Like Bull

Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.

Équip.: Peter Higgs

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2011

Sportive 20m
18 Mighty Mouse

Finger crack 8m right of The Shadow. Up crack then veer right to another crack then up wall to chains. BRs, cams & nuts

FA: Terry Bernutt

Trad 25m
25 Feed The Rat

Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.

Équip.: Josef Truban

FFA: Alan Ezzy & Leon Gray, 2011

Trad 50m, 4
New Wall
25 The Specialist (project)
SportiveProjet 15m, 6
23 Robot Zombie Pigs

Punchy steep start past big move and up techy face. Awesome.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2012

Sportive 13m, 5

Affichant les 32 voies total.

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