Aide

Saison

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Description

Right of The Leaning Wall (Just right of the climb One Inch Punch, a somewhat detached section of the cliff can be found where the angle relaxes somewhat and a 2 large trees grow very near the base of the cliff. Top out onto the ledge for each of the climbs to find the chains in the first section of cliff. As the cliff extends around the corner the climbs are primarily trad topping out onto the very top. Further around the corner a handful of routes have chains to lower off.

Éthique hérité de Devil's Peak

Devil's Peak features many boulders near or on the main hike where hundreds of people walk daily. Please be vigilant with brushing away chalk and tick marks when you finish climbing on a boulder. If you see a boulder with tick marks or chalk please take a minute or 2 to clean it off. Respecting the boulders will help maintain access for all climbers.

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Climb onto the Bulbous Butt Plug, get your hands in the horizontal (3rd bolt) then traverse right all the way across the wall for a Corporal Cum-Shot finish. Robert Brooks CLOSED PROJECT 2016.

FFA: CLOSED PROJECT

Crank through a tough start then head left at the left-curving slopey arête up the white/orange wall for a cruxey finish. Top out to chains. Robert Brooks CLOSED PROJECT 2016.

FFA: CLOSED PROJECT

Stick clip the first bolt right of The Barren then start 2m right of the bolt and boulder up and left on small holds and micro footers to gain the second bolt. Follow the line of bolts to the lip where the holds seem to run out in a balancey finish. Top out to chains. CLOSED PROJECT 2016.

FFA: CLOSED PROJECT

Some distance from its namesake! Boulder a direct start or stroll in from the right using the first 2 bolts of Lord Labia. At the horizontal step left into the bolt line of Sergeant Smegma and finish. Originally completed solely on trad gear.

FFA: Stuart Williams, Mark Witham & Richard Drew, 1988

Start on the LHS of the crack (The Marquis) and follow the bolts onto the slab. A lazy start leads to smaller holds on an almost overhang. Top out to chains.

FFA: Raife Geheren & Robert Brooks, Oct. 2016

The wide crack then up onto the ledge, bring some #4 cams. Use the chains of G.L.A.W. to lower.

FFA: Robert Brooks & Nick Chappell, Oct. 2016

Start between the 2 large trees on the RHS of the large crack (The Marquis). Follow good holds to the second bolt then step right onto the slab for a technical and spicy finish. 6 bolts + chains.

FFA: Nick Chappell, Oct. 2016

Start right of G.L.A.W. between the same 2 large trees. Gain the large flakey feature then grapple your way up right onto the slab. Mind the tree. 6 bolts + chains.

FFA: Robert Brooks & Raife Geheren, Oct. 2016

Right of Admiral Anus, start between the tree on the left and the small wall on the right. Technical slab moves lead to relaxed finish with a touch of trickery. 6 bolts + chains.

FFA: Robert Brooks, Oct. 2016

This was begun with something better in mind. Begin just right of the afore mentioned callitris and angle right up the wall to join Echidna's diagonal. Finish with this.

FFA: Paul Francis & Mark Witham, 1988

Start 2 metres left of Echidna. Climb the face with the pocket in it. A #1.5 friend protects the move. Belay at the ledge at 3/4 height.

FFA: Matt Adams, Andrew Rattray & Stuart Williams, 1990

The vertical crack beside the next large tree leads past a ledge on the left at 8 metre to a ragged diagonal flake.

FFA: Nick Neagle & Anne Veitch, 1988

Quite pleasant. The crack 6 metres right of Echidna leading to a smooth, slabby headwall.

FFA: Nick Neagle, Ron Parker, Mark Witham & Paul Francis, 1988

The traditional crack toward the right end of wall.

FFA: Luke Adams & Paul Gray, 1986

A thin crack leads up from the right to a delicate move onto the arête. Continue to the big ledge. Belay here and descend the chimney on the left.

FFA: Nick Neagle & Simon Clay, 1988

Left of Sooky is a left to right leaning diagonal, follow this to the roof, traverse left a few meters under the roof to better holds, then over the bulge to a hands free rest. Continue up the short wall past a bolt to the chains to finish.

FFA: Caleb Steer & Robert Brooks, Oct. 2016

Left of Spewing is a crack leading to a rounded arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to move left onto a protruding nose. Move up and clip bolt. Move up onto the face and traverse right below a small rooflet with good cams. At the end of the traverse reach up to clip one of Spewing’s bolts then follow the rounded arête to the chains. Anchor as for Spewing: Double Bolt Anchor with some weathered aluminium fixies.

FFA: Mark Witham, Shaw Callan & Greg Burke, 2003

The slab right of Sooky La La passing 2 bolts. At end of slab move up into roof then traverse right to the very nose of the roof then up the arête following bolts to double bolt belay. Mark Witham CLOSED PROJECT 2016

FFA: CLOSED PROJECT

The proud widish crack right of Spewing is of surprisingly good value. Once through the overhanging section a really nice little corner is attained.

FFA: Nick Neagle & Ron Parker, 1988

The face and arête right of I.G.T.B.F.

FA: Mark Witham, Shaw Callan & Greg Burke, 2003

Up the vertical crack about 5 metres left of Mal's Sex Farm.

FFA: Andrew Rattray & Mark Witham, 1990

The diagonal line just left of the arête, which joins Somebody Shave Me at the final head wall.

FFA: Mark Witham & Andrew Rattray, 1990

The final arete of the cliff. Matt Adams Solo.

FFA: Matt Adams, 1990

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