Ascensions dans Bare Rock comme Pink point

Repeat

Slippery lil sucker. Took many tries till I had the fitness for it! Just used wires on the top section.

an awesome endurance monster, it's just relentless, not as hard as atomic vampire

An incredible fight on an incredible route. Absolute must do power endurance classic. Maybe 20 or burns over 8ish sessions

Wow! A sustained, complex face climb with classic moves and rock, to a no-hands rest, before a gnarly V6 boulder finale through the top roof. The upper slab is not to be underestimated!

Though I could do the moves of the boulder, I didn't feel that I could put both parts of the climb together in the 2 days I had to try it, so instead I traversed over to the finale of Velvet Morning immediately before the no-hands rest at the top roof, and finished up that (hence not claiming the full grade). Sure, it's the piker's McDougall, but it makes the climb even more sustained, and just as classic as most of the other routes here IMO! Hopefully next time I'll send it properly.

Full disclosure: I also started with the first 3 bolts pre-clipped.

At the start I use a compression/arete-slapping/heel-hooking sequence rather than the crimp boulder. Was heaps of fun figuring it out.

2nd shot. First clean repeat, I think. Mega exposed climbing through huge blocky roofs on immaculate rock. I giggled my way up this on the send (singing Lovecats, for some reason).

First 27! The extension is worth doing!

Climbed it with smile on my face the whole way. What a journey. Best thing I've climbed in a long while.

The sting in the tail is rad!

the best and hardest 26 i’ve done. it’s been a long time since i’ve emptied both the physical and emotional tank so thoroughly on a burn and i’m very glad it worked out because i was not prepared for another lap. stratospherically hyper classic! five goes total.

What most bluies face routes aspire to be.

Joyful. Third day on and four hours sleep is the money. Four warm up/beta laps and five red point goes including two lovely punts off the top because i’m an idiot.

Had to project the start then came down and sent, onsighting from the 3rd bolt up ... Slightly spoiled by the nails bouldery start, but don't let that discourage you as they rest of the slab is amaaaaazing! Very classy slabbing.

Toughhhhest 25 ever! Crimpy fiend but a lot of fun. Good moves the whole way that I didn't find straightforward at first.

yeew

Clean repeat. This has become a well-loved trade route now, and it's well worth the hype. I never get tired of this quality slab, and it's surprisingly intense upper half.

2nd shot. Stuck the crux (climbing it totally chalkless and wrong) on the onsight, then had a foot-slip soon after . Was fine 2nd shot. Okay climbing, very cruxy, not as good as Tomorrow's Dream P3.

Done and Dusted! First CLEAN repeat of this route! 4th Redpoint shot, 13th lap in total (incl. my Onsight attempt, another ground-up attempt 6 months later, and 7 Top Rope Solo laps when the route was partially wet after the flood). 5th day on, and slightly too hot for ideal conditions... but I went into Warrior Mode in the upper half, and fought and whimpered and screamed through the moves I'd never linked past. I'm bloody glad I didn't blow the final gr23 moves to the roof, or I would've had the biggest whip of my life!

Finally! 2nd shot today (in the dark... any darker and it would be unclimbable without a headlamp). PSYCHED! 25th Redpoint Shot total (with 8 other laps to equip/inspect/warmup over the duration). What an epic journey for the tick: struggling with conditions (it was all down to 1 hour of good conditions each day as the sun went down, during which I attacked this), a severe knee injury, 50 other Projects, and the tough approach to the Boneyard (40min walk up a hill + 12m Jumaar + Ledge Life). When it went, it was still a good fight as I struggled to see in the dark. By the end I was only using 3 pieces of trad gear in the crack, and running it out the whole way.

2nd shot. First Repeat! Got rather shutdown by the very tricky and unlikely complex stemming through impossibly steep stepped-roofs, and spent about an hour figuring it out. This is definately only gr24 for the true redpoint, though the techniques and complexity of moves might take some (including me) a bit of effort to resolve. With the beta its gr24, and infinitely repeatable. Outrageous position, old-school, insecure bridging, and thoroughly enjoyable (in a moderately masochistic way).

Ticked 2nd shot. Pitch 5 (gr26 pitch) only. Likely the 1st clean repeat of this pitch in all the years since it was established. 1 poor foot placement away from the true ground-up, unchalked onsight!!!! Damn! Belayed from orange crush ledge, so I had 6m of horizontal rope out before starting this climb. Well bolted, but the bolts themselves are appalling. Interesting climbing up surprising steepness, with moderate bad rock (which could be cleaned up with some hammer love). As with the rest of this multi, this wasnt as bad as its reputation might suggest.

ALMOST a retro-flash (thought I certainly didn't remember much of it... mostly because there's so much TOO it!). Some epic feats of endurance, and up-climbing and down-climbing piecing together sequences, and I carried a near Terminal Pump into the final tricky corner sequence, but kept it together for the tick. Amazing rock. Old-school, varied, hard-to-read climbing. Outrageous position. Mind blowing.

Finally. 2nd shot today (almost ticked it as a warmup, falling off the last hard move), and it was cruisy and controlled. 4th redpoint shot. 9th lap total (the initial 5 laps I hadnt worked out how to clip the post-crux draw and every lap ended there as I tried different things). Not classic, but fun, and very much not my style, so good to work on something that I struggle with.

2nd shot. Very sustained and bouldery until you gain the top slab. Even on the tick I found the opening 5 bolts quite intense and tricky. Extremely fingers and thin. I had to skip the 4th bolt as I couldn't clip it on link. Worth a lap if you get caught in the sun on Bare Rock, as its in the shade until 2pm.

2nd shot today. 4th total. Wanted to do this placing all gear, but after 1st shot I couldnt be bothered with the epic of stripping all of it. On send I placed the 3 bits of pro I used in the hard terrain and left the rest in situ. All gear easy to place except crux wire. Stoked to tick this, even in less than perfect trad style. So overhanging and brutal, with an awesome powerful steep fingerlocking crux. Damn solid at the grade.

Finally! 4th shot today. 6th shot this trip. 18th shot over the past year. The most shots ive ever given a climb by a lot, and despite the grade this might be my hardest tick to date (and almost certainly gr27 in reality). Demanding, demoralising, destroying and rewarding. Every shot today I was getting through the crux and struggling above (especially getting into the offwidth). Finally, right on dark it all came together. Soooo psyched!

2nd shot. The first 6m of this is a V3 boulder with some of the ugliest climbing I've done at Bare Rock (dirty -I spent 15min scrubbing the start boulder after falling off on onsight-, friable, and awkwardly powerful), but from the 4th bolt up this is brilliant technical slabbing, getting consistantly harder until the final gr23 slab crux at 32m just before the anchors. If you can hack/endure the crappy start, there is joy to find here.

Awesome! 3rd shot today. 6th shot this trip. 7th total. 1st shot today I fell off a move down low, then linked to the top. 2nd shot I fell off the same move down low, and this time decided to dial it into submission. 3rd shot I sent it packing at 8pm (having been climbing since 9am) for the hard fought but well-executed tick. This climb is a lot of effort, but damn is it worth it. Sorry Jenga, Skank-tail and Wendy are gone, but Barney is still around.

2nd shot. On the Onsight I ended up on the wrong side of the arete to clip the 2nd bolt and couldn't get back on route, thus blowing it. The 2nd shot went okay, but was still hard work. Super-sustained knifeblade arete climbing which doesnt give it up without a battle of balance and barn-dooring. Crux at 2nd bolt, with an out-there sting in the tail as you climb thinness straddling the arete for the last 4m or so. Very sharp thin crimps for the right hand, and arete slapping for the left.

2nd shot today, 3rd shot total. Mmm... black-rock slabbing in the full sun. I really battled the heat on this. 1st shot today I fell off in the same place as yesterday, not remembering anything (and my chalk washed off from rain overnight). 2nd shot today, feeling worn-out and heat-struck, I kept it together and crushed. Another Bare Rock classic.

2nd Ascent. 2nd shot. Didn't quite manage the flash with flash pump surprising me on a matched fingernail edge, but went to the top with only 1 fall. 2nd shot felt awesome. This climb was made for someone like me. 30m of non-stop, slightly steep, super-thin technicality on micro-edges, sidepulls and underclings. No real pronounced crux, but trickiness that you could easily fall off on the last move to the anchor (3 x slopey gastons through a steep bulge). Beautiful black and orange rock.

2nd shot today, 4th shot total. My 1st attempt today placing the draws was a dogs breakfast as I got epically flash pumped, too hot in the full summer sun and stressed with the expectation of a quick send. The 2nd shot was executed perfectly, and was just fun, steep, pumpy big moves between big slopes. I chose not to place the last draw before the anchors for some encouragement not to fall. Did another lap at the end of the day for some photos with Simon Carter.

2nd shot in the rain. Thought for sure I had the flash (placing draws), but I fell off at the 2nd last bolt, the last of the long series of hard moves when I totally misread the sequence and sandbagged myself onto the wrong jugs. On the 2nd shot it went well, and was simply amazing fun. Sustained, thin, technical face climbing with lots of varied, tricky moves and no true rest stances. Less overtly cruxy than Heaven Can Wait but much more intense. Immacculate rock.

3 Shots over two days. I have not had to work this hard for a route in a long time. Super sustained with lots of super techy climbing. One of the best lines i've climbed in Australia.

Took 3 shots to get this amazing line. Sustained from start to finish. Awesome varied face climbing.