Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Docks Docks Craglets | |||||
18 | ★ Salty Dog
Right trending splitter on the landward side of the boulder. single carrot bolt belay FA: Toby Story, Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, 2002 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Dogs Backside
easier angled crack on the seaward side of the boulder. single carrot bolt belay. either simil-rap of tie end of the rope to a ground anchor and rap off the other side FA: Oscar Purtell, Nick Hanson & Clare Munnings, Déc 2020 FA: 12 Déc 2020 | 10m | |||
19 | ★★★ Danny's Roof
Daunting steep and wide corner and undercling roof. Wires and Cams with doubles to #3, single #4 and #5, optional #6 FA: Danny Hazell & Gerard Tarr, 12 Déc 2019 | 18m | |||
13 | Oranges for Lunch
A quest for the perfect splitter hand crack on the hill became a grovel fest up a chimney to a thread belay, to discover that the 2nd pitch splitter crack was just a moss-covered root growing on the cliff. FA: Beth Wadley & Patrick Munnings, Déc 2020 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Can't Stop the Grovel
Offwidth splitter to cave, then short man-eating diagonal squeeze left. The offwidth can be protected (and climbed!) reasonably using thin secondary cracks, but the squeeze will be a little spicy for leaders too big to fit inside. Wires and Cams from .2 to #4. Optional 5 and 6 FA: Danny Hazell & Gerard Tarr, 12 Déc 2019 | 15m | |||
M4 | Suspension Trauma
Mega line through the middle of the cave | 2 | |||
★★ Acrobatics at the Abattoir
Open roof offwidth project right of Suspension Trauma cave | 12m, 1 | ||||
23 | If You Give a Moose a Muffin
FA: Simon Bischoff & Tierney O’sullivan, Déc 2014 | 15m | |||
21 | Toblerone
Bolted slab on the left face and arete of the Toblerone. Access via bounty, DBB. | 18m | |||
19 | Bounty
Bolted slab climb (Access Pitch for Toblerone) belay off tree at top | 15m | |||
V3 | ★★ Salmon of Knowledge
Start in the hole on the landward side of the bridge. Hold the furthest left jug on the face and traverse right via jugs. downclimb and lower under the bridge reaching for jugs on the other side. Traverse under the bridge right along slopper rail. Finish with a hard move into right trending hand crack (crack gloves advised) and top out. a sustained and challenging problem with great moves, requiring good body tension. | 10m | |||
V2 | ★★ Tommy's V2
on the same feature as Salmon of knowledge. Sit start holding the positive rail on the seaward side of the boulder. Under the roof and directly up jugs on the landward side to top-out FA: Tommy Krauss | 2m | |||
The Docks The Pinnacle | |||||
16 | Gravel Road
Uphill on the northern face of the pinnacle is a featured seam with some shrubbery. Follow this to scoop at the top. DBB on the other side of the pinnacle. Tie ground anchor and rap off the backside of the pinnacle. | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Dykes at the Docks
2x Carrots, follows quartz dyke 2m left of Gravel Road and traverses right to a second dyke. | 35m, 2 | |||
21 | Dropping Bombs
Climb slightly overhanging featured gravel seam on southeastern arrete of the pinnacle to DBB of JUGS FA: Patrick Munnings & Oscar Purtell, Déc 2020 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ J.U.G.S
Climb the overhanging intermittent cracks on the left side of the back wall of Dykes at the Docks, via 5 Fixed Hangers to a DBB. FA: Nick Hancock, 2004 | 20m, 5 | |||
The Docks Main Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Big Wide Dyke
10 M left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB. FA: John Fisher | 25m | |||
20 | ★ BOOB
3x Carrots | 25m, 3 | |||
19 | Best Line On Cliff
Right trending diagonal crack in the middle of the main face. Begin behind a small pinnacle at the base of the main cliff. P1, (17) stellar crack climbing on good rock with awesome gear to belay on a large ledge. P2 in the left corner of the ledge, climb horizontal seams and face flakes to the slab. follow slab to the top of the cliff FFA: Patrick Munnings & Sabrina Lim FA: M Mulcairn & R Pease | 45m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Parrot Fish and Polenta
| 60m | |||
13 | True Grit
| 40m, 3 | |||
12 | Nude Woman Tries Miracle Shampoo
| 60m, 2 | |||
18 | Gravel Pit
| 60m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Games People Play
| 45m | |||
16 | Watch the Road, Sailor
| ||||
The Docks Split Rock / TITS | |||||
25 | ★★ TITS
Follow 4 U bolts directly up the steep orange face of Split Rock to a single bolt at the top FA: Nick Hancock, 2002 | 15m, 4 | |||
The Docks Red Wall | |||||
21 | A Bolt From the Blue
1x Carrot | 45m, 1 | |||
18 | High Stepping Stone
| 45m | |||
19 | Morrison of Peking
| 45m | |||
The Docks Paradise Prow | |||||
24 | Paradise Prow
climb unprotected NW face to arete and then follow diagonal seam until a traverse to horn on arete can be made and sling the horn as the first available protection. | 18m | |||
24 | ★★ Jackjumper
The direct route up south face and arete of pinnacle to DBB FA: Patrick Munnings | 18m, 6 | |||
Main Cliff Skye Gully | |||||
15 | Brown and Yellow Streak
| 90m, 3 | |||
13 | Shoulder Arms
| 68m, 3 | |||
14 | Road Gang
| 23m | |||
17 | Grand Stand
| 18m | |||
14 | Southern Stand
| 24m | |||
14 | Measley Mumps
| 12m | |||
15 | Consumptive Cancer
| 15m | |||
15 | Chatternooga Choo-Choo
| 18m | |||
15 | Birthday Boy
| 18m | |||
11 | Thirty Three
| 18m | |||
13 | Avoid the Arete
| 16m | |||
20 | ★★ Lying Eyes
| ||||
18 | Chock a Block
| 40m | |||
14 | Men at Work
| 30m | |||
14 | Democratic Dictator
| 20m | |||
12 | Sea Mist
| 20m | |||
14 | Little Sir Echo
| 35m | |||
17 | In The Groove
| 30m | |||
18 | Groovy Baby
| 20m | |||
20 | Fingertips
| 28m | |||
18 | Buffalo Bill
| 30m | |||
15 | Happy Chappy
| 20m | |||
16 | Ross Crescent
| 15m | |||
14 | Flaky Pastry
| 15m | |||
18 | Windansea
| 27m | |||
23 | Hello Sailor
| 28m | |||
13 | First Blood
| 15m | |||
19 | Skye Pilot
| 23m | |||
21 | Glorified Labourers
| 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Blue Skies Coming
The Right facing corners on the left side of Skye Descent gully. Start up easy corners end up on furthest left one. Bit of a committing slab finish. FA: Maher & Strazewski, 1987 | 30m | |||
18 | Camberwell Junction
| 27m | |||
14 | Beat around the Bush
| 45m | |||
12 | Double Move With Pike
| 25m | |||
17 | Swell Corner
| 20m | |||
16 | Skye
| 79m, 3 | |||
24 | Golden Presents
| 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Pain Toy
| 35m | |||
25 | Twitching Hard
From the hanging belay climb up. 5 bolts. Can also access via Pain Toy (traverse to the hanging belay). Maybe 26 🙃 FA: Jake Bresnehan | 5 | |||
20 | ★ Flight of the Moonbirds
| 40m, 2, 6 | |||
17 | Beagle in the Skye With Diamonds
| 33m | |||
Main Cliff Beagle Buttress | |||||
16 | Rock and Roll
| 78m | |||
25 | Shake, Rattle and Roll
| 75m | |||
18 | Magic Moments
| 80m, 3 | |||
17 | Absolute Beginners
| 60m, 2 | |||
17 | Jamie's Jamb
| 55m, 3 | |||
15 | Ramblers Route
| 60m, 2 | |||
18 | Frustrated Ambitions
| 20m | |||
18 | ★ Willy The Wimp
Start in middle of the face and climb up overlaps to corner crack. Up onto slab with small nuts and boldly step right over slab finishing through scoop to DBB. | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ That Sinking Feelng
Start at the lower tier and climb through positive flakes and top out up the slab | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Beagle Rock
| 100m, 6 | |||
Main Cliff Pyramid Slabs | |||||
17 | ★ Holding Back the Years
| 23m | |||
18 | Poem Lovely as a Tree
| 30m | |||
17 | ★★ Golden Streak
| 120m | |||
19 | Fighting Back the Years
| 93m, 4 | |||
14 | Yellow Streak
| 60m | |||
15 | Topaz
| 120m, 4 | |||
17 | Laid Back Days
| 20m | |||
12 | Beginners
| 20m | |||
Main Cliff Skull Area | |||||
17 | ★★ Highbrow
Takes the right arete and face of the skull before traversing left and turning onto the slab for a runout finish. Descent via rap off sheaoak in a gully. | 55m, 2 | |||
18 | Crossbones
| 40m | |||
19 | Haggis
| 32m | |||
21 | Trigger
| 85m | |||
25 | Phantom
| 80m | |||
25 | ★★★ Lion Heart
Line through the middle of the cave and up through overlap. | 50m | |||
26 | Diana Palmer
| 25m, 1 | |||
29 | ★★★ Truffle Shuffle
The past horizontal roof crack through outrageous terrain. Turns the lip and continues up the headwall. | 30m | |||
21 | ★★ Apes in Space
| 20m | |||
22 | ★ Squibs Slab
| 20m | |||
22 | Diamond Traverse
| 55m |