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Main Cliff

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 4
  • Ascensions : 25

Accès: Glow Worm Tunnel Road roadwork closures until April 2024

Glow Worm Tunnel Road closed at junction with Old Coach Road due to Nat Parks road and tunnel work. Due to reopen April 2024. Check Nat Parks website for updates. https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/walking-tracks/glow-worm-tunnel-walking-track/local-alerts

Détails de l'alerte et commentaires

A ajouté Il y a 6 mois - A édité il y a 9 semaines
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Description

Refer to Rain Cave approach

Éthique hérité de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Tags

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Left side of major vertical orange wall. Up seam crack and wall above Supplement the six carrot bolts with #9 Rock and small cams. Lower-off anchor on right side of small cave.

FA: John Smoothy & Fiona Lumsden, 1995

Ringbolts up centre of huge orange wall. Apparently it is one giant 60+m pitch

FA: Simon Atkins

Airy face and corner climbing up right side of massive orange wall. All bolts need hangers (bring 15). Starts on pedestal on left edge of Bell's Line cave.

  1. 25m (22) Left and up fall (8 bolts) to bolt belay.

  2. 25m (22) Up superbly positioned corner to top then right onto easy slab. (13 bolts + 2 hangers for the belay)

  3. 4m Easily to top of pagoda

FA: John Smoothy & Giles Bradbury, 1995

An outstanding, naturally protected line up the obvious weakness through right side of the cave. The first half was originally climbed by Greg Child (and co) at grade 23 to the small stance just before the angle begins to steepen dramatically. From this point things get pumpy and you will need to draw on your bouldering nous. After the business is over be prepared for a longer-than-expected head wall above.

FFA: lee cossey, 2007

10m right of Andy and Caroline. Easily up line of juggy scoops then runout face above to lower-offs. First ascent & name unknown.

The right facing corner 10m to the left of Sacred Ground.

  1. 35m (17). Corner and chimney to ledge with blocks. Poorly protected but good rock.

  2. 30m. An easy but spectacular canyon delving into the bowels of the hill before scrambling easily up to ground level to finish.

FA: Lucas Trihey, Bruce Cameron (alt.) & Will Moon, 1996

The left leaning thin crack 2m left of Sacred Ground. Originally climbed as three pitches.

  1. 15m (10). Crack to steep section.

  2. 20m (22). Head left along the flake crack past ferns to SHB (cams, wires) on left at base of vertical finger crack.

  3. 35m (21). Follow the finger crack until it peters out and then head straight up headwall (BR) to the top. 1BB (quality unknown...). Then up and left 4m to another 1BB.

FA: Lucas Trihey & Chris Jackson, 1995

Wide crack mostly with steep mid-section to head wall wide crack. Usually done in 2 pitches at least but could be done as one. Belay in middle is possible off a variety of gear from wires to mediums cams.

Large rack advisable. Also tape if you haven't been to Buffalo recently. Double ropes best if wanting to rap off.

FA: Lucas Trihey, 1995

Bolted line right of Sacred Ground done as one epic long pitch. Slab up the bowl to start (scary to first bolt) then launch up juggy wall, trend left across overhung "cave" and up face above.

FA: Simon Atkins

1 18
2 24

Two pitch sport route up the wall 10m right of Sacred Ground. Starts low down on the grey slab. The pitches could be linked with long runners.

  1. 32m (18) Fun jugging up slab and orange wall to comfy ledge and anchors.

  2. 32m (24) Steep and exciting climbing up the wall above. Finishes up major flake crack feature with huge runout to lower-off anchors. A #0.5 Camalot would make this runout sane.

FA: karen allen, jules anderson, chris coghill & sam berry

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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Lun 29 Mai
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