Ascensions dans Grampians comme Hang dog

A bit sketchy with no great placements around the crux.

I think it could’ve gone with another burn but we had to head off. Insanely fun climbing. Genuinely one of my favourite crags at the Grampians - some nice powerful routes but also good variety when you’re not feeling it. Bit of choss but that’s ok. Thank you bolters!

Good times - took a few falls, broke some gear fear. Crux beta felt quite desperate for the grade, involving a burly move off a finger lock into sloping layaways to gain the jug - maybe there's a better way...

Classic one mover and what a move.

This was sport!

rested below the crux because i couldn't make the psyche necessary to high clip

One move wonder but just couldn’t stick it

So sick. I think this one might go

Humbled

A proper taipan-esque route with hard moves, grooves and plenty of air

Some radical sequences, taipan does the blueys climbing better than the blueys.

WHOA!

got past the 4th bolt first try and then dropped it (F**k!) then attempted it another 3 times and couldnt figure out how i managed to get past the 3rd bolt. Ill come back to it.

Would have liked to have gotten the send but got washed out before I could get back on

Eugh. Humbling. Climb isn’t that bad I’m just a silly sausage. Jugs into a one move wonder. Got too excited because of how close the onsight was so didn’t take consecutive attempts seriously. Then when I switched on my fingers were gone. Needed to drill the crux move after the first burn and take proper rests between attempts. Lesson learnt. Sick route though.

Headed up this thing with big Sam, unfortunately 1.5 hours on the first belay and 2 hours on the second belay had me freezing cold and 0 psych to try the upper pitch. Hopefully next time

Fell going for the last crimp before the juggy horizontal break 2m from the top. I waxed lyrical about how good Clean Sweep is but this could be even better? For the first 2/3rds it’s slightly easier and much better protected than its compatriot to the left, but whereas Clean Sweep eases off in the top 15m Dance of Life just keeps going. I’m not sure the crimp moves are necessarily that much harder than the rest of the climb, but compared to CS it’s just so sustained for a full 40 odd metres…

Didn’t take enough long slings so rope drag was pretty awful in the top 10m or so - lesson learned there. Best bit about dropping an onsight like this right at the top is having the excuse to go do it again.

Great holds always a couple of moves away, making clipping sometimes difficult. Cool and varied route