Affichant les 56 voies total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Graham's Creek Flame Wall | |||||
29 | Tantalus Released
Start 20m left of 'The Thin Red Line' near the left edge of Flame Wall. Dyno sideways to gain the hanging groove. Continue up the bulging face to a diabolical crux up high. Beware the pumpy finish. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008 | 20m, 7 | |||
Graham's Creek Smallgoods Area | |||||
23 | ★ Smokin’ Guns
Climb the sustained wall past five FH's to rings. FA: Graham Trafford, 2008 | 14m, 5 | |||
24 | Is Don Is Good
Start 5m right of Smokin' Guns. Up cruxy wall past five FHs to rings. FA: Graham Trafford, 2008 | 17m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Salami Surprise
25m down and right of 'Is Don Is Good' is a blank arête capped by a jutting prow. Scramble up a short gully to the left to gain a small ledge. Pull onto the wall and make a steep traverse rightwards past two FHs. Continue straight up the wall passing four more FHs to rings. FA: Graham Trafford, 2008 | 18m, 6 | |||
Slander Gully | |||||
23 | ★ The JR Line
Awesome climbing up Arapilesian rock. Start left of Golden Gaytime passing a loose (but locked in) chockstone to a stance. Power onwards through a long sequence of sidepulls and hero holds. FA: Poppy | 19m, 6 | |||
Open Project
Direct start to GMA that adds another crux or two and straightens the line out | |||||
Curiosity Crag | |||||
18 | ★ The Extension Lead
Exposure plus, and linked with The Generator Routes this makes an awesome long pitch. Start at halfway ledge two meters right of Bug Powder Dust. Follow the 4FHs up the arête, moving to the right-hand side at the 3rd FH. (25m rap) (DRB anchor as of March 2024 - ignore fixed hanger and sheath, to be removed soon) FA: Rob Booth & Ross Timms | 15m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ The Generator Route
Start: 6 meters right of 'Bug Powder Dust'. Three bolts to ledge and DDB. FA: Rob Booth Steve Chapman, 2003 | 12m, 3 | |||
24 | The Alternator
A bouldery link-up of The Generator Route * 22 and The Extension Lead * 18. Climb The Generator Route and continue straight up the orange bulge past 2 FHs to join The Extension Lead at its (now) second FH on the arête. 8 FHs in total. (DRB anchor added as of March 2024 - ignore the fixed hanger and sheath, to be removed soon) FA: Michael O’Reilly & Steve Chapman, Oct. 2015 | 23m, 8 | |||
21 | Whispering Bush
This mini link-up route is now a sports route Start as for Screaming Trees. First part of Screaming Trees, past 3 FH to horizontal break, traverse left clipping first FH of The Alternator to the anchors on The Generator Route. | 14m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ History's Actors
Starts at Night Owl Theatre. A bit of jamming to gain the prow which takes you to the horizontal, then up the classy orange face above. From the 5th bolt, trend left to gain access to hollow jugs, before moving back right. FA: Kent Paterson | 28m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Careful With That Axe, Liam
Sustained face climbing Start 5 meters right of Night Owl Theatre. Directly up the wall past FHs and rings, no trad gear required. FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2003 | 30m | |||
24 | ★★ Cat Power
A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. Endurance climbing on great rock. Start as for Careful With That Axe Liam. A single rope will suffice if you take a few 60cm draws. Climb to the 4th FH, then traverse right 5m past FH to join Curiosity. Continue up past 2 more FHs to break. Back left for 2m then finish up past 3FHs as for Curiosity. FA: Michael O’Reilly & Steve Chapman | 36m, 10 | |||
25 | ★★★ Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat
Sustained face climbing on a variety of interesting holds. The route's status as the area's classic - and a bit of a soft tick - may change some time in the future should some of the crucial holds get ripped off it! Follow the line of bolts 5m right of 'Careful With That Axe, Liam', taking a jink to the right near the top. Just one clip-and-go in the anchor - take care. FA: Steve Chapman & Brian Gray, 2003 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Ab Slab
Follow line of rings. Start: Right of 'Separation Anxiety'. FA: Brendon & Chris Abernethy, 2004 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★ Tarzan's Swing
Steep and popular Arete FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2003 | 14m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Tarzan Swing Densei Link up
If you still have some juice left at the end of Tarzans Swing, clip the anchor with a long sling and monkey right past a FH on unlikely jugs to the final moves and then anchor of Densei FFA: adam demmert & James Scott-Bohanna, 2013 | 18m, 8 | |||
24 | ★★ Densei
Right side of scoops, 6 RB's to DRB lower off. Start: 4m right of Tarzan's Swing. FA: Ramon Francis, Philip Bogenschütz & Brendon Abernethy, 2003 FA: Ramon Francis, 2003 | 15m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ The Organiser
Excellent Nowra style power endurance climbing. Up left side of scoops. 5 RB's to DRB lower off. Start: 15m R of 'Tarzan' Swing. FA: Brendon Abernethy, 2003 | 12m, 5 | |||
23 R | ★★ Chimney Sweep
A fun novelty route but with a sting in the tail. Start in the chasm at the base of Grease Nipples wall. Stick clip high first FH (or preclip by bridging up chimney). Warning: A tight belay is essential for this climb, ESPECIALLY at the last bolt, do not give a soft catch. Falls are generally safe, but be wary of the obvious risk. It's safer and easier (grade 21) if you skip the top moves and simply step off the climb! to access the upper ledge. FA: Goshen Watts, 12 Fév 2023 | 20m, 8 | |||
Ruined Castle | |||||
24 | ★ Fruit Punch
Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into 'Forbidden Fruits' at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 17m, 6 | |||
20 | ★ Forbidden Fruits
Sustained reachy pockets up wall just right of 'Fruit Punch'. A fantastic warm-up for the upper tier routes. Five FHs and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 17m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ The First Crusade Pitch 1
The easiest sport route in the Grampians? This is the sport climbers approach pitch to the upper tiers of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off bolt anchor at back of ledge. Start: Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson | 20m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Spent
There is no lower off on this climb. Either top out and build a trad anchor or lower off a single bolt/leaver biner Équip.: Neil Montieth & Jono Schmidt, 2012 | 12m, 5 | |||
19 | Slow Roasted Piggy
Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs. FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2006 | 20m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ The First Crusade Pitch 2
Steep thugging then easy wall. 7 FHs and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 20m, 7 | |||
26 | Growling Dog
| 14m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Game of Thrones
Start Up Blood letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge. FFA: adam demmert & ross taylor, 2012 | 15m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Blood Letter
Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 17m, 8 | |||
21 | ★ Alexius
Very reachy crux. Starts at the right edge of the second tier at juggy rib. Up this for 3m then swing left onto hanging wall and jug up onto face. Easily up slab to finish as for 'Blood Letter'. Inconsistent. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 16m, 5 | |||
24 | ★ War Horse
Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs. FA: Neil Monteith & Mark Gould, 2006 | 19m, 7 | |||
26 | ★★ Siege Machine
Straight up the guts of the steepest tallest bit of the crag with some very creative moves in the middle. Slopers, jugs and then final killer headwall. Use a sling on the fifth bolt to avoid the rope cutting plate. Start: Starts 4m left of The First Crusade. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 20m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Jerusalem
Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs. FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2006 | 17m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ The First Crusade Pitch 3
Superb orange scoop with tricky roof start - now made much harder after a key hold broke down low (prob grade 25+ now). Starts directly above rap rings. 7 bolts. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 17m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★★ Christendom
Brilliant. A easier variant start to The First Crusade that eliminates the brutal roof. Start up heucos on the left edge of the right wall then trend left to join into TFC at its 4th bolt. FA: Neil Monteith | 17m | |||
25 | ★★ Emphysema
Probably hard 24 but we couldn't give 'another' route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First Crusade Pitch 3 and 'Catapult'. Start as for 'Christendom' but instead of traversing off left keeping cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff. FA: Neil Monteith & Tim Storey, 2007 | 15m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Catapult
A wild dyno! Slopey orange goodness from start to finish up the giant heucos. 5 FHs. Starts 2m left of Nicea. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Nicaea
Nice orange bulges - but a shabby first few metres. 4 FH's. Start: Starts on the far right of the wall at end of fixed rope. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Retaliation
Furthest right of the bolted lines. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2012 | 15m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ The First Crusade Pitch 4
Short but sweet face pitch right on the top of the crag! 3 FHs and single bolt lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006 | 8m, 3 | |||
Number 1 Creek Valley Tortoise Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Bad Boys
Demanding route up overhanging wall right of "The Boys That Were Naughty". Boulder to or stick-clip first bolt. One of the bolts is actually a peg; probably should be replaced with a bolt. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1994 | 15m, 6 | |||
Gilham's Crags - Northside Fermé Goat Crag | |||||
28 | ★★ Dethink to Survive
Starts 4m right of Here Comes The Storm. Very bouldery start leads to excellent sustained route with funky sequences. DRB lower-off. | 20m, 6 | |||
Gilham's Crags - Northside Sportz Wall | |||||
25 | ★ Spoil Sportz
Technical moves starting 1 metre right of Licorice All Sports. Can also use a small cam at the start. FA: Glen Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1991 | 18m | |||
24 | Licorice All Sportz
Grotty black central groove. A wire up high can also be useful. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991 | 18m | |||
24 | Sporting Chance
In the middle of the cliff is a tree growing out of the cliff. Up past PR and double BR to easy ground. FA: Glenn Tempest & Huw Lewis, 1991 | 15m | |||
Gilham's Crags - Southside Begegnung Wall | |||||
21 | ★ Never Stop Gibbin'
Great thin technical face climbing. Start 2m left of "Begegnung". Tricky layback start, then delicately up face past 5 U-bolts. At the 5th bolt head up rightwards (ie ignore the sixth bolt out left; that's for the direct finish) to mantle onto the ledge (can protect with .75 cam and long draw), then traverse right to belay/rap station of 'Begegnung'. FA: Naomi Gibbs, 2008 | 20m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Mum's Route (Never Stop Gibbin' Direct)
From the last bolt of 'Never Stop Gibbin'', head left to another bolt before gaining the major horizontal, then up past another 2 bolts to chains. If you don't like the space between the last two rings, bring some gear for the seam (eg small-med wire). Great climbing. | 30m | |||
27 | ★★★ Proprioception Lost
Tricky climbing up an overhanging seam, with a good measure of dynos and technique required. Joins CNU for a few moves before finishing up arete, no. 1or 2 camalot required. FFA: adam demmert, 2012 | 15m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★ Don't Make a Monster of Your Mind
Starts in cave where cliff meets the little creek, and climbs the steep wall just left of arete. A brutal jump start off a crimp (add a rock if you are short), leads into some enjoyable wrestling and technical finish. FA: Ross Taylor, 2009 | 15m, 6 | |||
21 | ★ Physical therapy
Good technical face climbing up to and through a shallow corner. Start off big block 10m right and around corner from DMAMOYM . Follow ring bolts. (The third ring is very hard to clip, and is quite dangerous if you blow it) FFA: Catherine de Vaus & Adam Demmert, 2012 | 10m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ 9 out of 10 ain't bad
Start of same boulder as PT. Surprisingly continuous climbing heading up and right with a tricky crux. FFA: James Scott-Bohanna, Catherine de Vaus & Adam Demmert, 2012 | 12m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ 7 of 9 is Lovely
Start down right of 9 oo 10 in creek bed. Follow 3 FHs to join 2nd FH of 9 oo 10 FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2013 | 15m, 7 | |||
25 | ★ Borg
Start up 1st 2 FHs of 7 of 9. Traverse right up past 3 FHs to join 9 oo 10 at its 4th FH FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2013 | 15m, 7 | |||
Gilham's Crags - Southside The Chilly Bin | |||||
24 | ★ The Gloaming
Starts in the middle of the wall off a big rock. Up past a FH, to another FH in the dyke, left to the next FH (still in the dyke), then move up and left past three more FHs and the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'. FA: ross taylor, 2008 | 20m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Sleazy Slimpers
Start as for 'The Gloaming'. At the second bolt head directly up past a RB sleazing your way past many slimpers to a thin seam 2RB. At top of seam head left, RB and up to hit the major break. At the break continue to head left and then up through the steeper rock passing the pocket of love and 3 more RB, to a double u bolt anchor. FFA: adam demmert, 2012 | 30m, 9 | |||
25 | ★ Sultry Slots
3 meters right of Gloaming, straight up via 4 fixed hangers, then clip the next 2 RB bolts on Sleazy Slimpers slightly left, then back right past another fixed hanger, to finish up gloaming direct - trending left and then up steep head wall on cams to double bolt anchor. FFA: 2012 | 30m, 7 |
Affichant les 56 voies total.