Noeuds dans Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre

Much of this guide is based on Kieran Loughran's wonderful Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre print guide (1996). It has been updated by Neil Monteith and friends (2005-2007).

One of Australia's premier areas. A high concentration of quality routes of every variety. 'Taipan Wall' is world renowned for offering some of the most amazing steep orange sandstone routes around. The bouldering is also very popular.

Useful Info: Much of this guide is based on Kieran Loughran's wonderful Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre print guide (1996).

Obvious cave opposite Taipan etc. Approach via flat rock or from Camp Sandy.

Sit start off the pedestal left of Snow Mike, bust straight out the roof with some tension before topping out the cliff.

Low start in cave. Big moves lead to finish jug above boulder. The extension is V7 on its own.

Left line of slopers through roof to jugs. Traverse right, up to next level and back left to jug.

Start at possum overhang, make moves into undercling and then pop out right into tim and kyles big love.

Sit start to central line through roof to join PO.

Sit start to right hand line through roof joining PO.

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The Northern Walls offer a wide variety of climbs with a few being outstanding. While some of the cliffs do not look particularly attractive at first sight, don't let that put you off. These steep walls offer good wall climbing and a couple of weird grooves. There's not a bad climb here, but some are quite unusual and not to everyone's taste. Whatever else you do, don't miss out on 'Trident'.

The cliffs are shaded much of the time but get sun on summer mornings (as shown in the topo below, taken at 8:30 AM). It's a good spot for mild to warm days but it is quite sheltered so can get humid and sticky.

The following 3 climbs ascend the most Western buttress on the Northern walls (the Kindergarten bouldering is just around the corner). For all routes on this buttress there is an abseil ring & fixed sling just below the highest part of the wall.

Up past FH and gear to ledge, out through roof (FH), then veer left up nice grey wall. Up to and along the final left leading wide crack below roof.

Starting from the ground, up past FH to ledge, out through roof past 2nd FH, then veer right and straight up the featured orange/grey wall finishing steeply through jugs (careful what you pull on). Finish at abseil point.

Not bad for the grade... Takes the RH arete of buttress. Starts up on the ledge, so you have to do a short pitch up the start of SO, or roped traverse in from the Kindergarten (about Gr 15). Up corner on R (3m R of SO), then step left to arete. Up this, before trending R towards the top to finish R of arete (Don't go direct to the rap point as there are some dangerous blocks).

Most of the following climbs start from ledges above ground level.

LOWER LEDGE: This is the ledge you access for routes such as 'Cool Connections'. Directly under ledge is a steep wall, with a fixed rope on the RHS (up gritty slab).

UPPER LEDGE: This is the ledge you access for routes such as 'Agent of Cool'. The fires have burnt off the fixed access rope to the upper ledge (via ramp), so either do a short access pitch on the R somewhere, or if already on the lower ledge, you can do a tricky 5m scramble up the entrance to the 'chasm'. There's some rap slings on the West side of the upper ledge.

The easiest line to the top and is a bit more worthwhile if climbed from the ground. Start directly under LHS of wall, up to mantle onto small ledge, then up steep but easy wall to main ledge. Stretch to clip FH, then straight up wall / grooves to top. Rap down into gully as for Birth of the Cool.

Probably to be unrepeated since access has been cleaned up for the climbs on the ledge! Up chossy looking corner 10m L of 'large hole in roof'.

Interesting wall climbing, culminating in a nice finger crack on the L side of the headwall. Due to the convoluted nature of the wall, it's worth scoping out your route before you start.

On the LHS of the blank overhanging wall (on ledge BELOW Agent of Cool) is a scoop (FH) which you can climb to a stance. Now keep trending up and R across wall (ignore the easier finish straight up) to an unlikely move up to shallow corner. Up to horizontal breaks, finishing via finger crack.

Exhilarating climbing up the middle of the wall. Not trivial to find the route and gear on the traverse. Access via the start of CC (FH), traverse across wall to FH, then up short crack to hard moves R past FH, and awesome final headwall. Gear to size 2, camalot.

As for Moon Dreams to juggy horizontal break; then R past flakes via a big move, then straight up amazing wall. Resist the urge to climb into diagonal crack - finish straight up. Takes lots of nuts, and a few small cams. Add a grade if climbed placing gear.

Song from Melbourne Duo 'Time for Dreams'. ...the luminous Amanda Roff muses, “when I wrote the song I was thinking of Norman Mailer’s “Ancient Evenings” where at one point in the afterlife you must swim through a river of actual human shit”. (which might explain the first pitch of AE)!?

Start as for Moon Dreams - across to FH on wall, then R to 2nd FH over lip of roof (and a hidden hold). Now up and R through steep terrain / horizontals (ignore thread on AE) and up to Arete and welcome jugs even bigger than those on the rest of the route. A pretty cool excursion. Trad belay - rap down into gully from higher rap station on pillar. Take med-large nuts and cams to size 1.

A bit of a link-up, with the other routes on this wall providing easier access than the wide crack!

1. 22, Wide crack to DBB as for P1 of Ancient Evenings (take brackets).

2. 19, Continue climbing leftwards for about 5m then straight up nice crack, trending left on the large breaks. Either escape left (belay), or go straight up delightful thin crack to the top. Descend from bollard down the East face.

Looks like a sensational overhanging headwall; but has a very difficult crux move. Start as for Cool Intentions in the major chasm just left of Agent of Cool.

1. 22, Traverse wide crack (large cams) and awkwardly around arete to a hanging DBB in corner (brackets required).

2. 24+, From DBB, up overhanging wall past 2 FH, and a fixed sling (Tat replaced, bolts look ok?). New rap ring for this climb (shared with MD).

A movie out at the time was called Cruel Intentions. Start: Start by scrambling down to a platform of rock just below and to the left of BOTC. Climb takes the obvious (wide) left leading crack. Then head straight up wall (just before arete), past small hanging corner, and up wall past a FH. NOTE: The 2016 Gramps guide has the topo wrong - the route pictured in the guide is Ancient Evenings, and not this route.

Up the wall. A few meters up there is a sickle shaped crack/pod that takes a bomber #7 rock. Up on natural gear. Take care with the juggy rock near the top, as some of it is a little fragile. Rap from the big penis-shaped bollard.

Start: Start on the left wall of the gully, a few metres right of the start of the distinctive horizontal break.

As soon as you are out of the scoop and onto the face look up. 2 FH take you through the lovely rippling grey wall above. Finish at the ledge, with another chain/ring combo (50m rope is long enough to lower off).

Start: Start as for 'Pressure Drop'.

An old Jamaican ska song, but also descriptive of the relief felt by the first ascentionist after finally ticking it, just as a cool front rolled through on a hot day.

Start: Start at the back of the gully on the same wall as, and about 15m L of, 'Agent of Cool'.

A fantastic natural line that was one of the 'last great lines' in the Grampians until Lee Cossey put a few days work into it and freed it in November 2015.

Start: On the right wall of the gully, about 15m L of 'Neptune' pitch 2, is this striking overhung curving corner/crack. Up tips finger crack to crux move from crimpy pinch to big huecos above the sickle, monkey right into the crack (drop the rope back to the belayer - or use double rope technique - to avoid heinous drag) and blast upwards to glory.

First ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCljblIsMYk

The following climbs are back on 'ground level' of the Northern Walls.

For routes in the vicinity of 'Trident', descend via an abseil station found 10m west of the top of 'Trident' (35m to the ground).

Start: Overhung bolted groove (22/23) leading to roof about 10m left of 'Trident'. Traverse right then hard out through roof.

Good face climbing but a long approach.

Start: Start as for 'Trident'.

1. 20m (14) As for pitch 1 of It's My Brain Again.

2. 30m (14) Traverse L to the major line (very easy, climbed on FA of Plastic People) left of the smooth wall and step left around the arete and then up the steep wall, continuing up the headwall via lovely cracks.

Was almost going to call it YACSAFT (yet another climb starting as for Trident) but that would be silly. This climb was originally approached from the ground but the approach is long and quite easy and mostly climbed by other routes. It is best approached via the 'Trident' area abseil after doing another climb.

Start: Start on the large ledge on the left below the overhang about 12m down the abseil.

Good face climbing on pockets on the second pitch. Could be straightened out at the top.

Start: Start as for 'Trident'.

1. 25m (14) Follow the first pitch of 'Trident' to the traverse L at 9m. Traverse L and keep going L around the arete to a ledge above the overhang. Move L along ledge to belay below L side of orange-streaked wall (2FH).

2. 25m (20) Up the grey wall, 2FH, just L of the orange streaks to a cave. Step R and pull over overhang into thin crack. When crack steepens move L to easy ground and go up.

The best way to finish 'Trident', as you would expect from two masters of stone! Enormous holds providing the opportunity to move through some unusually steep terrain at the grade.

Start: Start as for 'Trident'.

1. 21m (14) Climb the first pitch of 'Trident'.

2. 24m (16) Up a short crack from the L side of the ledge to a horizontal slot. Traverse L along the slot (large cam) and go up steeply to cave. Take the crack from the L side of the cave (the crack on the R side of the cave is far easier and far less interesting).

Contrived but enjoyable.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Trident' (i.e. do pitch 1 of 'Trident' first).

"Continuously steep between the vertical and the overhanging", Speedie. A very interesting angle and a bloody good climb. One of the best of its grade. Consistently difficult and strenuous, can be done in one pitch if double ropes are used.

Start: Find the "T" inscription at the corner 15m L of Zola and just R of the large overhang.

1. 20m (14) Ascend the wall just R of the crack, passing a horizontal slot which accepts a #4 camalot (and that's the only pro you'll be likely to get in the first 4m), and up to ledge at 9m. Traverse 3m L and go steeply up another groove to a ledge.

2. 15m (14) Traverse 3m R and up steep crack for 8m. Near the top, move L a bit before moving up to the top. This helps to avoid some loose blocks.

Good climbing, with funky moves around the overhang which would have been hard to protect before small cams.

Start: Start as for 'Trident', i.e. start at the crack line about 15m L of Zola.

1. 20m (19) Follow 'Trident' to the ledge at 9m then head directly over the overhang and up the shallow orange corner.

2. 15m (16) Move 2m R and climb the wall L of the wide chimney (bold to start.

A good climb based on 'Sternold'. Be careful with rope management around the 'Sternold' overhang.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Trident'.

Up face (FH) to ledge (some poor rock) at 8 metres. Climb directly through the overhang (small cams) and up the easier corner to a small stance on the right. Move back left and climb the steep headwall (2FH). Will probably need to go back some distance to belay (not included in length)

Start: Start 4m L of 'Spinoza' and about 15m R of 'Trident'. After negotiating the bulges at the start, this wall offers a number of ways to meander upwards via numerous brittle jugs.

The definitive word on ethics? Wall 4m R of Zola. Originally done in 2 pitches but pitch 2 is worthless and it is now a 1 pitch sport route.

Start: Start 4m down L of 'Starstruck'.

Unusual groove climbing on the first pitch. Rarely, if ever, repeated. Protection looks a problem but climbing looks good.

Start: Start a few metres L of 'Germinal' at the scooped line (4m up R of Spinoza).

1. 20m (21) Trick moves up first scoop lead to hard climbing in the second scoop and so to a ledge. 'Spinoza' rap anchor is just to the left and now would be a good time to use it.

2. 30m (21) L to an easy break in the overhang, back R and up steep wall.

Climbs the wall L of Germinal (can be done in one pitch with creative rope management). Climb pitch 1 of Germinal. Delicate traverse L above roof to shallow crack in middle of the wall. Arrange gear and launch up awesome wall above, keeping slightly R on the orange rock. Finish up and L.

An old classic with a tough crux. Often done in 1 pitch.

Start: Start beneath the major but strangely scooped line up the prominent sheer orange/grey wall at the foot, and to the left, of the descent gully. This is at the L edge of the jumble of flakes and blocks.

1. 15m (17) Move up an easy rib R of the corner and traverse L across a gargoyle into the corner (the direct variants have all been bouldered). Up corner, an old peg or two, with hard moves to gain the cave.

2. 22m (14) Continue up the chimney to a ledge on the L. Continue in the line or move out L to the arete. The rap anchor (added early '07) is about 0.5m down in the crack itself.

Looks wonderful but rarely repeated...it has handed out some spankings so may be rather solid. The bolts are those funny hanging ring jobbies and are rather old, plus the abseil sling needs replacing with a decent anchor. Ascends the golden wall L of the descent gully, between the upper sections of 'Asterisk' and 'Germinal'.

Start: Get to the start by soloing across a ledge from 10m up the descent gully. Alternatively, the initial cracks of 'Asterisk' are reputed to be a good warm-up approach.

Quite attractive, with some good moves. Protection is good even though the old bolts are terrible. Originally two pitches but better done as one.

Start: Scramble R from the foot of 'Germinal' along the vertical wafers leaning against the main wall, to a flake crack.

Belay in the chasm just right of 'Germinal' at an old initial "A".

1. 18m (20) Easily up to the wide apparently detached flake crack and go easily up to the top of this (rotten rock, very good protection from large cams). Move L and climb the wall via the intermittent crack/seam past 2 poor bolts to a narrow ledge (poor bolt) (LOE belay is to the left) then up into a sentry box.

2. 6m (17) Fairly sensational out of the sentry-box (watch rope-drag) into the final crack.

Middle of face left of 'SyntheticSpine'. There's also a medium wir below the final bolt.

It's nice to climb a pinnacle that has no easy way up. Final mantle might be solid for the grade.

Start: Start about 10m L of the foot of the gully, about 10m around R of 'Germinal'. This route climbs the south-west arete of the square pinnacle that squats at the foot of the descent gully.

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

'Central Buttress' is the big somewhat scrappy looking area extending right from the Amphitheatre 'Gully', until the cliffline breaks down into a gully before the Grey & Green Walls. It offers a wide variety of climbs with a few outstanding classics. While some of the cliffs do not look particularly attractive at first sight, don't let that put you off. The highlight of this area, and the best section of the entire Amphitheatre apart from 'Taipan Wall', is the recess containing 'Simpleton', 'Missing' and 'Technical Ecstasy'.

'Central Buttress' is in the shade until early afternoon. 'Simpleton' gets sun only on summer evenings. An early start on a hot day can see you up a good climb before the heat of the afternoon. The climbs left of 'Simpleton' appear grey and amorphous but are generally quite steep and more difficult than appearances suggest.

A major geological feature.

Start: Start beneath the prominent chimney.

1. 40m (10) (crux) The line to belay below an overhang.

2. 20m (-) Climb the overhang and continue up the line.

Arete right of 'Incisor'. Take lots of slings for the creaking jugs.

Start: As for 'Incisor'

1. 40m (16) Bridge up 'Incisor' for 11.22 metres until a rising traverse gains the right arête. Up arête in a spectacular position, then up the wall about 2m left of the arête until the angle eases. A short juggy arête leads to a belay at the base of the orange headwall.

2. 25m (16) Step left and climb Incisor's overhang. Climb wall on the right to regain the arête, which is followed to the top.

Quite good really, but the crux is a little intense. Should be OK now that the dust has cleared.

Start: Start as for 'Incisor'.

1. 8m (20) (crux) Thin climbing on the R wall, 2 bolts, to a ledge. Large cams for belay.

2. 25m (18) Balance to bolt and follow shallow cracks, mostly to R of cracks, until the holds R of the cracks develop into a steep arete. Follow arete with increasing ease to easy slab and move diagonally R to abseil anchor for 'Empty Pockets' (40m abseil).

This excellent buttress has been done in one pitch (not on the first ascent) but that placed the second at serious risk on the start. Add some slings, cams to #2½ and a handful of wires to the rack. Some think that the climb is worthless, that may be due to style or aesthetic preferences but they may be right. Make up your own mind.

Start: Start below slabby groove about 10m L of 'Strela', just R of the foot of the major Amphitheatre 'Gully'.

1. 15m (22) Teeter into groove and up this and short wall to thread belay (requires nut-key to thread), five bolts, optional #2 cam.

2. 25m (19) Many people abseil off and avoid this pitch which is a pity as it's good value. Pull up R of the belay and move back L to middle of buttress. Straight up, four bolts, #2½ cam after second bolt, to chain below overhang.

Generally nice climbing with a spectacular move through the overhang near the top, but spoiled by the first 10m shared with 'Strela'. Could improve with traffic.

On the FA, the overhang at the top was avoided by traversing right and climbing easy ground to finish up a steep flake left of the finish of "Strela". The overhang was added by the team doing the variant start.

Start: Start as for "Strela", the first chimney-line R of the foot of the Amphitheatre 'Gully'.

1. 25m (15) Up the dirty groove for 10m (large cams) and traverse L along sloping ledge to orange-tinged crack up buttress. Up crack to good ledge.

2. 20m (9) Climb groove from L end of ledge to below roof.

3. 25m (18) Swing through overhang (large nut, at least #10 wire, not cam) then wall and easy ledges to top.

Big slopes.

Start: Start 1m L of the original start.

Not a classic. The first of the major chimney lines accessible without scrambling up the descent gully. The length of this climb is preposterous but it wasn't worth repeating in full to correct the description. If you wish to do so, go ahead. The various possible lines at the top of 'Strela' have all been done as variants to 'Indentured', 'Strela' and 'Filling'.

Start: Start at the first chimney line R of the foot of the descent gully.

1. 21m (14) (crux) The first 10m is hard but protection is OK (large cams). Ascend the chimney (crux passing a bulge of dirt) until a second chimney starts on the R. Traverse R into this chimney and continue to a ledge 4m higher.

2. 37m (-) The bottomless chimney and follow the same line to ledge on the buttress between the two chimneys.

3. 37m (-) Step across the L-hand chimney then traverse, and up to regain the R-hand chimney. Up to below the prows near the top of the cliff.

4. 9m (-) Deep chimney.

Pitches 1 and 2 could be run together.

1. 15m 14. Climb Strela to above the first large bulge. Step L to belay. [Indentured traverses further L along this ledge]

2. 20m 12. Up cracks 1m L of arête, moving L to belay on good ledge.

3. 15m 16. Up to ledge below orange overhang. Steep crack through middle of overhang to ledge.

4. 30m 10. Up to and over overlap, up to flake crack [original finish of Indentured] and up.

Good, though the early part of the first pitch is a bit contrived. Poorly protected in spots. All pitches are about the same grade though pitch three is probably the most serious.

Abseil as for 'Simpleton' or walk-off.

Start: Start at a small groove 3m L of 'Molar Buttress'.

1. 25m (16) Up the groove, a move R, then up the wall with so-so protection to a good ledge.

2. 21m (16) Take a steep, juggy crack from the ledge then follow the R edge of the compact grey rock via a series of large chicken heads to a superbly fashioned ledge on the R. Probably the best pitch on the climb.

3. 30m (16) More chicken heads for 4m then easier but not well-protected climbing leads up leftish via a slab, corner and wall.

Something to get its teeth into you. The start and finish are enjoyable, but the middle pitches are weird, spooky and poorly protected. Take a double-length sling.

Start: Start 9m R of 'Strela' at the initials "MB" below a groove.

1. 35m (12) Gain the groove and follow it to the first big ledge. Traverse 10m R along the ledge before belaying.

2. 15m (9) Scramble up diagonally R. Step around the arete to gain the ramp that runs back L. Follow the ramp and then step out onto the front. Move L a bit and then up to belay on another big ledge.

3. 25m (12) Move up a bit and then traverse L to the other side of an obvious horn of rock. Things get strange here and it's hard to work out where to go. Go L to mantle onto a huge, vibrating knob. Move up and R and back R to a weakness in the overhangs. Scuttle up this exposed break to the next big ledge.

4. 25m (12) Quite pleasant climbing up intermittent cracks and walls. If you head up and rightward you should arrive at the abseil bolts as for Simpleton.

Nice arête 2m right of 'Molar Buttress', between 'Molar Buttress' and 'Herbal Sin'.

Start: Just to the right of the first pitch of 'Molar Buttress', below the right arete of a groove.

An impressive overhang. Originally graded 17! Not too hard but you'ld get a nasty thump if you fell off the crux.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Molar Buttress'.

Great sport first pitch and OK trad second pitch.

"And she's begging you please not to tease her with reason,

Cause all she wants to do is dance.

You're in a Disco Dilemma", Mike Rudd

Start: Two metres right of Herbal Sim below diagonal groove.

1. 15m (22) Take R-leading groove (5 FH) to rap station, a great sport single pitch.

2. 20m (18) Hand traverse left along the break beneath the overhang and swing left onto a steep wall. Up the clean seam to large ledge. Rap from Herbal Sim anchor.

Not a popular concept. Takes the corner out L of the main 'Simpleton' corner with a loose crux.

Start: There is a chimney/gully 10m R of Molar Buttress; start 1m R of this gully.

1. 15m (-) Up the line in the short wall to a bushy ledge.

2. 30m (17) (crux) Take the corner at the L end of the ledge until it fades out. Traverse L to a bushy cave.

3. 35m (-) L to the arete. Up just L of arete with an exciting swing over a bulge.

20m of new climbing, traversing out left from Simpleton, up an impressive looking wall. Some of the rock is unsettlingly hollow or cracked, which may appeal to some. Seconds should take prussics and/or not unclip the first bolt until it is at their waist if this is at their limit.

To get to the start of this pitch, follow Simpleton up to the cave and continue around the roof and up the corner. You want to stop and build a belay at the small corner/ledge below the Simpleton belay (if you get to the old carrot you have gone a few metres too far).

Start: Make subtle moves up the corner to a horizontal break (cams 20-30mm). Left and up to a flake and bolt. Up to another small flake, finger traverse left to a bolt, then left and up to horizontal break. Exit left onto the arête for a rest. Up the steep but easier grey wall to the chains.

A magnificent climb up a great line. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the slabs below 'Technical Ecstasy' and traversing in. Do the finish as described (it's worth it) and save the obvious finish for 'Technical Ecstasy'. Take 1 or 2 large cams (e.g. #4 or #5 camalot).

Start: Start as for 'Gross Encounters', 1m R of gully.

1. 30m (8) Climb the short wall to large ledge, up to next ledge and follow overlap R to long, narrow treed ledge where the wall steepens (the scramble from 'Technical Ecstasy' comes in here from the right). Move up then L off ledge and belay on small ledge at foot of huge corner, about 7m below obvious cave.

2. 35m (18) Up to cave and out R and up to FH at lip (a thin sling can protect the clip) and follow the line. At 25m exciting moves lead into the thin line just to the R. Belay on a great small ledge with an old (untrustworthy) carrot bolt and bomber trad.

3. 20m (18) On until 4m below the roof. Traverse L (wildly exposed) across the wall to easy ground.

Slabba-dabba-do! An absorbing, exacting and extremely long pitch. The lengthy co-crux slab sections are unique for the 'Grampians'. Take 6 brackets, cams from micro to #3, and a few wires. There's ledge-fall potential at the 2nd FH (oops). A retrobolt above the 1st bolt (and shifting the 1st bolt a bit lower) would be welcomed. Until then, a quick safer option is to scoot up the easy first 8m of 'Simpleton', walk R to Present's 3rd bolt, and lower off it to pre-clip/pre-extend the 2nd bolt. You could also climb this as a fantastic 24/5 by starting up 'Simpleton' and linking into this pitch at the 3rd bolt. Start: Scramble up to the ledge/terrace, 2-3m R of 'Simpleton', and 8m L of the start of 'Missing'. Straight up between Simpleton & Missing, past 2 FHs, 5 carrots (glue-in stainless) & Missing's crux bolt. Join Missing only for a bodylength, namely it's crux. Up high, stay 3-4m R of Simpleton until almost at the capping roof. If your rope is "only" 60m long, you may wish to belay here to avoid simul-climbing 5m. Finish out the roof of Technical Ecstasy.

A beautiful thin line leads to a large roof at the top of the cliff. You have to be good at placing RPs and other small wires, although the advent of microcams is a boon for this route. Take a rack up to #3½ cam, add 2 sets of RPs and plenty of microcams, a couple of extra middle-size cams for belays, thin sling and many quickdraws. A bolt was placed on the first pitch around 1996 because the original starting stump disintegrated.

Start: Start by scrambling up 'Technical Ecstasy' for 15m to a terrace on the L where the real climbing starts.

1. 15m (22) Pull onto the wall 3m L of 'Technical Ecstasy' past FH, then to flake. Continue to ledge.

2. 35m (23) Fantastic! Step L into thin line. Up wall and follow line up wavy slab to second wave, traverse L at bulge past bolt (carrot), reach past bulge and move back R to line. Up line, dodgy protection at first, to good horizontal break which is where you join 'Technical Ecstasy'. To belay you can either (a) hand-traverse L below bulge to Simpleton's bolt; (b) take the wild crack through the bulge and then move L to belay in the 'Simpleton' corner; or (c) belay on the line, on the slab above the bulge (as shown in topo).

3. 20m (22) Back R to line and up easy slab to roof. Step R a metre and monkey out the juggy flake through the 5m roof.

Might get bumped up a grade once the third ascentionist gets back from cleaning his undies to give us his thoughts. The 18m of new climbing is only 2-4m L of the original second pitch, and can be escaped at a few spots. Otherwise, this version of the second pitch is every bit as good as the magnificent second pitch of 'Missing'. Start: Start as for TE. 1) (25m 18) Do a short version of pitch 1 of TE, belaying above the great initial vertical crack, 5m below the fat flakes. 2) (35m 23) Blast up the classy seam 2m L of the fat flakes, eventually rejoining the original second pitch for it's wild final cracks. Needs a full rack including a #8 hex, plus extra draws & multiples of micro-cams and micro-wires (and a good ability to place them!). Can be very well protected but gear is quite tricky in 1 or 2 spots. The direttissima finish to this pitch, through the bulge onto the top slab, was also done at bold 19 (and is shown in the ACA topo) but the original finish is better. 3) (15m 18) As per the original.

Another great route with some pretty bold bits on the second pitch.

Start: Start at the toe of the slabs 18m R of 'Simpleton', just L of a gully.

1. 35m (16) Up easy slabs and past blocks to the cliff proper and a nice crack system up a wall. Up the crack to a slab and belay on the second ledge on the R.

2. 30m (20) Up short, wide, shallow crack (large cam) to a poorly protected reach and so to overhang (alternatively, move R from belay, go up and back L below overhang). Move past L side of overhang to overlap, L to thin crack, wild moves above gear lead up crack to next overlap/break. Go 4m L along this to the next crack/break over bulge (shared with Missing), then go L again to belay in 'Simpleton' corner. You can also traverse L along the major break across missing to reach Simpleton's 2nd belay (at the old carrot), but this is not as good.

3. 20m (16) Up the last bit of the 'Simpleton' corner to the capping roof and hand traverse L.

Good, but not in the same class as the other climbs here. Apparently it should have been called 'Maniac'.

Start: Start as for 'Technical Ecstasy'.

1. 35m (16) As for 'Technical Ecstasy'. An alternative to the first pitch is to belay on the R about 8m below the original belay and climb directly into the second pitch crack.

2. 30m (13) Move R to a groove on the far side of the wall and climb the groove to belay 10m below the capping overhang.

3. 20m (18) Up the slab, keeping just L of arete to a wildly exposed pull through the overhang.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Very reachy, add two grades if you're less than 190cm tall. The original climb bashed its way up to gain the line R of 'Mania' and followed this line until 24m below the top then aided the final pitch.

Start: The advisable approach is to abseil from the top of 'Mania' into the gully R of 'Mania' and do the final pitch.

Probably worthwhile at the grade. The route originally started as for 'Imbecile' but the route is described here with a better start.

Start: Start about 10m R of 'Mania', and 5m R of gully.

1. 40m (10) Climb an easy groove about 10m R of 'Mania' (5m R of a gully) until forced L into the gully. Move up to below a line on the R wall of the gully. An alternative start claws directly up the horrible gully. Why would you do this?

2. 30m (15) Follow the line past an overhang. A scary alternative (16) is to climb the left arete of the line, gained from the gully to the left, to meet the original pitch at the lip of the roof.

3. 25m (14) On up the line to the top in a very exposed position and continue up final short wall.

Clean slab/wall climbing all the way up to the chains on TSIC. Two BRs (hangers required!) and an assortment of cams and trad gear. Slightly contrived at the start, the hard moves past the first bolt can be avoided by easier climbing to the left, but delightful above. The second bolt is hidden until you get right to it!

Start: Five or six metres left of This Structure is closed (very contrived). Alt start - might be better starting immediately L of SIC, then trending up L towards the bolt and onwards. Won't be as contrived this way, and gear will run straighter.

Despite being an excellent pitch up a superb line, this climb is over 1m high and has no hand-rails. It takes the great corner leading to the right side of the huge overhangs on 'Central Buttress'. Protection is excellent (double up cams to #2½ and throw in some larger ones for luck). Originally graded 17 it has cleaned up with traffic.

Start: Start about 30m R of 'Mania' et al on a boulder below the R edge of the corner.

A nice word, paddock: very evocative. Not a bad climb either. A #4 cam would be handy on the final pitch.

Start: Start below the above-noted alcove (about 50m R of Cerambycid).

1. 30m (14) Scramble up into the alcove and traverse out L along a narrow ledge to below the crack. Pull steeply into crack and up crack until it fades. Continue into the flake crack above to belay on a small ledge, about level with the top of the buttress to the R.

2. 20m (9) Move to the L end of the belay ledge and follow the line to an area of fragile rock that leads to a terrace at 20m, below the L edge of an awning-like overhang.

3. 15m (10) Up steeply just L of the overhang. Step back R above overhang and go up to next terrace. Traverse 5m L to belay below chimney/corner.

4. 10m (13) Climb steeply up L wall of corner.

Probably quite good and certainly unusual. Awkward climbing up the peapods leads to a solid, overhanging corner. A number of Aliens or similar tiny cams are needed to protect the hard move out of the peapods and protection is otherwise excellent.

Start: Start beneath the alcove, just R of 'The Long Paddock'.

Would be a reasonable, long beginners' climb if not for the ridiculously hard [and hard to protect] move around the bulge to start which is out of character with everything else on the route. After that it's hard to work out where it goes, but the climbing is generally easy.

Start: Start 10m around R of 'Body Bath'. The original description says that it starts behind a pine tree. That was 40 years ago. There is a dead pine tree resting amongst the gum trees where I think this climb starts. There used to be a dead pine tree just L of 'The Long Paddock'. I wonder if the M was put there by the first ascent party or just a guidebook editor who thought they had worked out where the route went?

1. 40m (15) Climb up through an undercut break (crux, there is an old initial "M" at this break and poor protection), move R a little then up the buttress to belay on the highest point.

2. 24m (9) Good holds lead up a steep wall to a wide ledge below the overhang. Climb up L of the smooth wall.

3. 25m (4) Move 4m L, then straight to the top.

Essentially a variant finish to 'Median' except that it exaggerates the length, but it's hard to work out where it goes. Possibly only 10m of independent climbing. See comments for Median re the start.

Start: Start as for 'Median'.

1. 40m (15) (crux) As for 'Median'.

2. 24m (-) Follow 'Median' to the overhang and climb directly over the overhang.

3. 26m (-) Traverse L to line and climb to large ledge.

4. 30m (-) Scramble up diagonally L. Keep the rope on or not as the spirit moves you.

Shady gully on far left end of Grey and Green Walls. All routes here receive no sun. Routes are on the gully face of Central Buttress.

Could be more direct.

Start: Start on the gully face of the 'Median' buttress around R of the overhang system. Just left of burnt out pine tree left of Grep at entrance of Chasm. Up the steep wall for 7m then left along horizontal to arête and face above. Abseil off rock bollard.

Feb 2019 - access blocked by new baby trees growing at base. Could possibly step across onto face from ledge with burnt out pine tree on R, but this cuts out the first 2m of the climb.

Lovely arete that is too short but good warm-up. 'Arete' leading to tree at left end of ledge below the wall.

An easy option.

Start: Start below a groove below and L of the L-hand line. Step off boulder and climb the wall (FH) into an easy groove that leas to a ledge at 7m, up steep crack and follow it left to arête. Abseil anchor up right.

The survivor in a war of attrition. Double ropes (and knowing how to use them!) are helpful.

Start: Start as for 'Coolsville' to ledge at 7m. Traverse right (medium hex), up right leaning crack. Rap anchor to the right.

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The great slabby walls left of 'Taipan Wall' are The 'Grey and Green Walls'. The smooth grey buttress on the left is, of course, 'The Grey Wall' while the mossy slab to the right is 'The Green Wall'. A smooth 15-20 metre high wall, the 'Petite Fleur' Face, runs along the foot of the cliffs.

There is a lot of good climbing on these walls, but many of the climbs aren't consistent. For instance, 'Sluice' has only two metres of grade 18 climbing in close to 100 metres. The original climbs are described but are sometimes included in composite climbs that are much more worthwhile. The contribution of the pioneers is not discarded but incorporated and acknowledged in more enjoyable climbs.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Looks elegant but the corner is hideously awkward and difficult to protect. Maybe medium-large hexes would help.

Start: Start at the far left side of the 'Petite Fleur' face beneath the gloomy corner.

A boulder problem that might ease when the R-hand crack is dry.

Start: Start beneath the twin cracks of Watchtower Castle's first pitch.

A tricky start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start just R of the twin cracks, 15m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

Puts the "F" back into 'Grampians' slabs. Take #1½, #3½ cams.

Start: Start below incipient flake 4m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

Nice climbing. Take large cams. Short people may need cams to protect the start. The finishes of 'Baby Doll' and 'La Balance' have been swapped to give more consistent routes (i.e. they cross each other about three quarters of the way up).

Start: Start a few m L of 'The Walltower Castle' and 4m R of 'La Balance'.

Don't take it too seriously. Most often done these days as the first pitch to Navigator.

Start: Start as for Walltower Castle.

Rising left leading thin face starting off boulder in middle of wall, right of small gum tree. Stick clip first bolt. 2 bolt lower off

start about 4m left of The Great Foaming Espresso Machine/ Shining Path. Stick clip the first bolt. Up past this and two more to a fixed anchor.

Start: Start below and R of the corner, about 8m right of 'Blank Frank'. A devious approach leads to the attractive shallow corner halfway up toward the right side of the wall. Recently retro-bolted with permission of FA. 2-U belay on terrace.

Variant finish to HTTM. Traverse left on pockets under third BR finishing up flake. Please respect the hanging oversized bonsai!

Just right of TGFEM. Up pocketed slab passing 3 FH and finishing up flake on right. Mantle to DB lower off. Please respect the oversized bonsai!

Bouldery.

Start: Start up the ramp R of 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine', directly below the groove of 'Spillway' (R of a large bush overhanging the top of this wall).

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

The narrow grey buttress left of the great mossy slabs.

An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative.

Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.

1. 10m (10) Up to the corner and up to terrace.

2. 40m (10) Up to the next ledge, up the steep rock and into the chimney on the R and up to belay at the top of the chimney.

3. 11m (10) Traverse R onto a long ledge, delicate at first with some doubtful rock.

4. 21m (10) Climb the crack/chimney running off R end of ledge or climb face L of chimney(much easier).

5. 30m (-) Easily up.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd