★★ Threadneedle 10

An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end.

Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.

1. 35m (10) Follow the ramp then up the corner that is the continuation of the ramp until able to move R to belay in the large cave.

2. 25m (10) Move out the next hole along from the one you entered by (feels ridiculously exposed) climb the pillar on the L (facing the cliff), with poor protection at first (crux). Continue up buttress to a ledge. Rope drag and communication can be difficulties. (Variants 2a. (10) Instead of traversing R into the cave, continue up the corner and move back R above the cave. Move R-wards to rejoin the route. 2b. Move back out of the hole that the cave was entered from and climb the rib to the R (facing the cliff).)

3. 35m (-) Up a series of walls to another large cave which these days is increasingly frequented by boulderers (Ground Control Caves) so you might feel a bit over-dressed with a rope on!

4. 20m (-) Either traverse L for 10m to rappel anchors or continue to top.

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

• Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

• Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

• Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

• Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

• Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

• Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

• Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

• Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

• Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

• Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

• Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education