Aide

The Peanut Gallery

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Ascensions : 11

Il est interdit d'escalader dans cette zone.

7

Saison

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Limit. de l'accès hérité de Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approche

Park in Visitor Centre carpark. Cross Fyans Creek on the bridge near the SE corner of the centre. From the paddock beyond the bridge the cliff is visible above and slightly to the L [NE]. Walk across the cleared area to the trees. 50m into the trees head R then veer L to follow the L side of a gully up hill to the 4wd track. Walk L on this and at the high point head up and slightly R to the cliff.

© (armstp)

Éthique hérité de Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Start: Prominent corner L of 'Spin Doctor'. BD4 useful.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 2010

Up R on L facing flakes on L side of outcrop. From ledge go up tricky little wall then easily up ramp.

FA: John Moore & Chris Baxter, 2007

Nice climbing on good, clean rock. Line 5m down R of SD. Up to bulge,above continue up line to ledge. Short wall then up easily.

FA: Chris Baxter & John Moore, 2007

Good sustained route. Thin crack 3m R of PT to a thin finish. [The last 4m of the crack was originally avoided on R]. Broken ground above and L of tree.

FA: John Moore & Chris Baxter. Direct version Philip, 2007

FA: Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2010

Buttress 12m R of Yes Minister. Nice crack then broken walls to headwall. Step L and up short slabby section. Move L to top of block. Down climb over the back to get off.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 20 Sept 2014

Start: 30m R of Yes Minister. Up crack to short L leaning groove. Climb wall L of this to thin horizontal crack. Steeply up and R from here to step R to ledge on R arete. Up easily. Abb off tree.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2010

  1. 22m 13. Up seam in middle of buttress. Continue up corner to belay at tree below RH pinnacle.

  2. 8m 13. Up short wide crack to platform between pinnacles. Traverse L under front of LH pinnacle. Down climb chimney and through gap to descent gully.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 20 Sept 2014

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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Mer 21 Juin
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