Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Upper Tier | |||||
Project 1
Open project. Sit start from jugs above the puddle, reaching for the slopers above. Hard not to touch the ground. Équip.: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | |||||
Project 2
Open project. Sit start at the corner/arete 1m right of previous route. Équip.: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | |||||
V0 | Crack line
Sit start at the corner crack 3m R of previous. Start with hand in the crack and pull for ledge. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | ||||
V1 | ★ Hanging Crack
Sit start 2m R of corner at the crack. Start with hand in crack and pull up through huecos. Beware of fall potential off the ledge. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | ||||
V1 | ★ Jug and up
Sit start 3m R of previous. Start with hands on jug and up passed the hueco. Beware of fall potential off the ledge. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | ||||
Project 3 - More jugs
Open project. Start just R of previous. Sit start at jug under big undercling. Équip.: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | |||||
Project 4 - Yet more jugs
Open project. Sit start 1.5m R of previous. Hands on jugs and crack up. Équip.: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | |||||
Project 5 - crack
Open project. Easy when standing start, I just couldn't get the sit start. Start at the crack at the left end of the ledge in the corner. Équip.: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | |||||
V0 | ★ Diagonal crack
Sit start under the diagonal crack. Start is 2m R of the arete R of the corner with the ledge R of the previous route. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | ||||
V0- | Is it in?
Sit start 2m R of previous. Start at the jug and move up to the left. V0- if you use the block for feet. Doing it without using the block would be harder. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | ||||
V0 | Standalone
Standing start between the corner and chimney R of the previous route. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | ||||
V0 | Picking the nose
Sit start under the hanging arete R of the previous route. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Juil 2021 | ||||
17 | Kylies Psyche
(The 1st climb on south end of platform) Tackle roof on jugs, left of obvious corner. Then straight up the easiest line to left side of orange rock bay and top. (Step right to a variant finish, grade 18). FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001 | 8m | |||
20 | The Air of Inevitability
Start up corner, break through roof on the left, finish up crack. FA: John Wentworth, 1982 | 8m | |||
19 | ★ Air of Expectancy
Climb corner and R face to roof. Plug the roof with cams on R allowing fear and trepidation to mount. Gather your gusto and with an air of expectancy, launch out to huge horizontal and up face to ledge with ever-decreasing jugs and thinning pro. Up to top. FA: Peter Lynch, 2012 | ||||
17 | ★ Stairway to Higher Places
First crack at left hand end, just right of cavey section. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing. FA: Peter Lynch, Paul Thompson & Brent Johnson, 2011 | 12m | |||
18 | ★ Facing an Unpalatable Truth
Crack left of Flight 11. FA: Stuart McElroy & michael batchelor, 2006 | 11m | |||
20 | ★ Flight 11
Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top. FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001 | 8m | |||
20 | ★ The Universe and Everything
Unprotected low down without side runners. An eliminate line, squeezed in and avoiding everything in the cracks to left and right. Straight up bouldery moves past the small undercling. FA: 21 Avr 2022 | ||||
18 | ★★ Meaning of Life
Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall. FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001 | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Sunday Outing
Last crack before right corner. Bridge corner, pull onto wall, and follow crack to top. A deliciously pumpy excursion. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012 | ||||
13 | Squeezed In
R of Sunday Outing, up chimney to ledge and follow seam to top. FA: John Wentworth, Josh Keogh, Juice & Peter Lynch, 2012 | ||||
8 | Descent gully
Up onto the block and up the flake. Frequently used as a down climb to access the platform. FA: John Wentworth, 1982 | 11m | |||
19 | ★★ Underneath Work
Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top. FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005 | 11m | |||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick
Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro. FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001 | 12m | |||
13 | ★★ EBs Make it EZy
1 metre right of AQPFR. Up flake and straight up wall. FA: John Wentworth, 1982 | 12m | |||
13 | KitKat
Same start as EBs Make it EZ. Up flake and into corner. FA: John Wentworth, 1982 | 12m | |||
22 | ★ Candyman
FA: Justin Ryan | 12m | |||
18 | ★★ Third Time Looser
Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots. FA: Dave Cameron, 2005 | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ Shits 6:30AM
Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top. FA: Dave Cameron, 2005 | 11m | |||
14 | ★ Coffin Lots
Start up diagonal flake, step right around corner, and up crack. (Variant start for Coffin Slot). FA: Paul Thompson, 2010 | ||||
14 | Coffin Slot
Start up wide slot, and continue up crack. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2010 | ||||
20 | Head Tripper
Sketchy lead. No protection for 6m. Delicate, balancy, and plays with your head. Requires a good spotter. Finish up through fun overlaps. FA: Peter Lynch & Alex Wootten, 2012 | ||||
13 | ★★ Black Chasm
The excellent dark and shady corner that regularly sees climbers unfamiliar with the art of bridging grovelling in the crack. FA: John Wentworth, 1982 | 10m | |||
16 | ★★ Up Up and Away
Variant of Boys Light Up. Up gymnastic start then straight up L arete only. FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor, 2006 | 10m | |||
17 | ★★★ Boys Light Up
Has it all, gymnastic start leads to a delicate face capped with an overhanging finish. All in a short action packed 9 m. FA: John Wentworth, 1982 | ||||
18 | Errol
Up the small undercut crack just around arete, approx 2m to the R of Boys Light Up. FA: John Wentworth, 1984 | 10m | |||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood
3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated. FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005 | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Other Flake Line
Squeezed in 1m R of YGDB. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012 | ||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack
The left of the two twin cracks. Delightful hand jams. FA: John Wentworth, 1982 | ||||
15 | ★ Right Crack
The right of the twin cracks. FA: John Wentworth, 1982 | ||||
15 | I Can Jump Puddles
Face left of major corner LoF. FA: Peter Lynch & Brent Johnson, 2010 | ||||
11 | ★ Leap of Faith
Major corner on R end of the wall. FA: John Wentworth & Vicky Wootten, 1986 | ||||
16 | Jealous Tart
Start easily up the diagonal crack behind the flake, onto ledge then up purple wall straight above (crux) protect with large cam. FA: Kylie Chomatek & Rick Carey, 2001 | ||||
16 | ★ Beautiful Bridget
Up the line of shallow pods/pockets passing a two finger pocket en route – to the left of Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor, 2006 | ||||
16 | Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy
Step across the water onto the arête, head on up, cams in horizontals. Arrange gear under small roof and pull through to glory. Alternate starts possible. FA: David Cameron, Richard Morley & Mal MacDonnell, 2005 | ||||
15 | I Would Give Anything Just to Be Like Him
Start at crack line at water's edge, and finish up left facing corner on R. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2010 | ||||
17 | ★ Water Light
L of WT. Delightful climbing requiring a tad of commitment. Aim for the dinner plate then finish up L facing corner and overlap. FA: Brent Johnson & John Wentworth | ||||
18 | ★★★ Water Torture
Classic of the crag. The overhanging nature of this climb will leave a leader digging deep as you go for the top. Start on left and step onto wall over perpetual puddle, traverse right into line and follow face and flakes up to large horizontal. Move R to double threads and blast for the top. FA: Peter Lynch, 2010 | ||||
17 | ★★ Water Board
The corner crack finishing straight up. Reach the start by funky traverse in from the right end of puddle. Lose a star if you traverse in from the left. FA: William Wentworth, John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2010 | ||||
9 | Left of Centre
First climb on Buddha Wall (small sloping wall fronted by perpetual puddle). Step onto wall at Buddha's face (clay stone pocket, whose features have now washed away). Trend left to top without using the major leftmost flake. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2013 | ||||
9 | ★ The Middle Way
Let Buddha show you the way to enlightenment. From the face of Buddha, straight up. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2013 | ||||
12 | ★ The Right Path
Half metre right of TMW. Tread the path with care, euphoria awaits you at the top. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2013 | ||||
15 | ★ Shoulda, Coulda, Buddha
Start as TRP, immediately step 1m R and delicately slab your way to nirvana, keeping out of the R crack for full value. Shy on pro. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2013 | ||||
11 | Climb the Crack, Stupid
Climb the prominent crack to the top. Can be turned into an epic if you mix up your left and right. FA: John Wentworth, 2010 | ||||
17 | ★ Enter the Zone
Absorbing climbing with lovely moves and a surprise finish. Straight up faint crack to ledge. FA: Peter Lynch, John Wentworth & Brent Johnson, 2011 | ||||
17 | ★ Water Dragon
Committed approach, up faint crack then step right and follow weakness. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2010 | ||||
17 | ★★ Smashing!
The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor, 2006 | ||||
19 | ★★ Sedition
Step across the water onto the face and place gear as you see fit (Don’t comment on the government). Trend left (of the political landscape) over the bulging (capitalists pigs) and place cams in the sickle shaped crack. Undermine the status quo by using underhanded techniques in the crack, then head straight up the middle of the road on good crimpers. Easier than it looks, easier said than done. FA: John Wentworth, 1983 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Yosemite Corner
2m R of Sedition. Delicately bridge through thought provoking corner up to steep top wall. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2009 | ||||
14 | Yosemite Crack
Flake line just R of YC. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2009 | ||||
12 | RP Special
Face and book corner just R of Yosemite Corner. (RPs Optional). FA: John Wentworth, 2009 | 6m | |||
18 | ★★ Nose of El Capitan
Boulder moves up the steep arete, 2m R of Yosemite Corner. FA: Alexander Wootten, 2010 | 6m | |||
17 | All-dis and dat
First climb on Brave New Wall. Flake system at left side of wall. Good value for a short route. FA: Peter Lynch & Paul Thompson, 2011 | 6m | |||
18 | Epsilon Dreaming
Main central crack up to pocket and finish. FA: Alex Wootten, John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2010 | ||||
18 | Dystopocket
1m R of ED. R leaning flakes to trick top out, steeper than it looks. FA: John Wentworth, 2010 | 6m | |||
21 | Aiming High (Pete's Boulder Problem)
1m R of D, 1m L of SP. Technical, steep, a great climb. Can be done as a solo. Shy on gear, could place a good cam up high after the difficulties. Bring a crash mat! FA: Peter Lynch, 1 Nov. 2015 | 6m | |||
15 | ★ Surprise Package
Up undercut flake corner to ledge then continue to top through two roofs. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2009 | 12m | |||
17 | ★ The Trickster
Face 1.5m R of SP. Pumpy face climbing to ledge, continue through double overhangs with a tricky finish. FA: Peter Lynch, John Wentworth & Brent Johnson, 2011 | 12m | |||
15 | Not Moonlight Buttress
Little L facing corner in centre of slab. Bouldery start then up delicate corner to thought provoking finish. Shy on pro. FA: John Wentworth, Brent Johnson & Peter Lynch, 2011 | 12m | |||
14 | Crimpy Corner
1/2 m R of NMB. Boulder start to jugs and finish up left facing scoop to ledge and then up top wall on R. Very little pro. FA: Peter Lynch, 2012 | 12m | |||
16 | Underclung
2m R of NMB up to L undercling and up. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012 | ||||
17 | Underclinging to a Belief
Delicate start to underclings and up. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2012 | ||||
15 | Harmonious Discord
Face and using L arete, 1m L of P. FA: Peter Lynch, John Wentworth & Isabelle Wentworth, 15 Sept 2017 | ||||
15 | Postosterone
Shallow corner (boulder pictured has since been swept away) 1m L of HH. FA: Isabelle Wentworth, 15 Sept 2017 | ||||
11 | ★ Hidey Holes
2m L of BN. Straight up past major pocket, finding excellent slots on the way. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2012 | ||||
11 | ★★ Beez Neez
South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection. FA: Alan Bainbridge & Mal MacDonnell, 2005 | 10m | |||
17 | ★★ Arete of Regret
Up arete at start of PC. Fun arete with sensational no hands rest for those with long femurs. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012 | ||||
V3 | Pub Crawl
Start at the white splattered rock a few metres right of '6 beers before midnight' and traverse left for about 17m. Follow the lowest dyke for the first half, under-cling through the small overlap on the corner (crux), and stay on low holds well below the dyke for the second section, finishing at the incut corner. | ||||
15 | Retro Man
A few moves of interest just 1m R of AoR. Pulled out the old spoogie boreal aces for this one. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012 | ||||
17 | ★ Jug City
1m R of RM, another Bittangabee delight. Up the jugs. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2012 | ||||
11 | ★ 6 Beers Before Midnight
Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start. FA: Mal MacDonnell & Alan Bainbridge, 2005 | ||||
8 | ★★ Oi kids, come down from there!
Onto the boulder, step left onto the face and head up the left side. Step up left onto the ledge and finish up the obvious corner. FA: Mark Hoggard, 2 Août 2021 | ||||
17 | Flake Climb
Flake at left end. Up steep flake, finishing up slab. FA: John Wentworth, 2009 | ||||
18 | Mark's Not Dead, He's Just Pining For The Fjords
Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête. FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005 | ||||
22 | ★★★ Orange Ruffy
Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious. FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005 | ||||
Slimehead
Continues up and right along the diagonal features after Orange Ruffy heads straight up. FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 28 Sept 2019 | |||||
20 | ★ P3
2m R of Orange Ruffy. Up to letterbox slot, then line of least resistance to top, finishing left of major capstone. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2016 | ||||
22 | ★★★ First Coming
Unbeknownst to most people, God had a seaside holiday before heading off to create Mt Arapiles. This climb is a testament to his creative abilities. The gem of Bittangabee, steep, strenuous, and sensational. 1m R of P3. Up right-leaning diagonal, straight up to finish on splitter crack on capstones. FA: Peter Lynch, 2012 | ||||
17 | Old Baldy
Prominent blank arete just R of major crack. (no pro). FA: John Wentworth, 2012 | ||||
13 | Feeble Old Man
1m R of OB, up corner weakness to the top. No pro. FA: John Wentworth, 2012 | ||||
15 | ★ Boy Flake
Start below the small, right-facing flake. Up this, pass flared horizontal (small cam), and up to ledge. Couple of runners in the back, then make the big step up and left (unprotected) and cruise to finish. FA: William Wentworth, 2010 | ||||
10 | Jump Start
Major crack. Jump puddle to start up crack/ramp, to ledge and then up through easiest route to finish. FA: Paul Thompson & Kobi Thompson, 2010 | ||||
17 | I Do Like to Be Beside the Seaside
Blank looking face just R of JS. Delicate moves to thought provoking finish. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2012 | ||||
19 | Thar She Blows
Start 1m R of BTSS at right-leaning flakes. Energetic face climbing up to big ledge. Set a belay and look for whales blowing (also great ledge for a bivvy if you want to stay the night). Pitch 2, straight up big pockets to top. The original belay boulder has been swept away, so belayer may require waders. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012 | 12m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Southern Rights
Absorbing face climbing on right leaning flakes, 1m R of TSB. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Zymurgy
Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant. FA: Dave Cameron, 2005 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Snake Venom
Starting as for Zymurgy, climb the direct thinner line via slots and crimps to the right of the previous line and staying right of the prominent pale disc. Finish by topping out the boulder problem off the shelf and directly above. FA: 27 Sept 2023 | ||||
20 | ★★★ Dead Crab's Lament
Up obvious thin cracks and pockets, 2m R of Zymurgy. Up tricky crack to large pocket and up. Originally graded 15. FA: John Wentworth, 2009 | ||||
19 | ★★ Paragon
Face R of DCL. Tricky, committing start leads to easier climbing to the top. Stepping out right certainly lowers the grade. FA: Andrew Myers & Peter Lynch, 2009 |