Affichant les 23 voies total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V4 | Warm Up Traverse
Start below 'It's a Boy' and traverse left in the high break below the roof until you reach the jugs where you can throw in a few pull ups, if you are so inclined. | ||||
V4 | Warm Up Traverse Reverse
The traverse from the pull up jug on the left to the ledge below It's a Boy | ||||
24 | ★★ It's A Boy
Last 2 bolts now replaced by Remi.... Has a glorious finish... if you can beat the pump. Harder than Heavy Petting. FA: @robwall FFA: remi, 1997 | 20m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Heavy Petting
The juggy classic of the cliff. Medium cams can protect moves below the first bolt. The reported 25 grade for this climb may be a mistake in the guide book. Probably more like a 23, although some hardmen have outrageously suggested 22! FFA: G Chipper, 1995 | 18m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★★ Root Canal
Perhaps the proudest line on the cliff. Super steep. FFA: G Chipper, 1995 | 17m | |||
27 | ★★★ Intimacy
An entertaining roof in the similar vein of the two neighboring routes (Root Canal & Glass Slipper). Steep start to ledge then up left to roof and finish just left of the whale tail. No kidding: stick clip the first bolt. Use long quickdraw for the fifth bolt. Équip.: Remi Vignals FFA: Remi Vignals, 15 Sept 2015 | 17m | |||
27 | ★★★ Glass Slipper
Spectacular ceiling. A couple of bouldery moves. Équip.: D Toulalan, 1994 FFA: Chris Jones, 1995 | 15m | |||
27 | ★★★ Glass Phobia (Link up)
First crux of Glass Slipper then traverse to finish up Homophobia / Flash Gordon. Other options available (Homophobia Original, She Magic...) | ||||
28 | ★★★ Homophobia (Original)
Good strong stuff. Possibly harder than Glass Slipper. Strictly speaking, the route finishes by traversing under the roof and up the arete to the anchors. It is believed that at least one hold has broken off since the first ascent, making it nearly impossible to complete the route as it was done originally. The 'Flash Gordon' finish is more common but the moves have since been done again. | 15m | |||
27 | ★★★ Homophobia / Flash Gordon
The common finish to 'Homophobia (Original)' is now typically done by going directly to the Bustin' Down the Door anchors (also known as Flash Gordon) FFA: A Wood, 1995 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★★ Bustin' Down The Door | 15m, 4 | |||
27 | ★★★ Bustin' Direct
Eliminate. Follow Bustin' up to 3rd QD, where it "busts" out right. Stay left of the thin crack and go straight to the 4th QD via crimps then big moves on slopers. Finish as normal. | 12m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★★ Bustin' Out the Gear
Bustin' on gear | ||||
25 | ★★★ She Magic
Straightforward jugging to a do or fly finish. FFA: S Richardson, 1995 | 15m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ She Magic Warm-Up
Climb She Magic to the last QD, stopping on the jug before the top crux. A common warm up, because you know... sometimes it's nice to tick something. | ||||
25 | ★★★ She Tradgic
She Magic on trad | 15m | |||
25 | ★★★ Super Funky
Proper hard final section. Sandbag, but great. 'The Belay Challenge' - Just above head height when you stand on the big boulder below the route is an obvious ledge. A good dynamic belay will land the lighter belayers onto the ledge (Standing). Goes at 'Belay V8'. FFA: Chris Jones, 1995 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★★ Look at The Bears
Linkup. FFA: A Wood, 1995 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Fuck The Law
RB's on right side of wall. Grade 22 to final bolt and tough moves going left on non-holds. FFA: S Richardson, 1995 | 15m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ The Law is Fucked
The arete at the far right of the promenade. Be wary, as some of the falls aren't the cleanest. | 10m, 4 | |||
20 R | ★ Mitch Has Micronuts
Line straight up the middle of the boulder. Use your choice of protection in the holes at the bottom. Make it bomber, If you fall from the crux, you will bounce off the inclined rock and this piece will stop you from launching towards the river. After crux traverse left to easy, flowy awesome climbing with small gear. 2 Carrot bolts at the top. Will need plates. FA: Mitch Woodward, 2017 | 10m | |||
V5 | ★★ Highball V5
Up the edge of the boulder. Can be top roped as there are 2 carrots and a redirect. Seriously bold. | ||||
26 | ★★★ Kalbarri Gold
Famous, epic roof crack located opposite the Promenade, you can't miss it. Footage @ 10mins 30sec https://youtu.be/MSN7b6HeLA4 FFA: M Matheson, 1996 | 25m |
Affichant les 23 voies total.