A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adrian Kladnig Richard Curtis John Lattanzio Bec Cowell Brendan Heywood Ben Vincent Vanessa Wills Paul Frothy Thomson Steve Moore Ben Hanley
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
The Governor
113 in Crag
- 1.1. North Face 86 routes in Crag
- 1.2. The Walker Spur 11 routes in Area
- 1.3. Cream Buttress 10 routes in Crag
- 1.4. Motor City 5 routes in Area
- 1.5. Nirvana Buttress 1 routes in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Governor
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -30.282201, 150.146282
- Endorsed by:
- Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, Scott Camps, Richard Curtis, Taib Ezekiel, Angus Farquhar, Adrian Kladnig, Vanessa Wills (some of whom would have preferred a stronger position).
- Existing trad climbs and quality trad crags should be retained in their original condition. That means no retro-bolting and no bolting that impacts on the integrity, or ‘hanging space’, of natural lines. Good trad cliffs, and trad climbs in general, are limited resources which need protection.
- Retro-bolting on established climbs should be opposed and rectified.
- National parks exist to protect natural areas. Therefore the environmental impact of climbing should be minimised in national parks. Trad climbing is generally low in impact, consistent with other activities like remote bushwalking. The Plan of Management for Mt Kaputar National Park (2006, section 4.3.9, page 37 – emphasis added) states: The NPWS will provide information and guidance on Service policy to visitors wishing to undertake adventure activities in the park, and will require minimal impact use of the park for these activities.
- Excessive and unsightly bolting or other climbing impacts in national parks risk attracting the disapproval of other park visitors and park authorities, and may threaten ongoing climber access to these areas.
description
At 1410m elevation, the Governor is a majestic pinnacle. Located just to the side of the main road rising to 'Mt Lindesay' - the climbing is north facing and up to 90 or so metres in length. It was during the first ascent of Air Raid in 1977 that rangers ordered climbers Richard Curtis and Brian Birchall down off that climb, by helicopter, that led to the climbing ban of 2 years being lifted.
The 1983 Rock guide to Kaputar by Mark Colyvan said that the Governor offers “some of the best lines in Australia”. It is also one of the best multi-pitch trad crags in Australia, with a strong tradition of ‘ground-up’ ascents, removable protection and minimal bolting. The Governor is an excellent crag for applying such an ethic.
Unfortunately around 2015-2017 someone began retro-bolting some of these classic lines and bolting within reach of others. A bunch of concerned climbers got together and removed these bolts.
The activist group want to promote a future for The Governor as a trad-only cliff (i.e. no sport-routes, no retro-bolting, new bolts only where essential on new routes). This ethic had been assumed but should have been asserted more vigorously years ago because the natural lines are so close together (see the group’s statement in the Ethic section below).
In this way the existing climbs can be protected so they can continue to offer fantastic trad experiences, while opportunities for new trad climbs are also protected. Climbers on The Governor are asked to respect and support this ethic.
Sport climbs are available on other crags at Mt Kaputar. The Governor should remain special.
Limitations de l'accès
The road is suitable for 2WD vehicles but is steep, narrow and winding with part of the road gravel.
The area is a biodiversity hotspot with much endangered or rare flora and fauna. Do not alter habitat. The “ snow daisy” Coronidium kaputaricum grows in cracks at altitude and must not be damaged. Kaputar rock skink: https://theconversation.com/a-few-months-ago-science-gave-this-rare-lizard-a-name-and-it-may-already-be-headed-for-extinction-140356 And the famous pink slug.
éthique
Retro-bolting at Kaputar
Since the first climbs were done in Mount Kaputar National Park in the 1960s, it has been a predominantly trad climbing area. Until about ten years ago, most of the hundreds of established climbs were protected entirely with natural gear. A small number of climbs had one or two bolts, and a few independent, fully bolt-protected climbs had been done. The 80m north face of The Governor has been regarded as one of the premier trad crags in Australia, with more than 80 multi-pitch climbs, many of very high quality, mostly established in ground-up style and with only a few bolts in total (and often at the technical limit of the climbers).
Since about 2005, more bolt-protected climbs have been established, particularly on Euglah and then Mt Lindesay, then The Governor. At first these were independent of established trad climbs and on otherwise unprotectable rock. But over the past few years other climbers have been retro-bolting over the top of existing climbs. This practice began on Mt Lindesay and then extended onto the Governor.
On Lindesay, about 200 bolts were placed, most of which retro-bolt or impact on at least 20 existing climbs. Bolts were very close together and some bolted lines were only one metre apart. Many bolts were placed beside good placements for removable gear. Numerous chains were also installed at the cliff-top, and the climb grades were painted in large letters along the bottom. Some of the bolts were found to be dangerous – either glue-ins on which the glue never cured (and which pulled out by hand) or dangerously short ‘studs’.
These were not assessable without removing them. Some of the retro-bolted Lindesay climbs are on the bold side, while others are very well protected with natural gear.
Kaputar - Short stud Lindesay copy.JPG
Kaputar - Uncured glues Lindesay Dec17.jpg
On The Governor, at least 60 bolts were been placed which either retro-bolt existing climbs, or squeeze up very close to them. Natural lines on The Governor’s columnar structure tend be only a couple of metres apart, so any new bolted climbs will impact on adjacent trad routes. Eight climbs have been impacted, including the popular moderate classic Clandestiny, and it's start that gives access to five other climbs. Additional chain anchors have been installed at the cliff-top. Some of the new Governor bolts have also been found to be dangerous, including a chain anchor with un-cured glue.
Kaputar - Retro-bolted trad line Governor.jpg
The retro-bolting on both Mt Lindesay and The Governor was visually intrusive, using large stainless ring bolts or shiny stainless brackets.
The people who have done this retro-bolting are not known to have consulted with first ascensionists, other Kaputar climbers or NPWS. Some first ascensionists and other climbers are angry.
Action
A number of climbers who love the special qualities of Kaputar climbing became very concerned about this trend and joined together to take action. The objectives are to restore The Governor to a premier trad-only crag (i.e. no sport routes), and to remove impacts on pre-existing routes on Mt Lindesay (retro-bolting etc). Most of the offending new bolts have now been removed and patched on both cliffs and the remainder will be removed shortly. Painted grades have been cleaned off. This has taken lot of work, time and expense by a bunch of people. If any of the bolts removed from these climbs are replaced, they will also be removed. Any new retro-bolting will also be removed.
Why have we taken this action?
Because we believe the following:
Trad climbing at Kaputar
Trad climbing at Kaputar requires judgment and skill. Important skills include route-finding, down-climbing (when necessary) and finding and using natural gear placements - which are often small wires or cams/nuts in unexpected places. Kaputar is a good place to learn and apply these skills because it offers trad climbs at a wide range of grades.
Protection is often very good but not always obvious from below. Poor protection is usually mentioned in route descriptions, and/or allowed for in the grading (i.e. increased grade for poor protection). Bold routes on Mt Lindesay can be easily top-roped. Route descriptions on thecrag.com will be amended where necessary to assist safe climbing on climbs that were previously retro-bolted. But climbers should always be wary of attempting trad climbs that are close to the limit of their ability.
1.1. North Face
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade traditionnelle
Lat / Long: -30.282573, 150.143052
description
To access base walk down gully on right just off walking track after the bottom of the stairs. Alternatively rap in above Iconoclast (double ropes needed, probably for both rappels). Rebelay on ledge 20m down or on DRBB about 40m down.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Crystalline Shoeshine
Novel Start: An alcove with recrystallised nodular rock where a crack should perhaps be. FA: Joe Friend (Solo), 1977 | 16 | 28m | |||||
2 |
Bolted route to left
Up friable rock trending left to corner and onto arete then cracks and blocks to anchor on ledge | 20 | 15m, 8 | |||||
3 |
★★ Bolted route to right
Immediately left of 'Patient Scruff'. Bolts through short roof to anchor on ledge | 21 | 15m | |||||
4 |
Patient Scruff
The first good direct crackline. Start: About 10m right of 'Crystalline Shoeshine'. Marked. FA: Rod Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1975 | 16 | 30m | |||||
5 |
One for the Road
A nice warm up for the hard men. Start: 10m right of 'Patient Scruff', the middle of three lines through the overhang.
FA: Tobon Sorrensen & John Allen, 1979 | 24 | 30m, 2 | |||||
6 |
Evil Times
Start: Star as for 'Acid Test'
FA: Ian Brown & Paul Colyvan, 1982 | 20 | 65m, 2 | |||||
7 |
Scavenger
Mostly good 18 except for two hard bits. Takes the line up the buttress between 'Evil Times' and 'Acid Test'. Start: As for 'Acid Test'.
FA: Ian Brown & Chris Newman, 1982 | 20 | 70m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★ Acid Test
The easiest break through the overhanging territory. Start: 7m right of 'One for the Road'.
FA: Kevin Lindorf & Richard Curtis, 1982 | 20 | 65m, 2 | |||||
9 |
Acid Test Variant
Start: As for 'Acid Test'.
FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982 | 20 | 65m, 3 | |||||
10 |
Forbidden Delights
FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982 | 20 | 88m, 3 | |||||
11 |
★★ Tales of Brave Ulysses
A superb climb that takes a rising traverse line from 'Acid Test' to about The Promised Land including a daunting traverse of the main roofs. Exposed, Sustained and spectacular. Start: As for 'Acid Test'
FA: Chris Dale & Ian Brown (varied leads), 1983 | 23 R | 200m, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ The Real McCoy
Start: As for 'Clandestiny'.
FA: Kevin Lindorf & Richard Curtis. alt, 1982 | 18 | 85m, 3 | |||||
13 |
Danse Macabre
Quite pleasant. Start: As for 'Clandestiny'.
FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvenet, 1982 | 17 | 65m, 2 | |||||
14 | Unknown Bolted Thing (removed) | 50m | ||||||
15 |
★★ Twilight Time
A reasonable climb with a sustained crux. Start: As for 'Clandestiny'.
FA: L Zuiderduin & Andrew Penney, 1978 | 17 | 72m, 3 | |||||
16 |
Mental Cruelty
FA: Justin Gouvernet & Ian Brown, 1982 | 19 | 79m, 3 | |||||
17 |
★★ Cryptic
Good value. Start: As for 'Clandestiny'.
FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Bayne & Greg Pritchard, 1981 | 18 | 82m, 3 | |||||
18 |
★★ Clandestiny
Start: 4m left of Sago Entree. In the printed guides all the lines having the Clandestiny start are described as having scant protection on the traverse.
FA: Joe Friend, John Zuiderduin & Matt Zuiderduin., 1978 | 16 R | 72m, 3, 3 | |||||
19 | Unknown (removed) | 17 | 50m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
★★★ Sago Entrée
The proud line, first completed route on the cliff. Start: 25-30m right of 'Patient Scruff' below a dominating crack that splits and goes though a prow. Marked.
FA: Joe Friend & Trevor Gynther (alt), 1973 FFA: Jim Grelis & Richard Curtis (alt), 1976 | 19 | 75m, 3 | |||||
21 |
★★★ Iconoclast
Start as for Sago Entree.
FA: Richard Curtis (p2 & 3) Brian Birchall (p1), 1976 FFA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bain (alt), 1981 | 20 | 80m, 3 | |||||
22 |
★★ A Crying Shame
Not a very indepentent line. A wonderful first half with a contrived finish-probably better to finish up the crux of 'Iconoclast'. The climb follows the eye-catching crack on the right wall of 'Iconoclast', as well as it may. Start: As for 'Spook'.
FA: Ian Brown, Warwick Payten & Chris Newman, 1982 | 20 M1 | 80m, 3 | |||||
23 |
★★ Spook
"It had to go" Start: 5m right of 'Iconoclast' and left of a triangular overhang.
FA: 1.2.Richard Curtis & 3. Brian Birchall, 1979 | 19 | 72m, 3 | |||||
24 |
★ Spook Direct
Start: Directly below the low overhang that 'Spook' avoids.
FA: Kevin Lindorf & Richard Curtis (var), 1982 | 20 | 77m, 3 | |||||
25 |
★★ Poltergeist
Start: The corner 2m right of 'Spook'. Marked. Up corner to roof then step right to bolt. Through overlap and up black seam on thin face moves. Old chains at 50 metres. FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1987 | 22 | 48m, 1 | |||||
26 |
★★ Gun Control
Protection on the crux adequate but difficult to place. Start: Just left of 'White Heat'
FA: Richard Curtis & Richard Morris. var | 22 | 80m, 3 | |||||
27 |
Arbitrage by a Prestressed Concrete Chicken
Get up close and personal with the roofs. As you climb directly underneath them and traverse into the final moves of the great barrier roof. Start: Up pillar as for 'Gun Control'
FFA: Matt Walpole & Dave Biggs | 22 | 80m, 3 | |||||
28 |
★★ White Heat
A classic roof problem. Start: Marked. 9m right of 'Spook', below extreme left end of main overhangs
FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen, 1979 | 24 | 77m, 2 | |||||
29 |
★★ Don't Eat the Daisies
Start: 3m right of 'White Heat'.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Richard Curtis. alt, 1980 | 19 | 80m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
30 |
★★ Double Trouble
A fine crackline. Start: Below two tiered roof, about 5m right of 'White Heat'.
FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen (alt), 1979 | 23 | 70m, 2 | |||||
31 |
★★ Sky Pilot
The big line that weaves through the main roofs at their left hand end. Start: About 3m right of 'Double Trouble'.
FA: Joe Friend (unseconded), 1977 | 20 | 75m, 3 | |||||
32 |
★★★ Blood on the Moon
Takes a short, pronounced, orange V cleft through the first band of overhangs to the right of 'Skypilot'. The first pitch was led with help from tension on the rope but seconded free. Tension traverse on pitch 1 eliminated, grade remains at 21. Start: About 10m from the left hand end of the shattered wall.
FA: J Nelson & R Curtis. alt, 1979 | 21 | 75m, 3 | |||||
33 |
★★ The Great Barrier Roof
A sustained penetration of huge overhangs. Start: As for 'Blood on the Moon'.
FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen (alt), 1979 | 23 | 67m, 2 | |||||
34 |
★★★ Live Bait
Start: At the seam 8m left of 'The Millionaire Touch'.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1987 | 23 | 80m, 3 | |||||
35 |
★★ The Millionaire Touch
Takes the central roofs at their narrowest point. Start 15m left of 'Soul on Ice', just right of a large boulder.
FA: K Lindorff, 1, 2, 3. P Bain & R Curtis, 1982 | 24 | 100m, 3 | |||||
36 |
★ Soul on Ice
Start: Below right hand end of main overhangs, left of 'The Promised Land'.
FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979 | 22 | 80m, 2 | |||||
37 |
★ The Promised Land
Takes the soaring line 5m left of 'Pomp and Circumstance'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff (1) Richard Curtis (2), 1982 | 22 | 96m, 2 | |||||
38 |
★★ Cheek to Cheek
FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1983 | 23 | 85m, 3 | |||||
39 |
★ Pomp and Circumstance
Start: At the V-groove and wall 8m left of 'The Resistance Principle'.
FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1982 | 22 | 90m, 3 | |||||
40 |
Pomp and Circumstance Variant Start
Start: 3m right of tree halfway between 'Pomp and Circumstance' and 'The Resistance Principle'.
FA: Ian Brown & Paul Colyvan, 1982 | 22 | 85m, 3 | |||||
41 |
The Resistance Principle
Start: 9m left of 'Bum Leeper'.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1982 | 21 | 87m, 2 | |||||
42 |
★★ Sang Froid
Start: 3m right of 'The Resistance Principle'.
FA: Kevin Lindorf & Richard Curtis (Var), 1982 | 21 | 92m | |||||
43 |
★★ The Governor
This climb now has more pitches added and is included as the first pitch of 'A Wolf in the Heart'. See the entry for 'Bum Leeper' for full explanation. FA: Richard Curtis, Jim Nelson & Brian Birchal, 1979 | 18 | 40m | |||||
44 |
★★★ A Wolf in the Heart
This replaces Bum Leeper, the crux pitch of which was destroyed by falling rock. For full details of the rationale for the changes see the description for 'Bum Leeper'. Start: 2m left of the original start of 'Bum Leeper'.
FA: Richard Curtis (2), Ben Christian (1 & 3), 2000 | 23 | 93m, 3 | |||||
45 |
★★ Bum Leeper
As noted in the Rock Magazine guidebook, a huge block had fallen off the climb since their description was written. During Easter 2000 Richard Curtis and Ben Christian visited the Governor and inspected the climb. The huge block described was in fact the whole of the overhang at the top of pitch 2. To climb the beginning of pitch 2 originally entailed negotiating a very large but thin flake which leaned against the right wall of the corner covering a large part of its bottom half. The falling block had completely demolished this and completely changed the nature and difficulty of the pitch. A large amount of shattered rock lodged in the corner and on the ledge below was removed and the route was climbed at grade 23. (Probably technically 22 but sustained enough to give it 23 taking into account fairly sparse and difficult to place protection). The new pitch was accessed via 'The Governor' (18) which ends near the start of pitch 2 of Bum Leeper. As pitch 2 was the crux of that climb and now bears no relation to its original state, Curtis recorded a new climb called A Wolf in the Heart which is a combination of 'the Governor' (an excellent pitch at grade 18) but with no finish, and pitch 2 of what had been Bum Leeper. FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1975 FFA: Richard Curtis & Jim Nelson, 1979 | 21 | 93m, 3 | |||||
46 |
Opening Farewell
FA: Ian Brown & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 20 | 82m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
47 |
★★ Tigger (is Unbounced)
Alerte Roche: Loose block on p2 of Guided Missile, above p1 of Tigger Start: At an indefinite corner below an overhang with reddish rock on the face left and below. Initialled.
FA: Richard Curtis & Jim Grellis. alt., 1976 | 20 | 93m, 3 | |||||
48 |
Search Pattern
FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1983 | 19 | 80m, 3 | |||||
49 |
★★ Guided Missile
Alerte Roche: Loose block on pitch 2 Start: Below handjamb crack right of 'Tigger (is Unbounced)'.
FA: Richard Curtis & Jim Grellis (alt), 1976 | 17 | 80m, 3 | |||||
50 |
★★ Guided Missile right hand variant
FA: 1976 | 17 | 80m, 3 | |||||
51 |
Pastures of Plenty
FA: Mark Colyvan, Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982 | 20 | 87m, 2 | |||||
52 |
★★ Borrowed Time
The main corner to the right of 'Guided Missile'. Initialled.
FA: Brian Birchall & Richard Curtis. (alt), 1977 | 20 | 90m, 3 | |||||
53 |
★ Borrowed Time Direct
Start: As for 'Borrowed Time'.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1985 | 22 | 80m, 2 | |||||
54 |
Straight Talking
Start: 1m right of 'Borrowed Time'.
FA: Joe Friend, A Queenslander & Richard Thomas, 1978 | 18 | 80m, 2 | |||||
55 |
★ Against the Grain
The thin crack-line which weaves up the the right wall of 'Borrowed Time' corner. Start: 5m right of 'Borrowed Time'.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 23 | 80m, 2 | |||||
56 |
★ Pilla Talk
A scary lead even though pro is adequate.
FA: Paul Bayne & Mark Colyvan, 1985 | 21 | 80m, 3, 1 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
57 |
★ Horrendous Episode / Brian's Lovely Day
Take no notice of the name which came about because most of Brian's runners fell out on the last (quality) pitch. Start may still be initialed.
FA: Brian Birchall & Richard Curtis (alt), 1977 | 18 | 93m, 3 | |||||
58 |
★★ Pooh Invents a New Game
FA: Richard Curtis & Jim Grelis. (alt), 1976 | 18 | 93m, 3 | |||||
59 |
★ Pooh, Red Disc Connection
A short downward traverse which connects 'Pooh Invents a New Game' to 'Red Disc'. It provides a grade 16 route for moderate grade climbers up a high part of the cliff.
FA: Richard Curtis & Richard Morris, 1981 | 16 | 110m, 3 | |||||
60 |
★★ The Far Side
An alternative second pitch for 'Red Disc' at a grade which better matches that of pitch one.
FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1997 | 21 | 93m, 2 | |||||
61 |
★ Red Disc
Start: Takes the righthand branch of 'Pooh Corner'.
FA: Jim Grelis & Richard Curtis (alt), 1976 | 19 | 93m, 2 | |||||
62 |
★ Beasley Street
"Spend a year in a couple of hours on the edge of Beasley Street" John Cooper Clarke Start: 3m left of 'Micawber'.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1981 FFA: Mark Colyvan & Anthony Brennan, 1986 | 22 | 98m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
63 |
★★★ Micawber
"Something is sure to turn up" - Mr Micawber Start: The left of two lines behind a tree. Initialled.
FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall (alt), 1977 | 21 | 77m, 2 | |||||
64 |
★ Smike
Large tooth of rock visible above makes this one of the more obvious starts.
FA: R. Curtis(1) J. Nelson(2) B Birchall, 1979 | 19 | 83m, 2 | |||||
65 |
Smike Variant
FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982 | 20 | 85m, 3 | |||||
66 |
Tory Crimes
"We mean it man" Start: As for 'Air Raid'.
FA: Joe Strummer, Bernard Wietlisbach & Johnny Rotten, 1978 | 20 | 80m, 2 | |||||
67 |
★ Pure and Simple
Start: As for Air Raid.
FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall (alt), 1979 | 19 | 70m, 2 | |||||
68 |
★★ Air Raid
The route which brought about the end of the climbing ban on the cliff. Start: The major righthand corner after 'Pure and Simple'. Initialled. Double ropes advised.
FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1977 | 20 | 80m, 3 | |||||
69 |
★★ High Fidelity
Start: 4m right of 'Air Raid'.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1982 | 21 | 82m, 2 | |||||
70 |
★★★ The Recidivist Direct
"I keep slipping back." Start: Ten metres right of 'Air Raid' Old marking may still be visible (R)
FA: Richard Curtis (2) Richard Morris (1 & 3), 1981 | 21 | 90m, 3 | |||||
71 |
Pole Vault
A daunting bypass of the main right hand roofs. Start: In alcove 4m right of 'The Recidivist Direct'.
FA: Joe Friend & Leon Lerer, 1977 | 18 | 85m, 3 | |||||
72 |
Acid Drop
Start as for Sunset Strip below a 12m shallow chimney initialled SS. Pitches 1 and 2. Takes a series of small grooves and ribs to the left of Sunset Strip. Belay halfway where adequate pro can be found. Middle of climb is trickiest. FA: R. Curtis C. Southwell L. Kavalieris, 1977 | 18 | 60m, 2 | |||||
73 |
★★ Sunset Strip
Start: Marked
FA: Trevor Gynther & Joe Friend, 1973 | 17 | 60m, 2 | |||||
74 |
★ Shake, Rattle and Roll
Start: About 12m right of 'Sunset Strip'.
FA: Brian Birchall & Richard Curtis (alt), 1979 | 18 | 53m, 2 | |||||
75 |
★ Bottled Neat
Start at a crack-line just before the gully at the right-hand end of the main face. Initialed. Twin ropes are useful to avoid rope drag around the roof.
FA: Bob Rugo (USA). Richard Curtis (alt), 1976 | 16 | 53m, 2 | |||||
76 |
Dutch Courage
Start: 3m left of 'Delayed Reaction'. Up through bulge then large square roof. Take twin cracks on right side of roof and up. FA: Anthony Brennan & Warwick Payten, 1985 | 19 | 45m | |||||
77 |
★ Delayed Reaction
Start: The corner a few metres left of 'Abbey Road'. Up. FA: Paul Colyvan & Justin Gouvernet, 1982 | 15 | 40m | |||||
78 |
Abbey Road
Start: 2m left of 'The Crescent'.
FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1977 | 12 | 45m, 2 | |||||
79 |
★ The Crescent
A classic chimney. Start: Marked.
FA: R Rugo, S Greathead & J Kelman, 1976 | 13 | 45m, 2 | |||||
80 |
Ambleside
Start: At a small overhang 8m right of 'The Crescent'.
FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1977 | 16 | 45m, 2 | |||||
81 |
Ambleside Variant
Cleaner than 'Ambleside' as it avoids the crack full of vines.
FA: Anthony Brennan & M Cahill, 1986 | 17 | 45m, 2 | |||||
82 |
Baked Beans
Start: 12m right of 'The Crescent'.
FA: Geoff Francis, Richard Thomas & Rod McClymont, 1978 | 15 | 45m, 2 | |||||
83 |
Spotted Lady Bug
Start: As for 'Baked Beans'. Through overhang and up corner as for 'Baked Beans', then right around arete into thin right slanting crack. Up this moving left onto wall to avoid vegetation and dirt. FA: Warwick Payten & Anthony Brennan, 1985 | 20 | 45m | |||||
84 |
★ West Ridge
FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1977 | 12 | 45m, 2 | |||||
85 |
Frozen Fish Fingers
Start: On the SE face about 60m left of 'Learner's Permit' near two gum trees with holes burnt in them.
FA: John Zuiderduin, Lindsay Jones & Mat Zuiderduin, 1979 | 15 | 83m, 3 | |||||
86 |
Learner's Permit
Start: About 30m left of the second ladder on the SE face. Follows a black streak.
FA: Matt Zuiderduin, Barry Ryan & Mick Ryan, 1978 | 10 | 50m, 2 |
1.2. The Walker Spur
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -30.283414, 150.145073
description
South west facing buttress up to 30 m high just before you get to main descent gully for governor. Very little trafficked, anchor set up is difficult and a 50 m static can be helpful. Gets afternoon sun. Beware of loose rock, and don't damage the daisies.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Iron Contract
Start Marked below line to right of cave. Follow crack left, then right until it runs out. Head right around arete into pocket continuing right to crack and up. FA: Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharp, 1981 | 20 | 45m | |||
2 |
★ Turning Japanese
Climb the grove with the smooth bowl at half height. FA: Chris Dale & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 21 | 30m | |||
3 |
Stiff Upper Lip
Interesting start through middle of overhangs 12m right of Iron Contract to #2 RP and fixed #2 RP higher up. Up line. FA: Chris Dale & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 22 | 30m | |||
4 |
★ Cold Shoulder
Right end of roof 8m right of Stiff Upper Lip. Start Marked. Up blind corner to roof moving right to second roof (tricky pro) then into corner and up. FA: Paul Colyvan & Chris Newman, 1983 FFA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 23 | 23m | |||
5 |
Socially Excited
Start Marked to right of Cold Shoulder. Up crack corner to second bulge. Hard layaway over bulge (poor pro), up crack to mantle and dyno. FA: Paul Colyvan & Simon Gay, 1983 | 22 | 25m | |||
6 |
★ Verities and Balderdash
Left of Grinding Halt at large corner behind gum tree. Up to roof, traverse left then through overhang and up crack. FA: Anthony Brennan, 1985 | 21 | 20m | |||
7 |
★ Verities and Balderdash Direct Start
Thin crack 2m left of original start direct to move through overhang. FA: Warwick Payten, 1985 | 21 | 5m | |||
8 |
Grinding Halt
8m right of Cold Shoulder. Start Marked. Up right trending crack to ledge, tricky move to crack above and up past BR. FA: Paul Colyvan & Chris Newman, 1983 | 19 | 20m | |||
9 |
Wet Loose Lips
Start Marked. Up crack 3m Right of Grinding Halt to same ledge then small crack corner. FA: Paul Colyvan & Chris Newman, 1983 | 19 | 18m | |||
10 |
★ Slow Motion
Right end of cliff below Walker Spur. Start Marked. Up wall, over bulge to blind corner and up past BR. FA: Paul Colyvan & Echo Jenkins, 1983 | 20 | 20m | |||
11 |
Inside Straight
Crack with tree at half height 1m right of Slow Motion. FA: Paul Colyvan & Simon Gay, 1983 | 16 | 26m |
1.3. Cream Buttress
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade traditionnelle
Lat / Long: -30.282703, 150.144880
résumé
Good for days when you're not feeling like, or don't have time for a climb on the main cliff of The Governor.
description
This buttress is located north-east of the Governor in itself and is reached by going right at the bottom of the Governor descent gully.
approche
Go right at the bottom of the Governor descent gully.
où dormir
Bark Huts camp ground.
historique
First climbed on by Curtis and Grelis. Some easier routes were done on the left end by Joe friend but were not recorded. Also a route done by Jill Kelman and Cheryll Gratehead on one of the first visits by the Armidale crew (possibly also called Double Trouble - not to be confused with the Sorenson/Allen route) is lost in the mists of time. It is probably one of the routes later recorded as a new climb by others.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Cream
Steep and varied; sheltered in bad weather. A classic. The first channel-shaped line as seen on the right from the bottom of the descent gully to the Governor (facing downhill). Initialled. Worth the 2 stars if you don't mind the easy but unprotected start. Easily, but carefully up to below the overhang where good protection can be arranged. Right and up the steep the groove to rest, then through the overhang and up more easily. There are now chains to belay on. FA: Richard Curtis & Jim Grelis, 1976 | 18 | 43m | |||
2 |
Alligator Arete
Somewhere East of Cream. Start below V-Groove, easy-angled wall to spike runner. Traverse left. FA: John Croker & Tony Maymet, 1973 | 8 | 20m | |||
3 |
Lullduts
Up blocks 3m R of Lady Midnight. Broken rock leads to short, clean corner. FA: Justin Gouvernet & Echo Jenkins, 1982 | 14 | 15m | |||
4 |
Lady Midnight
Technical incipient corner 5m R of Minder. Take small wires. FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982 | 17 | 15m | |||
5 |
★ Minder
Bridge up from cairn on terrace at L end of Cream Buttress. FA: Justin Gouvernet, 1982 | 17 | 15m | |||
6 |
Hamsters and Tape
Superb climing at this grade. Steep groove 3m R of Crutchbuster. Bridge in corner to bucket on L wall and up. FA: Paul Colyvan, 1982 | 19 | 15m | |||
7 |
Crutchbuster
Fused corner R of tree, 6m R of Vinegar Stroke. Straight up through bulge at 5m. Crux tricky to protect but quite good climbing. FA: Ian Brown & Paul Colyvan, 1982 | 19 | 15m | |||
8 |
Rare Opportunities
First led with the rope clipped as a runner near the top with the intension of placing a BR. This wasn't done and has since been led from ground up. Up line on wall behind tree, 2m R of Davey. Make sure of #3 RP placement down low. FA: Paul Colyvan & Chris Newman, 1983 | 19 | 20m | |||
9 |
Davey
"A good little pump with ground-fall potential" Up L side of nose just R of VS. Step to right to finish up groove. FA: Ian Brown & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 20 | 15m | |||
10 |
Vinegar Stroke
Undercut, channel-shaped line at left end of cliff. Good climbing through bulge up to easy choss. FA: Paul Colyvan & Ian Brown, 1982 | 18 | 12m |
1.4. Motor City
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Area
approche
Motor City is a line of cliffs between Cream Buttress and West Kaputar Rocks at the same level as Cream Buttress.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Port and Polished
Start on block up and round R from Balanced and Blue-Printed. Up arete and through overhang. Two BRs. FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987 | 21 | 20m | |||
2 |
Balanced and Blue-printed
Approx. 20m R of Twist of the Wrist. A seam leads R to a crack corner. Up wall L of seam (BR), then seam to corner (BR) and crack. FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987 | 22 | 20m | |||
3 |
★★★ Twist of the Wrist
Big Black corner roughly 100m R of Gas it Up. BRs. FA: Paul Colyvan, Steve Moon, Greg Moore, John Smoothy Easter & John Smoothy, 1987 | 24 | 35m | |||
4 |
Duck Dodgers
Crack 1m R of Gas it Up. FA: Giles Bradbury & Al Stephens, 1986 | 21 | 20m | |||
5 |
★★ Gas It Up
L one of two cracks in impressive short wall. Up to BR, Step R, then up on jugs to two BRs. Up (PR) to crack. Up. FA: Paul Colyvan, Giles Bradbury & Al Stephens, 1986 | 22 | 20m |
1.5. Nirvana Buttress
- Summary:
-
1 route in Area
Lat / Long: -30.280828, 150.148733
description
Located between Cream Buttress and West Kaputar Rocks but further round left than Motor City.
approche
Take the track from the Governor car park towards The Governor. Continue for 50 m after the track passes under a fallen tree, (Hope it's still there!), then strike off right through the bush, dropping down on the left side of an obvious rocky bluff. On reaching the bottom of the first level, continue down, trending slightly right to the end of the second level cliff.
historique
Richard Curtis and Richard Morris visited this cliff on 4th April 1986 and put up the only route recorded so far – Our Man in Nirvana, grade 19, 55 m
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Our Man in Nirvana
The first easily accessible corner right of the undercut red section. Start: 2 m right of the bottom of the line.
FA: Richard Curtis & Richard Morris, 1986 | 19 | 55m, 2 |