Aide

Fatman Buttress

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 3
  • Ascensions : 280
  • Aka: Lower Tier

Saison

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Description

A large area consisting of isolated pinnacles, some easier old school trad lines and a couple of good faces, spread out across two tiers. If you like clipping bolts - this is a good area to head for - with The Gully and Mars Wall in close proximity.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Approche

The best approach is now utilising a cairned/taped route, marked from the top of Rightman Buttress (the old route straight down from the zig-zag track high point in Bob's guidebook is overgrown, loose & crap!!). Locate the giant rock cairn, and stay at this level traversing upstream, passing across the head of a large gully.

You can rap from bolts above 'Prow' (bottom right, facing the river) if you can find them, or scramble down to the base of the Upper Tier via the upstream side of the cliffs.

To get to 'Thin Fiend' or 'Crucifix' pinnacles if walking in from the base - clamber through the the slot facing the water (there may be a fixed rope) at the far downstream end of the terrace.

To get to the Lower Tier cliffs - rap from bolts at the base of 'Prow'.

A few more rap accessed bolted lines are located only a stones throw away on the downstream face of The Gully, making this a convenient location if clipping bolts is your thing.

Descente

There are DBB rap anchors located at the top of Prow, Thin Fiend, Crucifix, When The Fat Lady Sings, and Start Running. It is also possible to walk to the base of most climbs via the upstream end of the cliffs. Some fixed ropes may be present to help navigate potentially slippery/exposed terrain.

Éthique hérité de Launceston (Cataract) Gorge

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Tags

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

Accessed either on the downstream end of the buttress by rap or by walking to the upstream end and down the crag via fixed lines. The walking approach involves either a slightly dangerous traverse around a pillar and climbing up a chimney or squeezing through the hole to the base of thin fiend.

The thin bolted pinnacle

FA: Danny Ng

The chimney R of Thin Fiend pinnacle

On the riverside face of the lower pinnacle (out of sight from main areas). 3 FH’s + medium to large cams. Easiest to rap to base of route via the downstream side (passing below Thin Fiend) to locate the DBB. Alternatively, a short 5m rap (veering slightly downstream) is possible from the DBB at the base of The Prow. Rap bolts located on top of pinnacle.

FA: Danny Ng

The corner, crack, chimney thing. DBB

Crack and face where The Prow pinnacle meets the downstream cliff. Straight up out of the hole, finishing at DBB.

The main cliff line of the crag easy walk-in access with good sport and trad lines

Up slanting pillar. FH to protect initial cruxy moves - then easier terrain to top. Take a long sling for up high to reach DBB set way back at the top of route. The old carrot bolts are from a contrived route further R and are considered “off-route” but can still be clipped (reachy) if the trad placements really don’t take your fancy.

The line where The Prow pinnacle meets the upstream cliff.

Our local version of “The Squeeze Test.” The smaller wiggle hole which separates the two main areas of the crag.

Curving line R of GOWTN corner. Stick clip first bolt (or place some small cams in the horizontal break), into cruxy moves laying/compressing off L arete to get established on face. Continue slightly R up slab to finish. Avoid cranking outwards on vertical pillar at base of route as it does seem to wobble. DBB

RH variant start for Little Boy. Up double aretes, linking in with previous climb at its 3rd bolt (avoid bridging off RH blocks for the full value). Straight up slab to finish. Take some large cams for the start. DBB

Pillar with 3 eye bolts. Take some wires for the top crack. DBB

The chimney R of bolted pinnacle

Fixed hangers on last major pillar on the R. Start from down low (using block), then L from ledge. DBB

FA: Danny Ng

Short bolted route on far R (facing upstream) with 2 bolts, on side-pulls and slopers. Take some midget cams (green dragonfly, or BD .1 X4) for the final moves. DBB

The water level tier. The first few routes can be accessed from anchors at the base of the Prow

Starting at The base of Fatman buttress, traverse upstream to Gabriel buttress. best done at high tide when the water is deeper. Dangerous falls and some hard and high sections with unknown and generally shallow water depth.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1982

crack to arete via a couple of bolts and spikes.

Right of fear and frothing from the same ledge

Further upstream, starting on a ledge about two meters above the water. Finger crack to roof and hand crack. A nice looking route

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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