Ascensions dans Moonarie trad par Paul Kinnane

This route looks so tempting to warmup on sitting so close to top camp, with it's easy access, moderate grading and a few bolts. But for those of us on a diet of well bolted sport climbs, on good rock quality, this route is trouble! I see from thecrag stats, this route gets almost no action, and those that do venture on to it don't have good things to say. Perhaps a route from a bygone era...

23? Negative! A great route which would see a lot more action if the grade even vaguely reflected the difficulty of the moves.

Cool move at the start and lots of moss at the end.

Worth a star or two for sure!

Had my eye on this route for nearly 20 years, and finally got to jump on it!

P1 - "Mega Classic" does not do this route justice! Probably the best route I have ever done. Ran out of gear and forearms towards the top, resulting a range of emotions - panic, fear, acceptance, commitment, triumph.

Guidebook had no stars for this route - good to see it with 3 stars in thecrag.

3rd time up this route. It hasn't got easier!

Think old-school. Think moss. Think loose blocks. Think horrible thrutching. Think dubious route description. Think Rubbery Under Arms. Think of another climb to do.

Great face climbing, although a tiny bit contrived (is the flake in or not?)

A decent line up the arete next to Stranger.

A very long, sustained first pitch that will blow your forearms to pieces. Definitely one of the "must do" Moonarie classics.

Sustained climbing up to the crux before the bolt. We then did the direct finish from the bolt which was pretty run-out.

Got the first pitch clean, but abseiled off given the horror stories we'd been told about the second.

A nice journey up the huge flake on Checkers Wall with Carolyn

Kept flipping upside-down off the first bolt, so didn't really give it a good go.

This climb is really really hard for 19! I had to completely bypass the roof at the bottom, and then blew to pieces at the top and had to have a sit.

Good lead by Nigel up a big crack

Very pumpy at the start with a committing finish on blown arms

Good climbing on thin gear.

A good warm-up for Nigel and my 3 day Moonarie-fest

I'm guessing by the absence of chalk that this is a seldon climbed route.

Do the 15 variant. If you must do the original, belay from 1/2 way along P2.

Take some small wires and cams for between the bolts...unless you are very brave.

Intimidating roof that must catch a lot of people out.

One of the best 17's around. Abseil anchors at the top of P1 now.

Pretty sparse protection. Glad I was only seconding.

Thas a really hard move half way up, which was fun watching other people do, but not much fun when I finally tried it!

Would be run-out on lead

Only did the first pitch

Great photographing position on this airy climb

Great climbing the whole way. A good day out with Denis.

16 my butt! P1 has a VERY hard move, but P2 makes up for it with nice climbing.

A bit bushy for my liking.

Fantastic finish on a tough 13.

Got lost a couple of times. Take lots of big hexes.