The Buttress Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Cameron Roy Brendan Heywood Garth Wimbush Jon Paul Badenoch Sean Charles Adam Clay Campbell Gome Craig Brownlie Hamish McLean

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU) © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

1. The Buttress 30 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. The Buttress 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Saison

La plupart Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -34.909033, 138.709390

Limitations de l'accès

Part of the area is located within the Morialta Conservation Park.

hérité de Morialta

approche

Park 300m towards town from the main gate to Boulder Bridge, Far Crag etc. There is a small car park (1-2 cars) on the S side of the road beneath the power lines.

Step over the guard rail at the yellow post and descend the very steep track to the cliff. The track can be treacherous when wet.

The cliff can also be approached from below, starting above Second Falls.

informations pour la descente

Descent can be made on the right side (looking out)

éthique

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

historique

The AUMC were exploring Morialta starting at the bottom, so this area was explored in the early 1960s before the areas further upstream. The Buttress (13) features what is probably the oldest bolt in the Adelaide hills.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Russian Roulette	12	Trad
2	Fos	5	Trad
3	Lemon Crack	7	Trad
4	Reflections	7	Trad 8m
5	Italian Job	6	Trad
6	Night Porter	8	Trad
7	Death Dream	12	Trad 9m
8	Bald Overhead	8	Trad
9	★ Gillette	12	Trad 18m
10	★ A Gorilla Coalition Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition. FA: 2012	19	Trad 18m
Cacher Légende Éditer Ajouter cet élément au topo Administrateur Topo Lien vers ce topo Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
11	★★ Gorilla My Dreams A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick. FA: Colin Reece, 1977	19	Trad 20m
12	★ Coalition	17	Trad 18m
13	★★ Gorilla My Dreams Original DS Gain the start of the wide crack by starting lower down in the gully (left of the now more popular true Direct Start) FA: Gary Scott, 1980	19	Trad 18m
14	★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.	21	Sportive 15m, 3
15	★★ Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct / Gorilla My Dreams Direct Finish Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull. FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish	22	Sportive 15m, 3
16	★★ Gorilla My Nightmare Longest route on the wall. Actually starts as for 'Gorilla My Dreams Original Direct Start' and takes a long diagonal up this then right across the now more popular bolted DS. Where that route breaks left to finish up the crack, keep trending right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings through a very bouldery finish exiting about 2-3m right of the other lines. Watch your back at the top. FA: Steve Kelly, 2000	23	Trad 18m
17	★ Tally-ho	21	Trad
Cacher Légende Éditer Ajouter cet élément au topo Administrateur Topo Lien vers ce topo Hide Cacher Éditer Ajouter cet élément au topo Administrateur Topo Lien vers ce topo Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
18	The Buttress Chimney	7	Trad
19	★ Street Legal This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height. FA: Gary Scott, 1979	16	Trad 13m
20	★ A Question of Balance	13	Trad 15m
21	★ A Question of Balance DF	16	Trad 15m
22	★ The Inverted Rasp	13	Trad 16m
23	Lorikeet	13	Trad 18m
24	Swift Parrot Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock. FA: Burke & Oerman	16	Trad
25	★ Good Training FA: Mike Dixon, Rick & Fred Dyer, 2008	21	Trad
26	The Company of Lovers	20	Trad
27	★ The Buttress Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.	13	Trad mixte 20m, 1
Cacher Éditer Ajouter cet élément au topo Administrateur Topo Lien vers ce topo Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
28	★ Close to the Edge FA: 1979	18	Trad 20m
29	★ Caucasian Chalk Circle FA: Malc Cochran, 1983	16	Trad 17m
30	★ Catch 22 FA: 1979	14	Trad 17m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
5		Fos	Trad
6		Italian Job	Trad
7		Lemon Crack	Trad
		Reflections	Trad 8m
		The Buttress Chimney	Trad
8		Bald Overhead	Trad
		Night Porter	Trad
12		Death Dream	Trad 9m
	★	Gillette	Trad 18m
		Russian Roulette	Trad
13	★	A Question of Balance	Trad 15m
		Lorikeet	Trad 18m
	★	The Buttress	Trad mixte 20m, 1
	★	The Inverted Rasp	Trad 16m
14	★	Catch 22	Trad 17m
16	★	A Question of Balance DF	Trad 15m
	★	Caucasian Chalk Circle	Trad 17m
	★	Street Legal	Trad 13m
		Swift Parrot	Trad
17	★	Coalition	Trad 18m
18	★	Close to the Edge	Trad 20m
19	★	A Gorilla Coalition	Trad 18m
	★★	Gorilla My Dreams	Trad 20m
	★★	Gorilla My Dreams Original DS	Trad 18m
20		The Company of Lovers	Trad
21	★	Good Training	Trad
	★★	Gorilla My Dreams DS	Sportive 15m, 3
	★	Tally-ho	Trad
22	★★	Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct	Sportive 15m, 3
23	★★	Gorilla My Nightmare	Trad 18m