Ascensions de Gorilla My Dreams DS

Wow!

Clean to the rest in the craft both times but not enough juice to pull the final moves.

TR after failing at the bottom. Cool cool route. Worth three stars. Nice move down low with the right hip in and a right hand gaston on small crimpy flake. Launched for the RH jug at the start. The LH cross at the end is a cool cool move, and you can launch for the final jug from there too. At the LH cross you can lock your RH fingers in and go as high as you can with the L hand. Higher feet at that point helps too.

Great little sneaky sport route

Forgot that I'd done this before. Very nice route, has some very cool moves in it. TR only.

On top rope, really excellent climb. That last move!

Beautiful sequenced climbs with positive holds and laybacks

Solo in the wet again cause I don't give a fuck.

Nice sustained jug haul.

Enjoyable, nice moves on good holds.

It'd be a fair way to the first bolt on lead...

Warm up.

Decided to lead it again, was going to have a chilled top rope day but temptation prevailed. You, the rock, three bolts, great moves, the top. What more could you ask for!

Enjoyable enough, the glued hold on top isn't very nice though.

In the wet with a sprained knee because I don't give a f#@$!

Great route the finish straight up is better than the other variants If this was at boulder bridge or far crag it would see a lot more traffic.

Not as strong as I used to be.

No harness, no rope, no protection. Just me, my chalk bag and the rock.

Another lap!

Reminds me of fascination which reminds me of muesli. (Gently overhanging left facing flake with plenty of side pulling.)

1 sit on the first try, got it 2nd go. Rattly flake down low a little concerning, learnt quickly how to climb without touching it.

I DID IT! No more dreaming about it during my sleep. I cleanly lead it from the ground up, no extra gear and topped out at the top! This is a really, really, really beautiful climb on lead. Probably the best lead you will do in Morialta! Get on it! )

More training for a lead ascent.

Another lap.

It's been a solid 6 months since I've climbed this (last time was on lead and took a mega fall from the top). Did it clean on top rope today. Feeling a lot stronger on it. Another lead attempt at this is in the near future! One of the best climbs at Mori!

One last ascent to pick up the gear.

Nice. A bit run-out to the first bolt.