Noeuds dans Mt Alexander

Mt Alexander is a granodiorite peak rising ~350m above the surrounding area (744m above sea level). The rock quality varies from very good, smooth and solid, to coarse and friable in places.

There are a number of sports climbs, trad climbs, and boulder problems.

A little collection of boulders along the side of the road just before the right hand turn into Joseph young road when travelling from Harcourt. Grades up to v8.

Stand-start and make a one-move-wonder to the good large hold where the arete flattens out. Mantel to finish. So named because the slabby arete above is where the real problem should go.

Stand-start and reach a small positive edge using crimps. From here, better holds lead to a big move to a large blob, and then the top.

Start on the left most juggy rail to the right of "Ghanima". Traverse right, use the sidepull on "I touched his face, I felt the gift", into gaston out right. Pull onto the jugs out right, then kick across to right detached block and finish right of "The face beyond the groping hands".

Stand-start. Climb directly up the scoop, and then head out left via a small crimp on the face. From here, finish direct.

Climb the arête from a stand-start. Pinchy moves lead to a throw to a good hold. From here head left to finish up the slab.

AKA I touched the holds and hope they stayed on the face. It’s actually really cool and the holds held 4 ascents up front so that’s a start! Stand start via the pedestal then up via edges and the worrying looking layaway to finish direct or slightly right from the epic jug up high. Get a spot to keep you from breaking your back and or head on the lurking boulder of justice.

Sit-start avoiding the large detached blocks to the left and right. Climb the obvious line of broken features to gain better holds and the top. Easier from a stand-start.

Sit start on the detached block to the right of Moisture for the dead. Climb up the detached block only, keeping left and close to the crack separating the blocks.

Sit-start and climb the arete using the diagonal crack.

Sit start and climb the wall directly to top out via Sidney Crosby. Big foothold at start of SC is out.

First move as for de ja vu then right reversing Sidney Crosbie and finishing up Babymoon. No use of the top until exit up BM. Will also have an extension into LOR.

Start as for DJV, traverse right reversing SC, get established on vertical rail start of LOR and finish as for LOR (big foot ledge being in).

Start DJV, finish up Pain and Persistence. The added climbing provides extra spice for the finish and a nice twist on the name.

Sit-start using the undercut with the right hand. Lean a long way leftwards to use a pinch on the diagonal crack. Use this to cross over for a crimp above with the right hand before topping out on the far left arete. Stretchy and powerful

From undercling rock up and left to high diagonal incut in crack. Then straight up to top out. Reachy and grade or two harder if short arms.

Sit-start on the undercut to reach a poor hold on the face. From here, a lunge up and leftwards gains the top. Feet stay on the block for the lunge.

Start as for National Park using the undercut and side-pull below. Right hand goes to a hold on the face. Hold the tension (feet on block) and get a higher hold with the left hand. From here, get your left foot up, steady and then go to the top with the left hand. Top section is a lot easier for the tall. Use the block for feet at the start but you get established with a higher left foothold prior to going for the top (unless you're a giant).

Sit-start just right of National Park with a lefthand undercling and righthand sidepull. Use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up through the nose on big holds via big moves.

Start as for 'Babymoon' (or even better matched on the big sidepull) but do not use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up and rightwards without using the nose via a sharp round pocket and a cut loose move to finish direct. This can be climbed using the huge blocky foothold at around V5/6.

Sit-start on the lowest two side-pulls and climb the overhanging face on positive holds. Holds right of the arête (on the slab) are out of bounds for hands and feet. Low square notch on the arete is in. Top out to finish.

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Sit-start and climb the low rounded arête

Opposite the boulder with St James, etc. facing away from the road.

Use the crack of St Toby to climb the slab to the left of that problem

Stand-start and climb directly up the discontinuous crack. Avoid holds on the surrounding climbs.

Check the crack before sticking your fingers in! Funnel webs (possibly trapdoor spiders) have set up home in this crack (July, 2018). Inspect for circular, tube like webs in the crack

Sit-start and climb the crack

Climb is facing the road, on the boulder opposite Gyroscopic Flop.

Sit-start and climb up the slab. Don’t stray too far left.

Start L on the big two handed jug and traverse R-wards along the rail it is attached to. Burly moves lead to the bottom of Crowbar not required. Smack a heel under the flake and shimmy your way up the sketchy flake to top out

Sit-start and climb the arete using the large loose flake. Don't stray too far left

Sit-start and make a big move left to a crimp around the side of the bloc. Use this to rearrange your feet to allow a direct finish up the left-hand arête. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade.

Sit-start on crimps and then reach rightwards to the arête which is climbed to finish. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade.

SDS with two hands on jugs - finish to the right.

SDS on same holds as "Frog in the Fog". Head to the top and traverse left around the arete. Head up once you are established on the good jug foothold on the left.

Sit-start on the largest holds in the low break (not quite at the far right-hand end). Traverse leftwards, slapping and heel-hooking, until better holds permit a reachy rock-over to finish. Nice line but tricky to keep your feet off the ground.

Sit start using any hold you want and head straight up.

Climb the slab from a small ledge. Stand-start.

Stand-start to the right of SSatH. Climb the slab directly via some thin moves

Stand-start and climb the arête which eases at the top. Since tree fell against arete start now considerably more awkward and more like V2.

A few good boulders just up Joseph young road when coming from Harcourt.

Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete

Possibly the best line in the area. Climb the gorgeous arete using small but positive holds. Stand start using the big undercling with the right hand.

Stand start with left hand in the open corner and right hand on a low crimp. Punch up for better holds on the arete with the right hand, then technical moves allow a crimp on the front face to be got with the left hand. Carry on directly up the face/arete (still tricky). A fantastic climb.

Climb the arete/slab on the slabby left-hand side. Eases at the finish.

Climb the arete on the steep right-hand side. A tricky stand-start eases after a few moves

Stand on the large boulder to the right of Lama's V3, pull on to the wall and grab the large ledge below the top. Top out. Height dependent. A bit weird really.

Overhanging arete on the boulder right of the main boulder. Short. Opposite Lama's V1. Not on the bolus boulder.

Start on the boulder to the right of the Bolus boulder. From a good hold on the right arete, traverse from R to L (tricky move in the middle) ending up on the Bolus boulder. Finish easily. I was there. The rock was there. I thought I may as well climb it. It may well have been done before. Most probably by me!

Various problems and eliminates up to V4

The Goldfield is located about 300m further down the road (on the left) from Artful Dodger area. Park as for Artful Dodger.

Discovered by Hiroaki Nishikawa.

Sitstart and climb the beautiful arete on its left hand side to a mantle.

Sitstart and climb the cracks and wall right of Anamnesis.

High stand-start left of Maverick and climb the crack/wall using the vague arete to the right.

Stand-start matched on the crimp rail in the wall left of Lil Ditto and make a hard move to the big hold up on the face. Finish via more long moves and slopers. A great problem with some hard moves. I did flirt with giving it V9 but maybe V8 is closer to the mark - time will tell.

Located in the cluster of boulders near the top of the quarry wall. Sit start with LH on face, R on arete. Move up through exciting traverse to blobby topout.

Opposite Maverick. Stand start and climb the nice wall in the gulley on chicken heads. Good moves. Be careful not to fall into the opposite wall of the gulley.

Low stand-start and make a move to the lip then a long reach over to finish. Don't use the side wall.

Sit-start right of DSOTN and climb the prow feature.

Sit-start and climb the arete right of Chasing the Buffalo.

Climb the crack which fades out at the top.

A lovely delicate climb...can you find the crucial crimp?

Start as for TCC but make a powerful move right onto the good top hold on the other face. Make a hard mantle from here.

Sit-start and up the wall to finish with a tricky mantle.

Climb the wall. Sit start.

Climb the wall and cracks. Sit start.

Sit-start and climb up to the layaway. Traverse left to finish using the detached block.

Nice powerful small boulder.

Perfect for the kids, climb up the dirty crack using the flake and ledge.

Start on the flake go up direct and mantle onto the grass.

Stand start on the left end of the ledge go straight up on good crimps to a desperate mantle.

Start on top of the boulder, and circumnavigate the horn. Add a few grades if you avoid the detached block as a foothold. 3 stars if this is your kind of thing, less than zero if you like your forearm skin.

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

The First band of boulders and short cliffs that you encounter when descending from the road.

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Sit start on large angled rail. Move up right, and then top out easily

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Start with Hands on the Good Quartz jugs, and feet on the textured quartz rail. Traverse left gaining good feet, then up into tricky moves before topping out through thin seam. Avoid using Right arete.

Start as for Diamond in the rough, but continue traverse to right arete and top out easily.

Climb the Right arete from the good undercling.

Start on the good hands with barely any feet, up sharp moves to top out on slab.

Sit start with good hands and cryptic feet. Slap up the opposing aretes to top out hugging the mossy capstone. Good hands can be found without clearing the moss and lichen beds.

From a sit, climb the Left arete being careful to avoid detaching the lower half of the weak flake.

Start as for Push and Pull. Traverse Left on sparse feet and thin hands and finish as for Equilibrium.

Start with good hands and smeared feet. Follow Right arete upward and reach mossy jug for top out.

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Active project on thin clean slab.

Sit start on low good ledge 1m to the Left of Marbled Gecko. Up left to flake, and then follow rail and top out as for Staircase.

Sit start using compression moves and avoiding the large ledge off Left. Up to gain positive rail and mantle before topping out.

Climb up through sloped ledges to top out. Sit start.

Pitch 1: From a sit start Climb the Right arete of the boulder to large ledge. Pitch 2: Continue up and over capstone to good belay.

Arete no feet on adjacent boulder - stand start.

Traverse L to R and finish up Nature Break.

Stand start and up crack and wall.

Sit-start the obvious crack and traverse left to slopey top-out.

Start with notch on the bulge and gaston in the crack and climb the bulge.

Up the hill and to the left of Once Upon a Climb. Start with left hand side pull in the crack and right hand on the arete. Kick foot onto bulge and move up the arete. Bulge is out after the first move. Can maybe be done without the bulge.

Located 30m up the hill from Crossroads. Sit start with left hand on vertical crack and right hand on low pinch. Up and left via side-pulls to dead-point and mantle.

Various slab and face climbs bolted and climbed by Sam North, Rudi Schoo, and others in the 2010's.

A small cliff band at the bottom of the hill with a good variety of slab and crack boulder problems along it.