Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dim 8 Oct. 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | |||||
|
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Jeu 28 Sept 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Isolated Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ Eagle's Ridge - avec James | 1500m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Everything we were after plus a little. Started at 6 from lwr portals campground following kangaroo trails and the ridge line thru the Tom tums. Found ourselves a bit off route descending isolated (stay SE if not rappelling?). Wild views and exposure up north peak then followed a path of sorts into the lenticular cloud to gain east peak. Bailed on descending via savages opting for SE ridge instead. Arrived at yellow pinch just in time to avoid the impending thunderstorm, waited that out, and limped back to camp in time for a twilight swim. Circuit took us just shy of 12hrs. Great to spend time in the mountains with James but we ought have less preexisting ailments for our next adventure I think.
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Dim 20 Août 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge - avec Yan, Winnie, Abbie, Craig, Danny | 600m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
A couple of mishaps and navigation errors turned what was meant to be a 11hr hike into a 2 days adventure. Had to sleep on the mountain for the night under emergency blanket & tarp. Ran out of water the next day but luckily we have some purifying tablets within the group. Definitely bring headlamp & extra supplies if you are planning to do this route.
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Dim 20 Août 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
jaime toro
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
grimpé en tête par
jaime toro
7
21
20m
grimpé en tête par
jaime toro
10
17
15m
grimpé en tête par
jaime toro
11
21
20m
grimpé en tête par
jaime toro
12
20
20m
grimpé en tête par
jaime toro
13
22
20m
grimpé en tête par
Daniel Razzino
Tough one to onsight dropped it right at the last mantle the very technical The roof part below was choss bricks
14
22
20m
grimpé en tête par
jaime toro
15
14
30m
grimpé en tête par
jaime toro
| 320m | |||||
We linked pitches 1-2 3-4 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15
The mantel on pitch 13 is very technical Was abit hot today foot were on fire by the top Good day out was 13 hours car to car and we wastes about 2 hours looking for rap and start of the route |
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Mer 16 Août 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - avec Daygin Prescott | 320m | Pas la peine | ||||
Bigwall style.
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Mar 8 Août 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Isolated Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ Eagle's Ridge | 1500m | |||||
Big day out with Liana, starting at 5:45 at LP car park. The day held the most vertical bush bashing I'd ever done, plenty of back of forth route finding to get down some of the peaks, enjoying some pretty wild vistas, a bit of exposed slab and plenty of Grass trees to poke you in the ears, eyes and nostrils on ascent. We navigated around one of Toms Tums after staring at it and thinking 'that looks a bit much', going east around the base with some more bush bashing through the veg and battling with some stubborn vines. We came to a gully with a fixed line, pulled some moves to get up out of the gully and once again were faced with a bit more gardening. Staring over at Isolated Peak we had the same thoughts of 'that looks a bit much', but before we knew it we were well above our previous peak and hadn't had much bowel quivering exposure to contend with. We kept up a consistent pace, stopping at each peak to take in the views and the overwhelming size of the landscape around us. We had amazing conditions for most of the day with cool temps, sunshine and great visibility right up until entering the clouds on East peak. We descended via South Ridge as we knew we'd be hiking some of it in the dark and wanted a well marked option to easily find our way back to Yellowpinch, where a jar of pickles was waiting. We reached the car around 7pm, still laughing, smiling and maybe a bit delirious.
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Lun 31 Juil 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Joshua Malherbe
| 320m | |||||
Wasn't as hard to find as I thought, path seems pretty well defined at this point. Pitch seven was amazing, such awesome exposure. Also loved how much slab was on this climb absolutely epic!
|
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Nick Gresham
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | |||||
More french than free! I blame the bag. Honestly the climbing was not as hard as the walk down. My legs are shaking even thinking about it.
|
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Lun 10 Juil 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge | 600m | |||||
Came to do Face of Long Leaning and missed the start. Decided on playing it smart and calling it and jsut to summit another way. Ended up going up something not quite this. Messed up the descent. Long day out. Lower Portals Water is the best tasting thing I've ever had. Glad we carried all the gear and ropes all day to never use it
|
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Ven 7 Juil 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | |||||
found the two crux pitches hard and terrifying, seductive problem solving tho
|
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Lun 22 Mai 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Bryn Norris
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | |||||
What an absurd adventure that will stick with me for the rest of my life! We both expected this route to be demanding and boy did it exceed all expectations. The early march up the mountain was really stunning, watching the layers of mountains slowly appear around us.
The route threw in its fair share of challenges, with a few crimps exploding here and there, but overall, it was epic. I found pitch 5 and 6 incredibly fun… traversing out into the abyss and gaining the odd jug to be able to turn around and bathe in the exposure, and then punching up into some great solid moves. Unreal. To go from a totally unseasoned gym climber a couple of years ago and hearing about this mega, seemingly unattainable route, to gaining enough experience to get up it, was a very surreal moment for me. Big ups to Bryn for being a weapon of a partner to train and execute this with! |
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Dim 21 Mai 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Peter Forsyth
| 320m | |||||
Mega push from the boys. Never had a more stressful day in my life - glad to have had such an experience. Highlights were the gorgeous sunrise, the horrible sounds that came out of my mouth climbing past the overhang on pitch 7, Laura's BBQ scrolls at the top of pitch 9, the absolute screamer I took on pitch 14, and the downright F tier banter (as usual). Won't ever forget the crazy mix of emotions I felt after getting back on the horse and pulling up to the anchors on pitch 14. What a day!
|
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Mar 2 Mai 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Gus Mckelvie, StrongmanSam
1
19
25
2
20
25
3
20
20
4
16
25
5
18
15
6
21
20
7
21
20
8
18
20
9
14
25
10
17
15
11
21
20
12
20
20
13
22
20
14
22
20
15
14
30
| 320m | |||||
What a lovely day out, bit of choss here and there, some interesting bolt placements and cool exposure up a nice big rock.
|
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Lun 1 Mai 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Tim Janetzki, Samuel Gough
1
19
25
2
20
25
3
20
20
4
16
25
5
18
15
6
21
20
7
21
20
8
18
20
9
14
25
10
17
15
11
21
20
12
20
20
13
22
20
14
22
20
15
14
30
| 320m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
First multi-pitch and what an introduction! Huge thanks to Sam and Tim for taking me up this beautiful mountain! Just a fantastic experience! Even while seconding the whole route while in well over my head. There is definitely some choss to be found but overall a great time.
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Dim 30 Avr 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
South Ridges | |||||||
1 ~2 | ★ South Ridge - avec luccabroz | 850m | |||||
Public holiday madness. Didn't get away till midday so shot up peasents to give us some time to shoot the sunset - didn't disappoint! Few more interesting inverts added to the list 🕷️ #15
|
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Lun 3 Avr 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 R | ★★★ Long Leaning Ridge - avec Tom P | 900m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Quintessential Barney. Lots of fun (and at times quite exposed) scrambling the whole way up. The final push looked far more intimidating from a far than in turned out to be - thankfully! Descended via short leaning and were treated to a beaut swim at the bottom, where Barney falls meets the creek
|
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Ven 10 Mars 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - avec Brosnan Degenaar | 320m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
TheCrag doesn't seem to like long reports so if you are curious what went down check out my write-up
https://docs.google.com/document/d/18SIg9d7rgus3KcUzcFSZjeU_OgDu6f34RTONiXwW_rs/edit?usp=sharing |
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Sam 25 Fév 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge - avec Lucca | 900m | |||||
Passed two unlucky parties on the way up who got turned around by the final shute (<10min from the summit) due to wet rock. We pushed on and scored 360o views this time round, with not a soul in sight - cheerin. Saw some more cool creepy crawlies come night fall too.
Note: Creek at R.J. is getting low!
|
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Sam 14 Jan 2023 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Invertebrate photo expedition number 1. Plan was Logans but again the weather had other ideas... We summited East peak just as the rain started coming down. Set up down by the creek and had a few naps as the rains rollled by. There's some funky creatures up there once you start looking for them! Keen to see what we come across over the coming months. We decided to have another crack up East peak in the morning to score the view but just as we neared the summit clouds rolled in again... maybe next time
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Mer 21 Déc 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
17 Difficile | ★ East Face Route - avec Daygin Prescott | 280m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Follow this for the trip report: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1pAzDut9lcp9y9PpDT2CkatVrwvEgtPLdvcMm-mLVedc/edit?usp=drivesdk
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Jeu 27 Oct. 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
South Ridges | |||||||
1 ~2 | ★ South Ridge | 850m | |||||
Scotias bday bash. There was a severe weather warning for the area so we decided to play it safe and head up Souths. Dodged (most) of the storm! But still managed an eventful outing, more so for some than others...
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Mer 26 Oct. 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge - avec jim ben | 750m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
After mobys recent 10th ascent, i decided it was probably time to quest up this route. Yim called with his rsvp at 9pm night before and so we blasted out there, bought some museli bars in boonah and determinedly drove south. Turns out my car doesnt have wheel allignment issues and it is physically possible for us to not hook right at the doogs! A rogue cow blocked the trailhead but he was a good boi and moved for us. Dont know how the lads run this thing. Its fucken long and steep. Also pretty happy with the decision to drive a car out and not ride bikes from brisbane. Nice to do abit of random scrumbl on some slabs and a beaut (but hot) day to be on a mou'n. Had a curry bag up top with a couple gents post-se ridge. We went down theyre way, lost the track 1472 times and had a nudie swim infront of a family back at yellowfin tuna car park. Cooked dins at the frog lookout infront of a gorgeous sunset.
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Lun 17 Oct. 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Cory Shearwin
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Amazing day out. Perfect weather, somehow wasn't too hot the entire day.
The walk in was a great time, I'm glad we had done it a few weeks prior as to not be tricked by all the false summits. Slogging up all the gear on the day was a pain, but definitely better than having to carry up enough equipment to camp the night. The climbing was a lot different than I imagined, lots of techy slab with perfectly sharp crimps the whole way up. The boulder problems and the traverse pitches were by far the best; providing fantastic moves and great exposure. Highlight of the trip was watching Cory perform a near perfect backflip whilst on the top rope when a crucial well chalked hold exploded during the crux of the pitch 7. Glad the hold waited for me to get through the lead. The climb took us longer than expected, mainly due to the second last pitch being absolutely soaked and the constant agony of climbing in bouldering shoes. Although in hindsight it was really nice topping out at sunset, easily the best and most rewarding sunset I've ever experienced it made for a very sweet end to the climbing. A great day out with a great mate. |
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge - avec Jarred Vardy, Tom P, Geordie Carscadden | 750m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
10th summit of the beast. And what a day it was. Pedalled from Brisbane to Barney, shot up Logans, down Souths then back on the bike to Brisi in just under 21hrs (03:00 - 23:30 ish). Big day with the fellas! Many a Clif Bar consumed
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Dim 16 Oct. 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Leg 2 of the Barney Sufferfest with Moby, Jarred and Geordie. Cycled from Brisbane to Barney, summited then cycled back within a day.
Stinking hot at the start, leaving Yellowpinch at 10:20. Sweated buckets up until the start of the scramble where we were treated to some cloud cover for the rest of the hike. Surprisingly quick, about 2:15 car to summit. Descended Souths and made it back to Yellowpinch at about 4 for a swim. Started cycling home at quarter to five. Notably Geordies first time up Barney. |
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Sam 15 Oct. 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Brosnan Degenaar
| 320m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Far out, what a massive day out!
It took a total of 16 hours from car to car. We started hiking at 5am and got to the rappel station at about 7:15. Chilled out, had some food and went down to the base for an 8:30 start. We expected to top out by about 4pm but life had other plans and we ended up topping out at 5:45. Seeing the sunset from the top of Mount Barney was so beautiful but hiking back down in the dark was not ideal. We got back to the car at 9:15 after about 3 hours of hiking (and getting lost a couple of times). We were exhausted and sore but filled to the brim with stoke. Simply amazing. The climbing: The crux pitch was definitely the walk-in. Hiking up with 10kg of gear and water each was a struggle. We linked pitches 2-3, 4-5, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13, and 14-15. We only had trouble linking 2-3 because I ran out of draws just 2 bolts below the anchor. 16 draws just wasn't quite enough. Linking pitches 10-11 was necessary due to one of the quicklinks at the top of pitch 10 having a hole rusted through it. There was no way I'd set up a belay on that. The rock was ok for the most part, but some bad rock caused me to have a mad whipper while seconding on pitch 7. I called for some slack and climbed up into the overhang. I was sorting out my feet to get a sick drop knee and reach over the lip to get ready to mantle. All of a sudden, the hold keeping me into the wall exploded and I launched off, with all the slack leaving me hanging upside down with my head in a bush. Luckily I wasn't injured and I was able to make the mantle without that hold. I was a bit shaken and let Bros lead the next couple of pitches while I settled down. That was the most excitement I've ever had on a top rope, that's for sure! Other than that, there was some beautiful climbing to be done all throughout. Lots of slab, lots of sharp crimps, plenty of exposure and some amazing boulder moves mixed in. The standouts for me were the pitch 5 traverse with its great views and exposure, and pitch 11 with its super cool traversing moves over the void. I think pitch 14 would have been spectacular climbing, except the entire corner leading up to the third bolt was soaking wet. It took a tough bit of French aiding to get past that but then it was a sprint to the top on the last pitch. I reached the anchor and immediately felt such relief that we'd actually done it! The stoke is unmatched but the pain will keep me away, at least for a little while. |
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Mar 4 Oct. 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | |||||
Good climbing. Got charged by a pair of possums screaming war cries on the way down, pretty hilarious experience.
|
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Lun 12 Sept 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Dylan Glavas
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
... What Dylan said..
What an epic mission. First time touching Barney rock, straight onto the East Face. Beautiful climbing on better than anticipated rock, with incredible exposure and surroundings! Some of the coolest moves I've done on a multi- standout has to be the bouldery moves on the 21 pitch! Had me whooping with glee. Sustained climbing throughout the 22's as well! Props too Dylan for leading the first, that was heinous with the bag. Beautiful day out on one of the best faces in Queensland, what a day. I'm still not a fan of hiking though.. |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Lee Prescott
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
WOOOOOOOOO! Fucking mega classic what an adventure. Rocked up back in Brissie and the day after straight into a solid white rock session. Sent hard, mega pub feed after then did out shopping.
Rocked up at yellow pinch carpark around 10/11pm and had a somewhat decent sleep on boulder mats under a full moon. The hype was real and it was intensifying. 5am wakeup, 6 hours sleep, being sore from the day before, a strong cup of prison blend, half a sub and racking our gear later we started walking around 620ish. Lee's first time up Barney so was tricked by every false peak, as we walked up we awed at the possible first ascents along the boulders on our way up, good times. The hype was real once reaching the drop off point, we ended up reaching the base of the climb at 10am. The "wooos!" were loud and we were stoked we had an amphitheater to cheer us right back on. Straight into it with the 19, we learnt early that seconding with the bag SUCKS! Super good climbing from the get go, loved every pitch and to be honest the rock quality was not all that bad, too be fair it has been trafficked long before our ascent, still had to trundle one last death block around pitch 7. We linked pitches 2-3, 4-5, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13 & 14-15. The pitches individually are really short and most of them can be linked easily. Standouts were the exposed boulder problem, the general exposure on the above belay, the solid crimpy climbing (all of it) and the gr 22 pitches. I had to fight for that first 22, had to do a big slap to the slopey shit over the lip and fully commit & even then it's not over! Seconding the second 22 was fucked, due to my error, coming around that first corner you need to reach up into a slot, I missed that slot and hit a razor sharp sloper, bearable but not for long... I go with my other hand for the slot, miss again and hit more razor sharp sloper, I kept slipping and slipping but no fucking chance I was letting go this far in!! Through persistence and psattt I finally got the slot while almost peeling off into the exposure below me, I trusted a slopey footer and pushed up to stand on a rest halfway into the pitch. More technical climbing ahead! Topping out (near 5pm) was super satisfying, our success echoed through the couloir, Lee's firs time topping barney was via the east face, so sick. Sweet, now the walk back down, took for ever! Bit of ticker needed to get us back down that hill jeesus! We talked about how much food we were gonna eat and how fucking rewarding it would be. We hit the cars pull out the boulder mats, sit down, smash a 1/4 of a sub and some tofu scramble and just, be. 111/10 what a time with a good mate. Will be back on this face in the future. Stoked! Very visionary to bolt this line on such a daunting face, good effort and much appreciated. |
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Dim 21 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Isolated Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ Eagle's Ridge | 1500m | |||||
Solo ascent up Eagle's while Moby did his double ascent. Had this one on the cards for a while, foiled by COVID on my first attempt. A good day out, partly cloudy and exceptionally windy after Isolated. Phenomenal views from the isolated summit and some enjoyable scrambling from the slops of Tom's Tum onwards. My ITB injury flared up on the ascent.
Met Moby at the East-North saddle and descended Rocky Creek out of interest. Quite tricky and overgrown in the upper section which made going slow. The creek also had enough flow for some of the sections to be a bit hairy, along with some diversions to avoid little cliff lines. Won't be using it again as a descent route. We got fed up with the rock hopping and traversed across to Logans once it flattened out and headed back to Yellowpinch. Moby ran from there to the portals carpark to grab the car; ITB restrained me to walking. I think next time I'll descend via South-East to turn it into a complete skyline traverse of Barney. |
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Dim 21 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
North Peak | |||||||
2 | Rocky Gully - avec Tom P | 500m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Finished down this, slowly... Back to Yellowpinch then ran around to Lower Portals
|
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Dim 21 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
down then back up
|
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Training day
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Sam 20 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge - avec Tyler | 600m | |||||
Summited leaning peak, then linked up North & East peaks, returning down SE Ridge.
Big day. The 6km walk between the car parks at the end of the day was a real mood killer. |
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Lun 15 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
17 Difficile | ★ East Face Route - avec Sezza13 | 280m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Read Alex's climbing report from years ago, felt forewarned. But it's the first day of holidays, so we're keen. 0510h depart from car-park, 0940h start climbing. First pitch uneventful. I lead the next pitch. Crawl along a chimney full of prickly weeds that release plumes of choking spores. The old rusty bolt mentioned in the old guide is now a decade older, almost rusted through. Used it for gear, better than nothing. Sarah leads, links pitches, sets up station on a small knob of crumbly rock. I mantle it, a substantial proportion drops into space. Rattled, I lead on to the cave station. Well after noon, we eat in the cave. Sarah belays, I chimney up. Very questionable gear, climbing stale toast. Get to the roof, assess options. Right: blank boulder. Left: mossy dripping waterfall. Left it is. Clean the good holds, right off from the wall. Wipe mud off the remaining bad hold. Find dry grass and scrub a spot to smear. Really don't want to make a move. Can't see any gear in the waterfall. Looks like it will be several wet meters before I get anything. Keep looking for options. Procrastinate. Try and set up slings for feet, no dice. I'm still jammed in the chimney, it's been an hour. Dark now. Maybe bivvy, look again in the morning? S&R? Put on head-torch. Halfheartedly make a few attempts. Clear off moss chunks. What's the drop going to be like? Better send it, otherwise Sarah will. Take off backpack. Ask Sarah to turn up the encouragement. Crimp, pull up. Scrabble for anything, find a small gaston. Smear the wet rock. Soaked from the ice-cold waterfall. Jam myself in the slippery corner, desperately inch up. Find a crack for a cam! Consider frenching it, but it won't help. Inch higher. Find a jug, pull up and out, over empty black space. On a ledge. Disbelief. Somehow on the other side of the impossible. Alive, really alive. Next pitch. Sarah dives into the overgrown jungle crack. She leads up forever, links pitches. Not much of the 80m rope left, still no station. A small scream, I tense. She's fine. Just a slip. Finally found gear for a station. I follow. Halfway up, I also slip. Pendulum a meter or two, into the wall. Something cracks in my chest. Feel for broken bones, perhaps a rib. Tell Sarah I'm fine. Keep on climbing. Top out at 0115h, back to van at 0700h. Like a horror movie: everything is fine at the credits, it wasn't real. Totally worth it to get high.
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Jeu 11 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - avec Nathan Kenny | 320m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
atmospheric, got the lead on all the best pitches siic
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2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
day before climbing the governor we walked up to stash gear and find rap spot. took us 2 hours to get to the bivy spot and was told it should take 3-4 so we kept walking lol. we reached the summit and thought we may have walked up logans ridge and so walked down to the tree line on the other side which was actually logans ridge then walked back up and over to the original spot. then walked back down the hill to sleep then up the next day to do the governor.
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | ★ Bon | ||||
I wasnt mentally prepared for just how rotten the rock was going to be. it makes the worse honeycombed sandstone choss look good. the rock brakes in big blocks and on little crimps and edges despite how much traffic it seems to get. there was a party below who knocked a few larger sized blocks off which was a bit exciting. luckily we didnt pull any blocks off. not as exposed as i was hoping, was mostly slabby and ledgy. pitch lengths were also shorter than on the crag. when we were linking pitches we werent get much past halfway on a 70m. a rough guess might be closer to 250m. i think what makes this climb good is the prominence to the surrounding land and the sufferfest that is the approach. would recommend to those seeking an all included adventure
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Mer 10 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Overnight with Scosh, awesome light as the sun dropped low. Lyrebird made some beaut noises around camp the following morning, yet to photograph one...
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Mar 9 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Fantastic route if you like scrambling up some stunning granite formations. just keep in mind the top section is fairly exposed at times but easy climbing. just keep a level head and remember exposure ≠ difficulty. you got this.
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Mar 9 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
South Ridges | |||||||
1 | ★ South Ridge | 850m | Pas la peine | ||||
a long slog which has been worn down by all the touristy types who want to go up barney. i used the track for the descent after going up south east ridge. only really worth climbing if you're planning to overnight at rum jungle, however for that id still just recommend going up south east to the peak and descending to rum jungle.
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Mer 3 Août 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
23 22 | ★★ The Governor - avec Liamtemp | 320m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Awesome day out with Liamtemp and my second time up The Gov. There are some superb climbing sequences amongst all the dodgy rock
Started climbing sometime before 9am and topped out at 3pm; so roughly 6-6.5 hours on the route. We divvied up the leading as follows: P1 Liam, P2+3 Matt (Linked), P4+5 Liam (Linked), P6 Matt, P7 Liam, P8+9+10 Matt (Linked), P11 Liam, P12 Matt, P13+14 Liam (Linked), P15 Matt. Lastly, pitch 13 is stiff at the grade and in my opinion deserving of grade 23. I pulled through draws on 2nd for this pitch to save time but everything else done clean. |
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Mar 26 Juil 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Definitely one of the best alpine style ridge scrambles in Australia. Took a lot of trying with light wind but managed to fly off the top and back to the car, days out in the bush don't get much better than that
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Lun 13 Juin 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
North Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ North Ridge - avec Timmy | 650m | ★ Bon | ||||
A nice down climb and return route from Leaning Peak. Super heavily vegetated and hard to follow at present post fires and rain, and minimal use by anyone. A machete or bolo knife might actually be worth carrying to cut thru the thickets of 4-5m wattle with vines that you'll likely have to try and move thru lower down.
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Sam 2 Avr 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
West Peak/North-West ridges | |||||||
2 | ★★★ Barney Gorge | 600m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
UQMC trip up the gorge. About 12 of us all up. A very slow start lead to a benightment in the gorge on some not so flat ground. Jarred and I agree that it made for a funner/more interesting hike. The gorge itself is fantastic, albeit very bush-bashy in sections. Some of the nicest swimming holes I've had the pleasure of jumping in up there.
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Dim 6 Mars 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Scosh, Jard, Thompson, Yasmino, Jarule and a mushroom or two for good measure. Lightning storm at the summit of all places. Sketchy sketchy sketchy descent to the safety of the saddle. A wet one
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Cruisy hike up with Moby, Scosh, Jard, Yas and Elijah. Really enjoyed the scrambling on this ascent and found some new lines on the way up. Moby got some funny pics of the crew.
Just as we started the descent from East peak to rum jungle we got hit by a lightning storm. Sideways rain and lightning flashing increasingly close to us made for an exciting and fast descent to rum jungle. Rain eased off once we got there and the sun came out for the descent down South's. |
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Dim 6 Fév 2022 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
With a favorable looking BOM forecast Eric, Jarod and Myself set off for another Barney sunrise. The now staple 2:30am wake up almost a highlight, with Eric backing up his punishment of four up n go's in <10minutes - a sight to behold. We got away under starlight, however this was short lived. Once again Barney's unpredictable weather doing it's thing. Cold, wet and very very windy, the exposed scrambles made for what is probably my most exciting Barney exploit yet. Always a good day out
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Sam 11 Déc 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Carpark to summit ~1hr15. "Logans Road Climb" 59:19. 96 seconds off the fasted time? Lost the trail near the summit, led to some steeper than planned scrambling. About time to head back out there and have another shot at it. How good is Barney!?
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Dim 28 Nov. 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Impromptu Barney with Max. Plan was originally to shoot up Logans but the wet weather put a dampener on that. Lots and lots of fog up top, got a little off track trying to make our way down to the saddle.
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Mer 17 Nov. 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Logans ridge attack with Tom Jard and Enrico. First crack at running up the beast! 2:30am start. Minor deviation into some steep terrain by eric and myself a stones throw from the summit. Again, super fog atop. Chips and Gatorades at the Milkbar on the way home
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3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Time trial up Logan's with Eric, Moby and Jarred. Drove out the arvo before, early night then up at ~3 for a 3:30 get away to beat the heat. Intense nausea caused a short break for Jarred and I just as the sun was rising. Came good after that on the scramble and powered to the top. Pulled Moby and Eric back on route right near the summit in some intense fog.
Car to summit: 2:01:18 |
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22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | ★ Bon | ||||
A great time up on Barney, and one of my all-time climbing experiences. An awesome mixture of head-game, climbing mileage, and involved rope skills which are all the things I love about climbing (apart from friends)!
Short: No falls. Camped on ridge. Woke up 2:30am. Started climbing 4:30am, topout 6:30pm. Linked p1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 11/12, 13/14. Weather was incredible. Massive thanks to Dan Cox for coming out and being a support in case of rescue! Long: Hiked up SE Ridge at 16:30 Monday to camp on the ridge bivy and get in 6 hours sleep only for a curious Antechinus to keep me up most the night. Woke up a bit before my 2:30 alarm, starting climbing at 4:30am and made my way to the top of pitch 12 by midday, linking up every 2 pitches, average 1h15 for climbing/rapping/jugging each 2 pitches. Felt really good, but by p11/12, my forearms + biceps started to cramp whilst climbing and jugging. Had a good rest at the ledge below p13 getting fluids back, eating, and taking salt tablets for arm cramps. Dan Cox surprised me by rapping into the ledge below this to give me company and cleaned the crux pitches and talking through key holds. I wanted to climb the Gov this year to rehearse beta but didn't get the chance - I'm not certain I would have sent without Dan's help. Dug deep and sent both crux pitches. Cleaning these was surprisingly tricky requiring many rebelays and a lower-out. Romped up the last pitch to beers on the summit with Dan and a cracker sunset! Then walked out with the help of a caffeine tablet and good chats! Cheat codes/Tricks: Getting solid on switching between double and single jumaring systems. Learning lower-outs and transitioning through rebelays. Sun protection. Lots of hydrations. Energy gels and lollies in pockets. Zinc. Sunnies for eye fatigue in sun. Kong panic draws for sections where a lead solo fall really isn't ideal. |
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Mar 12 Oct. 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor | 320m | ★ Bon | ||||
Got up to pitch 7 rope solo, then backed off due to complications related negotiating with two other parties climbing the face on either side of me. Just was getting a bit too messy up there unfortunately.
Super stoked with systems and my ability - psyched to come back when the conditions allow! Was a pretty cool experience camping up on the ridge alone and climbing on the face. Fingers crossed for a less busy day next time. |
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Dim 10 Oct. 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Didn't realise this one could be logged - keeping track of distance.
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22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p14) | 320m | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p13) | 320m | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p14) | 320m | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p13) | 320m | |||||
Didn’t feel the flow
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19 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p1) | 320m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Don’t use the tree
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20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p3) | 320m | |||||
Hard move over ledge, good holds flows
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20 | ★★ The Governor p2 | 320m | |||||
Some loose holds, nice flow though.
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21 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p7) | 320m | |||||
Nice climbing
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20 22 | ★★ The Governor (The Governor p12) | 320m | |||||
Nice crux
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Sam 9 Oct. 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Rowan Hess
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
| 320m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Wowza! This was a serious undertaking and a hard earned ascent (for me, anyways). 3 months after diving into the world of multipitches, this was a now or never moment at the end of the season. The toughest challenges of this climb were not the climb itself, but rather the approach / walk out, heat, and mental endurance. We started the hike at 3am, began climbing at 7:30am, and summited around 6pm. We camped at Old Hut (huge shout out to our support crew who hiked all our camping gear up the SE Ridge to buy us an entire day of climbing) and walked out via SE Ridge the following morning. Overall a spectacular adventure with some standout climbing that humbled me (:
Pitch 1: A truly rude introduction, I got stuck at the first bolt for a silly amount of time and encountered enough choss to warn me of the journey ahead. Pitch 2: Similarly rude with a reachy start. Ran into a bail biner! Pitch 3: A fun little climb with easy overhangs. Soft for the grade. Pitch 4: Fun, juggy, and ends at a great shady belay station! Some scary loose blocks that require good foot placement to avoid. Pitch 5: Nice little traverse. Don't forget to turn around and enjoy the view! Pitch 6: Would have been lovely if not for some reachy moves that naturally annoyed my midget self. Not fun with a heavy backpack! Pitch 7: An absolute heart-stopper that had me nervously giggling under the roof, and maniacally cackling as I pulled over it! My absolutely favourite pitch of the whole climb. The hidden bolt is pretty tricky to clip if you have short reach, but well protected once you get it. Pitch 8: Didn't find this particularly hard "off the deck", but maybe that was because I had just come off the adrenaline of the pitch prior. Loved the exposure on this. Pitch 9: I did this in my joggers instead of climbing shoes to give my feet a break. Made it way more exciting than it needed to be, would not recommend. Pitch 10: A nice jug haul. If you want to accidentally drop something out of your backpack on The Governor, I recommend doing it on this pitch so it can be retrieved from the ledge below. Had to climb this twice, I'll let you deduce why... Pitch 11: I found the traverse very difficult with short reach / height, but the rest of it was thought provoking and enjoyable. Pitch 12: Don't be a hero, go right to avoid the choss! Pitch 13: Technical and exposed with some really satisfying moves! The crux was tough as balls and I have no idea how I would have done it on lead. Kudos to my climbing partner. Pitch 14: Originally hoped to lead this but was pretty out of puff and concerned about daylight. Not sure who would describe the start as a "ramp" to the right. Definitely not wheelchair accessible and trickier than it looks! Pitch 15: A true victory lap. Overall - don't let the first few pitches discourage you, I found the middle pitches to be the best climbing with great views. A very well protected climb the whole way up, kudos to the legend who set this climb! I wouldn't have done this any later in the year, the sun / heat is merciless and will burn your toesies on the wall. Look forward to coming back next season with a little more preparation, cooler weather, and comfy shoes. I'm eyeing you, crux pitches! |
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Dim 26 Sept 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
14 | ★★ Leaning Peak North Face Route - avec henk morgans | 410m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great day out with Henk. Thanks Ryan for the updated description.. we found the start as described. We soloed the first pitch and then ropes up and did two loooong simul pitches (one each) to top out. Super fun route with great featured rock and good enough pro here and there. Reminded me a little of 'The Martian' on Beerwah in that it was great mostly low angled climbing for ages.. just a Trad version though with a harder approach haha.. we took a smidge over 10 hours car to car. Bloody great day!!
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Sam 25 Sept 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Governor - avec Alex Mougenot | 320m | |||||
Shenanigans
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Ven 24 Sept 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Brennan Bast
| 320m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Glad I layed off the darts and beers this week because this was a serious undertaking. Not so much the climbing but the long approach in and the walk out, I felt like a new born giraffe by the end of it. Some great pitches and some choss but overall a awesome adventure.
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Lun 23 Août 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Kallin Willis
| 320m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Phenomenal adventure! Camped the night before the abseil. Such an epic place to wake up and start climbing.
Thanks Alex Mougenot for the beta to hit that first shiny bolt! Saved us so much time and wouldn't have been as successful with out ya. Its still quite an amazing adventure to get your way there. Cheers! From the abseil to the nice and shiny first bolt (stoked to find this so quickly) took about 45min till the path ran out. P1 18 - quirky start with small feet and wandered a bit. P2 20 - bit loose in sections and a nice warm up P3 20 - bit of a gross mantle P4 16 - felt like a bolted trad pitch, a nice adventure route. P5 18 - stellar traverse, solid and nice and airy P6 21 - lets add some more air and get the pump going, enjoyed this P7 21 - Peri Peri! Bit tricky to read but great fun P8 18 - fridge? P9 14 - adventure P10 17 - Great views of of the ridgelines P11 21 - Legendary! Has to be experienced to be believed P12 20 - more spice than P11. Still a bit hollow in spots, was waiting for that crimp to blow but it held on! tough. P13 22 - phoar!!!! Loved this pitch....wasabi! P14 22 - Best air on the climb, mint...that bucket was unexpected p15 14 - I ran up this pitch I was so happy. Yeoooooooow! Looks like there could be some new lines or variations to the route that would go down in such a stellar position in south east Queensland. |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Oscar Bassi
| 320m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
What a wicked adventure this climb is and kudos to the blokes that bolted it. Such a stellar climb in a unique location. Some pitches were a bit average with rock quality but that just added to the fun. The top half of the route is by far the most interesting but the lower pitches are unique in their own way. Took us about 7hrs to do the climb, we did it in 9 pitches with a 60m rope.
Happy to say I only took 1 rest on the rope seconding the 1st 22 pitch (pitch 13), and oh boy what a spicy pitch it is!! A couple pitches feel a bit shorter then what is suggested but the rest seem to be on the money in that regard. This adventure was as difficult as I thought it would be with regards to logistics, timing, mental commitment and shear physical effort. But bloody hell it is well worth it all when you hit those top chains |
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Mar 13 Juil 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Backlogging some previous Barney ascents:
First time up, with Tommo, for my bday in 2021. Spent the night in rum jungle. Also still the only time I've been up West Peak! Scored a cracker sunset |
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2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Came back with Moby a week after Logans to summit and camp at Rum Jungle for his bday. Moby's first time up. Funny phone calls, smoke and cooee's on the way up. Brilliant sunset on West peak again. Super windy and drizzly at sunrise so we slept in and had a lazy descent down South.
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Jeu 8 Juil 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Jess
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
What an amazing achievement it is to have found and developed this route, deserves all the stars for such a unique line something quite rare in Australia, that actually climbs really well! First few pitches where sub par and I truly disliked the 1st pitch, though the higher you got the rock quality was amazing with fun delicate movement & more jammys then I was expecting
Although this is a sports route, it is very much a mountain climb and shouldn’t be taken lightly, with knowledge of mountain climbing and a traditional background recommended - bolting causes some bad fall potential in areas an it’s definitely R on some pitches, though I felt well protected for the most part and the choss is easily avoided if you take you time looking for the right holds This route is only going to get better the more it’s frequent Psyched! We did the route in 10pitches and I was very happy with a fall free day, on the summit at 330pm started heading down just after 420... |
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Mer 7 Juil 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Overnighted at rum jungle with Ruth, Yim, Jard and Cousin Tom. Logans with a pack is substantially harder. Nice sunset on West peak and great star-gazing at the old hut site. Sunrise with Yimin on West peak. Descended South's.
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Mer 23 Juin 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
2
20
25m
4
16
25m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | ★ Bon | ||||
Great position and adventure, terrible rock climb. Pitch 13 was the worst rock on the route and simultaneously the physical crux. I blew 5 footholds and evie ripped both handholds at the same time. This section felt 2 grades harder than pitch 14 and the friable rock made it harder again. All in all we had a wonderful day out and were completely knackered on return to the cars.
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Ven 18 Juin 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
13 |
★★ Leaning Peak North Face Route
- avec
Adam Sanders
1
13
410m
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 410m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
The crux was rock hopping down the creek bed at 2.30am after 22hrs of climbing/walking/abseiling.
Good to see what the mind can push through!
Pretty sure it's called leaning peak cause I was leaning on stuff and things the whole way to stop falling over from fatigue.
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14 | ★★ Leaning Peak North Face Route - avec Scott Birse | 410m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Turned into a bit of an epic. The climb being the easiest/most enjoyable part - the upper pitches being absolutely sublime! Rocky Creek descent by head torch was a challenge of the will. 22 hours car-to-car. Would descend Short Leaning Ridge next time for sure.
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Jeu 17 Juin 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge - avec Dmitry Linkov | 750m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
just scrambling
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Mar 8 Juin 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | ★ Bon | ||||
Up SE, down S. 6 hour round trip. First time on Barney. Epic.
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Sam 2 Jan 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Enjoyed this more than SLR - nice new year trip. 5.5hrs car to car with a lengthy stay alone on the summit
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Sam 2 Jan 2021 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge | 600m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Nice scramble, good way to bring in the new year! 4.5hrs to the East summit
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Lun 30 Nov. 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Back logging ascents up Barney. First time with Yas and Ja-Rule. Up Logans and down South-East. Got a little bit lost on one section of SE. Barefoot from the start of the rock on Logans.
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Dim 11 Oct. 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Angie
| 320m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Wild day out with my awesome friend Angie!
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Dave OS
| 320m | |||||
What a wild adventure with my wonderful friend David!
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Sam 3 Oct. 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge - avec Ryan Siacci | 900m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Approach and descent for The Governor. Lovely, peppered with orchids, paper daisies, and other flowers.
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Ryan Siacci
| 320m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
We approached The Governor with few expectations, other than anticipating a long day and perhaps some hard climbing near the top. I'm well chuffed with the outcome, with both of us onsighting every pitch and topping out after just 5.5 hours of climbing. We didn't really try to move fast or cut any corners, but nevertheless everything went super smoothly. All told, we needed 12 hours to get up and down, leaving Barney Lodge at 3am and arriving back at 3pm, all while taking a comfy break for lunch on the summit and two breaks to brew coffee.
This was a special experience in so many ways, particularly because Ryan and I assumed that it wouldn't happen this season after I busted my ankle in late July. Fortunately, recovery has been effective, and the ankle felt stable all day. Overall, a great experience with a great friend - thanks Ryan for an amazing day out (and for gifting me the crux pitches while carrying the pack)! |
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Lun 28 Sept 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice scramble that is not as straight forward as following the well-worn SER. There is a bit of a track here and there, but there are also some tracks that seem to lead to nowhere useful. Many of these dead ends seem to be more defined then the actual track as people (like us) walk them twice before getting to the real route.
All advice we came across was to stay on the ridge as much as possible (www.aussiebushwalking.com for example). I would say it is more correct to say ‘stay in visual contact with the top of the ridge’, there are points where it makes more sense to bypass isolated and exposed peaks (normally to the right of the ridge). At about 1300m (so close!) we made a mistake that took us too far right over some sketchy slabs and into the NE facing gully on the right side of the ridge. After scratching around for a while and assessing that we were on grade 5-10 climbing we back tracked down and left, back on to the track and ridge. Came down the SER. |
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Ven 18 Sept 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
1
19
25m
2
20
25m
3
20
20m
4
16
25m
5
18
15m
6
21
20m
7
21
20m
8
18
20m
9
14
25m
10
17
15m
11
21
20m
12
20
20m
13
22
20m
14
22
20m
15
14
30m
| 320m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Climbed everything but the crux move on the first 22 clean. Man oh man what a route! First big outing at this grade. Been worth the two years working towards this goal.
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Jeu 17 Sept 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
North Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ North Ridge | 650m | |||||
Used for decent. Preferred Logan’s.
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Jeu 17 Sept 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge | 600m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Awesome
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Mer 9 Sept 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Isolated Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ Eagle's Ridge | 1500m | |||||
Harder than 2 in places - depends on your line.
Fun day out. |
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Mer 9 Sept 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | |||||
used Logan’s for the decent
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Sam 29 Août 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 5 R | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge - avec Mike Meadows, Pete Shera | 600m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Definitely my new favourite way up Mt Barney! I was a bit apprehensive about the 5R rock but the slab is so textured/grippy, I felt comfortable. The rock quality also seemed pretty good to me. We roped up (belay off the grass tree) just on p7, for that exposed traverse to the left. But the holds are good and I think it'd be fine without a rope. We took option 7b after that- to the left. Exposed but with juggy holds. Super nice!
Descended via the slabs below North Peak, linked up with Eagles ridge for a bit, and then moonlight slabs and back to lower portals. Lots of loose rocks and trees lower down, so it was slow-going. The rock hopping along Barney creek is fun! Great to get so much mileage on nice rock, with fantastic views, and great company!! |
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Dim 23 Août 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge | 900m | |||||
Easier than I thought it was going to be. Got stuck behind a group who did not know what they were in for. Took 7 hours including back down the South Ridge Track and we were not in a rush. We took a short rope but did not use it.
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Mar 18 Août 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Isolated Peak | |||||||
18 | Northeast Face Direct (Unknown 2) | 300m | |||||
Got up the first pitch - which was actually really fun adventuring with a fantastic R - L traverse through some bubbly caves. Had to bail from the 2nd pitch after a bad fall and an injured ankle unfortunately. We'll be back!
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Ven 7 Août 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge | 750m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
96 mins from Yellow Pinch.
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Sam 18 Juil 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
East Peak | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Antoine Chandonnet
| 320m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
One of the most enjoyable days climbing I've ever had. Big thanks to Chando for the superb company! It's obviously important to have a strong partner, but equally if not more important to have a super positive one!
Rock quality & bolting: Found the danger/scary reputation to be quite over hyped. Imo this climb is well bolted. There are a few chossy holds, and we both ripped a few pieces off, but I don't think this characteristic alone should dissuade future punters from getting on it. The climbing: Pitch one gives a good reflection for the rest of the route, a surprising reliance on slabby/precise footwork and edging. Antoine and I found that we settled into the 'style' of the route after about 3/4 pitches, from this point forward, our climbing became a lot more fluent. The Strategy: Took two packs up to the rap in, left one there with water and food for the descent. For the climbing, we opted for the kirkpatrick approach and took one pack that was carried by the second. We found this to be quite a psychological boon, as it made the leads super appealing! 2L water each, left 2L at the rap in. If you're set on onsighting the whole thing (which is surprisingly achievable) haul the pack for the crux pitches and maybe pitch 2 (I found the pack makes stepping around the bulge difficult). Timings: 02:00 awake. 03:00 start hiking. 05:00 arrived at rap in. 07:00 started climbing. 13:00 topped out. 16:00 back at carpark. |
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22 |
★★ The Governor
- avec
Sam Pearson
| 320m | |||||
The word “epic” is generally overused, but this was indeed an epic day with an equally epic partner. Highlights include:
Onsighted every pitch except for a rest while seconding pitch 13. Overall, while it’s a more serious undertaking than your average multi and requires solid planning, it didn’t feel as daunting as its reputation suggests. Just a long and slightly committing multi. Big thanks to Sam and Kyle for figuring out the logistics perfectly, which resulted in a very smooth day. |
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Mar 7 Juil 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
South Ridges | |||||||
4 | ★★ Mezzanine Ridge | 850m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Good day out
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Mer 24 Juin 2020 - Mt Barney | |||||||
Leaning Peak | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge - avec Mark James | 600m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Woohoo! This was a great adventure and one of the hardest and longest hikes I've done. I was already pooped before we reached the start and we went a bit off track. The rock hopping section along barney creek was super beautiful. Great views all the way up the ridge and cool abseil from leaning ridge. Finding our way down North ridge was a bit challenging but satisfying each time we made slow progress down bypassing a steep section. All in all 11 hours starting and finishing at lower portals car park.
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Was so cool to do it as a solo, and so cool just to tick it off. I've written up a bit about it, there's a link below if you're interested!
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KaaosgCXBkD4ZvB9Sgwg6cACZ0z10sqzQhgyfCXCN28/edit?usp=sharing