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Résumé

Large Rhyolite columns. Routes up to 60m. Face & crack climbing. Rock is friable.

North West facing=it gets sun from mid morning.

Routes are arranged R to L, starting at the end pillars, where Legoland becomes Porn Buttress.

Description

Some nice shorter routes here; Connoisseur's Delight & Boti Bliss for example.

Limit. de l'accès

About half of the access in is across private land, please stay on the forestry track, no pets, no cairns or tape to mark the way in please.

The National Park boundary starts at the deep gully.

Approche

A rather nasty 2-2.5hr walk in - across scree slopes for the last half. See access to N.W. Columns.

Éthique hérité de Mt Maroon

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

Historique

Graphique de l'historique des voies

This section first developed by Trevor Gynther in 1973 with Connoisseur's Delight. The following year by Rick White & Paul Caffyn establishing 2 routes here & 2 on Porn Buttress. Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble established several lines here in 2005-2007, along with Lillian Sando, Robert Staszewski, Scott Camps, Joe Lynch & Brad Carmady.

Tags

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

Start: Up Connoisseur’s Delight to the horizontal break (avoids the nasty unprotected start), then around R onto face of pillar. Up this & top out on the great hand crack. Crux is above the horizontal ledge, a 6-7m run out.

FA: Robert Staszewski, Mark Gamble & David Gonzalez, 2006

Start: Up the 3rd crack line L of the ravine (see topo).

Exquisite climbing with plenty of gear. Onto the L face to avoid the vegetated start, then step in to the crack line. Take the LH crack to TB.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Steve Bell, 1973

Start: The black groove L of Connoisseur’s Delight.

Fun climbing to tree, then a chockstone & a dirty vegetated groove to top. Down climb to Connoisseur’s Delight for abseil tree.

(Onsight soloed by Rick)

FA: Rick White (solo), 1974

Start: The slab between Holocaust & Green Line.

Up the face, trending slightly Right, to crack & gear, down-climb, across Left, then up to horizontal break & some gear, up passing a knob & shallow crack to top & TB.

Small gear.

FA: Scott Camps & Mark Gamble, 2006

Start: The big chimney in the corner L of Holocaust.

Terrific chimneying up this boldly, then L thru the overhanging blocks for an exciting finish & up to TB.

FA: Paul Caffyn & Rick White, 1974

Start: The front of the pillar that constitutes Green Line.

Up the face, trending slightly Right, passing 2 horizontal breaks, then straight up, some thin cracks & gear on the Right, to a shallow crack on top & top-out.

Small gear.

FA: Scott Camps & Mark Gamble, 2006

The prominent Right leaning chimney a few metres Right of Botti Bliss.

Up the crack with good gear (slight run out in the middle), up to overhanging block & a tricky mantle to TB, makes this an exciting lead.

Start: The prominent crack line splitting the pillar just R of Micrococcus.

  1. 25m 18 - Terrific climbing up a great crack line – a three star classic.

  2. 40m 7 - Scramble/climb to top with not much protection.

Rao off tree at end of pitch 2.

FA: Joe Lynch, Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006

Start: Below the bottomless pillar on the face between Boti Bliss & Micrococcus.

Bold start up face to pillar & gear (crux), then traverse R to friable flake/crack, up this on good holds & gear to ledge, then up Boti Bliss another 10m to small rap tree.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Mark Gamble, 2006

Start: 5m Left of BB.

  1. 15m 14 - Up the lovely crack. Rap off ledge or continue up P2.

  2. 45m 14 - Continue up the L facing corner above the belay, till it peters out, then R across face below bulges into Boti Bliss & up to belay tree.

Rap off here.

Pitch 2: Terry Svingen, Mark Gamble 30.7.2006

Start: The face between PW and Micrococcus.

Up the face to ledge, then straight up wide crack. Right under roof and up corner above Micrococcus.

FA: Robert Stazewski & Terry Svingen, 2006

Start: On the RHS of the BD pillar.

From the top of the pillar, up the off-width, passing the overhang on the LHS.

Short & sweet, but pleasant climbing.

FA: Mark Gamble & Dan Roe, 2006

  1. 35m 17 - Up the offwidth on good gear, Left of the big column - see topo. Up to good ledge & tree belay.

  2. 35m 16 - Up to small overhang, over this to easier ground & top out amongst boulders. Find a tree to rap off.

Start: Just left of BD.

Up hand crack then chimney, passing offensive block to ledge. Step right 2m and finish as for BD p1 at TB.

Start: The 3rd crack line L of BD.

Up the off-width between the 2 pillars, thru small overhang to top of pillar. Has little to offer but the interesting exit move around the overhanging boulder.

Rap off the TOJJ tree.

Start: Up the cracked face L of NWN

Up the easy face following a short flake crack, finish up the not-so-nice body crack to ledge, then up to second ledge & TB.

Rap off tree.

Start: 1m R of LMF.

Bold start up to crack & gear (crux), then thin moves & gear to top of ledge & rap off here.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Mark Gamble, 2006

Start: Up the chimney L of LMF.

Top-out on same pillar. Rap off tree. Rather enjoyable chimney. Take big gear.

Start: On the face below tree Left of TOJJ. (see topo)

  1. 30m 14 - From tree up face (an 8m run-out on easy holds) to next thin gear, Left across ledge top to next corner & up this to belay from top of pillar.

  2. 35m 18 – Off the pillar & follow the line of weakness (better than it looks), up to the corner Left of the large orange overhanging block, into the crack & up large chimney (run-out), exit out left to belay from large boulders.

Rap off tree just below. Crux is getting established in the crack.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Mark Gamble, 2006

Start: Left of TOJJ

A short hand crack in the corner left of TOJJ just left of a prominent off-width. Short, but sweet!

Walk down to TOJJ tree for rap.

FA: Terry Svingen, Lillian Sando & Simon Inglis, 2006

Start: In the alcove Left of TOJJ, the hand crack Right of the big black corner.

  1. 35m 17 - Up this to small ledge, then a beautiful hand-crack up to the belay ledge.

  2. 15m 10 - Mantle the awkward boulder L of the belay, up around the arête to TB. Scramble carefully over ledges to rap tree in gully on the other side (45m rap).

Start: A few metres left of NHIMB, up the crack to the ledge.

This variant start makes the overall climb even better.

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Auteur·e·s: Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

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