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Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread).

Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.

1. 30m (24) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. The best way to do it is to start up Vespasian's Wall for 3 bolts, then traverse right into rising line of bolts. (The original grade 23 start used to have a large dead tree to stand on to reach the first holds. Now its a stick clip and awkward batman, so just do the new start which is longer and more sustained).

2. 25m (24) The right line of bolts directly above the three bolt belay. Long sustained orange wall - a couple of crazy fragile features spices things up. Finish at last good jugs at lower-off.

3. 12m (28) Link this from pitch 2. Either belay from P1 mini ledge - or the ground. Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake!

Starts 2m L of 'Pulse' up vague flake feature.

This climb has a lot to offer with a fun start to a good rest then the crux awaits. How many draws can you skip???

The first climb at DF, and widely considered to be one of the absolute best routes at any grade in the whole Blue Mountains. Giles sure knows how to pick them.

Just squeezed in but still popular for the grade. Good, funky Logan Brae climbing with some holds that seep. Some filling down the bottom, no drilling.

Boulder problem to pumpfest. Start freed by Mark Baker.

Go up Reigning Steel for 4 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall. Could be 27 according to Steve.

Start 0.5m R of B. Runout bottom half (3 bolts where Black Heathen has 6!), excellent top half.

Was once the hardest route at the crag, and was originally graded 31! Fairly quickly downgraded to a solid 28, but since then some holds have crumbled/gone, making the route more sustained, and better! Maybe still 'just' a solid 28, or maybe 29, but whatever the grade, its a bloody ripper power endurance testpiece so just get on it!

Start on the right hand side of the huge scoop near the left hand end of the railing. Please stick clip and batman - do NOT trample the vegetation.

The anchor has 2 clip-n-go captive biners. These are the dodgy cast style and need to be replaced ASAP, probably by hacksawing them off. They shouldn't be trusted in the meantime.

Third route in from the left side of the wall. The massive namesake dead tree hanging off the top of the crag is no more. Classy power-endurance route, popular with the pundits. Was a debated 27/28 for a while but many recent repeats the 28 grade has been settled. Ben

The end of another long affair. Great moves, technical with a dynamic finish. Generally considered easy for the grade, but then a hold snapped in 2011. Now its more solid, and a bugger to get a draw onto the 5th bolt.

Start: Start under the short vague arete 1m left of the Stolen corner.

Tricky slab start left of Feisty Phasmid above a small tree. Funky moves linking flakes up wall to a rest then up and out through a roof to steep headwall boulder problem.

A great resistance route with nothing too hard, the most popular 28 at Farside. A dynamic start gets you established on route, where the slow burn continues right up until the anchors.

Start 2m R of 'Equaliser'. Stick clip advisable because the first holds aren't positive and are usually wet, even if they don't look it. Wobble up onto the fence, and delicately step onto face. Up the steepening wall with each move getting a bit harder than the previous one... Lower off the huge bizarre single ringbolt with a double-coiled 6-inch eye.

Traverse. Onions start, then head R as for Tripe, then traverse the lip all the way to the right. Back jump to clean.

Start 5m right of Magnitude. Big roof. Big holds. Big moves. Harder than it should be.

Lee Cujes

The first route to be bolted on this section of wall. Heads left after the 4th bolt and then up to a bouldery crux on the lip of the roof to gain the high corner/arete.

As for Apraxia, almost to its 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem. Has a one-bolt extension through the bulge to a higher anchor, presumably an open project.

Up the boulder seam through a mini roof then classic and sustained steep wall climbing to a tricky finale.

The steep crack, hard though well protected. A Blue Mountains gem. Take double cams from 0.4 Camalot (yellow Alien) to 3 Camalot as well as single set of nuts. Double ring lower-off

MEGA! Long and steep. Starts on the steeper side of the arch (West) up the flake and climbs the entire underside of the arch, Finishes at the U bolt Anchor.

Novel tree start down and left of Hard Reset. Cruxy face leads to base of headwall and good rest. Upper section is engaging and continuous on superb rock.

Beware the evil eyes are apon you. The frost covered ground will show you the path, take gentle steps. The gorgeous rock will hold your hand your mind concerned only with the foot you must land.

Shared start with HTTBC then after the 5th bolt bam out right and up.

A great pit-link of Ebola Noodles to the big undercling flake then pump right into a hard clip on North By Northwest and continue up this into a crimpy headwall.

A 2m variant which usefully avoids some crumbled sandy holds on the original. Most people do Hairline 2000 this way.

7m left of Point Insertion, starting at small cairn. Long move into quality climbing and great rest. The flake feature above the rest requires devious beta followed by some pumpy crimping. The demise of the start tree has added an extra move at the same grade.

Great consumer climbing with plenty of good jugs and some thin, long pulls. The bolting is a bit spicy but safe.

One of the classic Mountain hardies. A good route on good rock. Start on the high ledge about 20m right of Chook Raffle. Access by climbing up near the creek. 4 bolts to ledge then the lefthand line.

The climbing and the rock is awesome, a grade harder after every move! . Hard for 28 but who wants a soft tick?

The pumper extension to Mr Magoo through the roof, the holds are good but the pump is mega.

Hard and sustained edges from half height, is considered solid for the grade now with the direct finish.

An awesome link-up featuring the easier halves of two pit 30's. Start up Circling Vultures for the mega dyno then after a brief rest step left into the top headwall crux of North by Northwest. The inverse linkup, connecting the brutal crux of North by Northwest into the less brutal crux of Circling Vultures, is an open project dubbed "Mt Druitt" (a "western circle" reference).

Classic test piece. Giles never really believed he could climb so hard. Start about 50m to the right after the waterfall. Still has some fragile rock; best to stick clip 1st bolt. Can be done only on the bolts, but a few cams are prudent (#1, 0.5/0.3, 3), as are rollers and extenders. 60m rope minimum.

Classic jugging! Sustained climbing following a great line on great rock for 40 meters!

Start: As for SKOB but keep traversing far right and up to a massive horn. Continue right for one bolt then make your way up through 3 rooflets, taking the right line of bolts. Traverse right under the final roof and finish topped out above Saturation Point.

This ones for those who like to get full value from their climbing experience. Having reached the anchors of Onions keep chugging, move right and up and finish at anchors now shared with Don't Believe the Tripe. Originally 27.

Excellent. Very thin and technical up the orange wall to a nip in the tail. Save it for a cool day. Straight up off the log.

Technical and powerful climbing directly up the wall to the L of 'Radio Baghdad'.

Start: At bottom of boulder WAP starts off.

Traverse flake-thing, quite techy on pockets and gastons.

Benjamin Cossey Jared Tyerman

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

You can get a good idea of the crux from the ground, hard moves past the first 4 draws then the great orange wall above. A hold has snapped at 3rd last bolt but there's still a good sequence.

The route is all too obvious - a bottomless chimney hanging over your head like gaping dinosaur jaws. A unique experience, not soon forgotten.

Start at big flake and head up and right over the project up the steep section to the sit down rest. Continue with trickery up the blank overhanging corner and over the thin final roof.

A mega line linking improbable features up much steepness, and a contender for one of the best at the grade in the Blueys. Partially equipped by Emil, and finished years later by Paul.

Climb The Thin Line of Reprieve on gear (#6/Wires, 0.3, 2, & 3) to first rooflet and hard to clip bolt. Then bust out a rising traverse left with wild, gymnastic moves, before continuing more directly up steep prow to no hands rest. From the rest, dyno for all you're worth, then power through sustained steep climbing for 20m to the belay.

The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.

Slightly overhanging sustained climbing up the middle of the beautiful orange wall.

The giant 45m link of P1 and P2 of Two Nobodies, offering epic pump in a gnarly location. Technically grade 28, but might as well be 29 if you factor in the faff! Proper rope shenanigans ahoy!

Climbing on two ropes is mandatory (!!!) even with a billion giant runners. The First Ascent used 3 x 60cm runners; 7 x 40cm runners, and 10 x Ordinary draws.

As for Two Nobodies P1, but at the last bolt of that pitch, instead of traversing left to gain the hanging belay (and without deviating off-route to the crap rock out right for a rest), continue straight up and into the epic P2 headwall, leading to one of the hardest moves of the route 42m up. Mantle onto big ledge, quit climbing, take up croquet.

For the full tick, avoid traversing off-route out left to the big break on P2 (at the white streak).

Finish as for Two Nobodies P3 to top out.

FrothyFirstAscent

On right hand edge of cave, 3 metres left of MacDaddy. Awesome steep bouldery climbing with a great mix of holds. A few good rests split the climbing but you really have to hang on tight to the top.

Jug the Teflon start then long reach and hard match to move into Mosquito clamps start jug and continue. Only hard for 3 moves really but rad the whole way.

Jared Tyerman

Epic!

Start a couple of metres L of AATM. Steep wall climbing past the "moonboard crux", then the mega popcorn ceiling. A few sandy holds can be avoided in the last couple of easy metres to the anchor, no biggie. Recent comments suggest it might be harder than 28, opinions welcome.

Left hand variant of TBfO. Hard crux surrounded by great climbing. Backjump or tramline to rethread the rings under the roof.

This climb is a proper bang for your buck route. It may look short but it packs in a lot of climbing and styles that is never to hard but on till the oddly place anchors. Horizontal crux down low then big moves between positive holds, with a sneaky finish..

Soft at the grade but still not an easy tick.

5m L of Basic Instinct. A boulder route with tricky sections split by ledge rests. Cool iron-cross boulder moving L under roof then up to ledge. Extremely steep elevator doors scoop section to more moderate headwall finish.

Steepness Plus. As for He Man but straight out through the roof. Great climbing through very steep terrain.

Only really 3 bolts above the first half but adds a fair amount of pump. Continue up and left from the first set of anchors. Mega.

Hard start then pumpy, rising right traverse. Given that half the route is a 3 star classic and the bottom half isnt half bad (with the exception of putting 5th draw on) , it deserves attention. Sliding the first two draws in the roof down to your belayer as you pass them will illiminate rope drag issues later on.

Start 3m L of Onions. Boulder your way up to the first link bolt of Aneurysm then straight up into Onions. Hopefully frees the Onions start up a bit.

Starts from the stone pyramid at the back of the cave. Generally steep and pumpy climbing, but with a very hard sequence off the halfway ledge, aptly named.

Unfortunately a very difficult start has to be contended with before you can enjoy the fun and sustained climbing through the roof and up the attractive headwall.

Up small wall,Boulder through horizontal roof and into orange corner via arette jug. Could be soft. Could be sandbag....depending on if your a boulderer!?

If you're planning an onsight, access per the dedicated Samarkand abseil route (see description) and take about 18 draws. If you plan to rap the route instead (slower, but you get to see what you're in for), you'll need a 130m rope. Your top anchor (DBB) is hidden 10m up and right of Samarkand's top anchor, behind grass tree. You will need a rope protector for the top edge and lots of quickdraws to clip in on the way down to stay in contact. Choosing a day with westerly breeze is recommended.

1. 12m (24) 10m R of Samarkand. A bit of a goey "good morning!" move getting past the 2nd&third, then interesting balance features. Steeper than it first appears. 5 bolts. Ledge belay (DBB).

2. 15m (28) Pull the lip, then balancy yet powerful moves past a few bolts, eventually easing to jugs and a small foot ledge for belay (DBB) in base of corner. 6 bolts.

3. 32m (27) Monster corner - the money pitch! Weaves in and out of the corner following holds and avoiding blankness. When the corner ends, there’s still a disturbing amount of climbing to go. At least three or four long slings, or more, can minimise drag on this wandering journey. Belay on ledge (DBB). 15 bolts.

4. 36m (25) The Trail Of Tears. Up through roof and the unique ‘limestone’ face above. Major ledge for belay (DBB). 16+ bolts.

5. 25m (23) Corner and short wall to finish. Anchor behind grass tree up the hill. 8 bolts.

Certain pitches were freed individually earlier, but the first ascent was done in a continuous push.

Very hard wandery face-climbing above a sucking void. Spaced (but safe) bolts and insecure moves will keep you gripped the entire way.

If it all turns pear-shaped, you can either climb out via Freedom Ring (substantially easier climbing) or ascend the fixed abseil line (if you left it in situ as per below).

ACCESS: Walk down to start of Lunch Ledge, instead of going left towards Mirrorball, go right and cross the creek to cliffline with prominent arete (Pitch 5 of Damascus). Scramble along narrow vegetated ledge left of the arete. The first set of rings is the topout of Damascus (P4). Continue left to a small cave (above huge drop-off - take care). Crawl through cave and rack up at double rap rings with a smattering of old carrots near them. Fix 70m rope to bolts and rap off into the void (down the Abandoned Giles Project) - kick on the way down to stay in contact with the rock. About 30m down is an old set of FHs - best to clip one of them to stay connected to the rock. Eventually touch down on large ledge with a couple of small banksia trees. This ledge is big enough to walk around on without roping up.

Walk right along the ledge to a single ring belay, lead or self-belay across to the rings 3m further right (top belay of Damascus P1).

1. 15m (24) 7 bolts - From the belay at the end of Damascus Pitch 1, traverse right and up small right-facing flake with very bouldery moves at the start (consider pre-clipping the first 2 or 3 bolts!), then easy moves trending right to ledge belay.

2. 35m (28) 13 bolts - Up extremely sustained thin and dynamic face, with a long and very demanding crux to gain cruisy flake feature. Steel yourself for an easier but rather gripping finish. Semi-hanging belay.

3. 20m (22) 8 bolts - Step left off the belay, and traverse to join the end of Damascus P3 (be careful -no additional bolts). Link this into Damascus P4 to reach the top.

3m left of Waylander, start at Gritstone slab/layback. Recommend to stick-clip first bolt. Bouldery crux at first roof (permadraw) and then a further 28m of fine, pumpy and varied climbing.

The route right of Angiotension. Good steep sustained climbing with a dynamic finish. New crux beta = new grade. Gifted to Gary from HK.

A sustained and technical power-endurance crimpfest leading into The Hornet.

From the walk-in terrace rap from first set of anchors (as you approach) down IFP, fixing as you go or directly down from middle anchors. 75m rap to comfortable ledge.

Finish as for The Hornet or jug out.

DELETE THIS PLEASE

10m left of the Birdcage. First pitch can be used to access the ledge above.

1. 35m (22) Long ringbolted slab with mossy start. Belay on ledge.

2. 20m (28) Headwall above.

Start off the large cairn and head straight up the left side of the arete and wall above to some long moves. Has a couple of runouts but on quite easy moves. From the 2nd bolt to the top crux bolt is good 24-25 mileage climbing, if using the easier sequences through half-height.

Similar to 'Gorgon' in grade and nature. Again most of the climbing is free.

Start: 'Trident' cracks on left wall of 'Leviathan' corner

The Wipe Out extension. A very impressive line through the biggest part of the huge roof above Wipe Out, 40m above the ground. Take a collection of long slings and roller biners. Back-jump to clean or top out, untie and leave your draws there! Considered 29 if linked from the ground.

Bypasses the top crux of Mr Universe by traversing right into Mr Carpet Burn and then climbs back across the jugs at the top of MCB to the chains of MU. Some have climbed this thinking they were doing MU but in fact missed the crux of MU. Still a fun outing nonetheless.

Stu Rhys

An outstanding, naturally protected line up the obvious weakness through right side of the cave. The first half was originally climbed by Greg Child (and co) at grade 23 to the small stance just before the angle begins to steepen dramatically. From this point things get pumpy and you will need to draw on your bouldering nous. After the business is over be prepared for a longer-than-expected head wall above.

Link-up of the first half of Snout Counter and the top half of God's Gift to Wart Hogs at a moderate grade. Long pumper on mostly big holds with 3 little boulder problems.

Activate Baby. The first route you come to when arriving at the crag (hint: look straight up). Bolted ground up on lead by Macca and Vinnie. Directly above where the track hits the crag. 2 meters right of One on One Up obvious slab to the overhanging corner. Left to arete, up and right to top, then jump.

Intense and athletic blast through much steepness. Pronounced crux at second bolt took many shots before hold was dry and heel stayed put. Consider bringing a small blowtorch if its not windy. Stick clip first two ubolts in roof. A small belay bolt keeps rope out of the way also.

Access as if you were walking to Jimmy Cliff, but when you drop into the (second) creek and come up the other side, don't go R along the path, instead go straight up to a smooth rock pillar/shelf under the roof. Stickclip high first bolt, then truck left along the rail to set up for a knee-related crux on Nowra-like stone. Then take it to the top. A roller on the belay bolt helps with boinking.

Starts as for BOB and SIAST but sticks to the right arete and tops out via cool sculpted holds

4m R of T. Warwick sent it. Giles sent it. Maybe they are qualified to edit description. A fine route likely to wound egos. Recently rebolted.

Climb up IHST to the last bolt, then continue slightly right all the way up to the anchor of Soak up the Atmosphere. A 65m rope only just gets you to the ground.

24 climbing to ledge then wrestle with the holds and the bad feet to the anchors.

Awesome new 20 move problem with a dynamic crux at the start and solid rock nearly the whole way. Starts on the big pocket of Say Ahhhhhhh, a couple of easy start moves set you up for a big move out left from a bad off angle right before joining Hopes In Slopes..

Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Climb Sloth Roof but keep going past the anchor for another 10 meters of mind blowing journey through a ceiling with tufa looking ironstone features. Ends a the opposite wall when your feet land onto a ledge after just another incredible 180 deg feet first cut loose.

8m consistent overhang in 17m of height. Very well protected finger crack topping out the cliff. Very clean. Only one jug after the low first crux, then pumpfest on fingerlocks, then a last crux pinching the dyke to pumpy easier few metres. Top out past DRB anchor. Shady in summer, sunny in winter.

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Short version of Palomino, to the roof then step R to Ristretto anchor. Not significant by Elph standards but would be the best route at many Mtns crags.

Stand start on jug rail under rooflet and dyno up to juggy sloper around lip.

Landing isn't as bad as it looks

Starting on far left of wall just right of handover rope. Boulder up under roof, reach through to big jug on arete. Bouldery sequence to ledge. Traverse left and up as it steepens into the technical crux. If that goes well, make your way up and left, navigating around the huge flake feature and final big move to top out. 10 bolts to lower off.

Big move off undercling down low and huck to monster jug rail. Past hole to right side of rooflet. Up on edges to ledge and final wall to top out. Dynamic climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Same starting hold and finish hold as the five but you head left and punch the lip on small crimps. In the small cave on the left of the amphitheatre

Outrageous climbing on a 36º angle!! Bomber gear that is easy to place, with a few sections of committing climbing. Be aware of the big ledge !!! DBB.

Cool jumpers and wooly lockin'.strip clubs the world over will sing your praise.

Big span needed on this one...

Links Force Cannon into Farkenright. Climb all of the hard bit of FC to the horizontal break just before the ledge. Now bust directly right via a tricky boulder, then across the break to the hourglass hold, continuing R as per Farkenright. Lots of roof climbing!

In the mini cave from the back ledge head out the roof via pinch and blobby bulge Mega Classic

Norry admittedly has 'no idea' what grade it is...i suspect its got a very hard crux. Straight up Finishing at BIB anchor.

Same start as 'Charged' but continue straight on the face instead of going R.

If 'Sail Away' is a cruise then do the 10m extension to the top of the cliff past 4 or 5 more clips. Step R at SA's final bolt to clip the first bolt on the extension and up the steepening face. Despite appearances from below, this extension only climbs the face above SA, it doesn't touch the big roof.

After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman.

Starts just left of Seamstress then a big leftward swing and finish up easier head wall. Thin and technical.