Voies trad dans Central Coast

Short slightly overhanging crack to single u bolt lower off

Offwidth on L side of wall. U bolt at top.

On the wall left of the chimney, right hand slanting crack

Start as for BB but stay right in hand crack up nose. Some good hand size cam placements. A few carrots to finish as for BB

Just outside the main orange overhang. Up the crevasse with hex bolts and small cams

2mts R of Blind Faith. Mixed gear. Same anchor as for Blind Faith.

Start same as Daily Bread and straight up the L leaning crack. 2 U-bolts then cams to the top. Lower offs

Mixed bolts and gear, ends at same anchors as Mr Creosote

Scary Second pitch/extension to Flying circus .

Plug 1 and 1.5 friend in pockets to right then launch out roof on OK but thin holds and iffy mantle to tree. Carefull off the flakes on the mantle. lower to pythons anchor. Falling will hurt, would be 2* with bolts.

Obvious crack to the left of the cave. Lower off at top.

Corner crack next to fatigued corn chips, good beginner Trad route with slabby face and some finger locks or jams with some crimps, tricky top out to tree belay or rapp off

2m right of hexylent, Jam and smear your way up the crack definitely a wrestle fest with crux after crux with a super fun kneebar move into mantle and tree as lower off or anchor, top rope access to the right of of climb

Up through the cave following the small crack

Dirty "Chimney" in the corner

Jam your way up to the top using the right side crack. Cams to protect the start, small nuts midway, and some tiny cams under the final ledge before pushing for the top.

Build your own anchor at the top. Second to clean or retrieve anchors via the gully further East.

Closed Project

The left crack finishing up in the cave. Ring bolts for anchors.

The right crack finishing up in the cave. Ring bolts for anchors.

Up and trend right to double ring bolt anchors in the roof.

Crack to the right of the chimney. Has ring bolts for anchors.

A fun traverse link up starting with a couple of wires in 'Hand crack' and 'Finger crack' on the left hand end of the wall, then using the first bolt of 'Kids Cruise', the second bolt of 'Slab Slapper' and the third bolt of 'Superstition'. Fun way to get used to traversing

On the east wall of the corridor, the left of 2 cracks going up to tree. Anchor off large tree, be sure you use soft material to protect tree from slings.

On the east wall of the corridor, the thin crack going up to tree.

The first climb you come to after leaving the main track and contouring along the base of the cliff towards the caves. There are 4 routes just before the first honeycombed cave. Climb the chimney to ledge and step onto face following seam and flake (wires) with small cams in horizontals. U bolt on platform above route.

WARNING: Gear placements are not solid, rock is soft and feels a lot harder than a 15!

Bridge up between walls to slightly tricky finish. Preplace anchor off tree to avoid sketchy leaf littered finish.

Left of IITM. Wandery. Up leftward ascending slab onto ramps, then up and right to last overhang. Muscle over this to top.

Start: Below overhanging off width corner at left end of wall. A gutsy little climb. Straight up the corner. Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979

Large crack that splits the main wall.

2m right of M. 4 BRs and mid sized friends.

Below right side of blunt arete at north end of Mohamed Wall. Named for what you'd need if you miss the first clip. 3 BRs, #3.5 friend and wires.

Short corner at left end of Stuff Wall.

Start as for D. Straight up. 1 BR, small friends.

Follow the crack up and over the top.

Ring bolts at the top, albeit positioned for another climb so hard to clean. Bringing second up would be better.

Start over to the right of the wall, up to the horizontal seam, then traverse left to exit up the crack as Flakey Stuff.

Straight up the steps and over the top.

There are anchors at the top if you'd like to set-up a top rope, or you can simply walk off the top. A single cam protects the break halfway up.

Up high corner about 20m left of MC, then break out left onto wall and up slab above.

Start as for Knife Edge, but follow the vertical seam up, then straight up to top out. Carrots for anchors.

Start as for Roundabout. Veer left to arete. #2.5 friend protects start then 3 BRs to triple BB belay. Retrobolted by David Forbes and Gary Hamilton, 2002

3m right of Roundabout. Clip BR to start, right over ledge then upward right through juggy overhang. 1 BR, 2 RBs and #0.5 friend below top.

At rotten roof left of Roundabout, with black corner above. Delicately up frail holds under roof. Over this then follow bulging corner to top.

7m left of S. Easily up corner.

Overhanging groove 6m left of GC. Up groove, right up walls to top. Take care of loose blocks suspended by tree.

Corner 6m left of TM, just past rotten cave. Up groove then onto wall. Left into corner then follow your nose to the top.

Start as for Catalyst, but instead of going left, follow the right hand crack to the top. A gutsy little lead.

Bring second up to clean from tree.

Large corner 12m left of TC. Grovel left at the top.

2m right of WNW. Over bulge. Gnarly second clip if you're short. 2 RBs, 1 BR, #1.5 friend below top.

An obvious large, dirty and often wet crack. Bring a range of friends and some absorbent cloth.

Left juggy side of the steep slab. Trend up slabs past tree and more slabs to top.

10m left of SI. Up steep wall.

2m left of AY. Straight up wall on good holds.

6m left of TM at tree growing out of crack. Straight up crack and overhang above.

The crack at the right hand end of the undercut section at the bottom left of the Black Slab.

The crack 20m right of 'Granuous'.

The twin cracks 7m right of 'Excrescense'.

Left of windblown cave below large bulging wall. Strenuous. Up good crack and chossy crack to small cave. Over roof (thin) and up to Xanthorrhoea. Wander up the chimney behind.

Small corner below right arete of windblown cave. Up corner, over bulge to arete. Up into squeeze cave then exit left.

As for 'The Liar' but exit right to the Xanthorrhoea.

The wide, right facing corner with the stump of a small tree at the base, 30m right of chossy caves.

Line of scoops 5m right of 'Plaster Cast Crack'. Up to roof then hand traverse left to join 'Plaster Cast Crack'. Protection looks dubious.

Very thin crack 15m right of 'Mightor'. Harder than it looks. Up over ledges and move diagonally right near top.

Marked. Black undercut wall 20m left of camping cave. Up to the Xanthorrhoea.

The obvious orange corner in camping cave. Up nice corner to ledge. Can optionally belay here, then downclimb to the right or continue up unappealing blocky wall above (P2).

Up as for 'Irongut' P2 to chossy cave, then traverse left. Note: was not completed on FA due to lack of protection.

Left hand vegetated gully of Great Grey Wall. Solid tree belay.

Up gully (Beginner's Climb) for 5m then step right and follow the finger crack, still "partially vegetated " after 40 years. Excellent wires in crack. Tree belay 4m back.

1m right of 'Suzy' Up (thin) left of flared chimney then move right to the final crack on 'Layla'.

Head directly up chimney 1m right of 'Bionic Chook', then up the crack above.

10m right of L at short, thin flake. Good sustained climbing, but the upper crux is very runout. Follows a direct line up the highest section of the Great Grey Wall, stepping slightly right near the top to the rounded groove. Take a good selection of cams from aliens up to number 4 Camalot size, and I'd recommend that you place a number of equalised midsize cams in the obvious break at about 1/2 height, since they protect the next 7m or so of climbing (including the upper crux). Tree belay 20m back from the edge. Named after the cocktail that was shared by the first ascentionists after Ron came within a whisker of winging off the upper crux on the FA!

10m right of 'Tequila Powerade', below weakness in middle of the walll. Not bad. Deceptively tricky and sustained climbing up the weakness. When it peters out (at about 15m) traverse right for 7m to a ledge and a short rounded chimney. Up this to a tree belay. Desperately needs a direct finish (a line veering off to the left at the top will probably go).

8m right of 'Farewell Miriam'. Up to chossy break in overhang, then move left 2m and up smaller weakness. Up then join traverse of 'Farewell Miriam'.

Up groove and crack to overhang as for 'Brooce' then move left and up through obvious break. Follow crack with tree to top.

Start 2m right of Gibson. Mantle lower ledges and up to corner to good pro in orange crack. Avoid football size loose blocks at top of corner, lay away flake and over roof to the right. Massive horizontal branch belay.

Slanting corner crack around corner right of 'Tango'.

Obvious square corner high on wall. A good climb. Up face to ledge, traverse right 3m then up to corner. Up this to the top.

On rock 5m left of 'Branches of the Almighty'. Hand traverse left to the lower ledge on the arete. Up to next ledge. Traverse right to the base of the thin crack in the centre of the wall. Aid up this until it widens, then free to top.

Obvious clean corner in centre of cliffline. A great climb. Straight up the corner. Unless you have tube chocks, the last gear is at about half height, which puts you on a 15m ground fall through the crux (a rounded, insecure layback right near the top).

Up corner to ledge with garden. Follow this for 8m then up the arete at end (unprotected). Start: as for 'Branches of the Almighty'.

1. Up thin crack to base of flake. Strenuously up flake to cave. Walk 7m right to piton belay.

2. Continue along ledge to base of small corner above. Follow this to the top. Start: the thin flake 3m right of 'Branches of the Almighty'.

1. Up corner to cave (piton belay).

2. As for 'Fragile'.

Start: Corner 7m right of 'Fragile'.

1. Move diagonally up towards tree, then move left to cave.

2. As for 'Fragile'.

Start: 1m right of Gilmour's Gout

Up undercut overhung groove to small cave. Traverse delicately left and up to tree and cave. Pull over roof directly above tree then up ramp to top.

Start: 8m right of Lillee's Luck.

Up the chimney and crack in left hand wall. Tree belay.

Start: 10m right of 'Calm Before the Storm'.

Up crack and wall directly above.

Start: 7m right of 'Uranus'.

Peg left under roof to corner. Nut up this then free up blank wall. Finish up 'Callous Crack'.

Start: 2m right of 'Callous Crack'

Break in face 13m left of cave with shells. Up pleasant crack to tree belay.

A large rock sits over the top of the wall. Up crack in corner, then move right onto face and up to the right of the capstone.

Start: at base of wall 5m left of 3 sided square gully.

Step up into crack, then delicately onto face and up pleasant flared chimney.

Start: 1m left of 3 sided gully below roof and face forming thin chimney.

Left hand corner crack of 3 sided square gully.

The central crack in the 3 sided square gully.

CLOSED PROJECT

Starts on right side of chossy cave on The Contortionist P2 ledge. Mixed climbing.

Abseil in as for The Contortionist. On ground level, walk right (facing in) ~20m to start just left of small cave.

Bolts and gear. BD 0.3 - 3 used for FA.

1. (30m) Mixed - 22 - Trend up and right past 3 bolts to double crack system with good cams. Continue straight up past a couple more bolts, traversing right after the scoops along grassy ledge. Straight up crack with gear to DBB on ledge.

2. (25m) Sport - 23 - Bridge overhanging corner to gain thin flake over bulge. Move up small edges trending towards the arete. Traverse delicately right to a tricky crux guarding the anchor. Semi-hanging chain belay.

3. (25m) Sport - 20 - The price of admission. Move left and up into chossy cave. Clip fixed tat and bolt, then mantle onto platform. Traverse left and up on slopers to a botanical and balancey finish.

4. (20m) Mixed - 16 - Straight up blocky corner with good gear. A bolt protects the scramble to the lunch ledge. DUB on top of block.

5. (15m) Sport - 21 - Straight up the right side of arete to a break, followed by crux on great orange rock. DBB over the bulge. Can lower off to the lunch ledge or top out and walk around.

Up the face to cave at 2/3 height then final headwall