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Butt Muncher Buttress

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 27
  • Ascensions : 39
  • Aka: BMB

Saison

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Description

Why are the best walls the furthest from the car park? The obvious headland of quality wall of good rock in a beautiful setting that can be seen when walking past the shit farm.

The east-facing (seaward side) columns and top of this buttress have been weathered into rounded, grey, very rough high-friction rock that looks a bit like pumice but is much harder. A geologist may confirm this may be due to saline decomposition of the xenoliths, xenocrysts and phenocrysts in the vesicular latite. Needless to say natural protection abounds, vertically mostly small wires and cams, with larger items on top.

The south-facing rock appears smoother and somewhat less weathered, with the bolted climbs up fused or smaller cracks. Further inland, the columns are hard and less "porous" but actively shattering, and are topped with a horrible mass of loose cream-coloured gravel.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Bombo Quarry

The Southern areas of the quarry including the Sewerage Treatment Plant (STP) are owned by Sydney Water, with the Eastern area of this leased to Kiama council for public recreational use. The Northern section is owned by the Department of Environment, Industry and Planning, also for recreation use. The bulk portion of the quarry and climbable areas are covered by a State Heritage conservation order (Ref: #177).

While the area is well used by locals and tourists, there is no official opinion on climbing (??), and new routes should be climbed with due discretion and regard for public presence and the State Heritage listing.

Approche

Refer to geo map and and walk to base as for Bombo boulders, then up to a small ledge above an inlet.

For the top, follow the regular detailed signs "to HEADLAND", or scramble up from base via loose eroded footpath.

Descente

Descend from the top to bottom of the headland via a steep loose eroded footpath a short distance west of the buttress (take care), or down easy pillars on the northeast side facing the sea. Step across the inlet below BM if the tide and waves are low!

Éthique hérité de Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Historique

Graphique de l'historique des voies

There is only one route in this area described in the 1983 Big B guide: Anzac Walk (17) 20m

"To get to this baby, walk around the reef on the headland looking for a large pillar with a couple of cracks splitting it up the sides; this route is the right crack up the biggest pillar.

  1. Up the crack, watch out for seagull shit on some of the ledges.

FA: D. Jaws Three, Thomas, Muir & Hill."

From the description, this could be next to Butt Muncher (up the biggest pillar), or in fact be No Pressure (watch out for seagull shit on some of the ledges).

Tags

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

8m left of Self isolation. A short scramble up to a 6m crack. Crack is well protected. The rock surrounding the crack is quite weak and will crumble. Climb with caution and jam as much as you can. Caution: Top has been cleared of loose rocks but there is still some weak rock on top that might dislodge. Top out to the left of the crack.

Named after my first climbing partner and friend Justin, who took his own life in 2018. Hopefully a good reminder to check in on those we care about.

Alerte Protections: Bad bolts

Start at obvious hand crack then trend right past 3 rusty bolts to double FHs (no mailons or biners on these - so no way of lowering off).

FA: Match & Matt Cleaver, 26 Mars 2020

Rebolted, closed project.

FA: Andrew Anderson

Under development. Will be bolted. For now it's easy to top rope using various anchors at the top.

Not as fun to climb as Butt Muncher but still good. Will have some friable holds until it gets more traffic.

Consistent climbing to a tricky finish.

FA: Simmo, 25 Nov. 2020

The original classic on this buttress - great technical climbing up the columns with a distinct crux in the middle. The old 304 stainless bolts broke under load (!) and were replaced in 2020.

FA: Andrew Anderson.

Line of bolts right of BM. Fun line that has a changing corners vibe to it. Two rings to lower off.

FA: Match, 24 Mars 2020

Traversing line starting off the ledge. Can lower of TTOTUA Anchors

FA: Match & Matt Cleaver, 5 Avr 2020

Easy lower crack, then straight up the fine steep corner crack to trad belay.

Nice fun climbing up to the cone then an thin crux on small gear! Trad Belay

FA: Match & Matt Cleaver, 5 Avr 2020

FA: Match & Matt Cleaver, 5 Avr 2020

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Mer 26 Avr
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