Why are the best walls the furthest from the car park? The obvious headland of quality wall of good rock in a beautiful setting that can be seen when walking past the shit farm.
The east-facing (seaward side) columns and top of this buttress have been weathered into rounded, grey, very rough high-friction rock that looks a bit like pumice but is much harder. A geologist may confirm this may be due to saline decomposition of the xenoliths, xenocrysts and phenocrysts in the vesicular latite. Needless to say natural protection abounds, vertically mostly small wires and cams, with larger items on top.
The south-facing rock appears smoother and somewhat less weathered, with the bolted climbs up fused or smaller cracks. Further inland, the columns are hard and less "porous" but actively shattering, and are topped with a horrible mass of loose cream-coloured gravel.
The Southern areas of the quarry including the Sewerage Treatment Plant (STP) are owned by Sydney Water, with the Eastern area of this leased to Kiama council for public recreational use. The Northern section is owned by the Department of Environment, Industry and Planning, also for recreation use. The bulk portion of the quarry and climbable areas are covered by a State Heritage conservation order (Ref: #177).
While the area is well used by locals and tourists, there is no official opinion on climbing (??), and new routes should be climbed with due discretion and regard for public presence and the State Heritage listing.
Refer to geo map and and walk to base as for Bombo boulders, then up to a small ledge above an inlet.
For the top, follow the regular detailed signs "to HEADLAND", or scramble up from base via loose eroded footpath.
Descend from the top to bottom of the headland via a steep loose eroded footpath a short distance west of the buttress (take care), or down easy pillars on the northeast side facing the sea. Step across the inlet below BM if the tide and waves are low!
Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.
Graphique de l'historique des voies
There is only one route in this area described in the 1983 Big B guide: Anzac Walk (17) 20m
"To get to this baby, walk around the reef on the headland looking for a large pillar with a couple of cracks splitting it up the sides; this route is the right crack up the biggest pillar.
FA: D. Jaws Three, Thomas, Muir & Hill."
From the description, this could be next to Butt Muncher (up the biggest pillar), or in fact be No Pressure (watch out for seagull shit on some of the ledges).
Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.
Nathan Mas-Stephens et James Manson dans Self Isolation 17 - BB-SelfIsolationForTwo.JPG
Ben Sirmais dans ★★ No Pressure 18 - BB-NoPressure-Ben3.JPG
Butt Muncher Buttress - Bombo-ButtMucherButtress.JPG
Nathan Mas-Stephens dans ★★ No Pressure 18 - BB-NoPressure-Nathan3.JPG
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