Voies bloc dans Binalong

The most obvious line that strikes you as you make your way up to the boulders. This line takes the incipient seam with insecure crack holds and the arete upwards (using the crack/boulder to the left if you need to). And it's overhung too. Very tensiony, technical but not too powerful moves for the grade.

Very nearly saw a FA on the first visit to it, but Bruno had a brainfreeze. Grade varies depending on how you approach it. The further you go out left with your body and the more you use the arete, the easier it gets. The purest line sent so far uses two holds on the arete, two sections of the seam and tops out direct with feet on the front of the boulder. It's possible there's a much harder climb for someone with finger(nail)s of steel using just the seam.

A two-move wonder, on a 30 degree overhung boulder (more like 40 for the sit). Start with left hand in the incut undercling (pretty good) and right hand in the notch. Right foot on a half-toe foetus of an incut, then shift your left leg up to a sideways heel hook. Deep breath then dyno up to a sloper ledge. Hold it right at the end of the slopers and match, and you can drop off, or you can keep going for the full route and scare yourself silly. Around V6.

The sit start goes a few ways, though it's spoiled pretty badly by the rock right underneath which makes the sit pretty annoying to execute. Other variants are recorded, for the V6 start sitting on the boulder or just stand start using the undercling.

Sit start from the underclings and up.

Head up the obvious feature.

Sit start then head up through a fair sized move.

Sit start on slopers then up. First move harder than the rest.

Sit start at very bottom of crack, up and left

Pleasant little crack.

Left hand variant to 'Limpy McCrippleton'. Boulder up and over the sloper rail with a few deadpoint moves and some very interesting footing. This is your first point for gear. Bring some mats or a spotter if you don't want to go rolling down the hill. Up and through the weakness to the top.

Start low right next to 'Magoo' then up and left to top out.

A reasonably difficult leftways-leaning crack that won't take jams all the way. Hard start, quite technical. Difficulty depends on whether you can manage a high step for the first move. Otherwise the feet are atrocious!

Couple metres away from 'The Breakdance Kid' boulder. A very surprising little sit start that looks dead easy but requires some technical heel hooking and is pretty bodymorphic and hippy. Take whatever grade it feels like because it'll vary depending on your size.

Sit start on the bottom of the rail moving up, try and use only the rail before moving to the top. Fun if you are waiting for a pad.

Sit start on first two juggy side pulls then left along the arete and top out same as for Ebola Boulder.

One hard move off an incut sidepull and a small nodule of rock to easy moves to make the top. The classic 'where do I put my feet' granite style...

Found on the side of the boulder to the left of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder, when looking uphill. 'Oh, this should be a nice little warmup' ... Apparently not. Grading is honesty based - if you start too high up, this is more like V2. Start with your feet as low as possible using the notch for your right hand and side-cling for left hand. danger - be careful of the massive flake, it may detach! I may reinforce it.

Start up the crack then trend left. Slightly vaguer holds.

An overhung crack (by 20+ degrees) - short but a bit goey as it's not very jammable. An awesome line worth jumping on though, quite technical.

Sit start right on two side pulls then to undercling and left through the middle of the boulder to top out.

Traverse the boulder from right to left then top out for 'Ermagawd'.

Sit start and up. Easy.

Sit start. Some good holds but it's still tricky getting off the ground with the poor feet available. You can easily make this harder but if you do it right it should be a 0. One of a group of good warmups for the harder stuff down the hill.

Sit start.

Bring your kids.

Another kid-friendly boulder. Bit shaky though, perhaps they should wear proper rock shoes.

Like a big warm hug.

Up the crack. Bit of a poor landing if you have difficulty topping out.

Straight up the crack-line looking longingly at the blank overhung face next to you.

Just a warmup, nothing special. Up through easy moves following the crack to the top, do some laps if you feel like it.

Sit start on side pull and crimp. Straight Up.

Heal hooking sit start. Wrench on it up to the crimp on the left then up with the right.

Hard low sit start then up to slopey top out.

Up through thin feet and hands to a juggy topout.

Technically tough moves and very physical with a real head check topout.

Through a brutal tall person sit start into the crack, where it eases off to V6ish (v6 for the stand) to the top. Shorties probably won't be able to apply, unfortunately, though you could use the cheater block which makes it a number of grades easier.

Sit start, cruisy after the first moves.

Undercling sit start. Up using only the crack.

Start on left most part of undercling flake then traverse right and up.

Up over the slab.

Straight up the crack. Overhung, but far easier than it looks.

Chop this! Up from a sit along the right side through slopers. Could be extended through the cave for a fun variant, if you don't mind the sheep poo.

An unfortunate chimney start owing to a lack of holds bar two well-spaced pockets that won't get you anywhere. From there, a traverse across the face on a rail will get you to safety. It's not the lowest climb around though... A few deep breaths on all counts when this was sent.

Flash first ascent. Can you put your foot to your ear? Sit start right under the overhang on poor pinches and rails and top out. It's not over once you're off the ground...

Sit start on big side pull. Straight up on jugs.

Sit start (stand V1) and up, topping out either left or right.

Really the direct version. Straight up on good, but quite spaced holds.

Up and top out. A slab.

Up the right side of the slab through easier terrain.

Head up the slab.

Straight up on the largest holds for Buddeh rather than left.

Straight up from underclings. Contrived, because there's jugs just above...

A shorter warm-up for the area, head straight up the off-widthy crack to a low topout.

Stand start on a reasonable size pocket for your right hand and a smaller pocket or crimp for your left. High step if you can for an easier start on the incut/remains of the flake. Head up for a good incut rail then left and done.

Up past a nice flake from a sit start. Another warmup.

Up the slab, avoiding the sides.

Slabbing again! Balancy but not hard.

Sit start. Your choice of a half-pad crimp, off-angle shallow pocket or a mono for your hands. Up to a jug then top out. Stand a lot easier, V2ish.

Sit start hanging from the sloping edge. Pop up to volume hold on the right, get your footing and fang it up with the right again to the sloper edge. Grab the jug with your left hand and make your way up and over to the top out.

Same start as 'The Breakdance Kid' on the sharp juggy sidepull, but instead moving left from the start to a chunk of removed rock that has obviously come off. From there you finish up 'Undercling and up' on whatever holds are left of the climb.

From the far left of the boulder, traverse above the crack line on slopers. Two ways to do this - easier if you go up to the rail and then the chicken-head, harder if you match at the low, poor incut then go straight out right for a pinch. Top out.

Bit height dependent as to the grade. Up through a compression move is closer to 3, or work to the high step first and it's more like 2. Good moves.

Techy sit-start with a bunch of holds facing the wrong way.

Straight up the highest part of the boulder

Start on two crimps on the face (hard start) then up and over. Arete is out.

Left side slab to peak

Sit start jug on the right/high side of the boulder. Pull onto slab up and over.

Straight up through ever smaller footers.

Sit start as for 'Shartitude' and execute an insanely big dyno from there to the sloper dish, WITHOUT ANY INTERMEDIATES. From there, an easy topout. This is a German word which indicates follow-through.

Sit start and traverse right along underclings then up via hard lock-off in pocket. Very bad feet. May be easier if you're short.

Up the arete from a stand. Hold that left sidecling!

Up the slab through some slightly more balancy holds, topping out left of 'Taken For Granite'.

Sit start left side arete.

Start obvious feature up to bright green lichen.

Up and over, nothing amazing.

Brain the size of a planet, and I'm stuck bouldering... Start holds are left hand sidecling and right hand pinch (sit start).

Up laybacking the flake with feet to the right then topout.

Not wonderful. Enough holds to get up, use it as a warmup. The boulder to the left of the tombstones facing up the hill.

Near to the tombstones themselves (up and right when looking up the hill). From a sit start, huck a biiiig move to the top.

Up the arete.

Sit start using the rail.

Right hand follows flake. Up and over.

Sit start and move left to the rail.

Flashed on the first ascent. Start on a crimp rail and crimp sidepull. Tension your way across right and then up to finish as for Omo. Technical and fingery.

Start far right with hands high and feet low, quickly drop left through uber jug and then up and over at far left.

Sit start. Up through a flake (photo's already old, some of the flake got destroyed) then top out. Another warmup. Other side of the boulder from 'Mossy Ferguson'.

Nasty sit-start off holds facing the wrong way, though a goodish sidepull for the right hand, reach the high rail with your left hand and head on up with a fridge hug friction move.

Up using the right side arete. For best value, huck a big throw to the top from as low as possible.

Sit start and up the left side with big jugs to help you.

This climb shed more holds than you'd think possible. Up from a fairly horizontal position (sit start) using some ankle strength to get you to the top. Pretty contrived, big rock in the way.

Fridge hug your way up using both aretes.

From the same start as 'Pinky Flapper', reach up to the pocket and vague pinch and get your feet set. A fair sized move out to a small incut sidepull, then up using friction and mantle on good holds.

Up the balancy slab to an airy topout.

Sit start with hands wide on side pulls and up. Awesome climbing.

Sit start at the left end of the boulder with poor feet. Use very poor sloper holds to establish a heel hook, then head out right, through a difficult move which will require you to cut feet. The rock just below the traverse is out.

Straight up the front of the boulder, through the pocket and out. Easy.

Sit Start on BIG jugs. Straight up.

Hard 4 or easier 5, bit difficult to say. Some balancy moves on small foot and hand holds will get you to a finish jug. If you have enough energy, execute.

Sit start on right end in little corner. Work way up right arete.

Start as for Brown, traverse left and up along rail to finish up Tiger.