The most obvious line that strikes you as you make your way up to the boulders. This line takes the incipient seam with insecure crack holds and the arete upwards (using the crack/boulder to the left if you need to). And it's overhung too. Very tensiony, technical but not too powerful moves for the grade.
Very nearly saw a FA on the first visit to it, but Bruno had a brainfreeze. Grade varies depending on how you approach it. The further you go out left with your body and the more you use the arete, the easier it gets. The purest line sent so far uses two holds on the arete, two sections of the seam and tops out direct with feet on the front of the boulder. It's possible there's a much harder climb for someone with finger(nail)s of steel using just the seam.
21 Avr 2012 | Première ascension: Constantine Carluen |
---|---|
11 Août 2012 | Première ascension: David Nott |
V4 to V5 | Cotation(s) agréée(s) par la communauté |
V4 ** | ★★private |
NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.
NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.
KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.
Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.
Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.
Overall quality 83 from 2 ratings.
Sur base d'évaluations 1.
Sur base d'évaluations 1.
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
Login to see the timeline!