Voies dans Australie

9a+ Route. 44+ Moves. Start as for Short Fuse, reversing Anger Management finish as for Supercharged (Centrelink Sponsorship into Major Lightweight). Some serious nec level climbing. R. Hofmann

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "in the Grampians" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

https://vimeo.com/139677877

Please help locate me. So far indications suggest Grampians, maybe Buandik area. This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

As per the normal Wheel Of Life problem, but with a more difficult and direct finish

The long standing open project linking the entire 'Hollow Mountain Cave' end to end. Start as for X-Treme Cool (V9), and keep climbing into all of 'Sleepy Hollow' (V12), Cave Girl (V8/9), Dead Can't Dance (V11) - finishing up 'Rave Heart'. Route grade of 36/37

Pretty Hate Machine with the Eve Reve finish

Links 'Sleepy Hollow' + Cave Girl + Dead Can't Dance - first ascent spread over a mere 3 days.

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

9a Route. 44+ Moves. Start as for Short Fuse, reversing Anger Management finish as for Turbo Deluxe (Rodeo Clown into Major Lightweight). Some serious climbing and next level power endurance needed.

R. Hofmann

Links Straight out of Compton into the Dead Wrong Project, busting left just before you reach the dream block. Links V12 (Straight out of Compton without moves to Dream block) into V10+ bouldering for a total of around 21 steep burly moves.

Original Vision by Byron Glover. Another epic quest now complete. Centrelink Sponsorship into Major Lightweight. R. Hofmann

"THE LINE" at the Cave.

What may initially appear to be pretty straight forward soon becomes a realisation of clarity!

Climb Rodeo Clown into Major Lightweight.

R. Hofmann

Reverse Rodeo Clown direct into Persistence finishing as per this. Epic Power Endurance!! 8c+ Route

R. Hofmann

Lower right start to J1.

Climb Academic revision to the slopey jug on the lip. Then reverse room with a view back to the sloths crux, finishes as sloths in the attic. Fight the pump!

Starts the same as Academic Revision but after the hard pinch move you go across via some techy moves into the start of Sinusoidal and finish this topping out the cliff. A PE feat.

David

Climb Cave Man into all of Dead Can't Dance.

Low start with obvious low flakes (low left hand sidepull and right hand under the roof) and left toe. Hard starting move up to the diagonal flake and then up to jug rail to topout on the slab. The pedestal supporting the rock is out. Estimated 13/14? Has been done from one move in (starting with right hand gaston on the flake) clocks in at ~V10/11 Has also been done in two overlapping halves from the start (T Farrell 2023)

Reverse Rodeo Clown into Yo Mama (Anger Management exiting Persistence) Some decent power endurance! Easy V14? 8c/+ Route

R. Hofmann

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

Tom Farrell

Stand start on bad angled edges below the start for Sideshow and Main Event. Head right via gastons and sidepulls to gain gain the lip and finish as for Sideshow

Start with There Will Be Blood, but instead of topping out use the edges on problem #39 to come across to The Katana and finish on The Katana. A long endurance test piece that will certainly be a hard link up. Adds in a hard crux of coming down of the starting edge of #39 to the start of The Katana. Could probably shake out stemming between the Katana and Blood boulders... Contrived...

Start as for Sack of Woe, then left to very steep prow. Joins the last moves of Up Jumped the Devil.

Starts as for the Wheel of Life, but halfway through Sleepy Hollow traverses into Stimulation and climbs the whole of Stimulation (with the exception of the first move) till its end, which is also the finish of Silverchair – hence Wheelchair.

Hang Start on the horrendous pinches, slap up to slopers and traverse right to jug as for Kung Fu Fighting.

Stand Start - Classic

Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat.

Sit start to Madball - FA Klem Loskot 1999. Originally graded 8a+/V12 but later upgraded to 8b/v13 by Klem. Lots of sequences now exist.

one of SEWQ's hardest lines, sit start. Detached left boulder is out.

Sit start on the big undercling below the start of crooks and castles and heads straight up to finish on good block 1 m from top of cave.

Sit start out steep wall to the slab top out.

Sit start and out the steep wall heading left to top out through the ‘skylight’ hole up high on the left.

Sit-starts at bottom of dihedral and climbs to top of dihedral finish at juggy 2 finger and cod-mouth jug over lip - easier since a new foot sequence was discovered, compared to original crux-pounce that Tom did Sam Healy

Start one hand under the roof on the decent undercut and one hand with the hold on the lip, traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo". Originally started under the roof with 2 undercuts which is now broken, starting one move higher brings the grade down from the original v14.

Reverse Rodeo Clown to the start of Anger Management, get a decent rest and the finish as per Anger Management. Fun Power Endurance. Could be V12. 8b+/c Route

R. Hofmann

Sit-Start at the Letterbox Slot on the right hand entrance of the cave just before the end of Rodeo Clown. Reverse Rodeo Clown, into Persistence and finishing as for Anger Management. A fair bit of climbing involved. Could be V12? 8b+/c Route

R. Hofmann

Start at the big Hueco at the back right hand side of the cave. Climb diagonally left joining Persistence after about 12+ moves, finishing as per this. Long and pumpy!!

R. Hofmann

30 moves following the obvious line in roof. Up there with the bests of Sydney.

Stand start on the undercling. Move up using the sidepulls and a lack of footholds to reach the victory jug and to top out.

Elijah Mercado

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

Sugoi is a word that's typically used when you're left awestruck out of excitement or feel overwhelmed. It can also be used to express that something is terrible or dreadful.

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

Elijah Mercado

As for 'Deep Blue Sea', once at the lip finish up 'Cruel Sea' Dylan Soin

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

Tom O'Halloran

Connor Lucas

Sit start to Daoism.

Tom Farrell

Starts near fallen block on undercling for right hand and sloper for left, big dynamic move over block to sloper then up through edges in cave and top out as for everest. Repeated 1/5/05 by Sharik Walker

Climb "Academic Revision" through to the finish of "Room with a view" traverse right through some crimps to the obvious flat ledge of "Sinusoidal" and head directly up the slab, with some spooky feet to top out.

Links Academic Revision into Dr Bob top out.

Start about 3m to the right of "Room with a View" matched on jug at back of cave and climb virtually directly out of the roof, towards the same finish jug as "Room with a view" continue left topping out as for "Room with a better view"

Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out.

Crouch start on right hand incut crimp and left hand terrible sidepull. Hard move into start of Matty's Dyno to finish as for that problem

8 move cliff, no top out.

Links X-Treme Cool into The big flake link

Klem Loskot's piece de resistance - Climb all of Cave Man and keep going into the crux of Dead Can't Dance, and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

Links Cave Bitch into Dead Can't Dance, finishing as for 'Rave Heart'

Link 'Sleepy Hollow' into Cave Girl

Links X-Treme Cool into 'Sleepy Hollow'. First ascent spread over 12 days.

Start on the left hand sidepull and right hand crimp.

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

The creme de la creme. Sit start on crimp, punch up then across right and up a series of shallow pockets via a rad cross move, finishing on jug under the bolt.

Sit start on hueco.

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

Guess this needs a new name. Low start on the first of the monos and the obvious incut edge, with a pretty crucial toehook. Climb straight through the roof for a few moves before finishing up The V7. One of QLD's new hardest boulders.

Sit start with left hand on the half pad crimp rail and right on the nothing pinch, shoot up to the variety of crimps and the puzzle get's real! Potentially much harder than the estimated grade

Start as 'The Sweetest Contrivances' then traverse left through the overhang to link into 'Drop It Like It's Hot'. Pumpy and hard. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=126

SDS on good hold, long move up to gain the crimp-plate. Climb the left hand side of the boulder with awesome stretched out compression moves. Stick left for the send. Easier the taller you are.

Andy

Robin Y

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton | Sam Farrar

Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision.

The low start to quarter pounder - project.

Sit start with two opposing vertical holds, head left via big move and finish via arete

Possibly lives up to the name. It would appear that holds have broken since Brad S and Nick W first documented this boulder. A powerful, aggressive crimp boulder that needs a repeat to reconfirm the grade. Would appear at least V11.

Sit Start on good two finger side pull and crimp. Hard first moves left into small crimps, then finish as for ‘Kiss My Witness’.

Brad S and Nick W (Pictures on StrandedClimbers.Blogspot.com.au)

The clean overhanging face to the left of ‘Sudoku.’

Hard technical climbing in a steep open corner

Start same as Project Slap but after establishing the slopey crimp, traverse out left on tiny crimps and knobs to the arete and mantle to topout.

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Australia's first 35 (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019
• Ben Cossey