Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V10 - 13 | |||||
Tasmania North East Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Gorge - Bouldering Duck Reach Bouldering Upstream of Suspension Bridge Sudoku Boulder | |||||
V10 - 13 | Open Project
The clean overhanging face to the left of ‘Sudoku.’ | ||||
Tasmania North East Distillery Creek Prohibition Hill | |||||
V10 - 13 | Gin N Juice - Project
Hard technical climbing in a steep open corner | 3m | |||
V9 - 13 | |||||
Tasmania East St Helens - Bay of Fires St Helens Point The Point The Tip | |||||
V9 - 13 | Project Shoulder
Start same as Project Slap but after establishing the slopey crimp, traverse out left on tiny crimps and knobs to the arete and mantle to topout. | 5m | |||
V8 - 12 | |||||
Tasmania West Mt Lyell A Fist Full Of Dollars Area The Hideout | |||||
V8 - 12 | Hideout Long Extension
There is the potential to start at the far left of this boulder and traverse into Hideout, will be tight to avoided dabbing the ground and could be very hard. | ||||
Queensland South East Granite Belt Passchendaele State Forest The Backyard | |||||
V8 - 12 | Cherubim project
| 4m | |||
V8 - 12 | |||||
Western Australia Wheatbelt Dreaming Frog Welcome Sector | |||||
V8 - 12 | Hard Project 1
Open project. | 8m | |||
V10/11 | |||||
Western Australia Wheatbelt Dreaming Frog Welcome Sector | |||||
V10/11 | ★★ Paresthesia
Start far under to dihedral, inside cave on a obvious good edge. Slap left along slopey traverse with smears and heel hooks to committing finish. HARD | 10m | |||
Western Australia Perth Walyunga National Park Andy's Boulder | |||||
V10/11 | Wally World Top Out Proj
Top out - adds a massive move off bad feet to the slopey lip and a sketchy top out. Adds at least a grade or two... Make your you have some spotters for this one! | ||||
V10/11 | |||||
South Australia Adelaide Norton Summit The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V10/11 | ★ Twisted Fantasy
Start for twist and shout, traverse under the roof to SGF and finish for that. FA: Thananthorn Suriyasenee, 2023 | ||||
Queensland South East Brisbane Plunkett Conservation Park Weathertop Ridge Right Side | |||||
V10/11 | ★★★ Weakest Obliquest
And on the sixth day Bo created this line. Start in a casual laying down position with hands on the left and right crimp rails. do not start matched on the left crimp as it takes a grade or two off. bring plenty of skin FA: Corey Batten & Bo Palmer, 27 Août 2023 | ||||
Western Australia South Coast Albany Cheynes Beach Boulders The Deep Space Boulders | |||||
V10/11 | ★★ 12 Parsecs
‘Cosmic Artefact’ into ‘Special Relativity’. Mega pump fest with awesome moves… FA: Michael Taran, Nov. 2020 | 14m | |||
Western Australia South Coast Albany The Prosciutto Bloc | |||||
V10/11 | ★★★ Foundation's Edge, Sit
Sit start with hands matched in the slopey dish on the right. Tricky and draining sequence to gain the stand. Awesome tall, steep compression line on perfect rock. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiHmGKSFvRw FA: Michael Taran, 27 Mars 2022 | 6m | |||
V10/11 | ★★★ The Edge of Tomorrow
Sit start on the right of the sharp arete with left hand pinch and right hand jug flake and then up the arete. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQQskgGla3Y Stand start FA by Andy Lampard. FA: Michael Taran, 27 Mars 2022 | 5m | |||
Western Australia North Kalbarri The Z Bend Up Stream Boulders Around the Corner Boulders | |||||
V10/11 | ★★★ The Krayt Dragon
Start as for 'Mulighted' then link into 'The Sandgroper'. Power endurance epic. https://youtu.be/GbWk69FEaAo First move jug broke off. Small sharp crimps there now but still doable. Re-opened post-break Aug 2023 - M. Taran. Doesn't change the grade significantly. FA: Michael Taran, 18 Sept 2021 | 14m | |||
Western Australia Perth Mountain Quarry Carpark boulders | |||||
V10/11 | ★★ The Half Monty
Sit start as for ‘Smooth Jazz, sit start’, link right via the start of ‘Mr Bump’ to finish as for ‘V-Juice’. Heart breaker finish throw. Bit of a participant award for the full link… FA: Michael Taran, 25 Nov. 2022 | 6m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan Inner West Iron Cove Rodd Park Ergometer Wall | |||||
V10/11 | ★ Water Rats
Start with left hand in pockety feature and right hand on sloper in low break. Move up to the lip and mantle. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 22 Oct. 2021 | ||||
New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan North Shore Forestville Sissy Crag | |||||
V10/11 | ★★★ Bubble O'Bill
Start on Elliptical jug of Blinky Bill, move directly out to the slot jug, grab any pocket and go big to the letterbox jug of Mr Smiley to finish as for Mr Smiley. Never done a move quite like this outside so hard to grade. Could be harder? FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Juil 2020 | ||||
V10/11 | ★★★ Silent Bob Extension
Silent Bob into High Up Over Yonder. | ||||
New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan North West Jessicca's | |||||
V10/11 | Motivation For The Meaningless
Start as per Big Mitch then a bit left and up to little dish and a crimp then to the top break. Top out or don't top out. You do you FA https://www.instagram.com/p/B0c2HO2jWPn/ FA: Sage G, 28 Juil 2019 | 4m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Bangor Blocs Blocs | |||||
V10/11 | Evasive Manoeuvres
Start Massive Attack and traverse left into Warmup Warren. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 5 Sept 2022 | ||||
V10/11 | ★★★ Fools Gold
A direct line up from the Goldfinger start via pocket and undercling then dyno to a slopey crimp on the lip and up the v easy top. FA: Chris, 1 Juin 2022 | 3m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Coast Blackwall Underworld | |||||
V10/11 | ★★★ Sloths in the Attic
Start as for room with a view but halfway out exit straight left through some tough moves to reach the jugs. The a large throw to lip before heading straight up the headwall to walk off. FA: Michael Tonon, 19 Sept 2015 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Quickening Boulder | |||||
V10/11 | ★★ The Thiccening
Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug. | ||||
V9 - 11 | |||||
Tasmania North West Cradle Mountain Lodge area Cyclops Wall | |||||
V9 - 11 | Unadulterated Minds - Open Project
| 7m | |||
Tasmania North East Distillery Creek Prohibition Hill | |||||
V9 - 11 | Tequila Sunrise - Project
The left arete of the steep boulder. Sit start following the line of compression holds to top out on the left side of the slab. Looks like a super quality line | 5m | |||
Tasmania North East Brady's Lookout Ogre Boulder | |||||
V9 - 11 | The Ogre Project
Sit start with right hand flat crimp and left hand glorious pinch. Head up through bad holds to big committing finish move. | 3m | |||
V8 - 11 | |||||
Tasmania North West Cradle Mountain Lodge area Cyclops Wall | |||||
V8 - 11 | The Devils Henchman - Open Project
| 6m | |||
Tasmania North East Distillery Creek Prohibition Hill | |||||
V8 - 11 | Brandy - Project
Distillery Creek's answer to Powerslave. hand start on good low left arete. Big moves to opposing sidepulls, and mantle over the lip. | 3m | |||
Tasmania North East Brady's Lookout Circus Boulder | |||||
V8 - 11 | Directors Cut - Project
Start as for Sideshow, once hitting lip, traverse right for several metres via bad slopers to gain better terrain for mantle | 6m | |||
Tasmania East St Helens - Bay of Fires St Helens Point The Point The Tip | |||||
V8 - 11 | Project Popit
SDS with the jug and crimp. Pop out to the sloped crimps and knobs on the face then Pop to good topout holds. | 4m | |||
V7 - 11 | |||||
Tasmania East St Helens - Bay of Fires St Helens Point The Point The Tip | |||||
V7 - 11 | Project Crimps
SS on the face crimps or undercling on the right side of the face and climb up. | 2m | |||
30 - 33 | |||||
Tasmania West Frenchmans Cap Area Frenchmans Cap North-West Wall and Environs La Grande Pump Cave | |||||
30 - 33 | Tasanger
A non existent route. | 45m | |||
32 | |||||
Tasmania West Adamsfield The High Wire | |||||
32 | ★★★ Magic Potion Extension
Adds an additional 5m of perfect climbing to the start of MP, start as for the sub zero boulder problem and continue into MP. FFA: Ryan Sklenica, 2018 | 20m | |||
Tasmania East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Star Factory | |||||
32 | ★★ The Tooth Fairy
Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one. FFA: Kim Robinson, 2004 | 25m, 10 | |||
32 | ★★★ Wizard Of Oz
Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out L. Traverse R on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route. FFA: Jake Bresnehan, 2006 | 27m | |||
32 | ★ Street Fighter 3
Direct Start into Street Fighter. V10 if your 6 and a half feet tall. Harder if shorter. FFA: Steve Townsend, 2014 | 20m, 9 | |||
South Australia Adelaide Norton Summit The Hole | |||||
32 | ★ The Wormhole Search
Fred's finest linkup. Given 33 but settled at 32 after repeats? Start as for 36, then through Stugang Extension crux then climb the holds just right of circus street linking back to the end of the cave. FA: Frederic Bonnet | ||||
Queensland North Townsville Frederick Peak South Sentinel Supernova Wall | |||||
32 | 300
Townsville's first 5.14! The king reigns supreme. FFA: Steven Ioannou, 5 Août 2018 | 50m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim The Mushroom | |||||
32 | Kim's Project
Un-climbed open project. FH on the main face lead the way up a slightly over hanging, blank looking face, following a faint seam feature. No DBB. | 15m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Flinders Peak (limited access) The Secret Cave | |||||
32 | ★★★ Mr Meeseeks
Climb Plumbus and keep trucking left into the hard end crux of astrobatics. FFA: nate foster, 27 Mai 2023 | 30m, 11 | |||
32 | ★★★ Astrobatics
Mega extension of 'Event Horizon'. After the last draw of 'Event Horizon' head right across cheese blocks and then continue right and then up the compact head wall. Équip.: Sam Bowman & Johnny Schwartz, Fév 2016 FFA: Sam bowman, Mars 2016 | 25m, 14 | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Frog Buttress East of the access track | |||||
32 | ★★ Whistling Kite
An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found. FA: Paul Smith, 1988 | 30m, 3 | |||
Queensland South East Sunshine Coast Mt Coolum | |||||
32 | ★★★ Bite The Hand That Feeds
4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2010 | 23m, 10 | |||
32 | ★★★ Friction Addiction
Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy. FA: Matt Schimke, 2011 FFA: Sam Bowman, 2014 | 23m, 11 | |||
32 | ★★★ Sheitan Sabzi
Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA. Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur. Équip.: Dan Gordon & Alexander Turnbull, 4 Jan 2020 FA: Khosro Hashemzadeh, 30 Mai 2020 | 20m, 14 | |||
Queensland South East Sunshine Coast Brooyar Point Pure | |||||
32 | ★★ Open Project
Climb TFVOM to the off width of RP then blast straight back right into a thin pebble belt. Next is a huge dyno then some blankness going right. At this point it could keep going towards pebble or straight up to anchor right of RP. Hard to know at this point. Bloody hard Équip.: Daniel Gordon, Damo Rua & Alex Turnbull, 2012 | 17m, 6 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Northwest Slopes and plains Kaputar northern section Waa Gorge Main Waall | |||||
32 | ★★ Guerrilla Waafare
A reachy start with a brutal boulder sequence through the roof, guards 20 meters of amazing jugs to the finish. Équip.: James vilimaa FA: Sasha Gerzha, 26 Août 2018 | 30m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Australian Capital Territory Orroral area Orroral Ridge Tower Rocks | |||||
32 | ★★★ Vertigo
Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site. FA: Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1972 FFA: Daniel Fisher, Sept 2019 | 36m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Aliens' Domain | |||||
32 | ★★ Inter Galactic Spastic
Monique Forestier's 2003 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 32. FA: Nathan Hoette | 25m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave | |||||
32 | Blood Clot
Start up Brain Haemorrhage to roof and head left to join Bloodline. Quite a few dynamic moves heading left up via the obvious left leaning ramp. You'll arrive with your feet on Bloodline ledge. Suck in the oxygen and finish up Bloodline. Note... You might be tempted to stay low avoiding the classic ramp (crux). If this is the case, give yourself a 29 tick. FA: Jake Bresnehan, 23 Nov. 2018 | 20m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Upper Wall | |||||
32 | Mr. September
Far left hand route. FA: N.Sutter, 1997 | 8m | |||
32 | Fury
a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs. Start: 15 meters right of mr september. FA: vince day, 2004 | 15m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | |||||
32 | ★★ Tug Boat
Start as for Birthday Salmon and truck up direct-like to join Staring at the Sea at the rest hole. From there bust straight up through the boulder problem that earns you the grade without stepping left into Tsunami!! Chug out the roof and finish at the top. FA: zac vertrees, 2006 | 15m | |||
32 | The 50 Year Storm (Linkup)
Start up Tug Boat then move R into Point Break/Microwave. FA: Roman Hoffman, 2013 | 18m | |||
32 | ★★ Staring At The Sea
Start as for Microwave, head steadily left across Point Break and Tugboat and finish as for Tsunami (not Tugboat). FA: G. Miller, 1998 | 25m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Centennial Glen White Linen Wall | |||||
32 | ★★ Search and Destroy
Batman start. Start: Route 60m to the left of 'Dr Foopsickle'. FA: Lee Cossey | 10m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | |||||
32 | ★★ Better than Life
Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts. FA: S.Johns, 1992 | 12m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Junket Pumper Area | |||||
32 | ★★ Alpha Leather
Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone. Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'. FA: Garth Miller | 15m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Equaliser Wall | |||||
32 | ★★★ Truck Stop 31
Links the crux of Pooferator into the crux of Equaliser. FA: Zac Vertrees, 2004 | 18m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Medlow Bath The Underworld | |||||
32 | ★★★ The Proposition
As for Chulahoma to ledge, then head further right under roof to next line of bolts. Funky climbing to make it through roof and around lip. Grade is a total guess. Tom was working moves and had no real sequence sorted. Went up for another working burn and just climbed the whole way through. He went back a few years later and couldn't figure out the sequence that worked and it all felt hard. FA: Tom O'Halloran, 17 Mars 2015 | ||||
32 | ★★★ Chulahoma Bootleg
Start at prow through ferns. Up steep, right trending climbing to ledge (27 to here). Then blast out big holds and big moves in roof to a jumpy crux at lip (careful with belay). Then climb to top of the cliff. FA: Tom O'Halloran Équip.: Vince Day | 20m | |||
32 | ★★★ Hashish
Start up Mississippi Moonshine then head across left through juggy but surprisingly punchy roof to join Assassins at its final rest and crux. | 28m | |||
32 | ★★ Layin' Down Papers
Few meters right of Gravel Rash. Up steep scoop to base of roof. Bouldery through roof then head right to Assassins/Hashish final boulder. Bolted by Zac Vertrees. Ben Cossey has temp bolts going direct out the roof. Stay off them, they will not hold a climbing fall. FA: Tom O'Halloran, 8 Mai 2023 | ||||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Little Italy Sunnyside | |||||
32 | ★ Vicous Fish
Up seamstress for a few bolts then break right and on through rooves and head wall. FFA: Garth Miller, 2007 | 25m | |||
32 | ★ B5
Short and hard Lower off from fourth (fifth ?) bolt, at ramp ledge last two bolts aren't worth it and will be removed eventually. FFA: Garth Miller, 2007 | 10m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Elphinstone Dumbo Love Sector | |||||
32 | ★★ Shogun
Line of bolts right of Kung Fu Muscle and left of The Last Ninja. A unique route for the mountains, bouldery and sustained hard pockets. A visionary bolting effort by Scotty B and inspired siege by Logan. FA: Logan Barber, 2013 | 25m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Elphinstone Gay Paris Wall | |||||
32 | ★★★ Shame at the Anvil
Batman or make yourself a Bachar ladder to reach the start. Then up a couple of the ladder rungs to get into the proper rock. Blast straight up and up and up to get yourself under the high bulge. Some tricky moves manoeuvring around the bulge then out left through the roof to turn the lip and climb the last few meters up the slab to high anchor. May be easier? FFA: 2013 | 35m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Elphinstone Main Wall | |||||
32 | ★★★ High Hopes | 35m | |||
32 | ★★★ Zigzagonal
The journey to the centre of the earth could not be this epic. Start as per Green Grass diverging to the left at the seventh bolt when Green Grass heads back to the right. Up Up Up, staying generally just to the left of Green Grass to finish under the high roof. FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012 | 35m | |||
32 | ★★ The Elephant Man
Start as for Lord Elphinstone but then head diagonally across the wall to the right. 70m rope is NOT enough to lower off the anchor, but should be ok from last bolt. Équip.: rowan druce FA: 2 Mars 2019 | 35m | |||
32 | ★★★ Bandula
One of the best lines at the crag!! Climb Brummel Hook for 18m to just above the roof. Where Brummel Hook drifts R, instead head straight up the orange flake and keep on going and going. Squeeze hard, keep tension and don't let go. FFA: Rowan Druce, 2013 | 30m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Red Ledge Pass | |||||
32 | ★★★ HeatSeeker
Rad rad route, up some of the best rock around. Quality bouldering with jugs to seperate the difficulties, and a sustained finish. A great toilet bowl feature, batman or climb the mud to the first bolt. FFA: G. Miller, 2006 | 23m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Mr Wall | |||||
32 | ★★★ Mr Line (link-up)
Supposed to be the easier variant to Mr Tickle, some people lacking adequate forearm fitness actually find it to be harder. Start as for Mr Tickle but traverse left and finish up Hairline. FA: Lee Cossey, 2001 | 18m | |||
32 | ★★ Mr Tickle
A great line, fun moves and quite sustained. FA: Lee Cossey, 2001 | 25m | |||
32 | Rhythm and Stealth
Start as for Rhythm Method but follow the right hand line of rings up the wall after 4m. Rhythm And Stealth is a rad boulder problem on top of another boulder problem with chunky moves and fingery holds. Quite a nice solid number if the weather is not so good but jugs in the cold. FA: Zac Vertrees | 15m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Nowra Bomaderry Creek Cheesedale Leftside | |||||
32 | ★★★ Big Babies
Climb meta to the last bolt then head left to the ‘jug’ rest on baby cheeses and do it’s final crux before finishing up the big cheese. FA: Matt Warner | ||||
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Nowra Bomaderry Creek South Central | |||||
32 | ★★★ TNT
Same first move as Brown Badge, then head right to finish all the way up ANS. Originally bolted by Rob Lebreton FA: Mark McGivern, Août 2022 | 15m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Nowra Bomaderry Creek Rosies | |||||
32 | ★★★ Stranger on the Shore
Bit of a debate about the grade, seems 32/33!! Start as for Frosty, at the major break where frosty continues upwards, veer left via some awesome bouldery moves. FA: chris webb parsons, 2006 | 15m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Nowra The Grotto Cliffline P.C. | |||||
32 | ★★★ Attack Mode
The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994 NA: Rose Weller, Juin 2021 | 9m | |||
32 | ★★ The Divine Wind
FA: Ryan Sklenica | ||||
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Nowra Thompson's Point The Grease Cave | |||||
32 | ★★★ The Woman In White
White Trash into Tramp Stamp via the project bolts.Then just keep on trucking. Slightly harder version of Tramp Stamp original. FA: 22 Juil 2014 | ||||
32 | ★★★ Stamp Tramp
As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend leftwards to join the traverse on Skin to Skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!! FA: Zac Vertrees, 2007 NA: Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Sept 2022 | 16m | |||
32 | Sexy is the Word R2
Extension of "Sexy is the Word". FFA: Daniel Fisher | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Fermé Millennium Caves | |||||
32 | What's an Aging Gigolo to Do
The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent. Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of Bwana. Up from the left to gain the faint arete then move R and up the steep grey face to the top. FA: Garth Miller, 2000 | 25m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Fermé The Gallery | |||||
32 | ★★★ Nicotine
The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly. FA: Garth Miller, 1996 | 23m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Crag X | |||||
32 | ★★★ Orbital Drift
The line out the middle of the big red cave. Three sections with increasing difficulties separated by good rests. Rock quality is second to none at the top. Glory jugging up final corner to double U bolt belay. FA: Doug McConnell, 31 Mai 2018 | 30m, 10 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | |||||
32 | ★★ Long Arm White Spider
Starts as per PFOD then joins CL for a couple of bolts. Takes traverse line a few meters south of CL to same anchor FA: Nathan H, 2014 | 50m | |||
32 | ★★★ The Waddle Inn
A shameless linkup but worthy none the less! Start up middle path and continue as per the flying duck. Do the crux dyno of the duck and then immediately head left into a rest before finishing at the path of yin anchors. Équip.: Nathan Hoette, 2015 FA: Gerhard Deiter, 2015 | 15m, 8 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | |||||
32 | ★★ Somoza
One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries! FA: Dave Jones, 1999 | 20m, 10 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall | |||||
32 | Tyranny Into Lifestyling
The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000 | 17m, 6 | |||
32 | ★★ Who's a Naughty Boy?
The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain. FA: Equipped (and Un-Equipped) by Gordon Poultney. First Free Ascent by Garth Miller & then re-established after Gordy's tantrum by Nathan Hoette., 1998 | 20m, 6 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
32 | ★★★ Snakes on a Train
A link up. From the anchors of Snake Flake, traverse left into the top half of Groove Train via one bolt. FA: Doug McConnell, 2012 | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
32 | ★★★ Orange Desire
Second Pitch to Mirage. Quentin approached from Seventh Pillar LHV via Snake in the Grass. More like 33 according to Alex Megos. FFA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | ||||
Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall | |||||
32 | Project
| 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||
32 | ★★ Destroyer of the Rings
Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer. FA: Lee Cossey, 2015 | 15m | |||
32 | Gridlack
| 15m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||
32 | ★★★ Punks in the Gym
The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it! Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber. Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32. Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top. FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985 | 30m, 7 | |||
32 | ★ Pretty In Punk
An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local. This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete. Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994 | 20m, 4 | |||
32 R | |||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Fermé Millennium Caves | |||||
32 R | ★ Dual Fuel
Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times. Start as for Nomads / Red Vinyl Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000 | 20m | |||
32 R | ★★ Fire in da Belly
A whole new route without a single extra bolt! Start as for Red Vinyl. Extends Red Vinyl to the lip. No more bolts, although it does now have it's own anchor. Make sure you clip the last bolt on Red Vinyl then drop back down right, up, then back left to the crux. You need an alert belayer once you're out near the lip. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000 | 25m |