Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
South West Tweedledee | |||||
V1 | ★ Begin at the Beginning
Start matched on thin crimper in the middle of the face left of Vorpal Sword, then (with your feet on) make a move to the top, and mantle it out. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Intercourse Vector
Sit start with both hands on the undercling flake. Stand into the crimp as per 'Begin at the Beginning' and then move straight to the lip and mantle. FA: Dan Berry, 9 Jan 2022 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Vorpal Sword
Sit start with left hand under cling and right hand small edge. Move up through vertical fault line and top out slightly left. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★ PTSD
Sit start as for 'Vorpal Sword'. Move left to the small edge and traverse left topping out as for 'Directly Possible'. Downgrade due to better beta. FA: Jordan Grant, 20 Août 2015 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Hookah
Sit start as for Vorpal Sword but hold its RH crimp with LH and a poor undercling with RH. Pull on and slap for sloper on arête, then adjacent sloper and finish up Down the Rabbit Hole. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Down The Rabbit Hole
Sit Start using right hand edge and left hand edge. Traverse left using slopers and a fingery side pull then head up arête on minimal features to top out. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Cheshire Cat
Start as for Down The Rabbit Hole, go up-to the large LH bucket of the first move then straight up and top out. FA: John Hudson, 2014 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Bandersnatch
The obvious central line up the slab of the Tweedledee boulder following the layback crack weakness. Sit start at the base of the offset crack with a right hand crimp and the lowest left hand small sidepull. Pull on (crux) and then follow the crack/seam all the way to the top to an easy mantle. Established without chalk or a mat but one mat is highly recommended! More than that however and you will significantly lower the grade. | 5m | |||
V3 | Bandercat
Sir start as for Bandersnatch. Head mid-way up the obvious weakness before breaking left. Use a committing left hand post and top out as for Cheshire cat. FA: Hung Nguyen, 1 Sept 2021 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Breaking The Glass
Stand start 2m right of Bandersnatch holding obvious flat jugs (higher one with rh). Pull on (marginal feet) and make an explosive move up to the two finger pocket (lh). Gain a high slopey sidepull on the arête and blast straight up to the very slopey top. a set of crimpers on the summit allows the final mantle to be undertaken. | 4m | |||
Through The Looking Glass
| 4m | ||||
V8 | ★★ Shot Glass
Sit start as for Bandersnatch, then head right past a small pocket to join the start of Breaking the Glass, then climb all of that problem to top out. FA: Redanon, 2017 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Shattered glass
Start as for Shot glass- through the iron cross to join pink flamingos- finish up this bloc. I have a feeling the shorter you are the harder this problem will be. ENJOY! FA: Dan millar, 22 Mai 2022 | ||||
V1 | ★ Pink Flamingo
Stand start matched on lowest point of trending horizontal edge. Head right and top out when the edge heads around the arête. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Bashing Glass flamingos
Start as for shot glass. Head out right to join pink flamingos, instead of topping out there exit via bashing flamingos . FA: Dan millar | ||||
V5 | ★★ Everything is ordinary
Eliminate. . Move from pink flamingos rightward start on diagonal crimp. Move right without using the slopers above or the mantle jugs. To the obvious jug around the corner. Mantle out once you reach this. FA: Dan millar, Août 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★ Bashing Flamingos
Stand start as for 'Pink Flamingo' and make a big move out right to a sloper on the arete. Powerful move into a left hand sloper then delicately move around the corner joining 'Birthday Bash' at it's good sloping jug. Mantle out as for this climb. Climbs the lower hanging arete instead of following the obvious weakness diagonally right. FA: pamelalansbury, 2021 | ||||
V3 | ★ Birthday Bash
Sit start under overhang on good right hand pinch and bad left hand sloper side pull. Make a big move out left to a sharp pocket and mantle the summit. | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Screaming For Attention
Direct line starting off sidepulls and surmounting the slab via small crimpers. FA: DOT | 5m | |||
V0+ | ★★ Not too Slabby
Begin on deep horizontal fault between slab and lower edge. LH move to good sloper. RH move along fault to decent hold and mantle onto lower edge. Match both hands on horizontal fault on the big slab and mount. Follow up to top out. Équip.: Laurence Judd, 9 Juin 2018 FA: 9 Juin 2018 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Hookah With the Millipede
Stand start on obvious edge to the left of bulge, drop low and traverse right around the bulge until you reach 'Drink Me'. Finish as for 'Drink Me'. FA: Callum Brett | ||||
V3 | ★★ Eat Me
Sit start under overhang on right hand side pull and low small edge. Traverse lip left to in-cut breaks and top out directly over slab. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Drink Me
Same start as for ‘Eat Me’ and heading slightly right to top out on good holds. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Dirty Alice
Sit start on the lowest section of the horizontally trending sloper rail. traverse left joining 'Eat Me' and climb this route to the end. FA: pamelalansbury, 2020 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Keller's Remorse
Start as for Eat Me, moving up to two edges and mantling left over the bulge. Continuing through the undercling and topping out to the right. FA: Dan Berry, 27 Déc 2021 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Mad Hatters Tea Party
Sit start on sloping edges move through face on small edges to top out on good holds. | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★ Mad Haters Tea Party
Start as for Mad Hatters Tea Party and when at the pocket break right to far sloping edge and finish up centre of boulder on slopes. Sustained from start till finish. FA: Petey Pete, 19 Juin 2014 | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ The Shrike
Sit Start On lowest breakline at the large black streak. Move up and right to higher breakline and follow it to the arete to finish up 'Wristy Business' FA: Thananthorn Suriyasenee, Sept 2022 | 5m | |||
V8/9 | ★ Adelaide, The Boulder
Sit Start as for 'The Shrike' and link into 'Positive Aspects of Negative Thinking' FA: Thananthorn Suriyasenee, Sept 2022 | 6m | |||
V5 | ★ PPRHS
aka. Pocket Project Right Hand Stand. Stand start holding right hand in pocket, left hand on good edge. Lock down to poor LH crimp, then top out. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Arsenic
Crouched start with RH on biggest edge in the breakline and LH on furthest LH edge. Bust a big move RH to the slopey pocket, then a hard press into a crimp in the face up and left. Use a good LH edge left of the Ground Control exit then move into that problems mantle finish. FA: Jordan Grant, 2020 | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★ Mock Turtles Last Stand
Crouched start on a set of flat crimps on the right side of the Mad Hatters wall of Tweedle Dee. RH out to an unlikely pinch on the right arête, drop the LH onto the RH start hold and bust out around the arête to a good sidepull. From here gain the arête sloper and go again LH into the crimp line. Top out. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★★ The Positive Aspects of Negative Thinking
A link up. Start as for 'Mock Turtles Last Stand' and finish up 'Six Impossible Things'. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Control
Stand start to 'Ground Control'. Standing start holding the pocket (LH) and the slopey diagonal sidepull just before the arête. Make a hard move RH to a crimp in the horizontal weakness, then gain adjacent crimp LH. Bust a move to a flat edge on the summit, and mantle to top out. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Ground Control
Crouched start holding furthest RH edge in the breakline and better LH edge. Big tension move to the slopey pocket, then RH to diagonal slopey sidepull left of arête. Finish up 'Control'. FA: 9 Août 2014 | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Wristy Business
Sit start on RH arete pinch and left hand edge. Climb the arete direct and Mantle out. FA: Jordan Grant | ||||
V5 | ★★ Six Impossible Things
Stand start with left hand around arête on horizontal edge and right on other side of arête on side pull. Traverse right along small edges and smears on overhanging slab and top out when it ends. FA: Adam Clay | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Directly Possible
Sit-start on a small, horizontal R-hand edge and a LH on arete pinch. Grab the hanging slab and move onto it (using a number of different methods), pulling up to a crimp in the horizontal seam and then to the top for an easy mantle. Edit due to broken Hold. | 3m | |||
South West Tweedledum | |||||
V5 | ★★ Golden Teacher
start on poor underclings left of bad alice. left hand to high crimp, find balance to move right hand around arete to sidepull. gain good feet to stand up to left hand crimp. use good right footer to get upper side pull. finish direct and exit through crack FA: Heath Dalziel | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Bad Alice
Stand start left of Alice using RH sidepull and LH high edge. Pull on, then LH to gaston and RH to another crimp. A couple more moves (crux) lead to the 'good hold' at the end of the Jam & Bread With Alice traverse. Traverse off right to finish. FA: Redanon | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Alice
Sit start with left hand side pull sloper and right hand crimp following left side of arête to top out at the boulders highest point in crack. Highball! | 7m | |||
VB | ★★ Up In Smoke
Stand start pulling up on horizontal fault and follow the line to the top out. | 6m | |||
V1 | ★ Mustard!
Stand start using right hand side pull and left hand small edge following vertical fault to top out slightly left on first ledge. | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★★ To Slay A Jabberwocky
Sit start on two underclings and make a strong move to a LH sidepull then follow up bulge trending right via small edges and smears to top out on good holds. An instant area classic! | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ I'm Late Stand Start
Stand start matched in vertical sidepull. Head up using vertical fault lines and crimps to top out on good holds. | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ I'm Late Sit Start
Sit start as for 'Jabberwocky'. Make the first big move of this problem and head into the start hold for 'I'm Late Stand Start' and up this. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Magic Mushroom
Stand start right of Jabberwocky holding a sloper RH and better sloper LH (jump start or pull on from boulder opposite). Pull on and blast to a high RH sloper on the face then switch to the thin crack/seam and press it out to the top. Easier said than done. You can also jump start from large left hand side pull to the high sloper. | 6m | |||
V3 | ★ Caterpillar Arete
Stand start with right hand on good pinch and left hand just above it. Follow trending horizontal slopers out left and continue to trend left to top out on high left hand side of flake. Most will probably finish direct though! | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ Off With Her Head
Sit start in crack and follow the crack slightly left to top out. | 6m | |||
V3 | The Caucus Race
Start matched on side pull heading up to another side pull and top out. | 6m | |||
V4 | Resign to the Fact
You will if you fall off it. Straight up via big moves to gain the horizontal cracks and top out directly. FA: Redanon, 2014 | 7m | |||
V4 | Painting The Roses Red
Start on good crimps on horizontal seam traversing left for 2 metres then up over black bulge horn and top out. | 6m | |||
V3 | Queen of Hearts
Same start as for 'Painting The Roses Red' traverse left and commit to big left hand throw to jug then top out. | 6m | |||
Caterpillar Arête Sit Start
Sit start in arête on small right hand crimp and left hand left hand nubin crimp. Compress your way up into the stand start and finish up this. | |||||
V3 | Jam and Bread With Alice
Stand start then big move to jug under break then hand traverse right along fist jam horizontal crack to finish up the arete of Alice. | ||||
South Hill Forest Incognito Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Tunnel Vision
Squat start matched on good incut crimp. Make a big move straight up to the slopey lip. Step up and mantle slopey top out. The step is in. FA: Laurence Judd, Juil 2023 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | Detour
Start as for Tunnel Vision but move out right to good edge on lower part of lip. Traverse right to shallow jug before the tree, then top out. FA: Laurence Judd, Juil 2023 | 3m | |||
South Hill Forest Calm Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Keep Calm
Ascends the very overhung left arête of the tall block several metres down from Danielsun. Stand start with LH on a slopey crimp and RH on a high thin crimp in the middle of the face. Make a big move to a good edge on the arête then bust RH straight to the top (sloper) then again to a sidepull further right (on the summit). Mantle to finish. | ||||
V10 | ★★ Alligator Fuckhouse Stand Start
The vague arête 1m right of Keep Calm. Stand start on high poor hand pinch and right hand good edge (will require stacked pads). Make big move to right hand right edge and bust to lip to top-out. Possible lower start matched on edges right of the arete. Estimate grade V12+ | ||||
V1 | ★ White Boy
Slab 10m uphill to the right from Doormouse. Left hand line mantling a good edge then up to gaston the overlap and top out. | ||||
Black Boy
Project line 1m right of White Boy. | |||||
South Hill Forest Plate Glass Wall | |||||
VB | ★ Escape
Located on the Plate Glass Project Wall. 2 mover mantle. RH positive edge, LH big sidepull, feet on smears. Move RH to top then mantle it out. | ||||
V4 | Plate Glass
Stand start utilizing poor LH sloper crimp and razor RH crimp. R foot on good detached flake, then up. Mantle to top out. Has now been done from a sit matched on the flake by Heath. V4/5. | ||||
South Hill Forest Sloper Groper Boulder | |||||
V9/10 | ★★ Hazard Duty Pay!
Sit Start LH Sit Pull and RH Crimp. Dyno to the finish hold of 'Grope a Sloper' and top out. FA: Thananthorn Suriyasenee, Sept 2022 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Sloper Groper Stand Start
Stand start in centre of boulder on left hand small edge and right hand sloper. Traverse left to knobbly feature at the top and mantle out. Équip.: FA: Jordan Grant, 20 Août 2015 | 2m | |||
V8 | ★★ Grope a Sloper
Sit start on right hand side of boulder matched on obvious sloping dish. Traverse left and finish as for the stand start. FA: Ed Heddle 2015 Équip.: | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Not My Chair, Not My Problem
Start as per sloper groper sit into the stand start, delicate mantle up from here. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Sam's The Man
Back Side of Boulder: Sit start low on the left arete. Follow the arete to the peak to top out. | 2m | |||
South Hill Forest The Dans | |||||
V2 | ★ 2nd Dan
Same start as for 1st Dan but climb up and left to a mantle press. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Dan In The Middle
Sit start on big, flat sloper. Move up and left, then mantle onto gentle slab and up FA: Mike Schneid | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ 1st Dan
Start matching the big sloper at the base of the slab 15m right of Keep Calm. Climb up and right to topout. | 3m | |||
VB | Right Hand Dan
Stand start on large crimp in middle of slab to the right of the Dans. Head straight up on good holds to top out in the middle of the boulder. Dont forget to duck under the tree! | 3m | |||
South Hill Forest Happy Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★★ Happy Traverse
Stand start on right hand side of boulder with hands in under-cling. Traverse left across the whole boulder using continuous under-cling and top out when the under-cling ends. | 2m | |||
V0 | Early Exit
Same start as for 'Barstool Traverse' however when you get to the mid point of the boulder (the larger udercling section) top out! A thoughtful mantle. | 1m | |||
South Hill Forest Bogan Boulder | |||||
V0 | Like A Bogan
Sit start with hands in layback crack and head up v corner. An easy top out. | 3m | |||
V0 | Thonged
Same start as for 'Like A Bogan' and trend right to top out on right hand side of boulder. | 3m | |||
South Hill Forest Cat Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Plenty of Ways to Skin a Cat
Sit start using a big LH sloper and a poorer RH sloper sidepull (low down on the right hand face). Pull on and slap RH to a sidepull then RH again for a triangle pinch. Bust out left to a sloper on the rim and grab the good RH sidepull. Top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Mullet in the Wind
Sit start matched on lower block, move up to big left trending layback, then right through the middle of the boulder to meet the jugs at the top of 'Plenty of ways to skin a Cat'. FA: Laurence Judd & pamelalansbury, Avr 2024 | 3m | |||
South Hill Forest Capture The Flag | |||||
V0- | ★ Slap & Tickle
Stand Start under the arete, left of Capture the Flag, climb arete to top out. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Capture The Flag
Sit start on good, diagonal leaning holds. Move up to big, flat sloper at base of crack line, then take the crack to top out. | 4m | |||
Font 7c+
The Fontainbleau like project 2m right of the Crack Project (1m left of Doormouse). Sit start using the big jug under the arête then up the face using slopey crimpers to an even sloppier topout on some of the worst (best?) slopers you’ve ever seen. | |||||
V3 | ★ The Doormouse Problem
Very low sit start 4m around right from Slap & Tickle using a slopey sidepull (RH) near ground level and a good LH sidepull/jug. RH straight up for the slopey lip of the boulder, then LH onto the slab and mantle to top out via a very thin and sharp RH crimper. | ||||
V1 | ★ Easy When You Know How
Middle of the face on the up-hill side of the Capture The Flag boulder. Sit start on small edges. Pull onto the face and up. | ||||
V0 | Sneaky Pocket
The boulder just up-hill from Capture The Flag. Sit start with left hand undercling and right hand side pull. Straight up to top out. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Old Tricks
A bit of fun. Jump from Boulder directly opposite the Capture the Flag Boulder to the top slopers/face of Easy When You Know How. Mantle out. | 1m | |||
V4 | Farhad Dyno
Start with hands matched on underling on low flake and jump to the top. An eliminate. FA: Farhad | ||||
South Hill Forest Struggle Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Struggle Town
Start off two adjacent crimps on rim of boulder left side, then traverse right along sloping lip to a tricky mantle around arete onto slab. | 2m | |||
South Hill Forest Wolf Spider | |||||
V5 | ★ Wolf Spider Crawl
Sit start half way in the hole with good left and right edges. Pull on and reach to the 'V' sloper, then follow a rising traverse of slopers up and right to better holds closer to the arete. Large Boulder to the left is out. | 2m | |||
V4 | Sleepy Lizards
Sit start on obvious left side jug. Trend right to a powerful mantle to top out. FA: Shota, 9 Avr 2015 | 2m | |||
V3 | Howl
Sit start with left and right hands on horizontal ledges. Move up to left and right side pulls and mantle to top out. | ||||
V3 | ★★ The Mock Turtle Graze
Sit start on left hand side with left hand in low jug and right hand on sloping edge. Make a few moves right along sloping edge and mantle out. FA: Robert Brooks, 15 Août 2015 | 1m | |||
South Hill Forest UFO Boulder | |||||
V1 | Bum Rush the Show
Pull on to good jugs under the low table. Get on top. One good mantle. Lowest of low-balls. | 1m | |||
V0 | ★★ UFO Mantle
Sit start with hands on right side of gigantic edge. Head slightly left and mantle out. | 1m | |||
V3 | UFO Traverse
Sit start on right hand side of gigantic edge and traverse left on sloppers and mantle out on left hand side of boulder. Équip.: Thananthorn Suriyasenee FA: Ed Heddle, 9 Août 2015 | 1m | |||
V3 | ★★ Spanking Alice
A left to right traverse taking a journey through the four tiers. Start on the shelf, make a big move to the second tier. Traverse it right before making another big move to the third tier. Keep traversing right to gain the fourth and final tier and mantel. FA: pamelalansbury, 13 Jan 2021 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Eat My Dirt!
A hidden gem on the hill. Lay down in the back of overhang with hands matched on the slopey crack. Pull on and traverse the crack left and mantel out. FA: pamelalansbury, 13 Jan 2021 | ||||
South Hill Forest Scarred Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Scarred for Life
Crouched start matching lip hold then up to flat 'jugs' in scar, left to good crimp, then up to good sidepull/flake and mantle to top out. | ||||
South Hill Forest Dodo Bird | |||||
V2 | ★ White Belt
Stand start on thin edges then straight up the slab finishing directly. | 4m | |||
V2 | Singlish Smears
Right side of the slab. | 3m | |||
South Hill Forest Crucifix | |||||
V1 | ★ Freddy Jams
Sit start using obvious jug and crack. Make your way up the crack to top out. | 4m |