Noeuds dans Secret Crags

What if I told you that there was a plethora of modern sport climbing at Mount Stuart with morning shade, lower offs and a 2 minute walk from the car? Well this magical place exists and offers a new climbing lifestyle for locals with easy mornings and café stop in’s akin to the Blue Mountains. The area comprises 4 main sectors and wide variety of grades and steep juggy climbing which is uncharacteristic to Mount Stuart. A helmet is recommended as tourist have deliberately thrown rocks down the cliff in the past.

Visiting climbers are advised that a significant proportion of the cliffs lie in Department of Defence (Army) land. Trespassing on defence land is an offense. The Townsville City Council (TCC) controlled cliffs require a permit for climbing and/or abseiling. Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed. Mark Gommers is negotiating with the TCC to remove certain onerous restrictions such as a permit and indemnity insurance.

Short, powerful and pumpy.

Your first mission, should you choose to accept it, is to get to the 3rd bolt. From here make your choice and rendezvous to the UTR anchor on the right or the SM anchor on the left.

Your first mission, should you choose to accept it, is to get to the 3rd bolt. From here make your choice and rendezvous to the UTR anchor on the right or the SM anchor on the left.

Features a reachy move - "Come on span man, span that thing!"

Cruxy start on small crimps, floods in the wet!

Who doesn't like a spicy finish? At the second last bolt traverse left and into the corner. Once you are in the corner then come back right onto the exposed juggy face to reach the anchor.

After a powerful mid section, take your time to read the rock at the top.

Quest up the featured trench and join right into the finish of Rust in Peace.

Punchy boulder crux.

Operation pumper with an explosive finish.

Flows nicely on crimpy solid rock.

Crux-less, sustained climbing. Start as for SQ for first 4 bolts then trend left to link in to DBP.

Sustained and continuous line on small holds leading to a reachy and juggy finish.

The MEGA link up! Starts up first two bolts of DBP, then diagonally R across the entire wall to finish at UTR.

Steep, long and powerful. Grade 27 if you avoid using the jug shield to the right at the 6th bolt of Death by Parsnip.

The fig tree at the start is in. Trend slightly left at the roof below the anchor for finish crux to anchor jugs.

Shares same finish as Pressure Drop.

Well protected climb with steep hand jamming finish up splitter crack! U bolt anchor.

Climbs the prominent arete which is surprisingly featured! A brilliant climb with a challenging start. Recommend to clip the 2nd bolt early before entering the start crux moves to the obvious ledge above. The optional two bolt extension ('Turn to Gold') is thin, and goes at grade 24.

It had to be climbed! One for those who like to grovel up old school chimneys, you know who you are.. Take great care with the huge precariously balanced orange shield. Cams up to #5. Access via protected scramble L of Barbarian.

Visiting climbers are advised that a significant proportion of the cliffs lie in Department of Defence (Army) land. Trespassing on defence land is an offense. The Townsville City Council (TCC) controlled cliffs require a permit for climbing and/or abseiling. Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed. Mark Gommers is negotiating with the TCC to remove certain onerous restrictions such as a permit and indemnity insurance.

It's better, down where it's steeper, under the vines!

Sustained and requires you to keep at it

Starts up the black section with obvious two finger pocket.

A killer finish, strong fingers required!

Climbs the striking arete!

Shares same 1st three bolts as Slab Ambassadors and then traverses right onto the arete and shares same anchor as Devocean. Optional grade 21 finish if traverse left at end via one extra bolt to reach Slab Ambassadors anchor.

After 1st 3 bolts trends left. A slabtastic finish and a must do for any slab connoisseur!

One of the cleanest cracks on Mt Stuart. Worth getting off the beaten track. Takes up to size 0.75. Well protected lay backing fun. Dbb for lower off under first rooflet. For access, rap down Secret Gardens then follow cliff line for 30m

From half way down the Under The Radar gully, walk west 12m meters to exposed short cliff.

Climbed ground up in true Mount Stuart style. U bolt anchor.

The crimpy start moves can be bypassed by entering via the Mr Brownstone crack to the left.

Up the 3 dimensional corner, the holds are beside you, clever girl. Climbed ground up. U bolt anchor.

Finger crack with a cruxy start which is protected by a bolt and located on the sloping ramp. U bolt anchor.

Climbs up the exposed and bouldery arete.

The final evolution, has a flying start.

The evolution of Charmander, shares the Charmander anchor. Starts on steep and fiery face left of the arete.

Short and exposed finish. Significantly easier finish if you go right and then traverse left along top jugs to reach the anchor.

If only it was longer! U bolt anchor.

Visiting climbers are advised that a significant proportion of the cliffs lie in Department of Defence (Army) land. Trespassing on defence land is an offense. The Townsville City Council (TCC) controlled cliffs require a permit for climbing and/or abseiling. Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed. Mark Gommers is negotiating with the TCC to remove certain onerous restrictions such as a permit and indemnity insurance.

Finger lock the stop-a-block.

An excellent crag warm up and beginner climb, using the fig tree at the start is part of the delight!

Direct start to Rainbow Drop. Starts 2m left on the goldish rock and links into RD after 6 bolts.

Originally went R to the top through the splitter crack. Much more pleasant to repeat using the added bolts and the anchor located under the roof.

Ventures through the overhanging roof.

Joins briefly into the Golden ticket finish jug and then traverses out right and up the magical headwall for a fairy-tale finish!

Features it's own golden ticket move half way up.

A magnificent climb! Starts up the steep and short wall around the corner at ground level located below the main arete. Mantle onto the ledge and then journey up the inspiring and technical arete. Trend left for finish moves to anchor.

Climbs up to the technical open book corner.

At the ledge before the anchor climb to the left for an easier finish. Grade 21 if you climb direct up arete using the right hand face ('Purple Rain' finish).