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Voies dans Lower Slab

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Affichant les 10 voies total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
16 Dream Weaver

A well protected, sustained and enjoyable face. Start up black slab 10m L of Ian's Lost Chance. Bolts (hangers required) plus medium nuts and cams.

  1. 35m (16): Up right trending cracks (nut placements) and up slab past 7 bolts to sloping ledge and DBB.

  2. 35m (16): Up left to overlap to bulge then continue right following bolts. Up dinner plate holds to ledge and DBB.

  3. 25m (12): Trend left past natural pro to short headwall and up slab. 4 bolts to DBB.

Need 8 bolt plates and 9 draws plus nuts.

Descent note: Can be done with a 60m rope, although last rap is 31m . Otherwise walk to top of mountain.

FA: R. Weiter & D. Pantic, 2003

Trad mixte 95m, 3, 8
15 Ian's Lost Chance
  1. 40m (14): The vegetated right-trending gully and crack.

  2. 50m (15): Traverse left then up the flaring crack.

FA: K. Vos & J. Hurn, 1992

Trad 90m, 2
18 Stoned Alone

Start on low-angled slab below the gully of Ian's Lost Chance. Need 9 bolt plates and 10 draws.

  1. 40m (15): Start 10m left of Free Burma and same as start for Lambs to the Slaughter. Up easy slab and cross Ian's Lost Chance on a slabby bridge. Continue up slab, trending left to DBB at rings below a steeper wall. 7 bolts

  2. 40m (18): L and up the vertical wall. Continue up easy ground to DBB at rings.

Descend as Dream Weaver.

FA: R. Weiter & N. Gledhill, 2010

Sportive 80m, 2, 10
19 Well Stoned
  1. 35m (15): Start as for Stoned Alone to last bolt, then trend right to belay at rings.

  2. 40m (19): Straight up steep face then easier ground to belay at rings.

FA: R. Weiter, H. Carrad & J. Iles, 2012

Sportive 75m, 2, 9
14 Lambs To The Slaughter

Start below the gully of 'Ian's Lost Chance' as for Stoned Alone. R-trending diagonal slab climbing formed by a dyke crossing the lower slab up to The Terrace. 2 hangers. 3rd bolt is a carrot shared with Free Burma. When you clip that keep going right with your feet on the dike.

FA: M. Gidding & D. Moyses, 1991

Sportive 50m, 3
16 Free Burma
1 16 48m
2 14 27m
3 10 50m
4 4 35m

Probably the longest route possible at Mount Frankland. The first pitch is a good access route to The Terrace.

  1. 40m (16): Straight up past 5 bolts and natural gear to DBB and rap anchor on The Terrace. Three stars for this pitch. Long and consistent slabbing at the grade with a few bits that will have you thinking. With the right mindset there are foot jugs where you need them and it's a cruise. If your out of form on granite slabs it WILL be memorable.

  2. 27m (14): From left side of The Terrace, climb straight up for 3m to a bolt then traverse left along weakness towards and obvious indentation. Move up to another bolt, and continue up slightly leftward to belay on left side of Wreckage Ledge (using single bolt + natural gear).

  3. 50m (10): Straight up, trending slightly left for 50m. Belay in a convenient crack. All natural gear.

  4. 35m (4): Solo to top

FA: D. Moyses, M. Gidding, D. Wagland, G. Phillips & K. Langley, 1991

Trad mixte 160m, 4, 8
18 Free Willy

Start 5m right of Free Burma. Very well protected. 11 bolts (hangers needed). Lower off 2m right of Free Burma lower-offs.

FA: R. Weiter, H. Carrad & J. Iles, 2012

Sportive 38m, 11
17 Burmese Tiger

Start 15m R of Free Burma. 10 bolts (hangers required).

FA: R. Weiter & D. Rao, 2009

Sportive 38m, 10
16 Purring Pussies

he white water streak 10m R of Burmese Tiger. 9 bolts (hangers required. Can be mossy and wet.

FA: R. Weiter & D. Rao, 2009

Sportive 36m, 9
26 Je suis un gros lard

Walk past main wall for a further 2 mins till you are bellow an obvious roof flake 20m above path. Gear through roof, then 3 bolts.

FA: E. Mandyczewsky, 1999

Trad mixte 3

Affichant les 10 voies total.

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