Ascensions de TDM

one of my favourites in Wolgan. really cool move through the roof followed by sustained and super good finger-locking sequences. Didn't do well on the onsight but was able to send it on my second trip no probs. foot slipped a few times and I was hanging just on my fingerlocks - that's how good they are!

Excellent finger crack and some tricky stuff out of the roof , great climb !!!

Best route of the weekend! The finger crack section has incredibly satisfying finger locks..the whole climb was just stellar! everything had good pro. Loved 0.3-0.5 cams. And lots of medium nuts. Only saw now from the description that I didn't actually finish it.. As I rapped off the chains.. Oh well.. Guess I'll have to do it again 😋

You sort of question your gear selection for a route when you already placed 6 wires in the first 8m of the route and have the epiphany that the finger section is yet to come. "Will I have enough wires? I still have like fifteen different cams though."

Cams couldn't provide the solace I needed, still my gut told not to commit to the roof without the 'wire' artillery. So I hung about, wedged in the chimney for 30 mins or so waiting for my mate to finish his Conspiracy and send a double rack of Arapiles's fav piece of gear.

Oh the roof! Oh the roof! "No not the onsight". Disappoint ran down my veins as I flew down, been defeated. Arno Ilgner says, "A warrior never attaches him/herself with the goal." I would have probably had the goal tattooed on my forehead, if I were into ink.

Probably THE MOST fantastic climbing awaits after the roof:

Finger locks that lock your heart to the crack.

Slabby feet cruxes that make you dance like Elvis.

And wire placements that inspire confidence of a 316 ring.

Gear beta: I placed 24 pieces of gear in total and 15 of them were wires. Half of the remaining cam placements were the 'undercam shite'. I reckon this route can go entirely on wires.

Another stellar line! Watched the shade dissipate as i racked up. A little run out at the start for me but on good holds, a couple nervous moments, one notable on a poorly placed cam which i couldn't adjust but found after one more move there was a good stance. Went to the single U bolt on the ledge to clean on abseil, in hind sight may be the tree would have been a but easier to clean from (i hadn't see Will's update to the route here and the sun bleached tat didn't look as inviting as the shiny ring). Trundled a block the size of an A4 ream of paper near the start. Thanks for your patience and direction in the cleaning Jeff!

First route of the day. Really awesome finger crack after the less than ideal start. Some of the loose seeming blocks are quite scary but after you turn the lip it is totally dreamy. Don't bail left to the bolts at the ledge because some of the more exciting moves are above that and for the full tick you need to go to the tree anchor!

Flash placing gear. 8m of brilliant and sustained thin/finger crack (that I found quite challenging), and lots of "pretty good" crack climbing. We really should trundle those loose blocks in the bottom 1/3rd to make it an even better route. I thought this was tougher than Tranzister (though not as good).

Placing gear but with chalk all over it I can't claim an onsight. I think this is better, harder and longer then tranzister. Great rock on this one.

nice finger crack

roof and following finger crack was way harder than the first half, but really nice climb!

Finger crack! Awkward move through the roof into sustained locking up the slab

Amazing!

Incredible route, has it all! So psyched to get this onsight! Was touch and go there for a bit, it somewhat redeemed my efforts on Wars of the Roses the day prior.

Fingerlockin' good!

Wolgan classic! Awesome climbing

Oh my god this climb is good... GREAT finger crack. The Adam Clay variant is far better - step right around the over hang...

Amazing. One of the best routes I have ever climbed and first sustained finger crack. I have to lead this route

Awesome climb. Gets better as the crack gets cleaner and bigger.

More heavenly finger locks and a funky roof to boot.

with Steve.

Great crack, gotta work hard up top!

superb. great and sustained crack climbing. can't remember when i first climbed this and have done it a few times since