Voies dans Wolgan Valley

Start 5m right of VOTR. Past 3 bolts to DBB at break.

Start 6m right of H.

Up to bolt then pass another bolt. Right then up to bolt. Trend left to DBB belay off H.

Start up Virgin on the Ridiculous to a sandy ledge, continue up to a bolt then traverse around the arete past two carrots to belay on Flying a Kite.

Mixed route on carrots. Take many bolt plates (11!) plus medium-sized cams. To access climb Harlem, Mother's Drugs or Virgin Flight.

Start 4 right of MD.

1. 20m (23) Flake to crack then to break. Right to anchor of Cactus.

2. 18m Left and up small corner to top of slab.

3.48m Right and up ramp and corner.

1. 8m Scramble to top.

Mixed climbing, three carrots and DRBB. Wires on the first flake, committing move to carrot, then easy up funky feature with threads and carrots all the way. Don't need any cams. Does need a bolt to protect the crux at the start. Retro-bolt of an old death route, should have been retro'd properly.

Stem and crack climb your way to glory.

Start: Start 6m R of 'Agent Orange' at initial 'C' in a cave with a fine corner crack leading out of the top.

1. 21m (18) Up steep finger crack corner to ledge. Belay on Cams, wires.

2. 15m (18) Continue up thin crack and overhang to ledge and belay behind the tree.

3. 30m (18) Follow the R-facing corner to large bulbous tree. Up the dirty slot behind to a good ledge.

4. 12m (16) Up corner to ledge. Step left (around arete) to Rap anchor or continue another 10m to top.

Descent: Abseil 40m to a small ledge with two ring bolts just left of pitch 2 belay, then abseil 35m to the ground.

1. 18m (19) Follow the right facing corner to a ledge with a thread belay.

2. 13m (19) Up the overhanging corner to a tricky move to reach the arete, belay on a small ledge.

3. 21m (16) Continue up the crack and corner to a ledge. Belay from trees.

Descent: Abseil 49 metres from the trees.

Start marked DC 7m left of Grunter corner.

P1 - 40m (14). Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Veer right at last bolt, clip next bolt then head up to small ledge and 3BB.

P2 - 20m (11) Up slab (2BR) and wide crack above then right to good ledge. Multi BB and chains at top of Dan the Bulldog P2.

Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Stop at chains at 30m and lower back to the deck.

Originally led with a 120 foot rope and two pieces of gear - the tree at 10m and a piton bashed in a hole (removed on second). Andrew Penney unknowingly bolted a similar line going straight up, 'Death-bed Confession'. An ascent of Sod in the original style is no longer possible but its description is preserved below. Start 4m left of Grunter at the foot of an easy angled face (Sod Wall).

1. 45m (13) Up wall (tree runner at 10m) then up trending slightly left to arete and up to cave. Peg belay.

2. 15m Up the arete to tree anchor.

3. 24m Out onto ledge to the left, around nose and up to top. Tree anchor.

Start below the tree. First pitch (15) is 40m with 7 bolts. Runout to 2 rusty bolts right by each other not far from the tree, and then 5 above the tree. A 2 bolt belay leads into the 2nd 20m pitch (17) with 4 bolts and a 2.5 friend. The bolts are not all easy to spot. Chains and ring on ledge.

From the chains at the top of “Dan the Bulldog”, mantle the ledge on the right and traverse 5m right, then follow the short finger crack up under rooflet. Over rooflet and stem to the top. Belay off tree 5m from edge.

Originally climbed as part of trying to reach the upper coke ovens cliff from the top of the Knuckle.

Pro is mildly spaced but there.

Follow corner crack to abseil sling on tree

Fantastic hand crack widening to offwidth. Most don't bother with pitches 2 and 3.

Start: At the crack 3 m R of Grunter.

1. 30m (19) Overcome the overhang then jamb your way to the hearts of millions. Now has rings in addition to the traditional tree anchor on large ledge. Best with 2 x #4 C4s for the offwidth.

2. 30m (-) Up dirty chimney.

3. 21m (-) Up corners to top

All the old carrots have now been replaced with rings. This now provides a very convenient awesome single pitch route with rings at the first belay to rap off or continue up the two upper pitches.

One of the classics of the cliff. Varied climbing.

Start: At marked 'MM' at large flake crack.

1. 25m (16) Up flake to top of pedestal. 3BB.

2. 20m (18) Up wall diagonally L to BR. Continue diagonally L (poor pro) easily to ledge (feel free to add a bolt) then up to ledge with a small tree and 2 rings .

3. 20m (17) Up to ledge and across 8m L to ledge then up slab and groove on R (2BR) to stance at base of L-facing corner with a small tree and 2BB.

4. 25m (18) Up corner to cruxy top-out. Tree anchor.

Descent = rap 50 m from slim tree 10 m East (R facing valley; look out for loose rock) to large ledge (top of Sizzler) and rap rings. 40 m rap.

Up short hand crack to ledge, then up sand filled finger crack to diagonal squeeze chimney. Up through to detached pedestal.

Pitch 2 belay tree now has sling and locker, it is possible to lower off this to the ground using a single 80m

1. 18m (18) Aesthetic fingertips corner up to a bolted anchor in a sandy cave. Most only do this good pitch.

2. 21m (-)

3. 30m (-)

4. 30m (-)

1. 34m (15) Up lovely corner to two bolt belay/lower off. Takes many #2 & 3 camalots. Watch rope length when descending off first pitch! You can make it on a single 60m doubled if you swing over towards decline and fall.

2. 9m (17)

3. 13m (-)

1. 25m (20) Awesome slick hand crack after you surmount the initial two metres of choss. Super duper worthwhile! Bolts and tat to lower off.

2. 25m (-)

The face between the arete of Our Way, and the corner of Back Off (perpendicular to Microcosm). Straight up the face, avoiding the corner/crack and the arete. Thin, balancy, technical moves of boldly spaced bolts. Finish up the arete on the right side of the face (formed when Back Off becomes a chimney).

Black/Grey painted carrot bolts.

Another great line envisioned by Giles Bradbury who first climbed it at 28M1. It has seen very few (2?!) free ascents.

An historic classic. Hot Henry Barber climbed this and The Weirding Wall in a day to produce the first two 22's in The Wolgan (and arguably NSW).

1. 15m (22) Up Sandy corner. Traverse left under roof with hard moves towards the lip, then up the layback corner to 2 x carrot bolt anchor at small stance, with in-situ improvised rap-point (as of 2018).

2. 40m+ (??) Up sandy V-groove system with sections of clean climbing to the top.

Starts at the carrot-bolt belay at the end of P1 (22) of Flashpoint.

Up sandy/loose corner as for Flashpoint P2 to carrot bolt out right. Traverse directly across carrot bolt to seam crack, and up left-leaning seam-crack for 30m via 4 more carrots and lots of fiddly gear. Be careful of loose blocks.

2 x carrot anchor on small ledge below topout, with in-situ improvised rap-point (as of 2018). 50m rap to ground.

The top pitch might be the best on the crag, shame about what it takes to get there.

Start: Start at the corner about 8-10m L of 'Dr Freeze'.

1. 30m (17) Mild. Up the corner for about 12m then onto the slab and doddle up L for 15-20m to the belay ledge and DRB. Mostly trad plus maybe a carrot or two (stainless glue-in).

2. 18m (23 M1) Sport. Good 23 climbing up to a couple of stopper moves near the top of the pitch that will be 27+. Pull on a couple of bolts.

3. 22m (21) Sport. The awesome shallow groove, beautiful sustained moves the whole way on perfect Blueys stone.

Maybe the best route in the Wolgan?! Fantastic climbing up a gorgeous face spectacularly perched way up high. Start under the middle of the gorgeous orange face.

1. 45m (22) Techie thin corner then move a bit R up a long face to the half-height roof, bust L over this to the anchor just above.

2. 15m (22) Head L.

3. 20m (22) Up to DRB at the big break under the roof.

Named for the snow storm that enveloped the first ascent party.

P1 (* 37m 18) to DRB P2 (* 45m 21) Up L to awesome exposed crack through big roof and up sheer wall above. Will earn more stars as it cleans up. DRB. Rap the route: 10m, 40m, 35m.

Take a full rack, brackets and a #1.5 Fr for above 3rd bolt. Rap 35m off DRB.

The arete 8m R of TBFA. Good climbing, almost worth a star. Rap 45m off DRB. We did pitch 2 but not clean yet, please keep off.

Start: Poxy diagonal crack, mostly slabby, in grey rock, about 100m R of the arete project,

Start: The chossy L-facing corner crack just L of the prominent "beak" feature.

Not classic, and not well protected, but probably the easiest way to top out the upper cliff in this area. Climbed multiple times in the 70s to do big swinging abseils off the "beak" feature near 'Far Queue'.

Start: Start under a chimney/gully/corner thing about 150m R of FQ2, and maybe 100m L of the top of Western 'Gully'. It's marked with a faint old square.

Start about 400m right of the ascent path after a fairly long broken section of cliff. Start at some block on the right side of a prominent white wall (like a mini-Dogface). This feature is visible from the Wolgan Rd. Marked "Z".

1. 45m (16). Up and right to a wide corner crack. Straight up to the roof then step right to the start of a good corner. Climb the corner.

2. 45m Follow the corner to the top.

Recommended. Start 40m right of Zeppelin in an obvious left-facing corner.

1. 25m (16) Climb the corner to the start of a chimney.

2. 40m Follow the chimney and corner to the top.

"F" is marked at a crack 120m right of Zero. All other details unknown.

A pleasant climb and a good line. Looks harder than 14. Start 150m right of Zero at a clean crack on a grey wall.

1. 30m Up pleasant jamb crack to a V-chimney. Tree anchor.

2. 20m Up obvious broken corner, slightly left of flake, then around the block and roof to gain ledge.

An extremely serious undertaking requiring confident leader & second. Start approx 200m left of the shale gut on the ascent path at a huge open book corner that forms a giant yellow sickle at the top. Start on the right side of the corner below a jumble of rocks.

1. 10m Scramble up to below main flake system.

2. 50m Follow the right flake all the way to the top

3. 15m (20) Up the wide, overhanging crack over loose blocks to a small resting spot. Up over first roof then traverse right to a ledge. Nut anchors

4. 30m Follow the route rightwards to the top.

A cliff splitting line that reserves its crux for the very end. Soft rock. Take large pro. Start marked "SoS". 6m right of Traversy at the left of the two great grey cracks.

1. 26m. Go up little walls etc into the chimney and up to the roof. Jamb the left crack to a small stance.

2. 44m. Follow the crack to a stance just above a very decomposed section.

3. 15m (17) Up corner into cave below roof. Jamb out around the roof (exposed) and on to top.

This climb is not described in the 1984 guide.

A fine line that is suprisingly short on protection when you need it most.

Start 100m left of the tree covered amphitheatre at the obvious crack running leftwards up the wall before the cliff sweeps into orange overhangs. At this point you are nearly directly abopve a house in the valley below.

1. 45m. Up the short broken wall and crack to a tree on ledge. Up around the overhang with a heave ho, then up the marvellous jamb crack. Follow the crack into offwidth, swear like crazy, then up to a large tree. Nut anchor behind.

2. 12m. Up the fine corner crack behind to tree anchor.

3. 12m. Scramble up as you will to top.

A lot of scrub detracts from the line, however the jambing on pitch 2 is good. The lower half of the route looks atrocious.

Start 150m right of Idiot Wind at a horribly dirty moss covered wall with acres of bush and scrub covering the lower half of the line. Start on the right side of the tree covered amphitheatre. There is a big scrubby corner capped by a roof at half height about 8m left of the start.

1. 15m. Wander up broken mossy wall then up over blocks to belay below crack (hidden somewhere inthe mossy scrub).

2. 36m. Straight up the crack, then left to base of next crack to beat the overhang.

3. 12m. Follow the crack to the top.

Take large protection.

Start 30m right of Bloodsucker at the entrance to the tree-lined gully. Start behind bushes below corner with small overhang at 15m.

1. 35m. Up obvious crack line in corner to tree below overhang. Treat tree with care, over the overhang, past second tree to ledge. Belay on tree.

2. 50m (crux). Up via cave, left wall and wide crack into second small cave. Up inside cave, out to ledge and tree, and then follow offwidth crack, excaping near top by traversing right.

Start 80 right of Indecent Exposure and about 6m right of a rotten overhang. A short clean corner can be seen starting about 20m up.

1. 17m. Solo up right to tree, then up short corner crack to stance below the impressive corner crack.

2. 30m. Sustained jambing up crack, then right up ramp to tree anchor.

3. 35m. From thin crack on left, wander up wall to top.

start 90m right of Paean below sloping flake crack under the middle of a short wall with corners on both sides. There is an obvious flake pedestal at the top.

1. 30m. Up short wall then crack past scrub to top. Up or around flake via lefthand move. Abseil off sling around chockstone. A possible second pitch could be added.

Start 50m right of Rain Soft at a small overhang 5m right of the edge of a large sandy cave.

1. 30m. Over block, up through bulge (short left slanting wide crack) and continue up sloping corner / ramp to tree.

2. Continue up gully to top if you are keen enough.

Start 15m right of Anything or Nothing at a right facing corner crack.

1. 14m. Up crack to tree in crack. A second pitch up the wall may be possible. This would increase the grade.

Strenuous. Start 30m right of Golden Jaffle at left slanting crack and curving flake.

1. 11m. Up crack then around flake and up to tree anchor. A couple more pitches could be added up a corner gully.

Start 50m right of Geordie Boy on the right of a rotten overhang and sandy cave.

1. Up chimney to tricky exit at top. Tree anchor.

start 20m right of Classic Chimney in a wide chimney.

1. Walk up to back of chimney, then straightforward chimneying to chockstone anchor

2. Continue chimneying to small cave

3. Continue on. The last few metres are severe climbing up a semi-overhang.

Start 50m right of the Mouse Trap Chimney at a crack running straight up the middle of the wall.

1. 30m. Up crack to tree anchor below large boulder. This pitch is harder than it appears from below.

2. 10m. Up boulder, moving diagonally right to tree anchor below wall with layback crack in right corner.

3. 30m (crux.) Up wall, then traverse right across to position above the overhang at top of layback corner. Up crack and traverse right onto wall. On to tree anchor.

start 120m right of Mariner One at a chimney in a right facing corner. 6m left of this chimney is a steep rotting orange wall.

1. 30m. Up chimney past chockstones and continue as you will to the top.

Start 120m right of Anti-Cancer on a short wall below an offwidth crack up the wall.

1. 30m. Up short mossy wall and crack to offwidth. Straight up the crack with sling protection. Continue as you wish to the top.