Voies dans Wolgan Valley

Fantastic hand crack widening to offwidth. Most don't bother with pitches 2 and 3.

Start: At the crack 3 m R of Grunter.

1. 30m (19) Overcome the overhang then jamb your way to the hearts of millions. Now has rings in addition to the traditional tree anchor on large ledge. Best with 2 x #4 C4s for the offwidth.

2. 30m (-) Up dirty chimney.

3. 21m (-) Up corners to top

Stem and crack climb your way to glory.

Start: Start 6m R of 'Agent Orange' at initial 'C' in a cave with a fine corner crack leading out of the top.

1. 21m (18) Up steep finger crack corner to ledge. Belay on Cams, wires.

2. 15m (18) Continue up thin crack and overhang to ledge and belay behind the tree.

3. 30m (18) Follow the R-facing corner to large bulbous tree. Up the dirty slot behind to a good ledge.

4. 12m (16) Up corner to ledge. Step left (around arete) to Rap anchor or continue another 10m to top.

Descent: Abseil 40m to a small ledge with two ring bolts just left of pitch 2 belay, then abseil 35m to the ground.

Start 20m right of TC.

1. 26m (16) Corner to cave. Possible belays into the cave on doubtful rock, or after the cave on better rock

2. 30m Over roof to ledge. Over another roof then up corner.

3. 18m Up crack to top.

This is a good route to access the 'Upper Cliff'

One of the classics of the cliff. Varied climbing.

Start: At marked 'MM' at large flake crack.

1. 25m (16) Up flake to top of pedestal. 3BB.

2. 20m (18) Up wall diagonally L to BR. Continue diagonally L (poor pro) easily to ledge (feel free to add a bolt) then up to ledge with a small tree and 2 rings .

3. 20m (17) Up to ledge and across 8m L to ledge then up slab and groove on R (2BR) to stance at base of L-facing corner with a small tree and 2BB.

4. 25m (18) Up corner to cruxy top-out. Tree anchor.

Descent = rap 50 m from slim tree 10 m East (R facing valley; look out for loose rock) to large ledge (top of Sizzler) and rap rings. 40 m rap.

1. 18m (19) Follow the right facing corner to a ledge with a thread belay.

2. 13m (19) Up the overhanging corner to a tricky move to reach the arete, belay on a small ledge.

3. 21m (16) Continue up the crack and corner to a ledge. Belay from trees.

Descent: Abseil 49 metres from the trees.

The right-hand crack line on Upper Baldy. Four pitches with P2 being the crux. Most climb it in two pitches but it was originally climbed in four. Start up the left (diagonal) crack off the top of the huge treed pillar (as shown in topo), although traversing the lip to the RH (vertical) crack has also been done. Once on top, the Stiletto abseil anchors (DRB) are only 15m to your left (west), it's 2 45m abseils back to the halfway ledge.

Start marked DC 7m left of Grunter corner.

P1 - 40m (14). Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Veer right at last bolt, clip next bolt then head up to small ledge and 3BB.

P2 - 20m (11) Up slab (2BR) and wide crack above then right to good ledge. Multi BB and chains at top of Dan the Bulldog P2.

The first climb to be put up at the Coke Ovens.

Start 12m right of MO at small twin corners.

1. 27m (14**) Up easily to big tree at foot of crack. Follow crack directly up to 3-stemmed tree on good ledge & belay on tree.

2. 33m (13) Easily up into cave. Move right onto arete, then directly up crack to large tree in crack, Around tree without killing your belayer by dropping rubble, up arete and wall on right to tree belay.

1. 34m (15) Up lovely corner to two bolt belay/lower off. Takes many #2 & 3 camalots. Watch rope length when descending off first pitch! You can make it on a single 60m doubled if you swing over towards decline and fall.

2. 9m (17)

3. 13m (-)

THE big corner on the left side of the main wall. Apart from the grunty start it's got a surprising amount of similarly graded climbing the whole way. Its a nice long single pitch if you have enough rack.

It is also posssible to exit traverse to the chains on Barten's efforts below the top. If you top out you can rap about 5m from a tree at the top of the cliff to the chains.

1. 12m Up sandy corner to stance in a cave (1 old bolt)

2. 15m (16) Exciting move for the grade out cave and up to a small stance (or run P2&3 together)

3. 27m (15) Up crack and over slight bulge, continue to a stance at the base of a right facing corner.

4. 24m (17) Up crack and over bulge to a small stance 5m above a small tree.

5. 22m (17) Climb bulge and up the headwall to the top. Dirty and not much gear towards the top. Belay of trees and bushes back from the edge.

Can be done in 3 pitches by linking P1 & P2, and either P3 & P4 or P4 & P5.

Up the beautiful hand crack corner then easily to thread and piton belay.

A long excellent pitch up an aesthetic curving arete that is mostly bolt protected. Bring a single set of cams between finger/fist size and a couple of long slings. Start on the little ledge above the ground. At the top belay off carrots - to descend walk 10m right to chains around large tree (50m rap - two ropes required).

Major left facing corner crack. There is a rap chain halfway (rusty and not glued-in, but made of ~7 bolts). All the webbing at the top has melted through from the fires, and the trees are dead and dodgy, best option is walk around 10m to large living tree well back from the edge.

Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL of knocking rocks loose from the top (you will no matter how careful you are), the soil is incredibly loose (Mid-2020).

Start 4m right of X.

1. 45m (16) Over roof, up corner to ledge.

2. 20m Up crack to top.

Nice long corner handcrack, take plenty of hand-size gear. Unfortunately the first move is very cruxy, and as always in the Wolgan there is some dodgy rock.

Good, well protected wall climbing. Take wires and small to medium cams.

Start below the tree. First pitch (15) is 40m with 7 bolts. Runout to 2 rusty bolts right by each other not far from the tree, and then 5 above the tree. A 2 bolt belay leads into the 2nd 20m pitch (17) with 4 bolts and a 2.5 friend. The bolts are not all easy to spot. Chains and ring on ledge.

A great slab, finishing at rap chains at 2/3 height. Mostly bolts but a medium cam and a long sling for a thread at the top are needed at minimum to make it safe.

One of the better finger cracks in the Wolgan. A superb climb following an excellent line on good rock. For the full tick you need to go to the tree anchor at the top which makes the route about 35m. If you only have a 60m rope though you can step left along the ledge to the bolted chains and miss out on some exciting moves above. From the ledge it's 31m to the ground - so a 60m just reaches on stretch.

Superb technical climbing up a amazing line that is really quite outrageous. Very sustained throughout but well protected.

Look for the rap chains 3m to your left about 5m below the top. There is another set of chains 5m above (!), at the topout.

Start 15m right of S.

1. 22m Corner to base of corner.

2. 15m Corner to roof.

3. 15m (20) Left through roof.

4. 20m Corner to top.

A mammoth line. The first pitch is the quintessential corner crack - with great pro and moves and can be done as a classic pitch in its own right. Pitch 2 has some moments finding way through hanging blocks to nice exposed seats on top of blocks under roof with bomber belay gear a move higher. Pitch 3 is exhilarating and a must do adventure. Pitch 4 starts up a clean corner crack , onto a ledge, pull over the steep bulge and up to a nice belay.

Rap beta: Using the tree with slings, from the top a 50m rap to the top of P1. Another 20m rap from there to the ground.

Great sustained face climbing.Start up ramp at BE initials to horizontal (med slcd's) then onto face and up passing 7FH's and one BR , veering right at top to original chains and u-bolt. Rebolted Sept. 2014 (previously 8mm dynas).

1. 15m (16) Although it feels a lot bloody harder. Start over bulge then follow corner crack to tree belay.

2. 42m (15) Up continuation finger crack to a small ledge before stepping left and following a wider corner crack to the top.

Start 15m right of TT.

1. 40m (15) Up corners to base of gully.

2. 30m Up gully to top.

Mixed climbing, three carrots and DRBB. Wires on the first flake, committing move to carrot, then easy up funky feature with threads and carrots all the way. Don't need any cams. Does need a bolt to protect the crux at the start. Retro-bolt of an old death route, should have been retro'd properly.

1. 18m (18) Aesthetic fingertips corner up to a bolted anchor in a sandy cave. Most only do this good pitch.

2. 21m (-)

3. 30m (-)

4. 30m (-)

Start 4m right of CF.

1. 9m Up crack.

2. 36m Corner and overhang to belay.

3. 27m Up corner to ledge. Exit left.

4. 9m Move right above P3, up corner to top.

Engaging climbing, with exposure and the odd run-out. Double ropes are good, Well protected if you can place gear. A good sphincter tightening experience for mutant latte drinking sport climbers. Rebolted 2007

Start: Start at the shattered pillar beneath crack on R side, which is 'Scimitar'. Shares start.

1. 35m (18) Up crack then L and up wall past BRs to ledge with DBB.

2. 18m (16) Wall, bulge, BR's to ledge with DBB

3. 35m (17) L to thin crack and up, BR's, to roof then up to belay in small cave.

4. 20m (15) Up and traverse L then wander on up via ledges and breaks to DBB on top. Rap anchors nearby for descent.

Flake a few metres to the right of the Cool Tool corner.

1. 25m (20) Awesome slick hand crack after you surmount the initial two metres of choss. Super duper worthwhile! Bolts and tat to lower off.

2. 25m (-)

Up and right a bit to a rotten cave. Up left edge of cave to a break below a roof. Move left and swing around roof to a corner. Up to glory

Enjoyable face climbing. Almost a sports route with 6 bolt runners. Starts 2m left of Zarathustra (marked). Traverse 5m right to big tree for rap off.

Follows the bolts up the ironstone bands and through the big scoops. Optional wire placement between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Tops out with 2 bolts just over the lip. Rap off tree in the corner a few metres away.

Thin. Joins into the same finish of Khe Sanh at the halfway point (same medium cam and sling for thread required)

Maybe the best route in the Wolgan?! Fantastic climbing up a gorgeous face spectacularly perched way up high. Start under the middle of the gorgeous orange face.

1. 45m (22) Techie thin corner then move a bit R up a long face to the half-height roof, bust L over this to the anchor just above.

2. 15m (22) Head L.

3. 20m (22) Up to DRB at the big break under the roof.

Named for the snow storm that enveloped the first ascent party.

Left corner. After topping out of the crack, scramble up to tree belay.

First half is some nice finger/hand jams but over the lip and after it gets real chossy unless you come out to the left arete in the latter third of the climb.

Start 10m right of P.

1. 40m (19) To block then over roof to scoop.

2. 20m Crack to top.

A good looking continuous line splitting the face, starting above a low pedestal. The good jambing runs out at about 40m at a small alcove which makes for a comfortable belay. Could be done as one pitch if you've managed rope drag.

Length from rap/belay tree at top to ground is a little less than 60m. Good access to Upper Cliff.

Start 25m right of Z.

1. 30m (18) Corner to roof, pass bulge to cave.

2. 30m Traverse left to crack then up to corner and top.

The first pitch is 40m to a tree-belay. You can traverse 5m left past a short jam crack (just below the aforementioned tree) to the anchors for Liquid Sky at the end of P1, and rap to the ground (a single 60m rope JUST reaches on stretch).

1. 27m to belay ledge (3BB).

2. 31m Exposed traverse right then follow the bolts up to tree belay.

Each pitch has 5 bolts. Descend from rap above Helzapoppin

This soaring corner was an audacious effort for 1971. Great climbing but most rap off after pitch 2 at carrots with maillons to avoid choss on pitch 3. 38m to ground.

Start 100m right of T3 beneath a huge arc.

1. 18m Crack to cave/recess. Continue on crack to ledge.

2. 20m (21)Crack to ledge beneath double roofs. Bolted anchor.

3. 18m Over roofs, up arc to end of cracks. Onto ledge then left to cave/recess.

4. 9m (unprotected) Up wall then trend right to cave.

Originally led with a 120 foot rope and two pieces of gear - the tree at 10m and a piton bashed in a hole (removed on second). Andrew Penney unknowingly bolted a similar line going straight up, 'Death-bed Confession'. An ascent of Sod in the original style is no longer possible but its description is preserved below. Start 4m left of Grunter at the foot of an easy angled face (Sod Wall).

1. 45m (13) Up wall (tree runner at 10m) then up trending slightly left to arete and up to cave. Peg belay.

2. 15m Up the arete to tree anchor.

3. 24m Out onto ledge to the left, around nose and up to top. Tree anchor.

6m right of OA.

1. 12m (8) Juggy slab to arete.

2. Up arete.

3. To top.

Straight up the line of carrots (optional wire placement higher up). Ignore the scoopy holds on Scanner just to the right! Crimpy and sequency for those without reach.

Excellent, sustained, varied face climbing on hard water polished stone. Start 7m R of Bartens Effort at large tree. Bridge up tree , clip BR and up to ledge. Thin moves lead left to a desperate mantle. Straight up wall to another hard section by 6th BR. Then left 1m to large hold and fire up wall on small incuts to top. 6BR , 5FH , 2BB + Ubolt. Rebolted Sept 2014.

Mixed route on carrots. Take many bolt plates (11!) plus medium-sized cams. To access climb Harlem, Mother's Drugs or Virgin Flight.

Follow corner crack to abseil sling on tree

great climbing

Start 25m TP.

1. 10m (14) Crack to small corner.

2. 10m Small corner.

3. 35m Chimney then corner to top.

Start 60m right of S.

1. 24m Chimney to cave.

2. 33m To chockstone.

3. 15m (9) End of roof and up chimney. Up gully to ledge.

A bloody beaut. Takes a lovely line up a big wall. Needless to say the rock is superb and clean.

A burly start leads to a seemingly endless pitch of quality face/slab questing.

The bolts are standard Wolgan relics, approach with usual grim acceptance. A true 80m rope will just get you down with rope stretch.

Sling/maillon anchor on tree. 16 bolts.

Stay low when traversing onto the line of bolts. Quiet hard if you climb up into the hucos and traverse across. 2BB on ledge as you top out hard to find

1. 33m up choss and finger crack/corner to tree belay.

2. 18m desperately L and up into corner

Beautiful looking orange wall up top. Same start as Barrel Organ.

Pitch 1: 35m, Grade AU 18. Take medium cams, wires and bolt plates.

Climb 6m to a ledge (good pro). Bouldery move to get on the slabby face (cairn is establish to step on, high left foot). Follow the line of carrot bolts which can be run out, keep your eye out for any placements. Step right for a semi hanging 2BB.

Pitch 2: 30m, Grade AU 20

Hug the arete for the first few moves, climb up and don't forget to admire the might chossy crack roof of "Virgin of the Ridiculous". Thin moves to the left lead to some questionable rock which provides ample rest before the real fun begins (crux, fixed hanger). Pretty thin and sustained afterwards (carrot bolts and cams).

Descent:

Rap 1: 50m from the two carrot bolts at the top, they have permanently established bolt plates and locking carabiners on them. Land on the big ledge next to the huge tree.

Rap 2: 10m to the ground. Use the tree as an anchor.

Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Stop at chains at 30m and lower back to the deck.

A jaw dropping line. Walk from Newnes campsite on maintrail left of river for approx 150 meters then turn left uphill on obvious trail between two stone cairns. Wind your way up into a saddle and up and left you will see a large white patch of cliff. Break trail and mosey up spur to elevated platform just right of white rock and base of route (shiny bolts).

Starts just right of large white patch of rock, below prominent crack line. Bring doubles in the small size cams and a number 6 camalot (trust me , you will know when to place it). You can link pitch 1&2 but its a long one. If linking pitch 1 + 2 bring alot of everything.

P1.(20) Up to base of crack passing 7 stainless BR's then delicately up crack to small stance above good large wire at 25 meters. Belay is med/large cams.

P2. (20) Continue up crack 25m to semi hanging DRB. F.A built rebelay at next ledge though easier to just belay from semi hanging DRB.

P3. (18) Strenous moves to get onto wall employing small trees , up crack for a few meters then veering right on ironstone passing 6 BR's up to DRB on ledge. 65m rap from here to ground.

If accessing Upper Baldy ignore the belay at the top of pitch 3 (DRB). Instead, step left 2mtrs to BR , mantle and belay just above at new DUB rap station. (From here it is exactly 70 meters to ground).

Start 20m right of CD.

1. 15m Corner to ledge.

2. 12m Corner to ledge then on as for OG.

Steep finger crack with offwidth start.

Start: 25m Right of YL.

1. 30m Right crack to corner. Corner to large ledge.

2. 20m (14) Corner to top.

Superb 2 pitch face climb on mixed gear. Mostly bolted bolt plates needed. Starts at 8m high crack 20 m right of ITNM. Up crack, then follow 7 bolts right to flake via hole, and up to DRBB 30m from ground. Third bolt is difficult to clip. Follow 9 B for pitch two to abseil anchor

Great line and climbs very well. Start in the crack corner or on the slab arete (climb marked on the arete) and follow the crack, getting harder til it is possible to step R onto the ledge on top of the pedestal. Descent: Abseil from chain on ledge to deck (24m)

Start 20m right of TOTP.

1. 25m (19) Corner, around overhang, up corner to cave. Bolted anchor.

2. 25m Up corner to ledge.

3. 6m To top.

Up short hand crack to ledge, then up sand filled finger crack to diagonal squeeze chimney. Up through to detached pedestal.

Pitch 2 belay tree now has sling and locker, it is possible to lower off this to the ground using a single 80m

Start as for S.

1. 12m Dirty but easy off-width to the ledge. Can be combined quite easily with P2 for a mega pitch. #4 cam is useful, but not essential.

2. 36m (19) The main pitch is excellent varied jamming through low-angle cracks and around vague overlaps. Bring a big rack of gear. The dirty off-width at the top is hard to protect, and the top-out is onto rubble and scree.

55m abseil from tree at the top of the cliff to the ground. 2 ropes essential.

Start where Garbage Guts Gully reaches the halfway ledge.

1. 18m Corner then wall to overhang.

2. 33m Crack then traverse right and up face to tree.

3. 6m Traverse over slabs to top.

Sustained. Good, well protected (carrots) slab climbing. Long reaches between small positive holds. Take some small to medium cams to supplement the carrots. Descent: Abseil chain from ledge to deck (24m)

very close to conspiracy, good climbing