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Ascensions dans Sektor Fred vom Jupiter comme Hang dog

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Affichant les 3 ascensions total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité Grimpeur
Dim 10 Déc 2023 - Sparchen
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter
9 Vatertag - avec Klara R Sportive 20m Classique
Fabian Michel
Did all the moves, but I have to spend a little more time on the beta before being able to send this. Crux section for three draws with open holds in an overhanging wall.

 
Dim 14 Mai 2023 - Sparchen
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter
9+ Facile Drunk as a Skunk — 3 essais - avec Frithjof Winkelmann Sportive 20m Classique
Fabian Michel
One try for putting in the quickdraws and figuring out the top. Should have sent it during my first redpoint go, but I fell in the very last move of the route, to the jug next to the anchor. Had skipped the last two quickdraws, so I probably took the biggest whipper I've taken so far (10+ meters), but the route is so overhanging in the lower part that I just fell into air and didn't even touch the wall. Couldn't climb the first crux in my last try.

Beta for the top part: after resting, stay low and take a pinch with the left, put left foot up and out to the left on good hold, right hand gaston, right foot up and far to the right, left hand undercling, right hand to crimp, clip. Then move up and left and don't forget the one place where the otherwise bad ledge to the left is actually good. Right hand up in sidepull crimp, left hand just next to it on large sloping hold. Either clip or skip last two quickdraws. Left drop knee and left hand up to pinch, right hand intermediate, right foot up, turn right hip inwards, bump right hand to better hold. Left hand not to bad pinch on edge but further to the left into small pocket (would have sent with this beta most probably, but only realized that it was easier afterwards), again right foot up and hip inwards, right hand to pinch, feet up and left hand into jug above pinch.

 
Dim 7 Mai 2023 - Sparchen
Sektor Fred vom Jupiter
9+ Facile Drunk as a Skunk - avec Frithjof Winkelmann Sportive 20m Classique
Fabian Michel
Beta: 1st crux: take good sidecling as a gaston to reach up to good flake, match flake on top, right drop knee, take lower right end of the next hold, left heelhook and with left hand into crimp. 2nd crux: left hand good pocket, right hand undercling, left hand sloper, shuffle feet and reach up right to relatively good incut crimp. Cut feet, right foot far up right, left foot hanging, match hold, dynamically up to good pocket with left (then still some not so easy moves to good hole on left). Definitely check out the last vertical part again - it's not so easy.

 

Affichant les 3 ascensions total.

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