Ascensions dans Sektor Fred vom Jupiter

nice moves

Short but pumpy one.

Boulderproblem... baeh...

one of the best in Sparchen

Dont know why I didn't climb it second go, third go felt really desperate, but somehow worked out. Probably the best of the routes I have climbed in this sector yet! Older guidebooks rate this at 9+/7c+, but 9/7c feels more appropriate.

Did all the moves, but I have to spend a little more time on the beta before being able to send this. Crux section for three draws with open holds in an overhanging wall.

Cool crux with a crag that I couldnt quite jam in a useful way.

I thought I was going to send it 2nd try, took 6 tries instead.

Zu kalt heute. Aber zumindest trocken trotz Schmelzwasser.

Amazing route! Had to skip the last two quick draws to make the third crux work.

Beta: 1st crux: take good sidecling as a gaston to reach up to good flake, match flake on top, right drop knee, take lower right end of the next hold, left heelhook and with left hand into crimp. 2nd crux: left hand good pocket, right hand undercling, left hand sloper, shuffle feet and reach up right to relatively good incut crimp. Cut feet, right foot far up right, left foot hanging, match hold, dynamically up to good pocket with left (then still some not so easy moves to good hole on left). Definitely check out the last vertical part again - it's not so easy.

One try for putting in the quickdraws and figuring out the top. Should have sent it during my first redpoint go, but I fell in the very last move of the route, to the jug next to the anchor. Had skipped the last two quickdraws, so I probably took the biggest whipper I've taken so far (10+ meters), but the route is so overhanging in the lower part that I just fell into air and didn't even touch the wall. Couldn't climb the first crux in my last try.

Beta for the top part: after resting, stay low and take a pinch with the left, put left foot up and out to the left on good hold, right hand gaston, right foot up and far to the right, left hand undercling, right hand to crimp, clip. Then move up and left and don't forget the one place where the otherwise bad ledge to the left is actually good. Right hand up in sidepull crimp, left hand just next to it on large sloping hold. Either clip or skip last two quickdraws. Left drop knee and left hand up to pinch, right hand intermediate, right foot up, turn right hip inwards, bump right hand to better hold. Left hand not to bad pinch on edge but further to the left into small pocket (would have sent with this beta most probably, but only realized that it was easier afterwards), again right foot up and hip inwards, right hand to pinch, feet up and left hand into jug above pinch.

One try to remember the moves, sent it second try. Did not feel very hard today.