Aide

Le site d'escalade est fermé.

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Limit. de l'accès hérité de Dark Side

IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT

For continued access to remain open, the most important thing is for all climbers to immediately stop using the trail that has been the approach for many years (we'll call this the "upper trail"). This trail is now closed and must not be used. Anyone using this trail puts all climbing at Darkside in serious jeopardy.

Instead, we've built a new approach trail (we'll call this the "lower trail"). To use the lower trail, start out from the parking lot as you would for the upper trail, but very quickly you'll see a sign that directs you to the right and down towards the river. Take this trail down wooden ladders to the river level and turn left. Proceed for about 100m and you'll see another sign directing you to a trail on your left, heading back up the hill into the forest. Take this second trail about half way up and you'll find a new trail (turn right) that will take you all the way to the crag. There are several signs along the way (see photos).

If you see any climber using the upper trail, please politely explain the situation and prompt them to use the lower trail from now on.

Thanks for being responsible community members. Our access to this beloved crag is in all of our hands.

Éthique hérité de Dark Side

Do not climb here for at least 24 hours after rain. The sandstone is porous and is very brittle when wet.

There are a few routes at this crag equipped with top anchor hooks. These are to enable safe and convenient lowering only, and should never be used to top rope through.

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie
Fermé

The first route on the left after you climb up out of the grotto. Scramble up the gully a bit to get to the start.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

Leftmost route on the main wall. Crux coming off the treed ledge and around the bulge.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

A benchmark 12a in Nanaimo. Small pockets and edges lower down lead to the crux bulge at mid climb.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

Originally a run out trad route, now bolted. Follow the broken crack up to a cedar tree mid route. Feel free to use the tree, the FA did.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

Strenuous moves to the second bolt, then 10- the rest of the way. A direct start is more challenging, but many traverse in from the right at the start.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

The same strenuous start as Badda Bang, but the crux on this one is after the two bolt lines diverge, crossing over the arete in the upper half.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

Start just left of the big overhang, climb until you can traverse to the right above it then finish up the right arete.

FA: Andrew Mills

Fermé

The uneven corner crack in the middle of the wall. Where the crack forks mid route, take the left crack.

FA: Jon Houston & Greg Sorensen

Fermé

Same start as Cha Ching, then take the right option when the crack forks half way up.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

Requires big gear (4-5”). Move up the big crack past several blocks to a small cave mid route, then follow the small dihedral crack to the anchors.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

The parallel crack near the right end of the main wall. Takes pro very well but requires several pieces in the 3-4” range. Wide jamming skills required. Generally considered sandbagged at the original grade of 10a.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

As the name implies, it’s reachy. Start up the vertical face, move left to the arete, then back right to finish up the face. Strenuous throughout.

FA: Andrew Mills

Fermé

Hidden gem of a trad route at the right end of the main wall. Start up the finger crack to gain the small ledge, then climb the crux middle crack to the large ledge above. A single bolt protects the last few moderate moves to the anchor.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

OUT OF CONDITION

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

The arete at the far right end of the crag. Trad start and bolts at the top. A potential ledge fall from the crux keeps traffic to a minimum on this one.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

Re-cleaned August 2022. Multiple footholds and handholds broke off, making the grade more around 5.12c.

Fermé

The first 13 in Nanaimo. A dyno to a poor hold constitutes the crux.

FA: Greg Sorensen

Fermé

OUT OF CONDITION

Fermé

OUT OF CONDITION

Fermé

Requires large gear. The very wide crack to the right of the mossy slab across from Stumpa Lumpagus et al. Getting mossy despite being recently scrubbed.

FA: Greg Sorensen & Bill Reading

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

Partager ceci

Ven 16 Juin
Regardez ce qu'il se passe à Main Wall.

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