Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lun 13 Mai 2024 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10b/c ~5.10c | Hanche Gauche | ||||||
5.11c ~5.11b | Fruit d'homme | ||||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★ 5.95 | ★ Bon | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Mer 25 Oct. 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.8 |
Temps de Cure
- avec
PAB, Léa
3
5.8
Finished straight up through the bush to avoid soaking wet rock.
4
5.7
A few loose rocks remaining. Great pitch. Long but not much rope drag. | 210m | |||||
5.7 G |
★★ Voie de Rappel
- avec
PAB, Léa
1
grimpé en tête par
Léa
2
grimpé en tête par
PAB
Finished in the dihedral and large flake leading to "Temps de cure" second anchor. | 150m | |||||
Jeu 19 Oct. 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.4 G | ★ La petite ecole - avec Léa, Charle-Antoine | 15m | |||||
5.5 | Unknown easy route - avec Léa, Charle-Antoine | 15m | |||||
Sam 14 Oct. 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ L'Arrête | ||||||
Mar 10 Oct. 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ Passerelle
- avec
Léa
1
5.6
A little runout. I did a long pitch (70m) hoping to reach the tree anchor of P2. Didn't make it so I build a gear belay on an uncomfortable stance.
2
5.7
3
5.3
4
5.6
Tried going up the 5.7r but found it too committing while wet. Downclimbed and a few shenanigans later, found myself pulling a nice 5.7 roof crack move and then linking into the last pitch of "Soutien gorge" to avoid the (unfortunately) wet traverse and crack exit.
5
5.8
| 170m | |||||
Lun 2 Oct. 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.12a G | ★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee | 22m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
New highpoint: hands in the top crack, placed the .75 but didn't clip. Found new beta for that section as well as the exit sequence.
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Lun 2 Oct. 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Le diedral - avec Lea, Chantalle | 180m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Only climbed the first pitch while waiting for "wet dream" to clear up. Second half need a little cleanup. Great climb. The crux (5.7) protects very well.
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5.9 PG | ★★★ Wet Dreams - avec Lea, Chantalle | 110m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
P3 can actually be pretty well protected but the gear is tricky to get in.
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Sam 23 Sept 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.8 PG | ★★ Au bouleau mon homme - avec Léa | 25m | |||||
Thin moves getting to the bolt. Protected as high as I could in the crack with a black totem.
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5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- avec
Léa, Thomas, Sophie
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lots of people on the wall. We had two parties and decided to climb at the same time in parallel. Had a blast chatting while leading. It really goes pretty much anywhere on P2 and P3.
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Mar 19 Sept 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
1
5.5
45
2
5.7
60
3
5.6
35
| 140m | |||||
Mar 12 Sept 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Classique | |||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite | ||||||
5.10- | ★ Unknown | ★ Bon | |||||
Lun 11 Sept 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 G Difficile | ★★★ Gaston Boston | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.6 G Difficile |
★★★ La Granuleuse
1
2
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Sam 9 Sept 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Passerelle | 170m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
P1: 5.7 (60-70 meters), P2: 5.7 (30 meters) P3 : 5.8 (50-60 meters).
There are a couple of tree belays with slings and cord on them but they can be hard to find. Start at the bottom of a very low angled slab which becomes slgihtly more vertical. We had 2 60s and simuled a for 10 meters but probably because my partner went off route. Second pitch ends with a walk through the bushes on the right of the cliff, just below a 5.11 arch. Third pitch is nice! The roof move on the third pitch is probably why this is 5.8. There are a couple of loose rocks on the third pitch so be mindful of this. |
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Ven 8 Sept 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes | 18m | ★ Bon | ||||
5.10b PG | Eclipse | 28m | |||||
We ended up climbing it in two pitches, building a gear anchor after the slab, before the crux. I fell once on the crux, came back down to the anchor and made it. Interesting one to protect if you have a short reach.
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Jeu 31 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours - avec Noah Boudreau-Richard | 140m | ★ Bon | ||||
only 2nd pitch, 8+ variation
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5.8 Facile |
★★ Pinocchio P1
- avec
Noah Boudreau-Richard
1
5.8
| 140m | ★ Bon | ||||
5.8 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
- avec
Kexin Huang
| 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
P1 of "Pinnochio" into the direct P2 of the "Directe de l'Ours".
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Lun 28 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.8 Difficile | ★ Velerie Reverie | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
Dim 27 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.7 G | Terrasse a Lino | 15m | |||||
Belle fissure à doigts cassée avec quelques movements layback au début. Beaucoup de belles prises à l'extérieur de la craque aussi.
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5.4 G | ★ La petite ecole | 15m | ★ Bon | ||||
Good route to learn how to place pro. My boyfriend first mock-lead it and then lead it. Start was a tad tricky because eveything was wet.
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Ven 25 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | |||||||
5.6 | Les jumelles - avec Léa | 70m | |||||
Climb in one pitch if you have a 70m. Watch out how you protect the end of the second pitch to not risk dislodging a death bloc
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Lun 21 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite - avec Léa | ||||||
Gave it two tries from the ground. New highpoint: the jug before the last bolt.
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5.10- | ★ Unknown - avec Léa | ★ Bon | |||||
This is probable the only moderate that is well bolted for someone climbing at that grade. Nice technical moves.
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Dim 20 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix Les Arches | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Les Arches faciles P1
- avec
Gabriel Harvey
1
grimpé en tête par
Gabriel Harvey
| ★★ Excellent | |||||
Sam 19 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10b | Agoraphobie Direct - avec Yasmina | 20m | |||||
Took a fall in the opening moves. Came back down and sent it. There is a good runout in a tricky section up higher. I added an extended draw for the second leader.
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5.9 | ★ 5.95 - avec Yasmina | ||||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite - avec Yasmina | ||||||
Start of the line was wet so we aided to the first overlap and worked the moves ground up to the chains. Well protected. A flake marked with an X might come out soon-ish but held my weight fine.
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Sam 19 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
- avec
Gabriel Harvey
1
5.6
grimpé en tête par
Gabriel Harvey
3
5.8
grimpé en tête par
Gabriel Harvey
| ★ Bon | |||||
Le rappel du dernier pitch doit se faire depuis l'arbre avec l'anneau de rappel. Notre corde de 70m etait trop courte pour rappel depuis le 1er relais.
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Jeu 17 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Wet Dreams - avec Martin | 110m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Jeu 17 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse - avec Martin | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 6 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.7 Difficile |
★ All Fine
- avec
Jarek
1
grimpé en tête par
Jarek
did the 10a variation
2
3
grimpé en tête par
Kexin Huang
4
Did valerie reverie instead of going straight up
5
| 180m | ★ Bon | ||||
Dim 6 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | |||||||
5.6 ~5.5 | Les jumelles - avec Élie | 70m | |||||
P1 : 25-30 meters. Might be longer if you start at the base of the diagonal crack. Gear anchor
P2 : 30-35 meters |
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Mer 2 Août 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch - avec Léa, Jonathan Chardrand, Marina Lancon | 230m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lun 31 Juil 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10c G | ★★ King Can | 28m | |||||
5.9 PG | ★★ La vache folle | 28m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mar 25 Juil 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.7 G ~5.8 | ★★ Derobade | 25m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Very fun climb, felt a bit hard for the grade, probably because of the chimney/offwidth style that I haven't climbed super often.
Length : between 30 and 35 meters. Gear : #.3 to #6 |
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Dim 9 Juil 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 Facile | ★★ L'initiation | 210m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
A beautiful, easy climb. There are holds and protection everywhere. There are fixed anchors at the top of every pitch but can be hard to find if you're new to adventure routes. The route is much more fun if you're confortable with gear anchors as it offers more flexibility. Try not to overprotect if you plan on linking pitches as the drag can get pretty annoying.
Descent trail is a good 30 - 45 min. |
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Lun 3 Juil 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.10a G | Jeu du gear | 25m, 1 | |||||
5.8 PG | ★★ Au bouleau mon homme | 25m | |||||
5.6 |
★★ Voie d'evitement P1
1
5.6
| 120m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 1 Juil 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Pinocchio | 140m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf! | 55m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Astro | 85m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours | 140m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Sam 1 Juil 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.10 PG | ★★★ Tache blanche | 140m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.7 G | ★★ Voie de Rappel | 150m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.7 PG | ★★ Onglee | 160m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
5.7 PG | ★★ Voie d'evitement | 120m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 1 Juil 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10c G | ★★ King Can | 28m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.9 PG | ★★ La vache folle | 28m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Gruyere | 22m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 1 Juil 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.9 PG | ★★★ Wet Dreams | 110m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Ven 30 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours | 140m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
The climb was still wet when we started so I opted for the 5.6 variant right of the OW. Nice moves. On the way down, we TRed the direct second pitch (5.8)
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Dim 25 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Le Vieux Quai (Baie-Saint-Paul) | |||||||
5.6 ~5.7 | ★ Right Route - avec Laurie Hammond Desjardins | 8m, 7 | ★ Bon | ||||
Crux just before the relay.
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5.8 ~5.7 | Middle route - avec Laurie Hammond Desjardins | 15m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Dim 25 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 PG | ★★ Onglee | 160m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Climbed the first 70m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up.
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5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Linked P1+P2 into a 71m pitch
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5.7 PG | ★★ Onglee - avec Chantalle | 160m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Only climbed the first 60m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up
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5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse - avec Chantalle | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 24 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes - avec Léa | 18m | ★ Bon | ||||
Super humid day made this climb's crux interesting. We were also swarmed with little black flies. They chased us off the cliff after this climb.
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Ven 23 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation - avec Laurie Hammond Desjardins | 210m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Very fun. Found the anchors for the first 6 pitches, but couldn't find them for the last four ( Which I doubled with a couple safe rumours). Pockets everywhere for easy hand holds. Took about 6h total because we did it on the safer side. No clue how to go down with rappel after the sixth pitch. All good with a single rack with 0.3-0.75 doubled. Was able to fit a #6 and a #5, but could have done without. Road under is noisy and anchors are far away so communication with second might be hard. Cell phone coverage on the mountain. Make sure you follow the road and not the trail to get to the start. Bring good shoes for the way down as it is about a dirty 40 deg slope. Search for the Cairns on the left to go down.
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Ven 23 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.10b |
★★ Campanule
- avec
Cedrick, Simon
1
5.8
2
5.9
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.5
| 200m | |||||
Jeu 22 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
1
5.5
45m
2
5.7
60m
3
5.6
35m
| 140m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Swung leads with a new partner
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Dim 18 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10+ | Jambe Gauche | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip - avec Nelson | ||||||
Mer 14 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.9 | ★ 5.95 | ||||||
5.11c | Fruit d'homme | ||||||
Fell on the move to gain the arete (missed a hold).
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5.11b | La Poule | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Classique | |||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite | ||||||
Worked the first crux (overhang), then retreated two bolts from the top.
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Mar 6 Juin 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Astro | 85m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
LRS in 3 pitches with GG2 + duck backup and MT cache loop. A few practice falls at the start. Fixed a line and rappels on the left to look for new lines. Then went back up through 4th class terrain and rappelled the normal line.
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Mar 30 Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 | Fantaisie Spatiale - avec Paul | 100m | |||||
Paul lead P1, then I linked with P2 of "Blues de la brosse à dents"
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5.8 |
★★ Astro
- avec
Paul
1
5.8
30m
2
5.7
55m
| 85m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Swung leads with Paul who got all the good pitches (1 and 3).
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Lun 29 Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
- avec
Léa
1
5.6
2
5.5
3
5.4
4
5.4
5
5.4
6
5.4
7
5.6
8
5.5
9
5.5
10
5.4
| 210m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Never gets old! swung leads with Léa who went direct through the headwall!
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Lun 29 Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.10- |
Das ist mir wurst
- avec
Léa
1
5.10-
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.6
| 250m | |||||
Definitely more sustained than Hals-und. The first pitch is not the main attraction and definitely guards the entry to the climb. The rest of the climb offers great, varied sections with good belays. Retreat is possible with double ropes until the P4 bolted anchor. Has been mostly cleaned until halfway through P5. Small gear on P1, standard double rack with a single #4. Never placed the #3. I linked P3 and P4 but good rope drag management is required.
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Sam 27 Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- avec
PN, Chieko H
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 27 Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation - avec PN, Chieko H | 210m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Jeu 18 Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.7 |
Sinus
- avec
Pier-Alexandre, Kexin Huang
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.7
4
5
5.7
6
5.7
| 200m | |||||
Route is severely under apreciated. Once the start is located, The rest of the routefinding is relatively easy (for the area). We climbed it in 5 fifth-class pitches and one 4th class (6 total). The first half of the climb is very clean. The second half could use a small amount of love but is still clean relative to local standards.
The climb was perfectly dry up to the ramp with two or three soaked moves. Our last pitch (exiting the ramp) was soaking wet (dry lesser quality options seemed available). The grade is consistent with local old school grades. |
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Sam 13 Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Astro - avec Léa | 85m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Went to support Léa in leading the climb (she had previously sent it on pre-placed gear). On top of the usual wind, we were greeted with a light (but violent) snowstorm. 2-3 small falls and a few tears later, she made it and I cleaned!
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Dim 7 Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10b | Agoraphobie Direct | 20m | |||||
Fun sequence down low, well protected. Not as sandbagged as other 5.10 in the area
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Mer 9 Nov. 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ Astro
2
5.7
55m
| 85m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Léa tried to lead it but adverse conditions brought her back to the ground at the crux. I lead it, then she pink-pointed it on my gear. I then followed it to clean. Only the first pitch.
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Sam 29 Oct. 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
1
5.6
210m
2
3
4
5
6
7
grimpé en tête par
Noah Boudreau-Richard
8
grimpé en tête par
Noah Boudreau-Richard
9
grimpé en tête par
Noah Boudreau-Richard
10
grimpé en tête par
Noah Boudreau-Richard
| 210m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun lap with Léa. She lead 2 pitches to the headwall. Then I lead one bloc to the top.
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Dim 25 Sept 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 |
★★ Voie d'evitement
- avec
Léa
1
5.6
120m
grimpé en tête par
Léa
3
5.5
grimpé en tête par
Léa
| 120m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 25 Sept 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
| 120m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Best route I've climbed on 'le Dôme' so far. First pitch is a stellar 5 star climb in itself. Good rack management is required for this long pitch which offers constant exposure and difficulty. The remainder of the climb offers great climbing interrupted by a short "not so great" section. P2 and P3 can be linked but careful rope drag management is required, as well as being very comfortable at the grade.
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Mer 7 Sept 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix Les Grandes Dalles | |||||||
5.7 5.7 R | ★★★ Granuleuse | 350m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Simul in one pitch with a few 4-5m belays for cruxes. This climb is great. Much much better than the 'sport 400'. 1h55min ground to top. 51min rappel.
Gear spoiler: we brought single from #0 to #3, doubles from 0.4 to #2, triples from 0.5 to #1 with a full set of stoppers and tricams (2 black, two pink and one red). A standard double rack would be fine if climbing normally. I did place the 0.1 and 0.2 in the first pitch. Stoppers would probably work provided some gardening. #4 or #5 might be usefull if planning on doing the p5 dirty off-width variant. |
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Voie normale | 400m | ||||||
We started way off route on a friction slab with few protections. PA lead a ~200m simul-block to a tree belay. Not recommended. The pitch had few protections with friction and balance moves up to 5.9 over ~10m runouts. We then proceeded to climb 3 70m pitches to the top, swapping leads. We believe to have been back on route for those pitches. 1h51min for the simul-block, and 1h52min for the remaining three pitches. ~1h for the rappel.
Total time car to car for the three climbs: ~12h30min |
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5.7 | ★★ Sport 400 | 400m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Simul in one pitch. PA onsight-lead the block. 24 draws (30 would be better). 46 mins ground to top. 47 mins for the rappels. Rappel beta: with double 70m 8.4mm ropes, we did a 35m single rope rappel, then 4 full lenght simul-rappels to the ground. Note that the second rappel (first full lenght) we did bypassed the anchor shared with the climb and rope stretch got us exactly to the next anchor. Make sure you understand what that implies if you attempt this method.
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Lun 5 Sept 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.8
4
5.7
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Followed Léa with a new climber up this. She stopped at the end of P1 (already a lot of drag) and then climbed P2-P3-P4 in one long 72m pitch. Rapelling P2 with a single 70m rope got us to the slung tree without having to unrope.
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Mer 31 Août 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation | 210m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Quick lap with PA. 57m08s car to car.
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