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Noeuds dans 石门关 Shi Men Guan

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Affichant les 20 noeuds total.

Noeud
石门关 Shi Men Guan

This area finally began in December 2010 with 11 initial routes. There is still tremendous potential for more routes, including multi-pitch and traditional routes.

You can see the gorge from the road, but unfortunately upon getting off the bus you will have to walk for an additional 45 minutes or take a tuk-tuk or van for 15RMB.

Since the gorge is a designated tourist area, there is a 10RMB charge to enter. There is a neat trail that leads into the gorge and a chance for some swimming, which can be a pleasant diversion when it becomes too hot to climb.

From the parking lot, follow the stone tourist trail into the park for about 10 minutes. All of the routes are located just outside the massive gorge on 4 massive boulders, and are clearly visible from the trail. They are accessible via a very steep, dirt trail that links all of them together.

5.10a Flamingo Kid

This route is on the large boulder. There is a V0- boulder problem to establish on the comfy belay ledge. Excellent slab climbing. Worth it.

5.10d 被偷的粑粑 Stolen Baba

A thought-provoking and unique start is only the beginning for this rather enjoyable line. Great movement at the top.

5.10b 樱桃处女 Cherry Poppin’

Enjoyable, moderate slab climbing to a short arête (climb either side of the arête). The first route bolted in Shimenguan. “Please, be gentle…”

5.10d W.W.S.D.?

Fun slab climbing takes you to a little intermission ledge, then switch gears and do some powerful moves up crimps and ledges on the upper wall.

5.11a The Gardeners of Eden

Walk up the slab and do some easy moves till you get to a clearly-defined crux: a technical and cool mantle section. This route is more of a boulder problem than anything.

5.10b 花生酱在哪里? Where’s the Peanut Butter?

Underclings, slab, crimps, and edges. This climb is short but sweet. PB is in the Climb Dali fridge.

5.11b 亚当刃岭 Kritz-arête

A scary and insecure boulder problem up the arête leads to a sweet roll over and more climbing above.

5.8 BB Kuen Kuen Chu
5.9 啦领域
5.10a 魔鬼的徒弟
5.11c Moxis 在屋顶地上 Moxis on the Roof David

Stand up on the little ledge and move into a powerful and stretchy undercling section. A great route with non-stop climbing.

5.12d 血呕吐物 Blood Puke (Project)

This climb features incredibly technical moves on a vertical face. The route makes you puke blood right off the ground and doesn’t really allow you an opportunity to wipe your face off till the end (unless you possess esoteric off-width climbing skills). Excellent climb.

5.10d 红胡子的选择 Red Beard’s Choice

One of the best climbs in Shimenguan. Sustained and hard climbing using crimps, slopers, and handjams. The start is a little tricky to figure out.

5.12a 再见,谢谢你的挂片 So Long and thanks for the bolts

Delicate and insecure climbing up a groovy corner into a powerful upper wall of gently overhanging rock. Halfway through the route there is a large run-out through an easy, ladder-like section. If you feel scared then suck it up or bring a cam, anything from BD#1 to #4 will fit.

5.12d/13a Open PROJECT
5.10b 调情
5.7 烤羊肉
5.6 驴肉热狗
5.11b Vulcan 的玄秘

Affichant les 20 noeuds total.

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