Noeud |
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大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag
A hotel opened in the area, so as of November 2023, the crag is inaccessible Dragon River Crag is a small crag located around 20 meters from the Yu Long river. The crag contains only a few routes, however the upper hard pitches are on excellent rock. The crag is in the sun until late afternoon. |
遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag |
5.10b
Saw
This pitch breaks away from SCREAM after a few bolts then finishes at a mid-belay. A second belay located further up the route is for rapping off the upper pitch. |
5.12a
★★★ Old Fishermen
This is the extension to SAW and finishes at the top anchor. The mid-belay is only for descent due to the length of this pitch. |
5.9
Scream
This pitch finishes at the 1st anchor. |
5.12d
★★★ Dragon Encounters
This pitch fit the extension to SCREAM and finishes at the top anchor without stopping at the midpoint belay station. The mid-belay is for descent due to the length of this pitch. |
5.9
Wrong Turn
This route starts to the right of the others but finishes at the same anchor as SCREAM. |
金水岸 Golden River Side
|
金水岸 Golden River Side |
5.11d
★★ Golden River Side
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.12a
Five Years
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.11b
Seven Months
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.10b
Swindler
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.10b
★ Playboy
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.11c
Bless You In The Face 当面祝福
Four pitch route starting from the ground, joins several others at a belay station then clibs diagonally up and right for P2. continues straight up for P3 and P4. the higher you go, the more difficult it becomes. |
5.12c
Two Eggs
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.12a
Scoundrel / Bad Egg 坏蛋
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
Happy Dick 快乐鸡鸡
open project |
No Future 没有未来
open project - finishes at the mid point anchor of Happy Dick. |
5.12d
Obese Monkey
Open Project |
5.12a
White Men Can't Jump 白人不会跳
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.12c
Young Bees 追蜂少年
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.12d
Searching Dragon 寻龙
Pitch one 5.11C Pitch two 5.12D Pitch three 5.12B |
Yeman 亚芒
Open project |
大榕树 Banyan Tree
The Banyan Tree Crag is pleasant and located across the river from the touristy and real Banyan Tree Scenic Area. The climbing is on two sides of a large buttress. |
大榕树 Banyan Tree |
5.10a
★★ Heavy Rocks
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.10b
★★★ Nice Route
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.12b
★★ Redneck Lunch
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.11c
★ Treehugger
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.11b
★ Xiao ji
Easy start, easy finish. Crux frustrates people and have been called sandbag. upgraded from 11a, but maybe not...its actually not difficult, just balance and timing put together. |
5.11d
★★ New Day
sustained crux...good, but difficulty backs off too quickly |
5.11c
★★ False Reality
This is the route that spits many people off. originally graded 12b. low percentage and committing with high feet. |
5.11b
★ False Reality Extension
Pumpy but fun through an intimidating overhang. anchor material is marginal, but safe? I used them in 2018. |
5.12c
★★ Big mushrooom
first 2 bolts same as 5.11b. moves right past a mushroom tufa. |
5.12d
★★★ La Liao
Warning, fourth bolt on this routes looks in really poor condition. |
5.13d
★★★ Nine Deep, One Shallow 难度表
finger testing... one long draw at the crux helps immensely. |
5.12b
★★★ Monkey Fur 猴毛
Todd Skinners route. An Endurance Party. Old bolts weren't removed when it was rebolted so clip the shiny new hangars instead of the rusty ones. 阳朔的第二条线路,也是阳朔定级的难度基准 |
5.12a
★★ Shattered Ego
To the right of the Todd skinner route. a hold broke so it has lost quality. |
5.14a
Twelve Years
othewise known as the The Mirror becasue it is as featureless as one. |
5.11b
★★ Open Team
maybe its a crack? smear the feet and you'll be happy. try hard or go home. |
Open Project
Open Project. This is the extension of Open Team / 海选. Likely 5.14b/c. Due to bolt placement constraints some long slings are need to extend draws. The climb has 3 cruxes and no hands free rests. It finishes above the large overhang. Proposed name: A bead on the necklace of time. |
5.13c
★ Pietasters
shares start with "Open team". climbs all the way to the rope anchor. if you stop short... grade is reduced to 12d. |
快到达主墙时右转,沿小径走30米,即可到达。(这里有村民养殖蜜蜂,请不要触碰蜂箱。)Once you see the main wall, proceed right through a narro
快到达主墙时右转,沿小径走30米,即可到达。(这里有村民养殖蜜蜂,请不要触碰蜂箱。) Once you see the main wall, proceed right through a narrow path for around 30 meters. You’ll get to the Morning glory wall. BE CAREFUL the local villagers might be breeding honey bees 🐝 🐝 |
5.8
★★ Lounging Lizards
Very enjoyable climb for the grade. The hanger is missing on the last bolt (10/2019) but the climbing to the anchor is easy. |
5.10a
★★ Beautiful Day
Nice climbing on pockets. |
5.10b
★★ Happy Hour
Nice climb with a crux end. |
东北面 North East Face |
5.12a
★★ Leuhng Chong/secret food store
This route is hidden on the backside of the crag. the only route still climbable near the wall. there isnt an anchor. |
同门山 Twin Gates
Twin Gate incorporates Twin Gate Mountain, Twin Gate Mountain South Face and Twin Gate Mountain Western Tower. Twin Gate Mountain is the main climbing area offering excellent routes in a beautiful location amongst rice fields. The main crag is shaded in the afternoon and the river located nearby is a nice place to swim during the warmer months. |
同门山 Twin Gates |
Western Tower
100m left of the end of the main cliff is a separate karst tower. |
同门山 Twin Gates Western Tower |
5.10a
★★ Penthouse Platforms
This route tops out with fantastic (almost 360 degree views) of the surrounding Karsts. |
5.11a
Bicycle Tricycle Man
Pitch one 5.10B Pitch two 5.8 Pitch three 5.11A 55m rap to descend. |
5.9
Part Retrobolt of BTM
Just left of bicycle train. |
5.9
★ Jamming for Dummies
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
同门山 Twin Gates |
South Face
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
同门山 Twin Gates South Face |
5.10a
★★ Flash
Starts around left from Beautiful Shadow, past the hole back into the the main cave. |
5.10a
Scottish VS
Starts around left of Beautiful Shadow. Up the right wall of the hole through to the main cave. |
5.11a
★★ Beautiful Shadow
Starts left of the two caves with tables. A techy crux low leads to some powerful moves higher up. |
同门山 Twin Gates |
East Wall
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
同门山 Twin Gates East Wall |
5.12c
Flying Poop
split left off second bolt of blood into a balancy and crumbly dihedral, fingery moves up ...interesting rock. |
5.10d
★★ Blood
Left line on the pillar between the two caves with tables. The bulging crack of the second pitch is easily visible above the anchor. |
5.11a
★★ Blood Extension
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.11b
★★ Summer School
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.11c
★★★ Xiao Feiji
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.12b
★★★ Anti Polar
From the back of the cave to lower off midway to the front. |
5.12d
No Goats, No Glory / Big Plane Alternate Start
Right wall of the right cave, through the tufa/stalactites and then up to join Big Plane. |
5.11b
★★★ Big Plane P1
There is also one anchor before the overhang. |
5.11c
★★ Da Feiji P2 - Air Miles Extension
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.11+
★★ Da Feiji (pt3)-Frequent Flyer Finish
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.9
★★ Da Pi Gu 大屁股
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.11b
★★ Three point Five
Technical climbing to the right of DPG. |
5.10c
★★ Xin Jiang Black
1st Pitch: 5.10c, 10 bolts 2nd Pitch: 5.10b |
5.11a
★★ Hard On, Easy Off
From belay of Xin Jiang Black head up and right instead of up and left. |
5.8
★ Smokin'
Cruxy start geting onto the wall, then traversing right into the corner. Technical climbing on good rock. |
5.10d
★★★ Indulgence
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You. |
5.10c
★ Short Holiday
Bottom half is run out. A few wires might help. |
四方山 Square Mountain
Square Mountain includes a meandering staircase that will take you to and through two very large caves, Treasure Cave and Brother's Cave respectively. The crag is always in shade and can get very cold and windy during the cooler months. Some of the climbs are dusty and the protection is sometimes dubious. The climbing itself is generally excellent. |
四方山 Square Mountain |
Staircase Wall |
Staircase Wall
Many of the routes require a 70m rope. |
四方山 Square Mountain Staircase Wall |
Seven Up Eight down, Never Surrender, Pheonix II start on the right side of the first cave.Ant Fa
Seven Up Eight down, Never Surrender, Pheonix II start on the right side of the first cave. Ant Farm and Michael Jackson are located at the second cave |
5.10a
★ Seven Up Eight Down
Starts at the right side of the first cave. Shares the first bolts with Never surrender and splits left |
5.10b
★★ Never Surrender
Starts at the right side of the first cave. Shares the first bolts with Seven Up Eight Down and splits right |
5.9
★★ Pheonix II
Last route accessible from this trail |
5.11a
★★★ Ant Farm
It starts on the left of the second cave. |
5.11b
★★★ Michael Jackson
It starts on the right of the second cave. |
The following four routes are all accessible through the next trail and share the same small belay l
The following four routes are all accessible through the next trail and share the same small belay ledge. |
5.11a
★★★ Jumping Ship
First route that traverses left. A real treat at the given grade! One of the best in Yangshuo |
5.8
Too Many Hamburgers
NO FALL ZONE. Dirty and sharp Chimney. Not worth it. Not recommended. |
5.10d
★★ Everything Guy Returns
#sandbagged Hard boulder problem followed by distant bolting and a no fall zone. The anchor is high up in the weakness after the chimney. |
5.11d
★★ Up in Smoke
Last route on the right side |
Main Ledge and chunk of wall with the most easy to find routes.
Main Ledge and chunk of wall with the most easy to find routes. |
5.11b
★★★ Whipped Cream
First route on the left |
5.10c
★★ Long Long Life
The area is managed by Yangshuo Base Camp, whom operate a zip-line in Treasure Cave. Please be respectful. |
5.10d
★★ Rolled Oats and Yogurt
The area is managed by Yangshuo Base Camp, whom operate a zip-line in Treasure Cave. Please be respectful. |
5.11a
★★★ Pancake Flake
Excellent and sustained It climbs the beautiful flake that starts on top of the pillar. One of the best routes on the wall |
5.10c
★★★ Slowly to #1
Excellent and sustained. |
5.10d
★★★ Cat Meat and Tough Guy
Last route on this side of the wall. It shares the start with Beating Around the Bush and splits left climbing through the overhang |
5.10d
★★★ No More Beer
Accessible from the first anchor of Beating Around the Bush. It climbs straight up |
5.9
Beating Around the Bush
Last route on this side of the wall. P1 shares the start with Cat Meat and Tough Guy and climbs the ramping weakness till the first anchor. P2 traverses right and then up a short corner. P3 and P4 continue up the wide layback crack and should be linked together. Abseil the route. |
四方山 Square Mountain |
Treasure Cave
From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. At this point take a right and go through the fields. A staircase path will soon be visible, Taking you through the staircase wall, and all the way to the two caves |
四方山 Square Mountain Treasure Cave |
南壁 South Wall |