Noeud |
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Viñales
Viñales is the prime climbing destination on Cuba and an outstanding winter climbing destination on a global level. |
Campismo Area
Campismo Area is comprised of several sectors on the “south side” of Viñales. |
Campismo Area |
Kmacho Wall
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Campismo Area Kmacho Wall |
6a
De espalda a La Realidad
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c
Bar Casa
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
5+
Somos unos Porgusto
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a
Wifi con Azúcar
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b
Carta Cuba
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a
Queso Caribe
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
8b
Royal Pass
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b+
Cascarrabias
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Campismo Area |
Mogote Santero
A few routes on a nice northwest facing wall with loads of potential for more. |
Campismo Area Mogote Santero |
7b
Insomnio
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7b
Miel para Ochún
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a+
Sala Malecu
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Campismo Area |
Esquina Caliente
This is the sector located right at the turn off on Mogote del Valle that forms an impressive cliff just next to the road. The lower section of the cliff is well hidden by vegetation but once you make your way in you will see the routes that are mostly on grey rock. |
Campismo Area Esquina Caliente |
5+
Sibaricú
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a+
Pilar
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7c
★★ Madam Gruchenca
hard crux on small holds moving right after the third bolt. Easy after the ledge |
6c+
Naufrajio
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c+
Titanic
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b+
Tarzán
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Campismo Area |
Pared Campismo
This is the impressive wall on the right just before you reach the Campismo dos Hermanas. It is easily recognisable by the tall orange rock that also forms the line for the multi-pitch route Cuenta con la Pelóna. |
Campismo Area Pared Campismo |
5
Pantalones Apretados
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a
Vaca y Pollito
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b
Cuenta con la Pelóna
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a
¿Y Tu de que Te Ries?
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a+
Makandal
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b
Colombia y el Caimán del Caribe
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Campismo Area |
Esquina Aníbal
A small crag located on the back side of the Mural de la Prehistoria on a mogote called “Kai”. |
Campismo Area Esquina Aníbal |
7a
Nuestra Historia
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
8a
Recuérdo
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7b
El Hombre, la Hembra y el Hambre
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Campismo Area |
Esquina Festival
A small sector also located on Mogote Kai. |
Campismo Area Esquina Festival |
6b+
Deja que Te Coja
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c+
Chicos, no lloren
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Mogote del Valle
The most popular and closest crag in Viñales with plenty of sectors. |
Mogote del Valle |
Jaguayana
A shady but mosquito invested crag left of Cueva Larga. Most of the cliff is hidden by a big Jaguey tree that will also be your point of reference on the approach. |
Mogote del Valle Jaguayana |
6b
Diana
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c+
Avalancha
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c
Mister Feo
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b+
Tubo de Roca
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b+
Arco de Josué
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a+
Brutus
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c
Lluvia de Meteoritos
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a+
Aserejé
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b
Rasta Crack
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
8a
¡Hay Mi Madre!
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c
Dulce de Coco
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a
Katja Me Punza
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a
El Salto de la Pelúa
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a+
Catamarán
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c
★★★ Ana Banana
Climbs up the steep face just left of the corner on great pockets. Shares first bolt with Pikín. |
6b+
★★ Pikín
This route climbs the corner with nice laybacking up to the right wall. Shares first bolt with Ana Banana. |
6b
Bititi
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c
Tiburón Siguato
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a+
Príncipe Enano
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a+
Tacto Rectal
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7b
Miseria Prieta
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Mogote del Valle |
Cueva Larga
The big plus of Cueva Larga is that it is in the shade all day, the minutes is that you miss all the views of the Viñales Valley as you climb in a narrow “cave”. Cueva Larga is actually like a super narrow canyon formed by two walls, Left Wall and Right Wall with a small stripe of sky above it. It offers technical and tufa climbing. |
Mogote del Valle Cueva Larga |
Left Wall
This is the wall on the left as you enter the cave. Several routes are "outside" the cave (ie. on or before the large boulder/chockstone). Easy climbs at entrace of cave. |
Mogote del Valle Cueva Larga Left Wall |
5
★ Unknown 5
Climb the second line of bolts back from the boulder/chockstone. Follows a crack system which widens towards the top. Rock can be sharp. The last few metres are a little blank. |
5+
Unknown 5+
Just to the right of the Unknown 5, before the boulder/chockstone. Climb fairly juggy holds straight up, past the root system of a tree (watch out for poison ivy growing amongst the roots!). |
3+
★ La Via Mas Facil de Cuba
Easiest climb in Cuba, but still fun. Starts outside cave entrance, head up sharp rock on left wall. Has been well bolted since the guide book was published in 2005. Also, seems to have been extended past the original tree anchor to a bolted anchor, and the extension seems harder than 3+, at least 4 maybe 4+. |
4+
★★★ Disneylandia
At cave entrance, climb onto the boulder/chockstone. Follow tufa to anchors. |
6b+
★★★ Mambises y Maulets
The first route on the left wall after entering the cave. Start two metres from the downclimb and head straight up to the ledge with trees on it (anchors behind). Holds are small and footwork is precise. Crux is just below the ledge. |
7a
Calzo de Guagua
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
8a
Don Cojete de la Mancha
Directly across form the first big tufa on the Right Wall. |
7c
★★★ Amigos en el Tope, Ahora y Siempre
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a
Maybe
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a+
★★★ Contra la Espada y la Pared
Rebolted with glue ins, expansion bolt next to glue in at first bolt. |
6c
Ocucta Obsessión
Climbs the slightly overhanging but juggy area to the left of On Belay Hombre. The first bolts can be hard to see (torch or local knowledge useful). Watch out for the smelly bat cave as you clip the anchors. (Note: Guidebook gives 6c, but locals are adamant that it’s 6b.) |
7a
On Belay Hombre
Just left of Leche de Mipalo with brown hangers. Shares first last bolt and anchor with Leche de Mipalo. |
6c+
★★ Leche de Mipalo
This route goes up the white pinchy tufas at the end of the cave to a first anchor on a big ledge. There are 2 more bolts that link this route to the anchor of the one further right. Shares last bolt and anchor with On Belay Hombre. Pinchy tufas down low lead to pockets. |
7b
Unknown Right
This route starts on brown rock just right of Leche de Mipalo and shares the anchor with its extension. |
Mogote del Valle Cueva Larga |
Right Wall
This is the wall on the right as you enter the cave |
Mogote del Valle Cueva Larga Right Wall |
7b
★★ Por Arriba del Bolt
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a+
Alcohólicos sin Fronteras
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a
★★ Pelos de Rubia
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c
★ Baja y Chupa
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b+
★★★ Tetas Mediterráneas
Climb the obvious guppies on the steep wall on the right hand side interior of cave, just before the big tufa. The overhanging section is followed by nice face climbing. |
6b
Unknown 1
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a
★★★ Chipojo
The first route established at this crag. Climb the first big column to a ledge, then follow the easy ramp left for a bit, before topping out straight up. 2-3 long draws nice for below the anchor. Bolts with shackles (one worn and supplemented with a biner). |
6b
★★ Papi
This route climbs the first big tufa on the right wall. Continue staright up once on top of the tufa. If you climb left you are on Chipojo. Nice tufa climbing down low and sharper water runnels higher up. |
6a
★★★ Chipojito
Climb the second big column toward the ledge, trending right before you reach it. Once on the ledge, top out as for Chipojo. Long draws or a bit of back cleaning before the ledge will reduce drag. |
6b
Unknown 2
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7b
★★★ Contigo en la Distancia
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6c+
★ Fernando's Hide-a-Way
P1- 5 - 10m, 5 bolts – Sometimes called La Cuevita because of the small cave. Climb to the small cave and ledge. The cave is called Cueva Lechuza and has good views of the valley. P2- 6c+ – 20m, 6 bolts – trend left P3- 5 – 15m, 5 bolts – Best if linked with pitch 2. Watch out for wasps behind… Overall, best done if the leader is lowered back to the second anchor and belays the second up the whole route, before being lowered back to the second anchor. Abseil from second anchor to ground. |
7a+
★★★ Jerry y Mirol
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b+
Pelos en La Orira
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6b+
Hilo Dental
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a+
Unknown 3
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Mogote del Valle |
La Yunta
A small and not very much climbed (meaning overgrown) sector. It is actually the “outside wall” of the right side wall of Cueva Larga. |
Mogote del Valle La Yunta |
4
La Yunta
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
5
Jardinero
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a+
La Mulatísima
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
6a
Negrita
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
Mogote del Valle |
Guajiro Ecológico
This is the tall cliff with yellow / orange rock that you see from town. It offers single and up to 3 pitch climbs. Further right and separated by partially dense vegetation are additional sections with climbs. This sector sees the sun for quite long. |
Mogote del Valle Guajiro Ecológico |
6a
Ostraman
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |
7a+
Habla Bien
Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community. |