Noeuds dans Ethiopie

There's a two main crags near Addis. The most popular is Amora Gedel which has over 35 routes, the other is Medero, which continues to be developed.

The best crag near Addis with some solid rocks and a few multipitch routes.

Very distinct spur of rock of about 15 meters high

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

This steep wall has a wide varety of basalt, from sharp to smooth, jugs and slopers.There are two pitches, but none of the climbs were set together. Due to the difficult grades of the upper climbs, they are here presented as separate climbs. Climbers can connect the lower and upper climbs with a 60m rope and reach the top.

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

Diamond in the rough basalt. Light problems and technical moves. Go straight over the crux for the 10c or stray right to make it less strenuous.

Beginner/intermediate climbing on quality and varied basalt.

Spicy and sharp. This rarely climbed adventure above Tenish Tenish is defined by its creator, Niels T, as ‘a 5.11 climb for 5.12 climbers’. Carry a clean pair of underwear.

PG was the first line bolted on this wall in honor of my first baby, a Chile-Gringo mix. Bouldery start on this one. The best option to access Sheba and Austerity Measures.

‘My Brother’ in Amharic, turned out to be Poroto Gringo’s lil sister. Shares same anchor. Lots of lichen.

Hardest line on the wall goes into and around the large roof on the upper part. Get acrobatic for the Queen of Sheba. Niels made this one too.

The best climb of its grade at AG. This line starts at the mid-way point and goes to the crag’s highest point along the edge of a long arete. Bolts were donated by a group of Spanish dancers!

Bavarian Bernde’s masterpiece. Bouldery start, powerful first crux and a techy, small crimper top. The man had to quit smoking just to redpoint this one.

Fun climbing goes up the middle and then right side of the middle pillar. Tiptoe out an exposed arete at the top and go for the crux. Name means something like ‘jumping jesus on a pogostick’ in local parlance. Throw a piece of pro in a big horizontal crack for the nerves.

Sustained 5.11 climbing until the crux two-thirds of the way up. Get a long rest before attacking the dark basalt and fingery crux of the blue donkey. You’ll likely scream ‘waraj’ to get off this one.

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

A few degrees slabbier than the Poroto Gringo wall. Cracked Wheat is where it all started back in 2013. These are the crag’s most climbed routes, and you can multipitch to the top on bolts or gear.

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

The easiest 5.11 at AG with smooth climbing and great holds. Worth the repeat, over and over. Amharic for “heroes don’t die”.

Popular and safe climb that gets steep before the chains. Big holds.

Oystein, the Norwegian first ascensionist abandoned this climb below the final ledge on a couple of nuts. Today, the most popular trad route at AG. Note there are two sets of anchors at the top of P1, one for toproping or lowering if just doing the first pitch and another 5m higher for setting up the second pitch. P2 is well worth your time with lovely cracks, protection and movement.

The best for its grade and the most climbed route at AG. Hospitable, playful and friendly, like most habeshas.

AG’s first route was named for the stalks of grain trampled to get to the base of the wall.

1. well protected sport climbing up a steep start, then moves right onto a pillar of grippy basalt.

2. step off the pillar, which stands separated from the wall, back to the wall and then up a slab to the top. Carry some gear for P2 if your not into longish, empty spaces. P2’s crux has bolts

Get your friends climbing on this easy stroll up a small slabby pillar. Already has everyone hissing “eshi eshi”. Can be extended with a second pitch, then belay at the second anchor.

Get up Easy Eshi first pitch, but belay at the second anchor on a nice ledge (past some grass) Straight up to the top of the wall.

These two walls feel less connected than they actually are. Anbessa Wall offers long continuous lines, mostly cracks, of which there are still a number yet to be climbed. The Bushy Slabs seem dirty and full of vegetation, but will likely see more route development in the coming year or so. The base of the slabs is dense and bushy, holding back potential.

A must-do. Simply incredible line with aesthetic and athletic! This is AG’s most iconic line and wasn’t bolted until the end of 2015. Use 70m rope, but can be done on 60m if belayer stands on the first ledge. Anbessa is lion: hear the roar.

The hardest trad line at AG, this steep left-trending crack gets finger thin and then transitions to a vertical crack at the crux. Shares anchor with Anbessa. So far, unrepeated.

The first crack climbed on this wall, starts in the right crack of Anbessa Wall’s middle crack system and moves to the left side and up. Takes all sizes of gear, nice climbing and an exposed finish. Celebrate the historic battle with the rest of Ethiopia on March 2nd.

The Bushy Slabs. Short climb for beginners: ‘No Problem’. Can be done on bolts or gear.

Same start as Galatoma, stay on the lower, left-trending crack and follow a thin finger crack straight up to the same anchors. Free and feral like its creator.

Climb up and over to the higher left- trending crack, then up a thin ramp to the first bolt. Another bolt and then the anchors. Galatoma means thank-you in the Oromifa language.

AG’s one-move wonder! Go up some intermediate terrain and throw a couple of bigger moves to get over a bulge. Sail up the rest of the pillar to the anchor. Named after the famous veggie market in Addis for all the plants pulled off the wall.

In the beginning, villagers told us some farenjis had already been to AG and written their names on the walls. Turns out they weren’t farenjis but one W/Giorgis, scribbled in 1964 (Ethiopian calendar). The names are now part of AG’s steepest, most-challenging wall where Ethiopia’s real sport climbing test-pieces are found. The wall is a bit shorter on bullet proof basalt, which sometimes resembles limestone. Giorgis Wall has potential for several more climbs.

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

Ethiopia’s hardest sport climb has a long sustained crux with moves that most of us only see in the movies. Says Elad Omer, Addis Ababa resident pro climber: “you must be in Zohan shape” to mess with the Zohan.

Elad’s first contribution to the wall starts just below the graffiti. Before setting off, try asking yourself if you’d rather climb a Girogis or drink a Giorgis.

A bouldering start, then a rest before the crux that starts with a flat undercling pinch.

Use your balance to get through the start and pull jugs over the roof and up onto a large flake to the anchor. Classic 5.11 at AG and the easiest climb on Giorgis wall.

A continuous climbing with sidepulls.

First crux at the top of the dihedral, long reach on small holds, and an unexpected second crux below the chains. The Liger Army team put this satisfying line in under the chant “Liger Army Never Dies!”

A series of crags in a beautiful setting. Lots of potential for new bolted routes, or maybe trad if you're bold. There's also a few boulders scattered around.

Stunning wall with potential for some very hard routes

3 hard moves between the first two bolts lead to an easier ending.

cool route with nice moves

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

technical and resistant

A tall wall with some routes in the 5 and 6.

Follow the line of bolts to under the overhang.

Trad line up to the anchors of Perón Perón. You can also top-rope. Take care as the rock is breaking in some places.

Athletic 7a to the crossing with "great leap", then 6c. Superb.

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

Start as for Great leap downwards and trend left, then traverse under the overhangs to an anchor. Not very interesting, climbed to bolt the anchor.

Start on a 6b wall/slab, then possibility of belay before an 6c athletic section.

Start in the corner, below the small roof, clip the bolt and traverse right under the roof, then step over it. Straight up to the first anchors. Possibility to continue with one hard move (6c) and reach the top.

A steep 30 meters cliff with a huge roof. Stays dry in pretty much any weather.

Three separate cruxes of easier sections

Nice crux at the 2nd bolt, then sustained 7a to the belay.

Some difficult moves in the corner lead to a rest before a superb ending. Make sure you tie a knot at the end of the rope. 60 meters rope just reaches the ground.

No hard crux, but a very sustained section. Caution, a 60 meters rope is just enough.

7a to a rest before the overhang. Still to open after the break of the best hold of the crux, Penelope will probably have to wait a long time... Make sure you tie a knot at the end of the rope. 60 meters rope just reaches the ground.

slightly overhanging wall, perfect rock, nice moves

Easiest route of the sector. Two starts possible, same difficulty.

Start as for Source then follow the bolts left under the overhang.

First route opened in the cliff, under the rain. A rest with a good jam after the crux.

Many potential routes here with a steep start.

Some athletic moves, then the crux where it's better to be able to raise your foot high.

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

Long obvious crack easy to protect. When the crack stop, traverse on the right. Belay on the tree.

Right under the left side of jungle wall, next to Perón Perón. Big and steep boulder. May be more lines on the right.

Sit start and climb the flake on big holds until you get to the top of the flake. Top out to the left probably needs a pad or more courage.

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

Sit start and exit on a big pocket on top of the boulder

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

Grab the big holds and exit.

A small boulder with a surprising high number of separate problems

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

Two mixed climbs near Hyena point. More infos here: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108134251/daves-fall-hyenas-secret-hyena-point

See details: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108135069/hyenas-secret

Some climbing near the US embassy More details: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/114361645/the-craglette

See each crag for access issues, of which there are many.

See each crag for access issues, of which there are many.

See each crag for access issues, of which there are many.

See each crag for access issues, of which there are many.

Basalt crag with two bolted lines, location unknown. 6a/b and (unfinished) 6c/7b

There's also bouldering near Shashamene.

See each crag for access issues, of which there are many.

A group of cliff that haven't been climbed but potential for more routes. About 10 minutes walk from Medero Waterproof proper, to the climber's right.

Hill with some crags not yet climbed https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152657132113957&set=gm.10152238603286271&type=1&theater

No established climbing there yet.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152446979240966&set=pcb.10152855297476271&type=1&theater

Precise location unknown. Someone spotted a cliff there: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151774940910966&set=gm.10152059547496271&type=1&theater

And another on Wuchacha Mountain: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.10152203728131271&type=1

Potential crag without established routes, if you're up for an adventure.