Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
En Vau Rive Gauche Le Pouce | |||||
6b+ | La Paume
1
6b
2
6b+
| 60m, 2 | |||
6c | Les Petits Suisse
1
6c
2
6a+
| 60m, 2 | |||
6a | La Brioche
1
5c
2
6a
3
4b+
| 60m, 3 | |||
6c | Direct de la Brioche
1
5c
2
6a
3
6c
Same start as "La Brioche", it separates at the 2nd belay and goes left. | 3 | |||
En Vau Rive Gauche Grande Aiguille | |||||
4a | ★★ La Paillon
| ||||
5c | ★ Le G.H.M.
| ||||
4b | ★ L'A.M.E
| ||||
3c | Voie Abeille
| ||||
5c | Voie du Surplomb
1
5c
2
4b
3
5b
| 50m, 3 | |||
En Vau Rive Gauche Sirène | |||||
5c | ★★★ Pilier de la sirène
| 4 | |||
4c | Sirène Liautard
| 5 | |||
5c | La réforme
| 95m, 4 | |||
6b | ★★ Super Sirène
1
6a+
2
6b
3
5b
4
5a
The classic line up the front of the buttress. Very polished. | 90m, 4 | |||
5 | Couloir de la Sirène
| 100m, 5 | |||
5+ | Pilier - variante
| 100m, 5 | |||
5b | La Sans Nom
1
5b
2
4c
3
5b
| 90m, 3 | |||
5a | ★★ Pilier de la Sans Nom
1
5a
2
4b
3
3a
4
3c
| 90m, 4 | |||
En Vau Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille Petit Aiguille South Face | |||||
5a | ★ La Diagonale
| 27m | |||
5c | Directe de Gauche
| 27m | |||
6a | ★ Directe de Droite
| 27m | |||
4c | Face a Mer
| 27m | |||
En Vau Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille Petit Aiguille North and West Faces | |||||
5c | ★ Le tord boyau
| 28m | |||
5c | ★★ La Face Nord-Ouest
| 26m | |||
6a | La B.B.
| 25m | |||
5b | ★ La Directe
| ||||
5b | ★★ La Ratopenado
| ||||
En Vau Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille Secteur Saphir | |||||
5a | ★★ La Saphir
1
5a
2
3a
3
4b
4
4c
5
3b
One of the most classic routes in d'en Vau. Due to its age and popularity, the polish of this route is as extraordinary as the views you get on it. Listed as 4c or 5a in some guidebooks, it is probably closer to 5c from a modern point of view, taking into account the vanishing foot holds. 5 pitches, but commonly done in 4: First steep pitch (4c/5a), second "ridge walk" pitch around 2 (in the middle of ridge there is another anchor), linking third and fourth pitch up to half of the headwall (5a and then ~5c, 5a originally), and final pitch (4c, 3+ originally). On the headwall, there are two variations right of the original line, both graded at 5c. Descent: Follow the cairns until you find the hiking paths up on the plateau. You're one the wrong trail if the rock is not polished under your feet. From the plateau, go down again to the beach or walk out. FA: Joseph Bouisson, Paul Guérin, Maurice Samuel & Félix Soleil, 1939 | 120m, 5 | |||
5c | La Sortie des Artistes
1
5a
2
5c
| 2 | |||
5c+ | Directe de la Pierre Fine
1
5c+
2
5c
| 2 | |||
En Vau Rive Gauche Dalle du Chat | |||||
6b | ???
| 13m | |||
7a | Le Train Sauvage
| 13m | |||
6b | Le Gynecologue
| ||||
6b | Passagers du Vent
| ||||
6b+ | Troisième Sexe
| ||||
5c | ★★★ Sale Temps pour les Nains
| ||||
En Vau Rive Gauche Dalle de la Conversation | |||||
6a+ | La Pezbouby
1
6a+
2
6a
| 60m, 2 | |||
6a | ★★ La Conversation
| 20m | |||
6b+ | ★ La constipation
1
6b+
2
6b
| 35m, 2 | |||
7a | Yoghourt Acide
| 20m | |||
6c | Over Dance
| 30m | |||
6b | Nenesse le Bienheureux
| 30m | |||
6b | Mon ongle d'amerique
| 20m | |||
En Vau Rive Gauche Doigt de Dieu | |||||
6b | Doigt de Dieu Integral
1
6b
2
4c
3
3b
4
3b
5
6a
| 90m, 5 | |||
6b | ★★ Doigt de Dieu Integral, variante
1
6b
2
4c
3
3b
4
3b
5
6b
same start as doigt de dieu, last pitch slightly on the left for the variante. | 90m, 5 | |||
7a+ | La Dany Revest
| ||||
6c | Mort pour la Transe
| ||||
7b | Week-end à Rome
1
7b
2
6c
| 2 | |||
En Vau Rive Gauche Piolet | |||||
7b | Indiana Steroid
| 35m | |||
7b+ | Moira
| 35m | |||
En Vau Rive Droite Le Gabian | |||||
6c+ | C'est du Vrai Café
| 35m | |||
7b | C'est de la Vrai Pastèque
| 35m | |||
En Vau Rive Droite Americains | |||||
5c | Super Calanque
1
5b
2
4b
3
4c
4
5c
| 120m, 4 | |||
8a | Hyper Calanque
| ||||
6a+ | ★ Le Calendal
1
6a
2
6a+
3
5c
4
6a
| 130m, 4 | |||
5b | La Calanque
1
4b
2
4b
3
4c
4
5b
| 100m, 4 | |||
6a+ | Directe de la Calanque
1
4a
2
6a+
3
4c
| 100m, 3 | |||
6c+ | Le Vibro Tasseur
1
6c
2
6c+
3
4b
| 90m, 3 | |||
7b | Accroches Toi la Vie
1
6b
2
7b
3
6b
4
6b
| 100m, 4 | |||
6c | La Gamma
1
6a
2
6a+
3
6c
4
5b
5
6b
| 100m, 5 | |||
6b | La Participation
1
6b
2
6b
3
6a
4
4b
| 110m, 4 | |||
6b | Coeur Grenadine
1
5b
2
6b
| 2 | |||
7a+ | Les Rues Sont Pleines de Promesses
| ||||
7a+ | Le Bateau Ivre
1
7a+
2
6b+
3
7a
| 60m, 3 | |||
6b+ | ★ Eperon des Americains
1
5c
2
6b
3
5c
4
6b
5
6b+
| 130m, 5 | |||
6a | ★ La Revolution
1
5c
2
6a
3
6a
4
5b
| 100m, 4 | |||
6a | Les Larmes au Soleil
| ||||
En Vau Rive Droite Passerelle | |||||
6c | Pilier Droit du Couloir du Milieu
1
6a
2
6c
3
6b+
| 100m, 3 | |||
6a | ★★ La Tostine
1
6a
2
5b
3
4b
| 70m, 3 | |||
6b | Sortie Guillot
| ||||
6b+ | Sortie G.G.M.
| ||||
6b | ★★ Sortie Vidailhet
| ||||
6c | La Source Noire
| ||||
6a | Directe du Nettoyage a Sec
| ||||
6a+ | ★★ Pilier Gauche de la Passerelle
1
4c
2
5c
3
6a
4
6a+
| 100m, 4 | |||
4c | ★ La Passerelle
1
4c
2
4b
3
4c
4
4c
| 100m, 4 | |||
6b+ | Speciale Boucherie
| ||||
6a+ | Speciale Passerelle
| ||||
6a | ★★ Pilier Droit de la Passerelle
1
5b
2
5c
3
5a
4
6a
| 100m, 4 | |||
6c+ | Super-Doume
1
6b
2
6c+
3
5c
4
4b
| 80m, 4 | |||
6c | La Mimi
| ||||
En Vau Rive Droite Conan | |||||
6b | ★★ La Conan
| 12m | |||
5c+ | ★ La Pancarte
| 12m | |||
7b | Super Deux Veuves
| ||||
7a+ | La Plou Belle
| ||||
6b+ | Le Phallus
| 20m | |||
En Vau Rive Droite Sans Souci | |||||
5c | Les Sans Souci Integral
1
5c
2
5b
3
5a
4
5b
| 100m, 4 | |||
6a+ | Arete Save Integrale
1
5c
2
6a+
3
5c
4
2b
5
4b
6
2b
| 120m, 6 | |||
En Vau Moitie Moitie | |||||
5b | ★ La Moitié-Moitié
| 100m, 4, 7 | |||
Val Vierge | |||||
6a+ | Le bonheur est dans le cap
| 3 | |||
6b | Docteur gecko
| 3 | |||
6c | Arète du diable integrale
| 6 | |||
6c | Fabulous troubadours
| 5 | |||
6b | Requiem
| 5 | |||
6b | L'oeil de Sauron
| 4 | |||
7a+ | Tradition commeres
| 4 | |||
6c+ | Elle est pas belle la vie
| 5 | |||
6c+ | Evidence
| 2 | |||
7a+ | L'enfant des étoiles
| 5 | |||
6c+ | Porque te vas?
| 4 | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Au dela de la verticale
| 6 |