Ascensions dans Schlossbergwände

Small holds in a vertical section lead to an overhang with two big pockets and a sequence of smaller holds to a good break, and a few more pockets to the anchor (not all of them are good, so it took me a while to find the right ones). The first bolt could sit a bit higher and to the left, but otherwise perfect bolting.

Nice chimney start, then an easy slab gets you to the right arête. From there on it's a powerful mix of wall and arête climbing with a layback section towards the end. A long, exciting, beautiful journey.

Harder than "Schläger" around the corner. Quite different rock structures, too, in reddish rock. Hard to read in the upper part.

Funky sequences after the second bolt and after the last. The mini dihedral after spanning out over the bulge is hard to negotiate, took me a while to decipher it. In the upper section, long moves get you out left to the jugs. The bolts sit in the right places.

Splendid slab and wall climbing with a distinct crux in the middle. Exciting line! #warmup

The last meters are overgrown, unfortunately, but the route doesn't have an anchor anyway, so I had to downclimb from the rusty peg a bit and jump into the third bolt. A good line, though, not always just straight up.

Quite an adventure, but better protected than it seems. Placing a friend in the crack to the first bolt was good though.

#lastrouteoftheday to get the draws down.

2nd go

Fell in the crux because an undercling broke off. Surprise flight! Was too exhausted to climb through it anyway, but it's really great. I should do it again.

Ausstieg heute leider nass.