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Voies sportive dans Grande Grotta

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Affichant les 24 voies total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
6b Massalia
1 6b 25m
2 5c 25m
3 5c 25m
4 5c 25m

Équip.: Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001

Sportive 100m, 4
8b+ Zenith

FFA: Alex Honnold, 2011

Équip.: Simon Montmory, 2011

Sportive 40m
7c Aegialis

An often photographed route because of its position on the edge of the Grande Grotta. Pumpy climbing with few rests.

Équip.: George Kopalides & Yiannis Torelli, 1998

Sportive 30m, 15
8a+ Kopalization

Extension to 'Aegialis'.

Équip.: George Kopalides & Christos Daniil, 2007

Sportive 55m
8b+ Kopalization Extra

Another 10m extension to 'Aegialis' and 'Kopalization'.

Équip.: George Kopalides, 2014

Sportive 65m
7c+ Zawinul Syndicate

Équip.: Marco Troussier, 2002

Sportive 30m
7a+ Aphrodite

Short, with a bouldery sequence on pinches.

Équip.: Fritz Amann & Hermann Erber, 2001

Sportive 12m
7a DNA

The island's most popular, steep tufa climb. A good introduction to the style. In peak season, come early for a quick onsight or join the crowd until the sun hits.

Équip.: Thomas Michaelides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2001

Entr.: 2016

Sportive 20m
8a+ DNA Ext

Équip.: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Antonin Cherbonnier, 2004

Entr.: 2014

Sportive 50m
7b+ Ivi Ole

Direct variation of Ivi. Clip first three bolts of Ivi, then straight up (rather than right) past a hard setup and a dyno to the hueco.

Équip.: George Kopalides, 2014

Sportive 20m, 9
7a+ Ivi

A step upwards from DNA but at least as good! One reachy move makes it harder for the short.

Équip.: 2002

Sportive 20m
7c Priapos

A super steep and very long, typical Kalymnos-style climb. Big holds, good rests but also some technical and bouldery parts. [70m rope ok if tied off.]

Some argue it's hard to grade because a successful ascent can take anywhere from 10 to 60+ minutes. Grade consensus is in the 7b+ to 7c range.

The route is named after the greek god of fertility. Maybe due to the long skinny stalactite in the middle of the climb.

Video: Sasha DiGiulian climbing Priapos

Équip.: Yann Ghesquiers & Philippe Pellet, 2001

Sportive 40m, 23
8a Super Priapos

Extension to 'Priapos'.

Équip.: Yann Ghesquiers & Philippe Pellet, 2001

Sportive 55m, 25
8a Fun de Chichunne

Going through the most horizontal part of Grande Grotta's roof. Two hard, bouldery sections.

Équip.: Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001

Sportive 40m, 28
6a Happy Girlfriend

Slab and juggy tufas.

Équip.: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2008

Sportive 15m
5a Elefantenhimmel Part 1

Stops at the intermediate anchor after the slab.

Équip.: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 2001

Sportive 15m
7a Elefantenhimmel

Infamous hard anchor-clip and possible rope drag problems. Otherwise great tufa climbing at around 6b+.

Équip.: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 2001

Sportive 30m
8a Punto Caramelo

Shares the start with Trela and Tufantastic, then braches off left into the steep overhang.

Équip.: Christos Daniil & Aristotelis Mavromatis, 2007

Sportive 30m
7b+ Tufantastic

An endurance focused tufa route with a more adventurous feeling. A lot less popular than other routes here. Shares the start with the popular Trela and Punto Caramelo, then follows the middle line of bolts.

[70m rope ok if tied off.]

Équip.: 2007

Sportive 40m
7a Trela

Being less steep than the 7's to the left, Trela still requires a lot of endurance or better, some creative kneebars. Take the rightmost line of the shared start with Punto Caramelo and Tufantastic.

[Rope beta: A 70m rope is more than enough for leading and lowering (even though the guidebook says 40m). BUT be aware that stripping QDs might need more rope depending on technique.]

Équip.: Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001

Sportive 40m
6b Monahiki Elia

Basically a Kalymnos unicorn: Steady, tufas-only, mid grade climbing. Very popular.

Équip.: Antonis Skevofylakas & Konstantinos Lampadarios, 2002

Sportive 25m, 9
6c Taz

Équip.: Antonis Skevofylakas & Konstantinos Lampadarios, 2002

Sportive 27m
7a+ Taj Mahal

Extension to 'Taz'.

Équip.: George Kopalides

Sportive 40m
7a KalyPige

Équip.: Michel Piola, 2004

Sportive 35m, 17

Affichant les 24 voies total.

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