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Uddanapalli Betta, Hosur (TN) Tous Style inconnu 6 voies en site

  • Contexte de la cotation : US
6
YDS
5.85.95.10a5.10c

Résumé

Uddanapalli Betta, Technically in Tamil Nadu but close enough to Bangalore and Developed by Bangalore Climbing Initiatives.

Description

Uddanapalli Betta is 60 odd km from the center of the city to the south Hosur. The climbs are best climbed early am or towards the evening. This area was first developed in Jun-Jul 2016 by Bangalore Climbing Initiatives, and currently has six routes and seven pitches, ranging from 5.8 through 5.10d.

Limit. de l'accès

Climbers have camped out here in 2019 and got into trouble with the local police. Getting Permission through a local or better still from the Police will help.

The hillock is not on private property, but the access is via private farms. The locals and local police issues on occasion. Negotiate your way out amicably.

Watch out for Snakes.

Approche

Head towards Hosur and take the right turn under the second flyover that comes up in Hosur, towards Rayakottai road. As you approach Uddanapalli from Hosur, the crag’s unimpressive north-east profile comes up on your right.

Drive into the village of Uddanapalli and take a right turn to approach the crag from its south-west side. After the turn off, drive for less than a kilometer until you see a school to your right. Park across the road and hike towards the crag.

If you see a power station to your right, you have gone too far. The hike takes you 15-20 minutes to the base of the climbs.

Où dormir

Honey Comb Nest (+91 9844010354) is a nice village style farm stay walking distance to the crag but bookings will have to be made in advance.

Tip - If you stay at Honey Comb Nest, the owners (Alex Uncle and Mini Aunty) have a very good relationship with the locals.

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Voies

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Cotation Voie
1
5.10c Takelage ( Prounounced as 'Thaa-Ka-Laahshz') Non-défini 25m, 8

First 20 feet includes a 5.10b/c technical crux. The first overhanging bulge which comes up at the 20 odd feet mark is actually more benign than it looks. The next 20 odd feet reminds of you famous Bangalore slab climbing.

The next overhanging bulge is 5.11aish if you are under 5'10", which requires you to get reach a crimp over the bulge to pull yourself up. But an alternate line for the shorter folks is to go further right of the bolt and traversing back to the main line over the bolt.

The official grade is considering that it is possible to escape the direct crux move by traversing to the right.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri, Susanne Wangert, Satish Venkatchaliah & Suma Rao. FFA: Sohan Pavuluri.

2
5.10c Smoking Snakes Non-défini 2
1 5.10c
2 5.7

P1: 5.10c. 25 meters, 8 + 2 bolts.

The takeoff is the crux. If the start feels harder than the 5.10C, that is probably because you may have not got the beta. Not a straightforward move. The grade eases up progressively after the takeoff, in increments of a grade.

P2: 5.7. 16 meters. 3 + 0 bolts.

Traverse right on the ledge towards the chimney, after pitch one. Pitch two ends on a massive ledge. Anchor using the boulders on the ledge and bring up the second. Walk towards the right to exit, or continue route number three (Mastaan), which is to the left side of the ledge.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri & Suma Rao. FFA: Susanne Wangert & Benjamin Ochner.

3
5.10d Mastaan Non-défini 16m, 5

To get to this climb, either Smoking Snakes, or hike up to the top. The first 15 feet are the crux of the entire route, with some beautiful face moves. 3rd to 4th bolt is runout on extremely easy terrain.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri, Sebrand Warren, Bejamin Ochner, & Vinay K. FFA: Benjamin Ochner

4
5.8 Monu's Backyard Non-défini 13m, 3

Routes Monu's Backyard, Easy Peasy, & JugAah'D are what you come across as you hike towards the crag from the school. These are perfect warmups before the stiffer 5.10 routes further along the crag and can be climbed very quickly. As of mid-2018, the top anchors were stolen.

Monu’s Backyard starts along a crack, requiring a half mantle to get onto the slab. The top anchors are shared with Route Easy Peasy.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri, Alok Tater, Satish Venkatchaliah, Srivats, Vipin Kumar, Satnam Singh & Abhijit Sriramreddy. FFA, Satnam Singh

5
5.8 Easy Peasy Non-défini 13m, 3

Easy face/slab climb with good features.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri, Alok Tater, Satish Venkatchaliah, Srivats, Vipin Kumar, Satnam Singh & Abhijit Sriramreddy. FFA, Sohan Pavuluri

6
5.9 JugAah'D Non-défini 15m, 4

Starts on a boulder leaning on the main face, and with a Jug. Slab move at the second bolt is the crux, and thereafter easy climb to the anchors.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri, Alok Tater, Satish Venkatchaliah, Srivats, Vipin Kumar, Satnam Singh & Abhijit Sriramreddy. FFA, Abhijit Sriramreddy

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Jeu 18 Mai
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