Voies dans Inde pour la cotation selectionnée

Arete L of Scoop. SDS apparently goes at 6C

Stand. R side of back face. Start at LH incut rail + RH small low side pull for best value

Short undercut face into ramped arete, L of The Long Reach.

SDS. On small boulder beside main boulder

Overhanging arete on R end of scoop

SDS low left. Veer R and onto easier holds to top. Also best route for descent.

Very easy. Good for warm up.

Climbs left side arete with crimps on face

Climbs right side arete with crimps on face

Left hand line on boulder. Good and easy problem for beginners.

Middle line on boulder. Good and easy problem for beginners.

Right hand line on boulder. Good and easy problem for beginners.

Use a pad and a spotter.

Right of 22b, up on edges

Between Egg Boulder + the warm-up block. Sit start LH side pull, RH on peg hole

Uncomfortable low start

B1 P1. Easy boulder problem.

Start with good hand hold.

Easy arete for beginners.

Finger jamming problem

Easy but high problem traversing left up obvious crack. Dangerous.

Sit start

Traverse from left to right

Very easy, all big holds. Good problem for beginners.

Starts from horizontal crack, right hand most line.

Dangerous.

Featured arete on backside of boulder

LH line up the arete on boulder facing the back of the main “Classic Arete” boulder.

RH line on boulder opposite backside of main boulder

2 glue in bolts anchor with one bucket.

Route goes along the line of the bolts, not too much right left else the grade differs.

Exciting and scary Opposite wall to the roquest wall, this line traverses left and up the arete. Exposure

Balance route, on the grey rock. On the right of the other 6a+, opposite side of the Fridge route. The first bolt is glue in bolt. Anchor: 2 glue in bolts with one bucket

Look forward to the fingery sequence between the bolts #3 and #4, followed by an enjoyable climb to the top.

First bolt is glue in type. Hanger added on the 5th bolt on 25th July 2021 which was missing earlier. Anchor: 2 glue in bolts with one bucket. There are 2 variations of the route, one is through the chimney which is 5a and other variation is the face climb (6a+) starting with a boulder problem and using the same bolts.

Nice route. The hanger on the second bolt is missing. Added a maillon on 13th March 2021 for one of the anchor bolts. Now both anchor bolts have maillons for rappelling /abseiling .

The hangers on first 3 bolts is missing. Added a maillon on 13th March 2021 for one of the anchor bolts. Now both anchor bolts have maillons for rappelling /abseiling .

Top anchor has one Petzl chemical anchor and one hanger with mylon.

Has 2 anchor bolts

Anchor has two hanger bolts, each with one mylon.

Crack climb which is bolted. Starts with hand jams and then opens up with off width at the upper crux. If done on gear needs wide gear.

A nice flowy climb interrupted by a few satisfying power moves in the middle.

A sustained climb with a fingery sequence between the 4th and 5th bolt. Stay left! Take a rest before tackling the small roof to the top.

A heaven for lovers of crimps and balance movements

A demanding slabby start with technical moves followed by crimpy sometimes juggy vertical face to the top.

No anchor bolts. Mixed trad route

The part of the chimney on the west face. Relatively easy grade, and yet an exhaustive movement, if not used to the squeeze-chimney climbing techniques.

The squeeze-chimney crux is after 15-odd feet, the squeeze through the narrowest section. A dozen feet of this, and then the face to the right, and then back to the chimney to top out.

Route by Amrit A. & Sohan, & FA, Sohan, Nov 4th, 2022.

Immediately left of Jumme Ki Raat. Face climbing.

Anchor: The trees above. Long anchoring ropes needed to get the master point overtheedge. 30-or40-footpiecesofcordage

To access top of this route, either climb the routes to the right, or hike around from the left.

Anchor: The tree is a little more than a juvenile at this time. Possible also to use the crack to the left around the boulder as one more leg of the anchor.

Crack

This impressive high boulder with a crack that starts in the middle of the boulder and then radiates out in multiple directions, with a ficus tree growing out of the crack to the right.

To access this boulder, the quickest way is by the way of driving up to the temple, from the east, and hiking over the plateau and down through the Tank Plateau. 15-minute hike from the temple parking.

Alternatively, for some warm-up, access through the Middle Earth plateau after scrambling up the slabs, through the valley between the Flyby boulder and the Jumme Ki Raat chimney, turn left, and up the slope from directly past the Flyby boulder. This high boulder is located about 50 meters east of the afore mentioned boulder, up the slope. From Stalin’s farm, 20- or 25-minute access.

The take-off is the crux. Thereafter, the grade eases up. •Betavi •Other lines: Aside from the main line that goes directly up, there are four other possibilities. To the right, after the tree, one traverse along the lower crack, or climb past it and along the diagonal crack. Third line; to the left, after the tree, at the horizontal crack, traverse left. The fourth line is more interesting potential. Left of the crack, from below the ledge, through a traversing crack, over the slab, and back into the seam to connect to the horizontal crack. Piton to protect the seam, possibly.

Facing: West

Rack: Fingers to hands.

Anchors: Crack that takes fist sized pieces.

Natural Anchor: If you can access the top through the (currently overgrown) gulley from the south, tree and some boulders.

Exit: After topping out, walk across to the tree and rappel off it. The gully to the right after the top out, is over-grown.

FKA: Shyam Krishnan, Suma Rao. 1990s. The current name provided by Shyam in Oct 2021.

Line rediscovered and documented on June 16th, 2021 by Sohan, Shyam Krishnakumar and Kiran Kallur. More than a rediscovery, correctly the route was stumbled upon, climbed, and then reconciled subsequently as having been climbed in the 1990s based on the old images. The sense of history!

Since the rediscovery, the loose block of rock inside the crack was dislodged.

Crack

Similar start as that of the Shyam’s Vajra Line, and then traversing right, under the tree, through a series of diagonal downward facing cracks, radiating right.

Two optional finishes here. Either left through the exposed slab, or right to the ledge.

To the right onto the ledge, or straight up along the slab, or left no great options for top anchor. The ledge to the right has a small gash that can accommodate a tricam and a small finger-sized cam. Alternatively, exposed moves on the slab to the left from the last piece of pro in a shallow crack formed by a feature overlapping the face, which gets you to the top-out crack of the Shyam’s line.

Rack: Same as needed for the Vajra Line

Route courtesy and FKA: Sohan and Nikhil Fernandes, Sep 22, 2021

Located 20 meters to the north-east of Flyby boulder

Hand-stacks and fist-stack jams!

Betaviii

Exit: Plan to take a 10-15 feet cordage to leave behind as TAT, if the old TAT is degraded. No walk off; abseil or downclimb. A 10 mm rope with a rappel ring was left behind in April 2021, for the exit.

Facing: South

Rack: Off-width Gear, BD cams, #4 through #6. A small nut can go in the crack to the left after about 10 feet.

Anchor: Cracks and boulders at the top. Large hexes can be used to protect through the gaps at the base of the boulders.

FKA: Sohan, belayed by Amrit, April 2021

The far left-side bolted line, that eventually connects to the crack after the ledge, but deviates and follows the line to the left of it is a delightful line.

Start in the stem-chimney to the left or the north, and go around the corner to the face, and to the ledge, and eventually the bolts to the top. Grade kicks up a notch after the ledge. The crux is leaving the comfort of the ledge and committing to the seemingly run-out bolts.

Route credit: Sohan & Amrit A. FA: Sohan (LR Soloed). September 25th, 2022.

Two versions. One using the chimney, and the other avoids the chimney. If using the chimney, the top-out is the crux (5.10a). If using only the face, the crux is between the first and the second bolt, about 5.10c/d moves.

If not topping-out, the grade is 5.8.

Delightful line; requires all the respect it deserves, else will spit you out.

Route by Amrit A. & Sohan. Sep 25th, 2022. FA, Sohan. Sep 28th, 2022.

The west facing side of the Black Lightening boulder. Mildly overhanging with solid holds. The route starts from atop a boulder, radiating right for the first dozen feet, and then directly below the anchor.

The line is quite unusual for Yedumadu, in that it is overhanging, and has jugs for holds. Sharp as they maybe, still jugs. Second bolt to the anchor station has potential for decking the boulder below, if the belay is not efficient.

Route credit, Charan H & Sohan. November 30th, 2022.

Offwidth crack

The crack starts to the right on the south facing wall, as a hand crack, traverses left and opens up into the crux off-width. Past the offwidth, further short traverse to the left as hand crack and then along a flake and then the heady but easy top- out.

Rack: Upto #4, or #5 (optional).

Anchor: Crack (Finger and hand cracks)

Natural Anchor: Boulder and tree. Long anchor.

FKA, Sohan with support from Amrit Appaden and Karthik Maddineni, Feb 2021

The traverse from right to left, along the crack, and top out through the Decepticon line. Creative placements in the crack for the traverse. Vertical crack is well protected.

The crux is the traverse section to connect to the vertical crack.

Rack: Hand-sized pieces and below.

Top Anchor: Since a traverse, a top-anchor that would connect the entire traverse might be complex. However, a top anchor from atop the boulder could be setup using small pieces, or just pink-point as your project the traverse, with pre-placed gear in the crack.

FKA: Aalok Bharadwaj pink-pointed on, Dec 11,2021.

The boulder is about 50-60 feet to the left of Red Sea boulder as you face east.

Anchor for top rope using small to intermediate pieces of gear

Top Rope

Start along the arete, and through the face to the tree

Anchor: Tree and cracks

Face climbing to the right of the Red Sea crack Protection - Slung horn and fist sized pieces

Anchor; Chossy horizontal crack that takes fist sized pieces and below.

Off-Width

Further south of Red Sea, on the same terrace, after 50 meters, a bit hidden from direct view, facing south.

The crux is just after the take off. A fist jam protects the transition to the off- width sized crack.

Thereafter, well protected easy climbing.

Facing: South

Rack: #4 cam and below. Doubles of #4 cam would help.

Anchor: Cracks and boulders

Natural Anchor: Two boulders

Route starts left of the tree with an undercut at the base.

Take-off crux, and then plenty of route reading along the way.

Two variations. Going right to the juggy pocket is about 5.10aish (Uli or the chisel). Going straight up over the crimps and over the steeper slab is a grade or two stiffer (Sutti or the hammer).

One more minor crux half-way up. The rock quality here reminds of Varlakonda.

FA: Akhil Menon, August 7th, 2022. Route by Shyam Krishnakumar, Vinay Kumar, & Sohan

Seam, finger- & hand-sized crack.

Hike north of Indudala Chimney for about 50 meters to locate this boulder, with at least two known free climbing lines, and potential for a few more. Also, one could find shade during the afternoon, just below the route.

Creative placements with especially small gear in the first half before the piton, and then it still doesn’t let up. Heady line for lead.

Originally lead on ball-nuts and the slings around the chicken heads (one of which broke off subsequently), the line now has a piton after about 15-18 feet (at the same level as where the first of the original chicken head used to be).

Facing: West

Rack: Small to intermediate sized gear. #2 & #3 sized ballnuts or equivalent sized nuts and litte more head and control to make the passive placements stick.

Anchor: A strong single point anchor could be created with double cordage, or a couple of nuts or cams could be added.

Natural Anchor: Boulders

FKA: TT Niranjan and Shyam Krishnakumar, 2019.

Hand to Off-Hands crack.

The hand crack gradually widens to an Off-Hand size (wider than fist but narrower than the Off-width size).

Facing: North/West

Other lines: Couple of top ropeable lines to the right, and outside of the crack, one using the crack as the arete, and the other, going far right, and along the corner arete. To the east, where one could exit from the tree, a soloable line through the center (the base doesn’t seem to accommodate crashpads), or an exposed scramble from the left of the tree.

Rack: To protect the line, #3 & #4. Or Hexes. Perfect crack for the hexes. The Off-hands size of the crack at the crux is too big for a #3 and too small for the #4. Metolius #9 fits better. Or use a #3 and bump it up before running out the crux.

Anchor: Hand sized cams to #3 cam (doubles of #3 or Hexes).

Natural Anchor: Difficult, but possible.

Exit: Rappel off of a tree to the east. (The exit from the east is boulderable line, but mildly exposed, can also be scrambled from the left of the tree)

FKA: Sohan & Amrit, nd July 2 , 2021

Finger crack and crimps

Bouldery start to the finger crack, and aesthetic movement define this line.

Grade appropriate sustained climbing along the crack and with the crimps to the right.

The placements are as exciting as the climb itself. A couple small to intermediate (preferably offset) nuts in the crack (DMM Offsets number #7 & #9).

Facing: south

Rack: Small to hand sized pieces.

Anchor: best in the crack at the point where it ends at the top out. Else, one #4 inside the cave, around the boulder to the right, and a piece for directional to the left.

Natural anchor: None. Hip belay stance possible.

Route credit & FKA: Sohan, July 17th, 2021 with support from Amrit Appaden and Kiran Kallur.

If walking along the trail, the line may not be visible, as it is facing west.

Climbing grade for what is essentially a bouldering line but could be climbed as trad by protecting with an intermediate nut, and a BD cam #2.

Rack: A set of nuts, and optionally a #2 BD cam

Anchor: None. Hip belay or counter-balance belay.

Route credit: Sohan and Kiran Kallur, July 11th, 2021

The most prominent chimney on the west facing wall at the entrance to MS Betta via the Yedumadu village.

No protection for the first 20 feet of easy climbing. The squeeze chimney turns to off-width inside for about six odd feet, and can be protected by a #4, #5, and #6 sized BD cams, in that order.

The first two pieces deep inside. Before the crux, protect with #6 cam, and then another eight feet of unprotected climb to the top out.

If top-roping the line, the flavor of the route changes completely. Rack: #4, #5, #6 sized cams, and fist and hand sized cams for the top anchor.

Anchor: Cracks above that take hand and fist sized cams. Natural anchor: A chocked boulder in the chimney could be used.

FFA: Sohan. Onsighted with support from Narayan P. & Murali M. August 2017

Route by Sunny, FA Tanvi Badami

Route by Sohan and Zaman. FA Tanvi Badami

Immediate left of the five top rope routes that start below the cave. Two-part climb; starts on the slab (3 bolts) which is no harder than 5.10a, then from the ledge, proceeds on the inside face, right of the corner crack (3 bolts).

Brilliant small ledges with interesting movement on the second half.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri, Satish Venkatachaliah, & Amit Manikoth. FFA, Sohan. Added Nov 2015.

Route credit: Gethna/Keerthi Pais, Pranesh Manchaiah & Team

Converted to lead by Satish Venkatachaliah

Starts on the boulder wedged at the base.There are 3 lead bolts + 2 anchor station bolts.

The crux is between bolt 2 and 3. An interesting route that requires a short technical traverse using a right oriented hold.

Top rope route by Pranesh Manchiah & Keerthi Pais, bolted for lead by Sohan Pavuluri & Satish Venkatachaliah. FFA, Chethan BM

** There is an Owl nest, in the cave behind the grass patch you see on the ledge. Avoid climbs Rum and Rasam & Beku Beku, during Owl’s nesting season.

The first bolt is a bit of a runout. After you scramble about 15-20 meters to the ledge that forms the start of this climb, the first bolt is another five odd meters higher up in the corner. A fall before you clip the bolt in the corner, will certainly cause much damage. Hence the rating of R/X.

The moves in this corner climb, that transitions to a slab are quite interesting, and would have been more fun, if not for the flakiness of the holds. Despite the rating of 5.10b, I think the moves here are no harder than 5.9, but the ‘choss’ factor drive up the grade, I suppose. I found the route to be simpler than High on Grass**

After six bolts, the climb eases up, and then after the eighth bolt, you won’t see any bolts further.

There are two options here. One, you either continue climbing and angle left to join the second pitch of ‘Rum and Rasam’ and finish the route in one entire rope length, with an additional bolt protecting the rest of the 5.5 rated pitch, or, two, do the mildly exposed sharp left traverse from the eighth bolt to the P1 anchor station of ‘Rum and Rasam’ to break this up into two pitch climb.

Route credit, Pranesh Manchaiah.

Named for the flake at the crux that seems as if it may come off at some point (not to worry, it has withstood the test of time and climbers for over a decade).

This two-cruces problem with the second and the main crux requiring one to traverse right from the flake to a thin ledge.

Route Credit, Balaji SR.

An old classic line that used to have two bolts leading up to the crack, and the climb used to follow the crack.

In early 2000s, Gerhard Schaar in consultation with couple of local climbers but not the wider community had bolted the route slightly to its right and changed the nature of the original line. This had caused some anguish in the local community, but the decision at this point is to leave the bolts alone.

Follow the arête, right of the boulder at the base, and follow the crack. The crux is right before the roof crack, and there after the route eases up considerably.

The variation uses the crack to protect route, after the third bolt. The line also changes a bit, as you stick to the crack, instead of getting on the slab. Option to use the penultimate bolt to protect the open slab.

Starts under a horizontal crack and move left to clip the first bolt. The climb runs along the edge of a fold in the hill. So, while the route is a slab, the consequences of a fall, will put you squarely over the edge.

One of those routes, engineered to be more interesting than it would have been if the bolts had been shifted a few feet to the right.

Route by Narayan Pai & Sohan Pavuluri, FFA: Sohan Pavuluri

Bolted and incomplete route.

A Dinesh Kaigonhalli bolted route.

Hand bolted two-pitch route.

Thamma

First Dini route. Old bolts. Hand bolted.

Route by Dini (Dec 6, 1990). FFA: Kiran & Nols Ravi

Opened by Lopsang Thisring, Kamalesh & other members of 'The Climbers' in 1987 during IMF All India Camp.

P1: 5.10B. 20 meters, 6 + 2 bolts.

The first pitch starts with a traverse, left to right, and then heads up straight. Sustained 5.10b and can be a ‘reachy’ problem for folks under 5’.8”. Suggested to use a 24” alpine draws on the second and third bolt to reduce the rope drag due to the traverse.

P2: 5.7. 35 meters. 6 + 2 bolts.

The second pitch eases up considerably.

P3. 5.5. 35 meters. 6+2 bolts. With a 70-meter rope, it is possible to connect both the pitches, and with a strong climber, you could also skip some bolts.

Route credit, Dini and team. Early 2014.

FFA, Sohan. Route by Sohan & Satish. Jan 2016

7 bolts/crack + 2. Crack takes #1 & #2 cams.

About 30-40 meters to the right of Broomberg.

The crux is just after the 7th bolt. Stay right of the bolts.

Route credit: Dini, Prani & Seema. 2017.

Good moves all through.

Crux 1 : from the 3rd to the 4th bolts, slab move.

Crux 2 : sustained at the headwall from the 8th to the 13th bolt. Pinch & crimp, good movement and a mantle will see you through. Each bolt is a crescendo of series of cruces.

Route credit: Sohan (TR soloed & rap-bolted subsequently) in Jan 2019

FFA: Neil Warrington

As you hike up to the sport routes from the north, a large boulder at the base of the hike with an off-width crack facing north.

Starts with fists and quickly turns into an off-width. At the crux takes series of #4 cams (3/4 of them, and then a couple of #5, and then a #6.

An aided ascent in July 2019. No free ascents as yet.

Old bolts with a fence at the base. Hence currently not safe to climb

Right of the crack. Follow the patina sized ledges all the way to the top.

The soft squishy ‘soil’ on the ledges is monkey shit. You are welcome.

Route credit: Sohan Pavuluri & Gadappa. FFA: Siddhartha Chaudhuri

Start on a set of pockets, right to left to clip the first bolt. After the first two odd bolts, the rest of the climb is on thin flakes and makes for an excellent ‘balance’ face climb on thin holds.

Bolts added for lead climbing by BCI; Poonacha Medapa & Sohan Pavuluri.

FFA: Poonacha Medapa

The climb’s start is punctuated by a young neem tree growing in front of it.

Be gentle with the tree. It could help soften the grade at some point. If you pre-clip the first bolt and climb from left of the tree along the arete, and continue to the second bolt, the grade is no harder than 5.10a/b, but still an excellent and enjoyable climb, that takes you along crystal block to your right and crimpy slab to your left.

If you reach the bolt along crimpy and slabby finger pockets, grade jumps just for those few moves.

Project above the line is to extend it for a multi-pitch to the roof. Anchor stations in place

Three-pitch line, currently with top bolts.

Will eventually be bolted up for lead.

About 60 odd meters to the right of route Street Hawk.

Sustained, and good route. Well bolted.