Siung Beach, Escalade sportive

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Résumé

There is are more than 50 routes, some with stainless bolts.

Description

The most popular climbing area in Yogyakarta, Siung located right next to the beach. A typical limestone climbing area, climbing at Siung is a different experience.

To get into the area you will pay an entrance fee (less than a dollar) at the ticket booth on the left side a few kilometer before the beach. Parking fee is managed by the locals and paid separately.

Camping in the climbing area is not suggested, but you can camp on the beach. Also, there is a lodging place called "Kedai Panjat Moro Seneng" in the very west of the parking spot where I always stayed. There are a few rooms or just use their plastic mats to sleep on the floor. You can use their bathrooms to shower, and order food from them.

There were several rebolting attempts for some routes in Siung, but corrosion is the worst enemy here. ALWAYS check the bolts before you climb!

Locally known as 'Pantai Siung', this crag is located just above the West end of the beach from which it gets its name. The area consists of 9 blocks labeled A-K. The climbing spots are mostly shaded during the day, although setting up top ropes on some blocks requires sketchy scrambles up hot, sharp volcanic rock. Top rope anchoring spots on these routes also tend to be hard on ropes. The crag can be quite busy on the weekends, especially during the school year.

CAUTION: Although bolted sport routes exist, a significant number of bolts and anchors are heavily corroded and not safe to clip into! The entire crag needs to be rebolted with titanium bolts to better guard against corrosion.

Perfect beach with best climbing view. Video rebolting.

Approche

It takes 3 hours from Yogyakarta city. From Yogyakarta city go towards East Ringroad and go eastward toward Jalan Wonosari. Drive until Wonosari town center/market and turn right onto Jalan Baron, turn left onto Jalan Tepus, turn left onto Jalan Pantai Selatan Jawa. Turn right onto Jalan Pantai Siung after a sharp left turn. Sidenote, there are several traffic signs toward “Pantai Siung” once you pass Wonosari town. Once you pass the ticket gate drive for 15 minutes toward the climbing area.

5 minutes from the parking area.

Fly in to Yogyakarta. Arrange through a trusted party (your hotel's office staff, etc) for a private car or motorbike to transport you to the beach. Travel time ~2-3 hours depending on traffic and road conditions. Renting your own car and traveling there is not advised unless you are accustomed to Indonesian driving habits.

You must pay an admission fee per person to enter Pantai Siung. As of June 2016 this was 5000 RPH (about 50 cents) which covers your parking at the beach.

Once at Siung Beach, from the parking lot walk between the shops and shower areas west of the parking lot to some stairs which lead up to the crag. Ask the locals if you're lost.