Voies dans Südtirol pour la cotation selectionnée

Eine leichtere Freiklettervariante zur klassischen 'Mittelpfeiler-Originalführe' von 1968.

Dubious start leads to stellar, bomber hand/fist jams to a hero finish.

Comfortable bottom anchor at the bottom of the dihedral next to a tree on two bolts. A little chossy in the lower section, it's been carefully cleaned but helmet is recommended.

• medium/large nuts + 3/4 quickdraws.
• 1x #0.4 microcam
• 1x 60cm sling (optional)
• 1x # 1
• 2x # 2 & # 3
• 1x # 4 (at the beginning of the route)

Corner crack with finger tip crack that grows bigger to the top. Double from 0.1 to 0.4 single up to nr3 cam, nuts; long slings for the top belay on old highline anchor. Bolted belay on the bottom of the corner.

Wonderful climbing on good rock.

Gear

1 set of BD Cams up to size 2, possibly hammer and pegs, the 9 used stand pegs were left.

Approach

from the Gardena Pass, 2125 m, down the road to Corvara, park at the first bend in the road. 100m over meadow ascents (N) and follow the path to the Forcelles refuge. Continue on a level below the south wall until you can see the wall on the left, then immediately turn left along a path to the entrance. 1.30 hours

Descent

via marked path to the Crespëina pass, 2528 m (W), then down and up to the Cir pass, 2466m (path no. 2), from here down again to the Clark hut, 2222m, over meadows back to the road bend. 1.30 hours

Topo and description by Christoph Hainz

The route starts beside an iron plate. (Fr: 5a,5c,5b,5a,5c,5a,6a). Kevlar, cams.

Right variant of Joanita.

after the crux of Locker vom Hocker it goes staight up along the edge.