Voies dans Trentino-Alto Adige

Crack climb from finger to fist. Equipment: BD 0.1 to 3; small sizes particularly useful, recommend taking 2-3x BD 0.3 and small nuts

Classical route along northwest edge of the tower, partly challenging route-finding in central part. Descend across plateau towards Pisciadu hut, then easy path.

Dedicatd to Vecio Alpestre Renato Larcher

Gear

10 quickdraws + Totem Cams Black – Blue – Purple – Red

Nice crack, at the top go to the right to reach the chain of La Cros.

Via che percorre lo spigolo sud-est del Campanile Basso. Aperta nel 1937 da Pino Fox e altri forti alpinisti dell'epoca con l'ausilio di 9 chiodi. Si percorrono i primi due tiri della via Normale per poi spostarsi a sinistra sullo spigolo.

For a topo see https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-roccia-preziosa.html

On the East face.

Engelskante is rightly one of the most famous tours of the Sarner Scharte - if you look up from the meadows below the reason for name is clear. The three pitches follow the the arete in the middle are wonderfully exposed and wonderful to climb.

If you wish to enjoy the treats of the Schnapskastl (Schnapps Castle) on the southern summit, please bring more schnapps to leave. The route is wonderfully airy in partly demanding friction climbing.

Thanks to the bolts added by Ulrich Messner in the 1990s, it is now possible to climb directly up the arete, although Holzer and Steinkötter probably followed a thin crack a little to the right of the arete. Originally rated V, it is now agreed to be a solid grade VI.

1. [45 m, III, 1 bolt]: Start a little to the right above the lowest point of the ridge/arete. Follow the ridge and make an anchor at the second bolt.

2. [45 m, III, 1 bolt]: Continue up the ridge to a small ledge. Single bolt anchor.

3. [35 m, II, 1 bolt]: Go to the left of the small wall, and continue to across to the right to the large ledge, across the slippery grass to the base of the supa dupa arete. The anchor is a little to the right of the arete in a small cave (glue-in piton).

4. [45 m, V, VI, 6 bolts, 4 pitons]: Money pitch #1; exposed and morally demanding. Small nuts and cams useful. 3-bolt anchor on the famous bench on the wall.

5. [45 m, VI, IV +, 6 bolts, 3 pitons]: Money pitch #2; Continue up the arete, then airily traverse over the Angel's Wing (the overhang) to the left and continue up to the anchor. 3-bolt anchor is after the old piton anchor.

6. [25 m, IV-, 1 BH, 2 NH]: Continue up the arete to the glue-in piton.

7. [40 m, II]: Traverse over loose blocks to the right to a glue-in bolt at the base of the next wall.

8. [50 m, III, 1 bra]: Easy climbing along the sometimes brittle arete to the next ledge, with a 2 bolt anchor. Alternatively, you can bypass the entire wall to the left (II).

9. [30 m, III]: Continue up the ridge and follow the last short vertical section to the end of the route, 2 bolt anchor. Arrive at the Schnapskastl (Schnapps Castle).

Diagonal crack right of Toewalker. The first section is the crux, follows an easier corner crack in the upper slab. One bolt to use as an anchor the belayer.

Parte a destra del secondo tiro della via l’Anno del ragno, con la quale condivide l’ultimo tiro. Attrezzatura da verificare.

Via storica che sale direttamente la parete nord est del Crozzon di Brenta. Rientro lungo e complesso per la via Normale al Crozzon di Brenta e della Cima Tosa

Crux is an overhanging belly with a bd #3 size crack

The obvious winner in the battle for Best Bolzano Porphyr climb. 6 pitches of utter loveliness that follow a very obvious crack system from bottom to top.

Although it seems on the difficult side (max. 7a), almost all sections of this climb can be aided on cams.

Protection grade: R1

1. From the anchor at the base, the route starts by the tree. Follow the crack upwards, a bit dirty with a few loose rocks.

2. Short but varied crack length, can also be a bit dirty.

3. From the stand on the tape back to the left to the crack. Morally demanding start at a wide crack and then easier intersection up to the stand.

4. This is the key pitch, with a strenuous crack with sections of finger jamming.

5. From the anchor, cross to the left to the dihedral. Follow this up past the tree to the anchor.

6. Follow the crack a few meters vertically upwards and then left over easier terrain to the anchor.

Cima Catanaccio (Rosengartenspitze), 2918m, VI-

Left of Berge in Flammen. http://www.quartogrado.com/volume2_2/relazioni/SASS%20DE%20STRIA_Laubensassa.htm

Variante diretta della via l’Anno del Ragno. Il terzo tiro sale dritto a destra del tettino finale. Presenti due spit.

Primo tiro in comune con via dei Pilastrini ultimo in comune con via dei Camini

Beautiful climb in sound rock, some pitons in the route. It starts in the center of the north face.

https://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/TORRI_SELLA/VIA_MESSNER/schizzovia_messner.html

La via si sviluppa sull'avancorpo della torre

The first 5 pitches are a little bit slippery. 6th pitch is the first more difficult one. Many people escapes from here. Take some bigger friends!

Si seguono le indicazioni per Monticolo e prima dell'Hotel Moser si prende a destra fino ad un piccolo parcheggio. Da qui a piedi seguendo sempre la strada sterrata forestale fino ad incontrare le antenne televisive della Rai, superarle e continuare per sentiero nel bosco tenendo il margine della parete sulla sinistra fino ad incontrare prima i cordoni di calata di Cojote; 100 m dopo, la corda fissa di Anrainerproblem. Discesa: di 40m su corda fissa fino al culmine del pilastro. NB. Controllare che sia in buono stato! Utile un bloccante (es. jumar) per risalirla al ritorno dalla via. 3 calate, di due tiri ciascuna, seguendo l’andamento in diagonale della via (utile rinviare friends e spit in calata).

1. 6c+. Boulder iniziale in fessura (proteggere subito con #1 BD), poi placca tecnica spittata, uscita in traverso a sx. (3 spit)

2. 6b+/c. In verticale, tutto da proteggere, per lo più con friend misure medio piccole.

3. 7b+, placca con tacche e lame verticali, seguire gli spit, uscita in fessura (friends medi, 6 spit)

4. 6b. Bella fessura netta verticale, poi traverso a destra per entrare nel camino fessurato, deviando a sinistra a metà. Attenzione a un grosso blocco instabile!

5. 7a+. Salire in verticale nel camino fino a rinviare il cordone al masso incastrato, poi a dx e di nuovo su a raggiungere un tettino, da superare prima alzandosi leggermente in fessura sul suo lato sinistro, poi traversando con passo aereo in orizzontale su buone prese (uno spit all’uscita del traverso). In fessura fino alla sosta.

6. 7a+. Raggiungere verticalmente l’evidente fessura prima molto stretta (friends micro/ dadi piccoli), poi più larga fino all’#1 BD, uscita su friends grossi.

(da https://www.planetmountain.com/rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=2247&id_tipologia=38)

Deutsch:

http://www.alpenverein.it/de/kletterer-alpinisten/alpin/anrainerproblem-pfattner-wände-mitterberg-unterland-129_7985_151237.html

http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/trentino-suedtirol/keine-angabe/anrainerproblem

Stände teilweise an Schlaghaken, teilweise an Schlingen, Zwischenstand in SL 5 und der letzten möglich, um Seilreibung zu vermeiden. Manche SL zwingend und schwer abzusichern. Ein Satz Keile, Cams 0,3 - 2 und Schlingen empfehlenswert. Wenige Sanduhren und zwei Zwischenhaken zur Orientierung vorhanden.

Abstieg: Nach dem letzten Standplatz dem Grat ca 40m bis zur prominenten Scharte folgen. Dort befindet sich auf der Nordostseite eine Abseilstelle. 40 m abseilen und dem Grasband Richtung Norden/Zahnkofelscharte für ca 300m folgen. Dort befindet sich die letzte Abseilstelle (50m) zur Zahnkofelscharte. Nun die Rinne hinab zum Einstieg

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sasspordoi5/sasspordoi5.htm

https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/de/tour/sass-pordoi-ca.-2.700-m-nw-wand-dr.-luis-vii-ekn-vi-/65020059/

https://www.montialpago.it/page/plaisir.pdf

Starts just right of arete and up grey face

Bolts, rock tunnels and trees Some slings and friends are recommended two little overhangs are rated with VI http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/elda.htm

S3/R1 https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-elda-arco/

From far away, you can spot the start of route by finding: a) the circular black hole in the wall then b) up to the right, another black mark on the wall then c) down to the right, the starting boulder with the permanent snowfield to the right of the boulder.

At the base of the cliff, above the boulder is the start of the route (1 piton with fixed cord). If you start from the ground, P1 is approx. 55m. Otherwise, scramble to the top of the boulder (recommended so that your gear doesn't get wet in the afternoon snowmelt)

1. Climb the slab, wandering a little L and R to find gear and the bolts. Go up to the small ledge with the anchor (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 9 bolts.

2. Go up briefly on the slab, then move to the right. Soon afterwards, move to the left, following the crack all the way to a ledge where you find the belay. There is an abseil anchor 10m to right of the climbing anchor do not use this (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 4 bolts, 4 pitons.

3. Sharply diagonally to the left around the base of the small column, then up into the gully (initially crumbly), which goes up and slightly to the right. Some stemming an another bolt leads you to the belay, on top of a small pillar, vertically above the last anchor (1 bolt + 1 piton + cord + rings). 1 bolt.

4. Go up vertically from the belay, cross an overhang and continue to the next belay (2 bolts + rope + quick link). 3 bolts, 1 fixed sling.

5. Continue slightly diagonally to the right, aiming for a mini-cave with a yellowish overhang, under which find the anchor. (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 3 fixed slings.

6. Move 2m to the right, and go up the improbably easy overhang. Easier climbing leads to the next anchor (3 bolts + 1 hourglass + cord + quick link) 1 bolt, 1 piton, 2 fixed slings.

7. Go slightly to the right, around the final overhang, then continue vertically up to the anchor on top of the White Pillar (2 pitons + cord + abseil rings). 1 fixed sling.

Descent:

Abseil the route, using the anchors. (1h-1h30) Many of the 40m pitches are possible to abseil on a 70m rope with rope stretch, as the route zig-zags a lot. For pitch 1 & 2 which are very vertical, a 50m pull-cord or second rope is necessary.

For pitches 6 & 7 a single rope is recommended to avoid the rope getting stuck. Be very careful, there are lots of horns/features to trap your rope!

Boarding to the left of the sports sector. 1. length directly to the terrace. 2. left (as Senza Nome route!), then straight, along the wall to the right of the corner (Senza nome). Singing Rock silver bolts (occasionally homemade) 2-5 in length, good stands (2 bolts and maillons). Smaller friends, slings. Descent on the footpath to the right.

Primo tiro in comune con via Fiechtl ultimi due in comune con via dei Camini

Same starts as Lucky Luke but keep following the crack wich becomes a corner. Exit on the right part of the chimney. 1 set of cams from micro to nr 3 and 1 set of nuts.

Take path no. 542 from Rifugio Re Alberto (some short aided sections). Go to the base of the Towers and go up the gully/couloir that divides the Torre Piaz from Torre Delago. Climb until you reach a small platform at the saddle between the two towers. This is where you start the route (40 m, I/II, 1 piton + cemented ring).

1st pitch: Climb vertically until you reach a mini-cave and pass it on the left (piton), and continue along a vertical stretch of whitish rock (nail). Move to the right for a few meters, then return to the left until you reach the edge of the corner where you stop. (30 m, IV+, 3 pitons)

2nd pitch: The most beautiful point of the route. Belay stance, go around the corner to the left, looking out over the valley below in an impressive way. Climb the vertical arete (piton) on small and somewhat polished holds. After about ten meters, return to the right of the arete. Scramble up some easy blocks you reach a small ledge. Follow a not-so obvious crack above it until you reach a ledge with the belay stance. (30m, IV, 3 pitons)

3rd pitch: Climb the dihedral staying just to the right of the arete (2 close pitons). Then, a leaning ramp leads to a small ledge where the belay is located. (25 m, IV, 2 pitons, lots of fixed slings)

4th pitch: Go diagonally to the right, following bladey bits of rock. Go up a whitish slab, up through a chimney until you reach the easy ridge that leads to the summit. You can divide the pitch by stopping before the white slab. (50m, IV, 1 piton)

Descent: The main abseil descent is on the the north-east face, possible to merge abseils with double ropes.

1. 33m, vertically in the notch between the Delago and Stabeler towers up to a huge boulder wedged between the two towers;

2. 20m, descending into the canal, spectacular double with stretches in the void, ring on Torre Delago;

3. 20m, descending again along the narrow channel there is a ring on the Stabeler Tower;

4. 20m, still in the canal, approaching the base of the Stabeler tower, the ring is located on a comfortable terrace.

5. 30m, down to the ground.

From here, follow the trail back down to Rifugio Re Alberto.

Semifreddo climbs to the left of the classic Via Piaz.

Gear:

Full rack, 14 quickdraws, cams, pegs, slings

Bellissima via alpinistica che collega una serie di diedri fino alla sommità della Pala delle Lastiele. Roccia buona fino all'ottavo tiro, qualche blocco instabile. Gli ultimi due tiri, facili, sono su rocce rotte e instabili. Via protetta con chiodi, da integrare, soste su chiodi o su albero per la maggior parte. Due passaggi in A0 (6b) nel secondo e settimo tiro.

6 (obl), 2 passages 7. Nuts and friends helpful

Bolts and rock tunnels, some frineds and slings are recommended two sequences with VI option to add another pitch with two versions (right: nice groove, left: hard and very alpine bolted groove, but nice climb! Mind the rope drag, use super long slings) http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/linda.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

7b obl. Bolts, pitons and slings

Corner crack right of Tree little Birds. Selection of small cams and nuts needed. Possibility to build a natural anchor at the bottom ledge.

Erforderliche Ausrüstung: NAA und ein ganzer Satz Stopper und Friends Nr. 2,5-3.

At the base of the SE face, looking at the grey pillars/buttresses, scramble up the rocks (I-II) aiming for the three cracks/chimneys that cut the wall at the start of vertical rock. The route starts on a small terrace at the base of these cracks, following the right-most chimney in the corner. There is 1 cemented piton and 1 normal piton.

As with all classic Dolomites routes, there are lots of variations to the pitch lengths/directions:

1. Go up the short chimney, left at the top, then up a short distance to the anchor (1 glue-in piton with ring). (35m, IV/III, 2 pitons)

2. Go up through the chimney/crack above the belay, then up the next wall, either deviating left or going straight up the corner crack, until you reach a grassy ledge. Continue past the bolt & ring. Continue up some more grassy steps until the base of the chimney and the anchor (1 bolt). (20m, III+, IV-, III +)

3. Climb the chimney to the left of the anchor, continue all the way to the top (V-). Easier (IV-): follow the crack to the right, directly above the belay (not the chimney in the corner). At its end, go 1-2m more, up the little free-standing column and the chimney until you reach an obvious ledge between the two chimneys on the main wall. Traverse left along the ledge to the left chimney, to the left of the anchor below. Follow the easy chimney to the top with the anchor (1 glue-in bolt + ring). (15m, IV-, 2 pitons).

4. Easy scrambling leads you to the top of the pillar with one bolt. A thrilling 1-metre jump of faith takes you across the sucking void to the anchor (Glue-in bolt with ring). (20m, II, 1 bolt, 1 piton)

5. Go straight up from the belay for about 3 meters, then continue upwards over easy scrambling. One more small vertical sections leads you to the top of the climb, where you belay (1 glue-in piton) off a large boulder with some rubble, sligthly to the left. (30m, III +, II)

To reach the summit, walk up to the right around the boulder and scramble to the summit rocks.

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/SELLA_foto/PRIMA%20TORRE_camini_sito.jpg

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/TORRE%20EDWARDS_Gracchio_A.htm

Via alpinistica ricca di placche e diedri. Grado obbligatorio VI+

First pitch is steep, then it's mostly slabs to the top. Bring friends and nuts. Either walk off or use rappel points to the right of the route. Topo (in German) on bergsteigen.com

6 with 5 A0 passages. Some middle sized friends are highly recommended

Nice face and crack climbing in good rock.

The route is protected by about 45 pegs and a lot slings that were left behind by the route setters. Camelots and rocks may be useful.

Thanks to Simon Gietl and friends..

Topo