Aide

Sekkijin Boulder

  • Contexte de la cotation : US
  • Aka: 石器人岩

Description

Name means the stonemason's slab.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Kasama Boulder

  • Minimize the amount of chalk you use.
  • Clean all chalk off problems at the end of the day.
  • Use pads to protect the ground against erosion.

  • The Sen-nin Tamari car park (千人溜駐車場) is currently closed due to the fall of a number of trees in a recent typhoon. The car park will remain closed until the local municipality have finished monitoring the stability of the remaining trees and carried out any necessary safety works. In the meantime, the dirt car park just below the Daikoku Boulder is available for anyone to use.

  • Climbing on the Daikoku Boulder has been prohibited since December 2017. The local municipality instigated the ban as the close proximity to the road made climbing a danger for passing traffic, and because climbers were leaving the boulder looking a mess covered with chalk. Stay away from this boulder. Future violations by climbing the Daikoku Boulder, or continued excessive use of chalk in other sectors, may lead to a ban against all climbing at Kasama.

Approche

Located 10 metres to the right of the Simple Boulder.

Éthique hérité de Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

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Voies

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Cotation Voie

Layback up the left arête of the boulder.

Start sitting with both hands on the arête, then climb onto it and up it.

Climb up the slab slightly left of centre, passing two minuscule crimps. Finish at the top of the boulder, i.e. don't bail to the left arête.

A harder variation of Sekkijin Slab Chūō climbing direct up the centre.

Climb the right arête of the boulder. There is also a variation at Font 6A (4 kyū) that excludes the lip.

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Sam 3 Juin
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